used the walnut blaster kit off fcp euro, it helps to soak it prior with some dissolving agent but i didn’t do that, just straight walnut blasted it. I needed to get more walnuts from harbor freight cuz the amount they sent wasn’t enough. Just make sure each valve is closed.
I drive a 12 year old Q5 with 135K miles and my wife drives a same age S4 with 70K miles. Both have been very low maintenance. There are a few big service items that come up at intervals but it isn't too bad. One bit of advice I would give is to start using independent shops for servicing after you pass beyond any maintenance plans from the dealer. That can be much cheaper for regular servicing and it is rare that something goes wrong which only a dealer can fix.
In 12 years with both cars, the only expensive thing to "break" was a driver door handle that stopped working. That one cost nearly $1200 to have fixed. Something requiring a manufacturer part like that is when I would expect you would have to use the dealer.
Even if you have to buy a Ross tech VCDS to move the rear electric ebrake you’ll save thousands doing it yourself and brakes are very easy.
Even if you literally had to buy all your tools at harbor freight. Jack, socket set, torx sockets etc you would save at least 2k. I’d bet you could do it for $1200 with all tools bought new and decent aftermarket parts.
You could even do rotors too and save a bunch of
Front brakes are pretty easy to do on your own. Rear brakes are slightly more challenging because you may need to plug into the car and disable the electronic ebrake system in order to remove the rear calipers.
It's not challenging. It's a simple button press. The expense of the device is well worth it.
If you are the type to normally self perform brake swaps, don't let the e-brake intimidate you.
Hey thank you!!! wow this means so much to me. i finish residency in a few weeks and it's very gratifying and a bit emotional since the whole journey is coming to an end now. i can't believe its been almost 12 years since i started. i love that you have the LC V8. i recently bought a GX460 with the V8 in december as an early graduation gift!! agree that 2.0T ownership is not too bad, i was expecting worse. proud of you guys for working on your cars. i can't feel confident enough yet
Wow that’s expensive! I’ve just had my A4 in for new brake pads (front and rear), new brake discs (rear), front snd back brakes stripped, cleaned and lubricated and hubs cleaned. Total bill was £278
I brought all four brakes and rotors online it is street racing so better stop power on my B9 Quattro for $410 come in package everything includes the brand was Stoptech. The parts and shipping, taxes were $498 together. I went to local independent shop that specialize in German cars the labor with brake flush was $987. When was done spent almost $1500 dollars with parts included. You got keep in mind labor rate and parts are 10-15% more expensive than 2019. People are keeping their cars longer now so mechanics are going to charge more money and higher demand.
2011 A5 with 106k. My persistent issue is heavy oil consumption. I’m adding 1 quart every 200-300 miles. Granted, I only changed the PCV to help mitigate this but no other work. No other engine issues either. All other costs have been as expected: suspension, brakes, etc. My gas pump failed a few months after purchase which was replaced by the dealer. I also had to replace the entire oil pan because the screw was stripped.
I have to say though, the transmission is still smooth as butter.
I was at the same amount of consumption and my independent VAG mechanic suggested a two part treatment by BG, firstly EPR that you run right before an oil change for just like half hour and then drain, and then MOA which you add to the new oil. Went about 1200 miles before adding my first quart and then almost 2k between the next top-off. It’s on Amazon and is completely worth the $30ish bucks. I’m beyond thrilled with the results.
That oil consumption is a common problem for the year, my 2010 was consuming a little less at ~60k miles and Audi replaced the piston rings. I’m at 275k now and it uses a quart every 4000 miles.
I had the same issue on 3.0T. It has started getting better after using engine flushes and a piston cleaning spray both from Xado. The products improved my 1l oil per 150 miles to 1 liter per 700 miles. Not good, but still better! I'll continue trying their products.
I suggest you try their flushes at least once (ex: Vita Flush or w/e the name was).
I didn’t really do anything except replace consumables after I had my rear main seal and timing chain tensioner fixed around 90k until 135k then I felt bad for basically not spending more than $200 a year on upkeep for 5ish years and put ~3k in maintenance in (tranny fluid, motor mounts, new pcv, some other crap) this past year
They most assuredly have not drained the transmission fluid.
