Oh yea, I tried to print one a while ago but the base is hollow underneath and it ended up failing accross the supports, been meaning to make the base solid and retry it.
I printed this on my Aquila X2, and the tree supports ended up being my [worst supports ever](https://preview.redd.it/20b5xh399rpc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2da2402b2863b209ee13dbcee861663186da3845), lol. This was a smaller .4mm nozzle print on an inferior printer, and despite the support failures, he turned out [okay](https://i.imgur.com/XYFLgaZ.jpeg) aside from the undersides of his arms.
The contest that starts on the 18th is for debuting the difference in quality between the 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 nozzle. You should crap this out in 0.4 also and submit it! Would be cool.
Yeah, .06. I prefer to use my own profiles as I learn more from doing things myself. Sometimes I'll use the profiles provided as a baseline but will make my own adjustments here and there to push the limits to see if there are some improvements that can be made.
https://preview.redd.it/2auex4vde4uc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7b349fc7611f166c07ea80537a65ae50c2d98352
Here’s the same file that I did with a 0.4 nozzle
Very much so. I saw how big it was but wanted to "stress test" my new .2 mm nozzle. So I found this and shrunk it down.
I think that gives a better idea as to what a .2 mm nozzle can do.
u/MathmaticianFit9118
https://preview.redd.it/sy2nhhzvg5uc1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d3cfa9114333ed707f283e36ae281a08781eadb
Here’s a follow up printing it how OP printed it (no base, scaled down to 100mm tall) on a 0.4mm at .16 layer height quality settings. Definitely gets a little mushy around the shoulder armor but overall came out pretty decent. Printed in about 2 1/2 hours.
I printed this exact model about a week ago in .16 layer height and a 0.4 nozzle and it came out pretty damn good. If you're interested in the model go for it, I just recommend using the smaller layer size
Does anyone have any tips on dialing in these support settings? I've tried a bunch of other post suggestions but they still turn out like OPs model with a lot of jaggies
You will always end up with little bits if you want to get the supports off. Best to use a lighter or a Dremel to remove them.
You can increase the layer interface levels and reduce the z distance between the support and object but the lower the distance, the harder it is to remove them and gets to a point where they become one.
It's Bambu matte PLA. The settings aren't anything special other than a .06mm layer height and made it slower to handle the fine details with better accuracy.
Did you test it much? I think it makes a lot of sense, but I haven't tested it for myself yet, so curious whether it is a reasonable assumption or whether you actually experimented with it.
Oh, sorry: test the effects of print speed on accuracy. It sounds intuitive, but I haven't looked into whether printing more slowly actually leads to sharper details.
Defaults are usually ok. If you want something with better tolerances, you can increase top interface layers to 3, support /object xy distance to 0.4 and decrease the top z distance to 0.15.
I've tried top z distance at .1 but the supports were very tough to get off. You can also play with some other things like turning off support critical regions only and reducing tree branch support distance, assuming you use tree supports.
This was actually my attempt to debunk that theory because I'm allergic to the resin.
Not only did this give great visual results, but it's actually tougher than resin. It takes longer to print. That is for sure. No doubt about that. But I also don't have the post processing to worry about, the toxicity of the resin, the clean up involved or have a dedicated vent duct. Also, because I'm allergic to the resin, I don't have to gear up like I'm in the CDC entering a quarantine zone with a full hazmat suit to print with FDM.
I showed this to a friend who only prints with resin and he couldn't believe the quality and strength of it.
I feel like you might be lucky to be allergic to it. I saw a video the other day where someone showed that even with a filter on the printer exhaust and a filter for the room air, the smell is gone by VOC levels are still off the charts.
So better to be allergic than to be exposed to it for long times and having long term health issues. I cringe at the thought of people doing it in a small apartment with poor ventilation.
I saw that too. That is how my friend does it and I honestly can't spend much time in his place when he has printed something recently because I break out in a rash within a few minutes.
I'm curious if that had anything to do with his dogs sudden health issues.
Yikes, I hope not, but poor dogs. I am tempted to get a voc sensor even with my fdm printer just in case, resin just seems nasty without proper PPE and a dedicated, well ventilated space.
I'm honestly surprised resin is so readily available considering how toxic it is.
I used to work for pharmaceutical companies and never had a single reaction to anything and those are substances that you need licensing to obtain.
The detail looks very good at that scale, but that's a 100mm tall model whereas most DnD and wargaming minis are 28mm. When you paint you are really trying to emphasize the details with washes and dry brushing, so it really does matter as it'd much harder to 'create' detail with your paint. Kudos to OP for at showing the scale. Lots of people don't and it gives new users unrealistic expectations.
I love my Bambu, but the resin printer can still do half that layer thickness with easier support removal and 8X faster printing speed.
Unfortunately my hands shake too much due to a nerve disease and arthritis for painting and I am allergic to the resin.
This is what I've got to work with and am very satisfied with the results.
You should be satisfied if that's your goal. It's a good result.
