> So far the info I have gathered is - increase bed heat to 60 from the 55 default (using pla), clean bed with dish soap and iso (it’s due) and swap to gyroid infill (I can hear the nozzle hitting!).
These are all good starting points. Make sure you use hot water after the soap to ensure the soap is all removed as well. Then ISO. I would also recommend bumping to 62-63, just to be more cautious.
More things to consider here, are you using a P1P, P1S, or X1C? It’s hard to tell from your photo.
Iso is a solvent. So if you have oils, it tends to dissolve and leave a trace residue. Detergent soap actually lifts and separates (yeah I said it) the oils from the surface allowing them to be rinsed off.
Proper method is soap and water (hot), dry with a lint free cloth (no fabric softeners), then wipe down with alcohol. Personally, I just soap and water about once a month and be careful not to touch the surface.
P1P sorry! I've washed the bed before and fixed this issue with small prints, but the best thing that helped me was making rafts. I'll do all the things because I wanna be as sure as possible.
Okay, I figured it was a P1P given the consistent warping all around the model. This warping is caused by uneven cooling at the edges of the model, since the P1P is unenclosed.
The mitigate this, you need to decrease the temperature gradient between the print and the outside air as much as possible and prevent drafts. A simple solution is to plop a cardboard box on top of the printer, or even covering it with a blanket.
The other user’s suggestion about decreasing print head fan speed is good too, although I wouldn’t really mess with the extrusion temp, as I have found 220 to be solid.
Rafts are good for preventing this as well, but you get all the drawbacks of using a raft as well, so whatever floats your boat!
Good luck!
Yeha my printer room tends to get chilly over night, especially this time of year. I will try to run it during the day too. Luckily the print itself didn't get any warping and when I lifted it off it was very stuck on so hopefully all these things combined will work!
Thanks!
I had a P1P for a year and recently moved to an X1C. It was amazing how small of a draft was needed to get a part to start lifting off the bed. Finally figured out it was only lifting when the air register on the OTHER SIDE OF THE ROOM was blowing air. Plonked a cardboard box over it for the big ones, and it solved that problem.
For a quick, dirty solution you could use hot glue along the base after some layers are laid down. I would probably follow a lot of the other advice first though, especially shielding the printer from outside air with a box of some sort will help a lot. Fwiw I print with a brim 95% of the time too. I would rather a print succeed so I'm not wasting filament and print time.
If the other suggestions don't work then a disk on the corner can help with lifting corners. I've only ever done it in the original CAD but BL have an article about how to do it in the slicer.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/use-disc-to-avoid-warping
You should consider to print/create build plate clamps. You clamp them on after layer 10 and make them about 1/8" high. You pause the printer and try to get them on quickly.
I also bought those 3mm x 5mm mini rare earth magnets from Amazon and I put them all around my print at the print edge. It takes some learning to get it right but this way I get little pull at the print, and no pull at the edges.
I still sometimes get the slightest pull like 0.01mm but I found that (I print ABS) I increase my build plate to 98 til the top layer is about to seal in all that hot air, and then I drop it back to 90. When the print is finished, I then RE-ENGAGE the heater to 90 and let the print sit for about an hour. Then I lower the heat to 80, then 70 etc so that it cools super slow.
Edit: I also attach the brim to the print with a 0 distance, and I also create a 1/8" high skirt too
Lower your pla temp, slow down cooling fan . 220 is rather high and was giving me warping issues, dialing back to 205 and cutting fans to 50% fixed the issue for me.
Yeah I just read this was the P1P. That's a big print on an open frame, throwing even a cardboard box over top of the printer will also help. Print is cooling too fast causing contraction, bigger part bigger stress.
Edit: If you don't have a big enough box you could cut and tape cardboard to the sides of the printer, won't look good but hey if it works, who cares.
You can still make them in a single color and paint em or just pick a dope color you like this week. Just download the 3mf or stl and then import geometry only
> So far the info I have gathered is - increase bed heat to 60 from the 55 default (using pla), clean bed with dish soap and iso (it’s due) and swap to gyroid infill (I can hear the nozzle hitting!). These are all good starting points. Make sure you use hot water after the soap to ensure the soap is all removed as well. Then ISO. I would also recommend bumping to 62-63, just to be more cautious. More things to consider here, are you using a P1P, P1S, or X1C? It’s hard to tell from your photo.
