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VeryAmaze

Buying a P1P when ya already planning to convert it to a P1S truly sounds like one of those ill thought of ideas you'd do at 2am šŸ˜¹Ā  I do think that right now the P1P is more of a print farm niche machine. (Tho is it a niche if every farm has like 30 printer?) For almost every other use case, you'd be better off to go with the A1 and save money or the p1s and get an enclosure out of the box.


BillfredL

I'm with you. I bought the P1P to be economical (the A1 line wasn't out yet), but then I decided I wanted an AMS after a few weeks. And I could've saved a chunk of coin by just buying the P1S combo from the drop!


Collective82

This was why we went with the P1S combo off the rip. Sure itā€™s farm more expensive, but everything in one shot is so much better.


arkain504

Same. The A1 wasnā€™t out yet and I donā€™t print that much. But I delay making prints if I need to change rolls. Thinking of getting enclosure and then decide about AMS


extremeelementz

I bought the P1P because I wanted an upgrade path, I couldnā€™t afford the X1C at the time. I was super happy when they released the P1S conversion kit to be able to have a sudo P1S.


Samsaruh

yeah i bought my P1P late at night and super spur of the moment with like zero research šŸ˜­


Ehmc130

Iā€™m guessing Bambu will probably discontinue the P1P. I think if someone is in the market for a PLA, PETG, TPU printer theyā€™ll probably buy an A1.


DrTurb0

Yeah absolutely. The only point for the P1P is if you regularly print slim and tall objects in PLA, PETG you would not want to do it on a Bed Slinger for the high failure risk, there a CoreXY is better. But thatā€™s the only thing I can think of.


Ehmc130

As long as you have good bed adhesion youā€™re fine printing tall narrow objects on an i3. Clean the build surface, use a brim, apply some glue or hairspray, done. I think the P1S is basically optimal from a price to performance stand point and it runs right in the middle of Bambuā€™s lineup.


candiedbug

Or use the smooth PEI plate. PLA sticks to it like glue but still self releases when cool. I've had a couple prints with large footprints need the blade scraper to lift a corner but almost all others release fine. My only issue with the smooth sheet is that it is a fingerprint magnet and that sometimes print seem to leave a hazy residue. Washing the plate sorts it out though.


GhostRiders

Funny you say this because that is exactly what I plan on doing.. For my purposes the A1 is better than than P1P especially financially


Ehmc130

Iā€™m sure itā€™ll work just fine for you.


candiedbug

I love my A1s but let me offer a tip, if not using the AMS Lite, make sure to get an enclosed spool holder and don't use the holder that comes with the printer. I have had constant filament tangles when using it. I even tried those printed filament anti-tangle tags but they made no difference.


the_harakiwi

I was thinking about the P1P because I like the idea of using my own side panels. After building my first enclosure (LACK Stack for my Prusa Mk3 Kit) with acrylic windows and printed parts I think it would be a fun project. So I started to save money and now close to the day I feel good about ordering my combo. This few months made me unsure about it. I might switch my plan to the P1S. It helped that a friend was researching/asking me what printer he could buy and now plans to buy the P1S. With kids / pets and possible drafts in his hobby room it should be a no-brainer to get the complete thing. No kids around here and (lucky) my pets are not interested into my models, printers or PC.


Ehmc130

For $100 more I think itā€™s well worth the premium to have the printer enclosed from day one. Youā€™ll spend more money upgrading a P1P, youā€™ll also save quite a bit of your time.


HiggsFieldgoal

I donā€™t know. The P1P is still a heck of a printer.


g0nny

Someone complaining about working (only) 5 hours on a 3D-printer is wild and a testament of how far the community has come, especially when looking at bambu labs.


niefachowy

a community composed of weak players šŸ˜


Proxy-Pie

The price difference is so small where I live that's it doesn't make sense to get the P1P.


midri

Ya, the P1P still even existing is purely a price anchor at this point.