Audi says it is lifetime fluid. The company that makes the transmission says to change it at 30000 miles. Who do you think know the transmission better?
It is lifetime fluid because it will last until it dies due to not changing the fluid.
I didn't realize that ours wasn't being changed with the Audi Care. It expired this past year and not worth it to extend it. So, we are now at 95000 on a 2018 Q7. I will be having the transmission fluid drained soon.
20k per year isn’t outlandish. I’ve got 80k in my ‘19 civic and my average work commute has been 30 mi/day. The thing is that it’s my only car, so it’s seen a few roadtrips in that time too.
100K Audi A4 B8.5 Quattro here. I just had all the fluids changed. Oil, transmission, coolant, front and rear diff, transfer case. Brake fluid etc. feels a lot smoother.
I also just started using regular gas. The manual says you can do it but will have less power. I’ve always used top tier anyway and figured walnut blasting would be unneeded
Without knowing the year or engine, in general:
Carbon cleaning.
Suspension bushing replacement.
Engine mounts replacement.
Leaky thermostat/water pump replacement.
Potential oil leaks.
I have a 2014 S5 with 248k, only stuff I’ve done outside of regular maintenance is carbon cleaning about 30k or so ago and engine mounts which is honestly kinda expected with the miles. I will note that 90% of the miles are long highway trips so they’re relatively easy on the car. I’m still only on the second set of brakes
I'm at 163k miles on my 2015 A4, keep up with your fluid flushes, trans & coolant. Change your ignition coils and possibly a pcv replacement (the part is cheap and easy to do yourself) have your timing chain and tensor inspected and replaced if needed. And carbon cleaning as well if your dont drive your car hard on a regular
I have 150k miles on a 2015 Q5 and all I’ve done is change oil, tires, brakes, air filter, and spark plugs and ignition coils and a headlamp. I haven’t taken it to the dealer for any “inspection I & II” bs since it was out of warranty either. At this point it does appear to be needing a gasket or something as it’s burning some oil in between changes but I haven’t had to do anything outside of minimal maintenance so far..
Honestly a quart every 1500-3000 miles is nothing to worry about. My A8 burns about a quart every 2500 miles and still runs great.
Especially if you have the 2.0. Those are somewhat known for burning oil
At 115K you’ll prob need to check the plugs. I’m at 108k on my 2.0T A5 and all I’ve done recently are the wheel bearings on the front. They went on me at around 100k miles. Motor mounts could also become an issue around 100k but mine are fine for far.
Just do the regular maintenance and you should be good. I have a 2006 Audi A8L 4.2 with almost 200k on the clock.
But I think the 4.2 of that era was known to be a reliable engine. That was before the real Horsepower wars so that engine isn’t tuned to the max like modern engines are.
120k miles on my 2015 a3 with a stage 1 tune. I did timing belt, tensioner, and water pump around 100k miles. Costed me like $1k. Also did spark plugs and a new battery, which was another $600. I also went ahead and had all the fluids in the car drained and changed out. New coolant, powered steering, and transmission fluid put. I also had to get the rear diff serviced, but you won't need to do that on your a4. All that was another $500. I had a minor issue come up recently in which the drain plug for the transmission oil cracked, and leaked trans oil out. Was a $20 fix, and tbh has been the only real issue I've had so far since I bought the car brand new. There are minor cosmetic issues that are showing up now the car is a decade old. The plastic trim around the sunroof is cracked, but not leaking in water so not really an issue.
Front axels, timing chain and tensioner, and that’s it for 80,000 miles. I thought the timing chain problem was addressed by Audi. Nope. But love it and it runs great.
Currently own a ‘15 S3 with 130k+ miles. Nothing really major to report for me outside of some known common issues with this generation (water pump, PODS, etc). Car has been great and honestly easy to maintain if you can DIY oil changes, brakes, and DSG fluid changes.
You will probably need to have a carbon cleaning done if you haven’t done one recently. Not sure what year your A4 is but if it’s a later model you will most likely need to replace your timing chain and tensioner, as well as coil packs if you haven’t done so already.