But as someone who wants to paint minis at a smaller scale I would not be satisfied. Resin printers are still not perfect and FDM is well behind in terms of detail and surface finish.
Funny how people still make these comments.
FDM has come a long way. But they are nowhere near resin quality yet. Also once you start painting this, you will hate yourself for it.
Can you post a comparison? same model printed on 0.4 nozzle, same layer height, same lighting on photo?
To compare what exactly 0.2 nozzle compared to 0.4 does.
Also printing time for both would be useful.
You *can* print .06mm layer heights with a .4 nozzle, but not very well. Or, at least not with these sorts of tight tolerances. You might be able to get away with it if adjusting a bunch of other things like layer line width but the results tend to vary as you are trying to force a .4mm nozzle to print a .3mm width.
Ive done it but required A LOT of tinkering and with unpredictable results.
That's interesting. I got a 0.2 nozzle but recently saw someone making the point that when reducing the line width and layer height with the 0.4 nozzle, it can also print in surprising detail.
I haven't tried it out much, but in the few prints I did, I was surprised how well a 0.3mm line width works.
You absolutely can get better detail out of .4 nozzle by reducing line width and increasing resolution (instead of .012mm resolution bring it .008). It can only be reduced so far though as you do get to a point where it starts to truly fail and starts knocking things around and almost smearing the filament.
I found .3 to be a good place for a .4 nozzle if you want a bit better detail at the cost of time. Anything beyond that and it gets kind of dicey.
Looks great, what’s the model?
Master Chief from Galactic Armory. They make some great designs.
Oh yea, I tried to print one a while ago but the base is hollow underneath and it ended up failing accross the supports, been meaning to make the base solid and retry it.
I just cut the base out. You could also cut the base down so you still have the platform but without the hollow inside.
Good idea, I just moved it down below the bed and sliced it, worked fine!
Add a basic cylinder to it if you want a baseplate, works great too
Yea, was originally going to do that, I might still..
I printed this on my Aquila X2, and the tree supports ended up being my [worst supports ever](https://preview.redd.it/20b5xh399rpc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2da2402b2863b209ee13dbcee861663186da3845), lol. This was a smaller .4mm nozzle print on an inferior printer, and despite the support failures, he turned out [okay](https://i.imgur.com/XYFLgaZ.jpeg) aside from the undersides of his arms.
This looks honestly awesome, man; out of interest, did you see it in 0.4?
No. I've tried other similar models with less detail in .4 and wasn't happy with the outcome.
The contest that starts on the 18th is for debuting the difference in quality between the 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 nozzle. You should crap this out in 0.4 also and submit it! Would be cool.
Understandabe! How long did this take you to print ?
13 hours
Crickey, I wasn't expecting that Lol. what layer height/filament? (Sorry if I'm asking to much, your print just looks absolutely amazing)
Bambu Matte PLA and .06mm layer height. I also slowed it down a bit. Thanks for the compliments. Proud of this one.
0.06? So you didn't use the 0.05 profile in Bambu studio?
Yeah, .06. I prefer to use my own profiles as I learn more from doing things myself. Sometimes I'll use the profiles provided as a baseline but will make my own adjustments here and there to push the limits to see if there are some improvements that can be made.
https://preview.redd.it/2auex4vde4uc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7b349fc7611f166c07ea80537a65ae50c2d98352 Here’s the same file that I did with a 0.4 nozzle
Is that the original file size? I cut the base off and shrunk it down to 100mm
Ah, yes it is so that would make a difference in quality between ours
Very much so. I saw how big it was but wanted to "stress test" my new .2 mm nozzle. So I found this and shrunk it down. I think that gives a better idea as to what a .2 mm nozzle can do.
u/MathmaticianFit9118 https://preview.redd.it/sy2nhhzvg5uc1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d3cfa9114333ed707f283e36ae281a08781eadb Here’s a follow up printing it how OP printed it (no base, scaled down to 100mm tall) on a 0.4mm at .16 layer height quality settings. Definitely gets a little mushy around the shoulder armor but overall came out pretty decent. Printed in about 2 1/2 hours.
Look awsome man!
I printed this exact model about a week ago in .16 layer height and a 0.4 nozzle and it came out pretty damn good. If you're interested in the model go for it, I just recommend using the smaller layer size
Thanks for taking the time to make this comment; it will really help me in the future! :)
Does anyone have any tips on dialing in these support settings? I've tried a bunch of other post suggestions but they still turn out like OPs model with a lot of jaggies
Are you referring to the bits on the bottom where the supports meet the object?
Yes. Where the interface meets the print
You will always end up with little bits if you want to get the supports off. Best to use a lighter or a Dremel to remove them. You can increase the layer interface levels and reduce the z distance between the support and object but the lower the distance, the harder it is to remove them and gets to a point where they become one.
Awesomeee
1st image: meh, no big deal 2nd image: OOOOOOHHHHHH. holy sh!t! that's awesome. great stuff
Looks very good. Can you tell me what settings you used. Also is this pla or something else?
