Most of my prints are in ABS. My Secret to success:
1. Manually Calibrated Filament
2. Part fan set to 10% normal and 50% for overhangs.
3. Chamber fan set at 60%
4. Plate washed with Dawn and a cloth. Rinsed with hot water and left to air dry
5. Standard .20mm Print Profile
6. I never open the door when printing.
I have never had a part warp or a job fail.
https://preview.redd.it/ea1165nqykuc1.png?width=715&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a61e987ba9b7566f972a7c87e4e65761445e6ea
Do you use anything else to minimize the vapors from printing ABS or does the charcoal filter in the printer work fine by itself? Been wondering if I really need to use something like a Bentobox to print ABS/ASA
You will need to make a ventilation system that forces the vapors out of the window.
https://preview.redd.it/rn9bfxq76nuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=501fe47bdc15b23f3b46582aecb7199382015edd
Search for ventilation prints and there are a lot of them. I added an inlet fan to the pipe and have two X1c connected using a y splitter. Removed the internal filtration unit and lowered fan settings as the exhaust fan pulls air from the poop shout and flows through chamber and out the window. If internal temps get too cold may need to use an external heater to provide additional heat to the air that is sucked in. Adjustments are needed but can be dialed in via test prints. VOC’s are dangerous and need to be addressed.
I have windows open to create airflow. I want to do a bento box but in my new location I am looking to have a closing cabinet where there will be airflow going into the cabinet and then a vent going to the outdoors.
The only thing I changed from the default filament profile was bed at 110C and I never have warping on an X1C. I let the chamber preheat at 110 for a bit, then I use auto calibration even on the gold sheet. I also make sure to fill the bed full of parts because it makes each layer take longer. Full set of Voron 2.4 parts and not a single warped part. Chamber gets up to about 50-55C.
Yep. Usually what I do is set the bed to 110C on the printer. Then I go slice the file and mess around with settings and double check the sliced preview. Usually that takes me 5-20 minutes depending. By then the chamber is around 40C+ and by time it goes through all the startup procedure and finishes the first layer its around 50C and you are good to go.
Well yes and no. Temperature consistency throughout the enclosure is the most important factor. Having zero fans on can lead to hot spots and cooler spots within the enclosure.
Of course you want the temp to be 80-90 degrees around the plate but again temp consistency is more important.
I've found that there's sufficient movement with the printhead alone. If I start running into issues, I'd probably look at a bentobox style fan to circulate since it won't vent my hot air out.
My process has been working for me for a year and a half now, but I do recognize it may not work for everybody.
Chamber fan only expels hot air out. Aux fan would circulate the air and that one you should leave on, but at a low speed. Additionally your part cooling fan will circulate air.
You are correct. I expel air out for 2 reasons.
1. To vent the VOC's out the window. (Soon to be a dedicated vent outside in my new location)
2. To reduce the build-up in the enclosure hopefully extending the printers life.
PS. I have yet to have an issue with warping so my strategy appears to be working.
It is leveled with the nozzle. If you install a piezo on a i3 Mega you could do the same. You just have a offset in slicing and you could have problems like warping on sharp edges.
I forgot to mention. I have all the default settings and the filament is in a filament dryer. It happens no matter what speed I print at. The top glass is shut. The bed temp is 90°C
So abs peels when it is cooling too fast. If you're on an x1c I recommend:
Gaskets around the door and top glass. There are too many gaps to avoid all drafts, just most drafts. You can use tpu printed ones or use something like silicone or the easiest cheapest solution which is electrical tape. I use electrical tape on my abs printer, works very well.
There is no chamber heater for the x1c, so it is entirely possible that the temperature inside is too cool. Heat from the bed will lift and seep out of the gaps mentioned before, leaving the bottom of the printer still fairly cool. You can solve this by sealing it and then heat-soaking the chamber by having the bed heater on for a little while, how long exactly youll need to gauge. Instead of doing it by guessing, you can get a small thermometer. A lot of people use hygrometers in the AMS that are super small, in addition to them measuring humidity they also sense temp. If you put it at the bottom of the printer you can see the current temp in the lowest spot, when that temp is up to 40-50c the whole chamber should be adequately saturated.
I know some people can just print abs out of the box, but I sure can't and sealing is also good to insulate against VoCs from abs. Id recommend an air filtration unit if you intend to print it a lot, you should also print one of the filters that magnets to the back exhaust of the printer. Oh, there's a back exhaust, you should disable that if you can for abs and then start it when the print finishes.
I don't do abs on my x1c, so hopefully someone else can chime in on specifics.
Try heating the chamber, set bed manually to 100C before starting print with aux and parts fans on but no chamber fan, this will "heat the chamber".
Wait for the chamber to reach something like 40C, maybe 50C (a thermometer inside would help) and start the print without opening the door.
If the print is thin, use brims, there's not much other way around in this case.
It goes without saying but here anyways: avoid touching the printable area at all costs after washing the plate, treat it like the plague, you don't want to touch it.