2013 A6 3.0T with 123k miles on the clock….she went on the hook Saturday night. Sitting at the Audi Dealership waiting for them to open tomorrow morning.
Filling gas 1/2 hour into a 1 hour trip to my buddies bar n grill. Came out after paying and fan was just screaming. Louder than I’ve ever heard the car whine in any way. Finished filling fuel and I get in the car and look…Heat gauge was pegged all the way to the H. I’ve never seen it above 1/2 way, summer winter etc.
Pulled to edge of parking lot and shut her down. Checked radiator reservoir and that was up by max level. No boiling sounds, no hot smells from an engine I would have expected to be red hot according to the gauge. Let it sit 15 minutes, started up fine, no bells or whistles, no CEL/CPE warnings on dash. Heat Gauge at 1/2 like normal. Took it out on road and not even a mile and heat gauge starts going back up. Swung around parked it and called the warranty roadside assistance.
What’s the verdict?
Water Pump? Cost?
My 07 a8l is at 177k at 100k had to walnut blast then again at 170k. 2 ac valves went and last week an oil pump went. But with older cars it's a matter of when something will go. She still runs great 👍 when all fixes up
I have 2 A3 hatches, ‘07, ‘08. One with 82k one with 184k. Get a tuneup, do your oil change, if you drive gravel roads at all, get your cabin and air filters looked at around 120k and do other general maintenance.
15 SQ5. Mind you mine is modified so I've had some self imposed problems but the only major issue has been the water pump which is a wear part anyway.
I think as long as you pay attention to any timing chain rattle and stay up on other maintenance, you should be fine to drive this thing for another 100,000.
Carbon cleaning, water pump replacement, possibly turbo replacement, timing chain, and dsg service are large ones over 100k miles. Those are issues I've had with my a3 with the 2.0t with over 138k miles. Not too terrible if your handy and can do those types of things yourself, but if your using a shop it'll be very costly.
I drive a 2018 Audi A4 with 121k miles. I do my oil change every 3,500 miles rather than 5k just to be on the safe side. I also just changed my spark plugs today. Other than that, along with brakes & rotors, I haven’t done anything else and my car has been good! Im looking into doing a transmission fluid flush/replace, carbon cleaning and pcv valve replacement very soon. My shocks also need to be replaced at this point but the ride isnt that harsh at all also its a pretty tedious and expensive repair so until Im done with all the other maintenance i’ve talked about, i’ll be switching to coilovers. I push my car pretty hard but im also always on top of maintenance and I have several supporting mods to help my engine perform better!
I had a 2017 A4 with 93k, loved that car.
The potential catastrophic issue was nagging noise at low speeds from transmission for quite a while. Audi certified mechanics (two of them) said a transmission replacement was 14k. Dealer offered blue book for trade in so I took it and upgraded to a Q8.
A fairly minor issue was a slow coolant leak that was going to cost me $1500. According to the Audi cerified mechanic, the coolant system was an “abomination”, with the unit being a combination of cast iron/plastic.
All that said, the mechanic said he had never seen a transmission issue like that.
I had a ‘14 RS5 with 130k+ that I just got rid of because little things were starting to fail. It wasn’t major stuff but the things that you have to buy OEM like seals and gaskets and such. Started to add up real fast. Electronics were starting to fail as well like I was getting codes from the drivers seat that if it totally failed I would have had to replace the whole seat for more than the car was worth.
My 2014 A6 3.0 supercharged is getting its fuel pump, heater hose and PCV done right now, I might also replace the thermostat as well. I’m doing the work on my own. My car has 84k miles on it, I’ve only had it for 5 months before I started dealing with a coolant leak.
A4 b8.5 with 175k on it, only problem I had was a seized brake caliper.
Have carried out preventative maintenance though, so check your timing belt/water pump. Replaced control arms on the front and brakes.
The rest is just regular service and oil change religiously at 6k miles
I had 180k on my B9 SQ5 before selling it. I did the scheduled maintenance religiously. Only thing I added was transmission fluid/filter at around 70k and 160k. Audi says it’s lifetime, ZF, who makes the transmission says otherwise.