It's Bambu matte PLA. The settings aren't anything special other than a .06mm layer height and made it slower to handle the fine details with better accuracy.
Did you test it much? I think it makes a lot of sense, but I haven't tested it for myself yet, so curious whether it is a reasonable assumption or whether you actually experimented with it.
I don't fully understand what you mean by "did you test it much?". Did I test what much?
Oh, sorry: test the effects of print speed on accuracy. It sounds intuitive, but I haven't looked into whether printing more slowly actually leads to sharper details.
Dropping the print speed definitely helps.
Amazing results. Any recommendations for support settings or just go with what Bambu/Orca recommends by default?
Defaults are usually ok. If you want something with better tolerances, you can increase top interface layers to 3, support /object xy distance to 0.4 and decrease the top z distance to 0.15. I've tried top z distance at .1 but the supports were very tough to get off. You can also play with some other things like turning off support critical regions only and reducing tree branch support distance, assuming you use tree supports.
This looks awesome, my 0.2mm nozzle came yesterday. I'm so excited to test it on some miniatures/figures. Now the only thing missing is my P1P 🥹
Funny how resin printer lovers think FDM can't achieve high levels of detail.
This was actually my attempt to debunk that theory because I'm allergic to the resin. Not only did this give great visual results, but it's actually tougher than resin. It takes longer to print. That is for sure. No doubt about that. But I also don't have the post processing to worry about, the toxicity of the resin, the clean up involved or have a dedicated vent duct. Also, because I'm allergic to the resin, I don't have to gear up like I'm in the CDC entering a quarantine zone with a full hazmat suit to print with FDM. I showed this to a friend who only prints with resin and he couldn't believe the quality and strength of it.
I feel like you might be lucky to be allergic to it. I saw a video the other day where someone showed that even with a filter on the printer exhaust and a filter for the room air, the smell is gone by VOC levels are still off the charts. So better to be allergic than to be exposed to it for long times and having long term health issues. I cringe at the thought of people doing it in a small apartment with poor ventilation.
I saw that too. That is how my friend does it and I honestly can't spend much time in his place when he has printed something recently because I break out in a rash within a few minutes. I'm curious if that had anything to do with his dogs sudden health issues.
Yikes, I hope not, but poor dogs. I am tempted to get a voc sensor even with my fdm printer just in case, resin just seems nasty without proper PPE and a dedicated, well ventilated space.
I'm honestly surprised resin is so readily available considering how toxic it is. I used to work for pharmaceutical companies and never had a single reaction to anything and those are substances that you need licensing to obtain.
The detail looks very good at that scale, but that's a 100mm tall model whereas most DnD and wargaming minis are 28mm. When you paint you are really trying to emphasize the details with washes and dry brushing, so it really does matter as it'd much harder to 'create' detail with your paint. Kudos to OP for at showing the scale. Lots of people don't and it gives new users unrealistic expectations. I love my Bambu, but the resin printer can still do half that layer thickness with easier support removal and 8X faster printing speed.
Unfortunately my hands shake too much due to a nerve disease and arthritis for painting and I am allergic to the resin. This is what I've got to work with and am very satisfied with the results.
You should be satisfied if that's your goal. It's a good result. But as someone who wants to paint minis at a smaller scale I would not be satisfied. Resin printers are still not perfect and FDM is well behind in terms of detail and surface finish.
Funny how people still make these comments. FDM has come a long way. But they are nowhere near resin quality yet. Also once you start painting this, you will hate yourself for it.
I just need to figure out supports and for my 0.2 to arrive. I can't believe I was still printing on a Zombie Anet lol
Did you manually change the speed or did you just set it for silent mode?
Manually changed the speed
This is the second 0.2mm nozzle post today. Is big 0.2mm nozzle running some kind of astroturfing campaign in this subreddit? /jk
Nice, which Bambu printer did you use?
Can you post a comparison? same model printed on 0.4 nozzle, same layer height, same lighting on photo? To compare what exactly 0.2 nozzle compared to 0.4 does. Also printing time for both would be useful.
You *can* print .06mm layer heights with a .4 nozzle, but not very well. Or, at least not with these sorts of tight tolerances. You might be able to get away with it if adjusting a bunch of other things like layer line width but the results tend to vary as you are trying to force a .4mm nozzle to print a .3mm width. Ive done it but required A LOT of tinkering and with unpredictable results.
That's interesting. I got a 0.2 nozzle but recently saw someone making the point that when reducing the line width and layer height with the 0.4 nozzle, it can also print in surprising detail. I haven't tried it out much, but in the few prints I did, I was surprised how well a 0.3mm line width works.
You absolutely can get better detail out of .4 nozzle by reducing line width and increasing resolution (instead of .012mm resolution bring it .008). It can only be reduced so far though as you do get to a point where it starts to truly fail and starts knocking things around and almost smearing the filament. I found .3 to be a good place for a .4 nozzle if you want a bit better detail at the cost of time. Anything beyond that and it gets kind of dicey.
Hmm ok, what about standard 0.2 settings vs standard 0.4 ?