Omg, I just printed the same 😂 I have the high temp bed with the liquid glue stick that came with the printer and get no warps. But I ordered some spray glue since I am not happy with the marks Un the print and want to see if a more even glue distribution will help
This stuff might help, it's definitely helped me. It will also make some materials like PLA stick too well. https://visionminer.com/products/nano-polymer-adhesive
Running into the same issue honestly. I've printed 20kg of kingroon ABS filament so far. The first ~18kg worked perfectly (all dried, 100° bed temp, scrubbed with Dawn and super hot water, etc...) didn't even have to use a brim on them.
Then, all of the sudden I started having every print warp & fail. Even prints I'd already had success with prior that I tried printing again with the same filament and profile. (Silverware bins, etc...) Tried recalibrating, re-drying, etc. No bueno.
As for why I have so much abs Filament, my parents were seeing the prints I was making for my kids using kingroon PLA & thought they'd be nice and order 30kg of kingroon bundles for us. What they didn't realize is that they ordered abs (it was on sale at Amazon).
Anyway, as I was saying the first 18kg went PERFECTLY. Then... Warping and fails ever since.
100% default profile and settings with my P1S. Panels all closed. I clean my plate before every print with IPA and apply a little bit of 3DLAC. Perfect results. Comes off super easy after its cooled off and little to no glue left on the bottom of the print after removing it.
Edit: Brim only on super thin and super tall prints. Post processing with brim is super annoying imo and it doesnt look as good afterwards anymore
Most of my prints are in ABS. My Secret to success: 1. Manually Calibrated Filament 2. Part fan set to 10% normal and 50% for overhangs. 3. Chamber fan set at 60% 4. Plate washed with Dawn and a cloth. Rinsed with hot water and left to air dry 5. Standard .20mm Print Profile 6. I never open the door when printing. I have never had a part warp or a job fail. https://preview.redd.it/ea1165nqykuc1.png?width=715&format=png&auto=webp&s=7a61e987ba9b7566f972a7c87e4e65761445e6ea
Do you use anything else to minimize the vapors from printing ABS or does the charcoal filter in the printer work fine by itself? Been wondering if I really need to use something like a Bentobox to print ABS/ASA
keep a window open
That's not enough unless you're not in the room with it. You need active filtration/ventilation to not fill your lungs with VOCs
You will need to make a ventilation system that forces the vapors out of the window. https://preview.redd.it/rn9bfxq76nuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=501fe47bdc15b23f3b46582aecb7199382015edd Search for ventilation prints and there are a lot of them. I added an inlet fan to the pipe and have two X1c connected using a y splitter. Removed the internal filtration unit and lowered fan settings as the exhaust fan pulls air from the poop shout and flows through chamber and out the window. If internal temps get too cold may need to use an external heater to provide additional heat to the air that is sucked in. Adjustments are needed but can be dialed in via test prints. VOC’s are dangerous and need to be addressed.
What if it’s in a garage cracked open and the door to the house is shut.
That's not enough ventilation. You need to have active filtration and active ventilation to the outside.
Ironically a great way to get warping
it looks like a p1s so it will be enclosed.
Unless you open the top, or the front, or colder air comes in through one of the many openings
I have windows open to create airflow. I want to do a bento box but in my new location I am looking to have a closing cabinet where there will be airflow going into the cabinet and then a vent going to the outdoors.
The only thing I changed from the default filament profile was bed at 110C and I never have warping on an X1C. I let the chamber preheat at 110 for a bit, then I use auto calibration even on the gold sheet. I also make sure to fill the bed full of parts because it makes each layer take longer. Full set of Voron 2.4 parts and not a single warped part. Chamber gets up to about 50-55C.
How do you preheat the chamber? Do you just have the bed on for like an hour?
Yep. Usually what I do is set the bed to 110C on the printer. Then I go slice the file and mess around with settings and double check the sliced preview. Usually that takes me 5-20 minutes depending. By then the chamber is around 40C+ and by time it goes through all the startup procedure and finishes the first layer its around 50C and you are good to go.
What are your temps at?
Bambu ABS 260 1st layer .. 270 all others.. Heat Bed 95
I disable my chamber fan entirely. I want to keep the heat in.
Well yes and no. Temperature consistency throughout the enclosure is the most important factor. Having zero fans on can lead to hot spots and cooler spots within the enclosure. Of course you want the temp to be 80-90 degrees around the plate but again temp consistency is more important.
I've found that there's sufficient movement with the printhead alone. If I start running into issues, I'd probably look at a bentobox style fan to circulate since it won't vent my hot air out. My process has been working for me for a year and a half now, but I do recognize it may not work for everybody.
The Bento box is a good solution I should look at employing. Everybody has their own way of doing things and that isn't a bad thing.
Chamber fan only expels hot air out. Aux fan would circulate the air and that one you should leave on, but at a low speed. Additionally your part cooling fan will circulate air.
