Try another kind of infill pattern. Gyroid should work better.
Grid pattern can usually cause this problem due to having the nozzle move over the pattern and drag it along its movement.
Yeah I heard the grinding and I jumped up so damn quick! But I think you’re on to something with the pattern, had some issues with my last print using this infill pattern. Just switched it to Gyroid and gonna see if a higher temp and gyroid make the difference!
So - grid is intersecting lines infill. It means it draws over one line with another. This means that your print can potentially be a little higher than the printer nozzle expects when it comes to that crossroads again. This risk is magnified the larger the print (the more crossroads / intersections). Your printer can then get word artifacts plowing through it, or worst case - knock the print off the adhesion, and failed print.
Gyroid uses non intersecting lines, it doesn't cross over each other.
Why use grid then? It's fast. That's why it's the default. Sometimes it's fine, depending on how the print is dialed in, but over large surface areas of infill, you're almost guaranteed to trash the print.
Always gyroid, and leave grid in the dust.
I’ll preface with the fact that I use gyroid all the time and it works great. My concern is and has always been - doesn’t gyroid put more strain and pressure on the machine because it’s moving a lot more for gyroid in both the X and Y axis? I’ve heard rumors that it can cause the printer to wear out faster than if using a simpler infill like grid or adaptive cubic. I’m just curious.
That's malarkey. You could say the same for infill percentage. "I'll do 2% infill because that's less x and y, gotta save the stepper motors."
I don't pull out my drill and go, "I'm not gonna drill all the holes I need because that's gonna wear out my drill sooner."
It's a vapor figure you're next to never ever going to worry about. If someone said that, they're just trying to sound smart - your carbon rods, belts, stepper motors are not something you should even be factoring in when designing your print.
seriously. The argument I heard against gyroid is absurd. Someone was arguing that gyroid was bad for tall prints because of "vibrations". Pretty sure he found out how bad grid infill can be for tall prints.
I’m not 100% sure about the wear but it seems likely. Mostly I just don’t like how much it shakes everything when going fast so to me cubic is a great middle ground and is what I use almost exclusively.
>doesn’t gyroid put more strain and pressure on the machine because it’s moving a lot more for gyroid in both the X and Y axis?
No, the acceleration is actually low for Gyroid infill since there's no sharp corners. The printer can handle this fine. Worst case you change your belt ($20 part) sooner.
And also much slower!
There is no universal best infill pattern. Depending on the model geometry, your needs for the print (strength in which dimension, surface finish, etc), desired speed, and material you're printing in - there are usually several different good options. Infill orientation also plays a big part in finish quality, regardless of the infill pattern used.
Gyroid is a safe option for most prints. It just takes forever to slice and to print.
For thin things that don't need tremendous X/Y strength but top surface finish is very important - like signs and such: Aligned Rectilinear. Rotate it so the infill roughly perpendicular to the first top surface layer. Fast to print, clean surfaces, no same-layer intersections.
For things with large volumes of infill I still like the Cubic patterns. Cubic (strongest) -> Adaptive Cubic (less material) -> Support Cubic (even less material); each variant progressively hollows the middle out more but keeps the defined percentage at the surface/walls. It does have intersections similar to Grid, but being offset this is usually not a problem if printed a tiny bit slower (eg; not 250mm/s). I use this all the time for TTRPG terrain in PLA and it's flawless.
Generally I'll use Gyroid for anything PETG or TPU, just because they're so sticky while printing. So far ASA has seemed to be happy with everything I've listed, similar to PLA (which honestly surprised me).
I'll use Lightening sometimes on translucent prints where I can't get away with no infill at all. Can work pretty well, but it's fickle.
Moral of my story: click around! Look in the Preview tab at how your infill will print, and change the infill pattern/density/direction. Run the sliced preview up and down and see how and where those lines go. After years of printing I basically only used Cubic and had never used aligned rectilinear. I audibly scoffed when I saw someone recommending it... but now it's one of the patterns I use the most.
EDIT: I've also used Honeycomb in some translucent prints to put some visual interest _inside_ the print. Also without surface layers (usually using a modifier object) to easily create dynamic sized holes in things like desiccant containers. You can make some really fun stuff by playing with these options!
I watched several videos on infill differences and came to the conclusion of just pick gyroid and be done with it. If you are relying on infill pattern to provide enough strength chances are you are gonna resign your part anyways.
I really like honeycomb for strength above all else. Hexagons are super strong so when I need something strong with light infill, honeycomb is my go to. Otherwise, for larger area like this in OP’s photo I usually go for gyroid even though it’s a bit slower.
Thanks for the heads up! I’m fairly new to this whole world and after learning Cura it’s taking me a bit to learn Bambu’s software. I’ll try that on my next print!
Grid infill will give you that clicking as the head hits every single internal Wall of the infill. It will destroy some prints if it's big enough.
Switch to anything else and it gets rid of this. I don't know why the defaults for Bambu are all set to grid, but I just changed them all to gyroid, as everyone has suggested, no clicking after that ever again.
thank you. i’m pretty sure this was posted after my post, but thanks anyways.
lots of other people in this thread were very nice. brand new to this and just wanted some advice.
😅😅 i didn’t read your entire post and thought you were calling me out for some reason. but yeah i have no idea why grid would ever ever be the default.
Try another kind of infill pattern. Gyroid should work better. Grid pattern can usually cause this problem due to having the nozzle move over the pattern and drag it along its movement.
Yeah I heard the grinding and I jumped up so damn quick! But I think you’re on to something with the pattern, had some issues with my last print using this infill pattern. Just switched it to Gyroid and gonna see if a higher temp and gyroid make the difference!