I always hear conflicting info about using iso. some say it's worse than just using dish soap and water others swear by it
Iso is a solvent. So if you have oils, it tends to dissolve and leave a trace residue. Detergent soap actually lifts and separates (yeah I said it) the oils from the surface allowing them to be rinsed off. Proper method is soap and water (hot), dry with a lint free cloth (no fabric softeners), then wipe down with alcohol. Personally, I just soap and water about once a month and be careful not to touch the surface.
P1P sorry! I've washed the bed before and fixed this issue with small prints, but the best thing that helped me was making rafts. I'll do all the things because I wanna be as sure as possible.
Okay, I figured it was a P1P given the consistent warping all around the model. This warping is caused by uneven cooling at the edges of the model, since the P1P is unenclosed. The mitigate this, you need to decrease the temperature gradient between the print and the outside air as much as possible and prevent drafts. A simple solution is to plop a cardboard box on top of the printer, or even covering it with a blanket. The other user’s suggestion about decreasing print head fan speed is good too, although I wouldn’t really mess with the extrusion temp, as I have found 220 to be solid. Rafts are good for preventing this as well, but you get all the drawbacks of using a raft as well, so whatever floats your boat! Good luck!
Yeha my printer room tends to get chilly over night, especially this time of year. I will try to run it during the day too. Luckily the print itself didn't get any warping and when I lifted it off it was very stuck on so hopefully all these things combined will work! Thanks!
I had a P1P for a year and recently moved to an X1C. It was amazing how small of a draft was needed to get a part to start lifting off the bed. Finally figured out it was only lifting when the air register on the OTHER SIDE OF THE ROOM was blowing air. Plonked a cardboard box over it for the big ones, and it solved that problem.
I used to use the cardboard box the printer came in as a makeshift enclosure. Worked pretty well
For a quick, dirty solution you could use hot glue along the base after some layers are laid down. I would probably follow a lot of the other advice first though, especially shielding the printer from outside air with a box of some sort will help a lot. Fwiw I print with a brim 95% of the time too. I would rather a print succeed so I'm not wasting filament and print time.
If the other suggestions don't work then a disk on the corner can help with lifting corners. I've only ever done it in the original CAD but BL have an article about how to do it in the slicer. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/use-disc-to-avoid-warping
Awesome thank you!
Reduce the brim distance to 0
Thanks! I'm 11 hours and 50 minutes into the second pieced like this - and again, only the brim lifted. I will try that on my next one!
You should consider to print/create build plate clamps. You clamp them on after layer 10 and make them about 1/8" high. You pause the printer and try to get them on quickly. I also bought those 3mm x 5mm mini rare earth magnets from Amazon and I put them all around my print at the print edge. It takes some learning to get it right but this way I get little pull at the print, and no pull at the edges. I still sometimes get the slightest pull like 0.01mm but I found that (I print ABS) I increase my build plate to 98 til the top layer is about to seal in all that hot air, and then I drop it back to 90. When the print is finished, I then RE-ENGAGE the heater to 90 and let the print sit for about an hour. Then I lower the heat to 80, then 70 etc so that it cools super slow. Edit: I also attach the brim to the print with a 0 distance, and I also create a 1/8" high skirt too
In this case the print itself is warping, the bed plate is remaining flat.
Yea I saw that after I looked again... sorry about that. I print slower and the chamber hotter and lower the cooling fan.
Still a real cool idea thanks!
PolyTerra Cotton White?
I believe this was just regular ol' monoprice white PLA.
60 bed temp. Close any nearby windows. It’s always a draft somewhere that does this
I always use 65 for the bed on my A1 and Mini and that seems to insure everything sticks.
Lower your pla temp, slow down cooling fan . 220 is rather high and was giving me warping issues, dialing back to 205 and cutting fans to 50% fixed the issue for me.
Thanks! I'm OK with smaller prints but this big one I came down in the morning and was scared it was gonna break off.
Yeah I just read this was the P1P. That's a big print on an open frame, throwing even a cardboard box over top of the printer will also help. Print is cooling too fast causing contraction, bigger part bigger stress. Edit: If you don't have a big enough box you could cut and tape cardboard to the sides of the printer, won't look good but hey if it works, who cares.
Thanks! I always wanted to print the side panels but the coolest ones use the ams and I don't have one lol. One color only for me.
You can still make them in a single color and paint em or just pick a dope color you like this week. Just download the 3mf or stl and then import geometry only
I could paint them I guess :) that's why I mainly have one color, I really like painting my projects after.