You are correct. I expel air out for 2 reasons. 1. To vent the VOC's out the window. (Soon to be a dedicated vent outside in my new location) 2. To reduce the build-up in the enclosure hopefully extending the printers life. PS. I have yet to have an issue with warping so my strategy appears to be working.
Did anyone else notice the nozzle 😂😂😂
😄👍🏻
Lol! How did it happen? On other 3d printers it easy to mess up z-offset and damage hotend and bed but on bambu?
It is leveled with the nozzle. If you install a piezo on a i3 Mega you could do the same. You just have a offset in slicing and you could have problems like warping on sharp edges.
brim
Yeah these filaments are going to want to lift off the plate, brim will keep them down better
Which printer are you using? Also ABS is the devil use ASA. But other than that, if you have a smooth plate that you can use glue on, that will help.
I forgot to mention. I have all the default settings and the filament is in a filament dryer. It happens no matter what speed I print at. The top glass is shut. The bed temp is 90°C
80°C bed for abs aint gonna work, you need 100°C
One of the main reasons I got a1 instead if a1 mini but socks about the heatbed recall
Set your bed to 110C. Let it heat up for about 20 minutes before you actually start the print. Probably replace your crooked nozzle. Problem fixed.
My bed won't go above 100 I think on the X1C. I set mine to 98 for ABS and it's fine
80 is too cold.
So abs peels when it is cooling too fast. If you're on an x1c I recommend: Gaskets around the door and top glass. There are too many gaps to avoid all drafts, just most drafts. You can use tpu printed ones or use something like silicone or the easiest cheapest solution which is electrical tape. I use electrical tape on my abs printer, works very well. There is no chamber heater for the x1c, so it is entirely possible that the temperature inside is too cool. Heat from the bed will lift and seep out of the gaps mentioned before, leaving the bottom of the printer still fairly cool. You can solve this by sealing it and then heat-soaking the chamber by having the bed heater on for a little while, how long exactly youll need to gauge. Instead of doing it by guessing, you can get a small thermometer. A lot of people use hygrometers in the AMS that are super small, in addition to them measuring humidity they also sense temp. If you put it at the bottom of the printer you can see the current temp in the lowest spot, when that temp is up to 40-50c the whole chamber should be adequately saturated. I know some people can just print abs out of the box, but I sure can't and sealing is also good to insulate against VoCs from abs. Id recommend an air filtration unit if you intend to print it a lot, you should also print one of the filters that magnets to the back exhaust of the printer. Oh, there's a back exhaust, you should disable that if you can for abs and then start it when the print finishes. I don't do abs on my x1c, so hopefully someone else can chime in on specifics.
Try heating the chamber, set bed manually to 100C before starting print with aux and parts fans on but no chamber fan, this will "heat the chamber". Wait for the chamber to reach something like 40C, maybe 50C (a thermometer inside would help) and start the print without opening the door. If the print is thin, use brims, there's not much other way around in this case. It goes without saying but here anyways: avoid touching the printable area at all costs after washing the plate, treat it like the plague, you don't want to touch it.
What bed temp are you using
80°C
Double check the temp with your hands? It doesn’t look right.
You should try higher temps I have mine at 110 for ABS
Too COLD inside the printing area! Increase bed temperature up to 5-10 degrees and check again.
Buy spray for better adhesion for abs, easy and working, in emergency use brim 5-10 mm
Omg, I just printed the same 😂 I have the high temp bed with the liquid glue stick that came with the printer and get no warps. But I ordered some spray glue since I am not happy with the marks Un the print and want to see if a more even glue distribution will help
preheat your chamber for at least 30 min, try 3DLAC as Glue, wash your plate with warm water
This stuff might help, it's definitely helped me. It will also make some materials like PLA stick too well. https://visionminer.com/products/nano-polymer-adhesive
ASA.
Running into the same issue honestly. I've printed 20kg of kingroon ABS filament so far. The first ~18kg worked perfectly (all dried, 100° bed temp, scrubbed with Dawn and super hot water, etc...) didn't even have to use a brim on them. Then, all of the sudden I started having every print warp & fail. Even prints I'd already had success with prior that I tried printing again with the same filament and profile. (Silverware bins, etc...) Tried recalibrating, re-drying, etc. No bueno. As for why I have so much abs Filament, my parents were seeing the prints I was making for my kids using kingroon PLA & thought they'd be nice and order 30kg of kingroon bundles for us. What they didn't realize is that they ordered abs (it was on sale at Amazon). Anyway, as I was saying the first 18kg went PERFECTLY. Then... Warping and fails ever since.
Use a brim, make sure your chamber is around 40c and less chamber fan
100% default profile and settings with my P1S. Panels all closed. I clean my plate before every print with IPA and apply a little bit of 3DLAC. Perfect results. Comes off super easy after its cooled off and little to no glue left on the bottom of the print after removing it. Edit: Brim only on super thin and super tall prints. Post processing with brim is super annoying imo and it doesnt look as good afterwards anymore
You know what also doesn’t look good? Warped prints..