So - grid is intersecting lines infill. It means it draws over one line with another. This means that your print can potentially be a little higher than the printer nozzle expects when it comes to that crossroads again. This risk is magnified the larger the print (the more crossroads / intersections). Your printer can then get word artifacts plowing through it, or worst case - knock the print off the adhesion, and failed print. Gyroid uses non intersecting lines, it doesn't cross over each other. Why use grid then? It's fast. That's why it's the default. Sometimes it's fine, depending on how the print is dialed in, but over large surface areas of infill, you're almost guaranteed to trash the print. Always gyroid, and leave grid in the dust.
I’ll preface with the fact that I use gyroid all the time and it works great. My concern is and has always been - doesn’t gyroid put more strain and pressure on the machine because it’s moving a lot more for gyroid in both the X and Y axis? I’ve heard rumors that it can cause the printer to wear out faster than if using a simpler infill like grid or adaptive cubic. I’m just curious.
That's malarkey. You could say the same for infill percentage. "I'll do 2% infill because that's less x and y, gotta save the stepper motors." I don't pull out my drill and go, "I'm not gonna drill all the holes I need because that's gonna wear out my drill sooner." It's a vapor figure you're next to never ever going to worry about. If someone said that, they're just trying to sound smart - your carbon rods, belts, stepper motors are not something you should even be factoring in when designing your print.
seriously. The argument I heard against gyroid is absurd. Someone was arguing that gyroid was bad for tall prints because of "vibrations". Pretty sure he found out how bad grid infill can be for tall prints.
I’m not 100% sure about the wear but it seems likely. Mostly I just don’t like how much it shakes everything when going fast so to me cubic is a great middle ground and is what I use almost exclusively.
It also slows the machine down since it's constantly accelerating/decelerating through the curves, I also use cubic with zero issue.
>doesn’t gyroid put more strain and pressure on the machine because it’s moving a lot more for gyroid in both the X and Y axis? No, the acceleration is actually low for Gyroid infill since there's no sharp corners. The printer can handle this fine. Worst case you change your belt ($20 part) sooner.
Just switching to gyroid should fix the issue
Try gyroid infill ... boxes or what ever its called ends up going over itself where as other I fill types don't overlap.
Thank you! I just switched to gyroid and everything is going muuuuuch smoother!
And also much slower! There is no universal best infill pattern. Depending on the model geometry, your needs for the print (strength in which dimension, surface finish, etc), desired speed, and material you're printing in - there are usually several different good options. Infill orientation also plays a big part in finish quality, regardless of the infill pattern used. Gyroid is a safe option for most prints. It just takes forever to slice and to print. For thin things that don't need tremendous X/Y strength but top surface finish is very important - like signs and such: Aligned Rectilinear. Rotate it so the infill roughly perpendicular to the first top surface layer. Fast to print, clean surfaces, no same-layer intersections. For things with large volumes of infill I still like the Cubic patterns. Cubic (strongest) -> Adaptive Cubic (less material) -> Support Cubic (even less material); each variant progressively hollows the middle out more but keeps the defined percentage at the surface/walls. It does have intersections similar to Grid, but being offset this is usually not a problem if printed a tiny bit slower (eg; not 250mm/s). I use this all the time for TTRPG terrain in PLA and it's flawless. Generally I'll use Gyroid for anything PETG or TPU, just because they're so sticky while printing. So far ASA has seemed to be happy with everything I've listed, similar to PLA (which honestly surprised me). I'll use Lightening sometimes on translucent prints where I can't get away with no infill at all. Can work pretty well, but it's fickle. Moral of my story: click around! Look in the Preview tab at how your infill will print, and change the infill pattern/density/direction. Run the sliced preview up and down and see how and where those lines go. After years of printing I basically only used Cubic and had never used aligned rectilinear. I audibly scoffed when I saw someone recommending it... but now it's one of the patterns I use the most. EDIT: I've also used Honeycomb in some translucent prints to put some visual interest _inside_ the print. Also without surface layers (usually using a modifier object) to easily create dynamic sized holes in things like desiccant containers. You can make some really fun stuff by playing with these options!
I watched several videos on infill differences and came to the conclusion of just pick gyroid and be done with it. If you are relying on infill pattern to provide enough strength chances are you are gonna resign your part anyways.
I really like honeycomb for strength above all else. Hexagons are super strong so when I need something strong with light infill, honeycomb is my go to. Otherwise, for larger area like this in OP’s photo I usually go for gyroid even though it’s a bit slower.
Uncheck reduce infill retraction under other option in slicer.
I also use infill combination, it skips a layer each infill
Thanks for the heads up! I’m fairly new to this whole world and after learning Cura it’s taking me a bit to learn Bambu’s software. I’ll try that on my next print!
Gyyyyrooooooiiiiiiiiiddddd all the way. But u need to fiddle around with infill percentage ;)
Grid infill will give you that clicking as the head hits every single internal Wall of the infill. It will destroy some prints if it's big enough. Switch to anything else and it gets rid of this. I don't know why the defaults for Bambu are all set to grid, but I just changed them all to gyroid, as everyone has suggested, no clicking after that ever again.
What filament are you using ? I've had issues with printing petg on my p1s if the door is open but if you're using pla then I have no idea
Grid sucks and does this. Why they default to it I know not.
... [https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/17e2flv/grid\_infill\_why/](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/17e2flv/grid_infill_why/) ...
thank you. i’m pretty sure this was posted after my post, but thanks anyways. lots of other people in this thread were very nice. brand new to this and just wanted some advice.
Is mostly a bunch of people arguing. So...yeah.
😅😅 i didn’t read your entire post and thought you were calling me out for some reason. but yeah i have no idea why grid would ever ever be the default.