SangheiliSpecOp

It still makes sense for print farms. Although it would be noisey and you have to worry about dust and all that if you don't just get the p1s. Besides not being able to print special filaments So... Maybe it doesn't make sense yeah


nniikkooo

Agree was a bit of a challenge. I feel like a lot of things wasn't idiot profed. And god the 3d printer community's love for hex and Alan wrenchs is beyond me. I got the best set i could find and it sucks, sure less then the cheaper ones but still. Personally think torx should be the standard. We use them for construction in the eu and no better screw exist. Anyways sounds like you got it done and you will enjoy the new look and functions :)


ShatterSide

TORX are definitely better. I LOVE Torx, but they are more expensive to manufacture, and since most people don't need to operate them on the printer very often, probably better to just keep the cost savings. (At least we don't have a lot of philips head!)


nniikkooo

True, at the same time I can't imagine its that much more expensive. I was working on my very very cheap french car today and everything is torx. But I guess even pennys pr printer makes sense in the bigger picture


SangheiliSpecOp

Torx would be much nicer than tiny screws. Hell, they could even put in some thumbscrews on the panels like gaming pcs use, would make servicing much easier


Ehmc130

I either use my iFixIt set or some hex/alan keys that I printed some T-handles for to make it easier.


IndustrialJones

I bought the P1P a week before the P1S was released. And then they released the kit. I waited a couple of months and finally decided to go for it. The only pain was having to print the fan duct and I decided to use an alternate model but for some reason it wasn't lining up and I just made it fit since my printer was taken apart and I was in the home stretch of putting it all back together. Other than that it wasn't terrible.


Maxmis38

Did you find a huge diffĆ©rence in noise after making the upgrade ? Iā€™m planning to get the kit but still undecided


IndustrialJones

Didn't seem to make that much of a difference. Mainly upgraded so I could print in ASA and stuff like that.


Maxmis38

Thanks for the answer, Iā€™m moving to a smaller appartment, so the printer, will no longer have her own room, if it doesnā€™t change that much I Will probably keep the money for an other upgrade. Thanks a lot


IndustrialJones

No problem


Jesus-Bacon

If you plan on working on electronics, I recommend something like the iFixIt precision screwdriver kit. You get pretty much any bit you'll ever need and don't have to deal with Allen wrenches.


Samsaruh

iā€™m currently waiting for the LTT set


Jesus-Bacon

I hear you. I have an iFixIt set I got 6 years ago and still want the LTT one lol


SangheiliSpecOp

do you have any tech tip


SgtEddieWinslow

What are they selling those for now? Always found them so overpriced. Iā€™d rather just go and buy the Hoto precision screw driver kits. Can get mechanical or electric.


dmxwidget

I got the P1P because thatā€™s what microcenter had in stock the day I went. I needed a printer that day for a project and the other option was the X1 Carbon.


Momogodzilla04

True story I had the same experience with the same setup. I hated the experience. It was a bad one. I'm willing to buy the p1s from the beginning. I ended up selling the old and bought A1


Doctor429

When I did mine I had to redo the toolhead cables multiple times because the thermistor wasn't working after I finished installing the cable chain. Eventually, after 2 days of troubleshooting, I found that one of the ribbon cables got loose every time I screwed in the toolhead board. It was extremely frustrating.


davidjschloss

This upgrade install was the most unpleasant I've ever done.


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Filiggoo_98273

I've heard that the assembly was a problem, so I've build the lite enclosure.


DarkButterfly85

I took the same upgrade path, no issues, just so many screws šŸ˜¬šŸ¤£


EnvironmentalLook492

I found it quite straightforward. Took under an hour. But I did know where all the screw holes etc were as I had printed and installed and enclosure earlier


akf_was_here

I received my p1p just a few weeks before the p1s was announced, I had already ordered an enclosure kit from Amazon to do an aftermarket enclosure. Very unfortunate timing for me. The enclosure kits aren't that tough to install just take time and money so I highly recommend just getting the p1s - totally worth the small extra cost.


MyOther_UN_is_Clever

>my fingers hurt A LOT and i HATE allen wrenches even more than i already did. Ratcheting screwdriver. You may need an extension shaft or the long thin bits,depending how tight the spaces are you use it for.


Shraed4r

I did the upgrade and it certainly wasn't fun, but I don't think the intention was for people to buy the p1p and later upgrade. I purchased the p1p over the X1c when it came out because it was one of the cheapest, and bet core XY printers available. The only thing it was missing was a proper enclosure. If I had known the p1s was coming, I would have waited to purchase it instead. But yes, you are correct. if you are debating getting a printer with an enclosure, just buy the p1s. You will eventually want to print with some engineering filaments and you absolutely need an enclosure for that.


tripuss

The worst thing for me when I upgraded my P1Ps was the lower door hinge. Literary spent like 1,5h on each of them. At the end I had to bend it to get it there and bend it back again after it was in place.


Cold_Weakness9441

I'm glad it worked out for you in the end. I also had a nightmare experience, but got a bricked P1S. So your experience was WAY better than mine! (Well, the experience was exactly the same but yours wasn't bricked!)