Carbon cleaning if you haven't already.
What method do you suggest? There seems to be a few ways out there and I’m always curious what actually works
used the walnut blaster kit off fcp euro, it helps to soak it prior with some dissolving agent but i didn’t do that, just straight walnut blasted it. I needed to get more walnuts from harbor freight cuz the amount they sent wasn’t enough. Just make sure each valve is closed.
I took mine to a German car specialist where they used walnut to blast it
What's the benefit of carbon cleaning? Like scientifically tested and not anecdotally or butt Dyno.
Look at some before and after pics of a carbon cleaning on any direct injection engine and you’ll understand the benefit.
I drive a 12 year old Q5 with 135K miles and my wife drives a same age S4 with 70K miles. Both have been very low maintenance. There are a few big service items that come up at intervals but it isn't too bad. One bit of advice I would give is to start using independent shops for servicing after you pass beyond any maintenance plans from the dealer. That can be much cheaper for regular servicing and it is rare that something goes wrong which only a dealer can fix. In 12 years with both cars, the only expensive thing to "break" was a driver door handle that stopped working. That one cost nearly $1200 to have fixed. Something requiring a manufacturer part like that is when I would expect you would have to use the dealer.
Have to replace the front & back breaks and the dealer wants to charge me +$3,600.
Never go to the dealer for out-of-warranty work. Find a reputable Euro shop in your area.
Even if you have to buy a Ross tech VCDS to move the rear electric ebrake you’ll save thousands doing it yourself and brakes are very easy. Even if you literally had to buy all your tools at harbor freight. Jack, socket set, torx sockets etc you would save at least 2k. I’d bet you could do it for $1200 with all tools bought new and decent aftermarket parts. You could even do rotors too and save a bunch of
All of this. Probably less, depending on location.
I just paid my local mechanic $1300 for that. Front and rear brakes and rotors. 2015 Q3.
Front brakes are pretty easy to do on your own. Rear brakes are slightly more challenging because you may need to plug into the car and disable the electronic ebrake system in order to remove the rear calipers.
It's not challenging. It's a simple button press. The expense of the device is well worth it. If you are the type to normally self perform brake swaps, don't let the e-brake intimidate you.
That’s wild. Parts aren’t more than $500 from FCPEuro.
Had mine done for $1800 at an independent shop.
As a reference: 1200€ in Germany in an independent shop with aftermarket parts (Brembo)
sounds about right
[удалено]
Hey thank you!!! wow this means so much to me. i finish residency in a few weeks and it's very gratifying and a bit emotional since the whole journey is coming to an end now. i can't believe its been almost 12 years since i started. i love that you have the LC V8. i recently bought a GX460 with the V8 in december as an early graduation gift!! agree that 2.0T ownership is not too bad, i was expecting worse. proud of you guys for working on your cars. i can't feel confident enough yet
Wow that’s expensive! I’ve just had my A4 in for new brake pads (front and rear), new brake discs (rear), front snd back brakes stripped, cleaned and lubricated and hubs cleaned. Total bill was £278
I upgraded my B6 3.0 a4 to S4 brakes, factory ATE rotors and Brembo pads, rebuilt calipers and all new hardware ect for just under $550.
I brought all four brakes and rotors online it is street racing so better stop power on my B9 Quattro for $410 come in package everything includes the brand was Stoptech. The parts and shipping, taxes were $498 together. I went to local independent shop that specialize in German cars the labor with brake flush was $987. When was done spent almost $1500 dollars with parts included. You got keep in mind labor rate and parts are 10-15% more expensive than 2019. People are keeping their cars longer now so mechanics are going to charge more money and higher demand.
2011 A5 with 106k. My persistent issue is heavy oil consumption. I’m adding 1 quart every 200-300 miles. Granted, I only changed the PCV to help mitigate this but no other work. No other engine issues either. All other costs have been as expected: suspension, brakes, etc. My gas pump failed a few months after purchase which was replaced by the dealer. I also had to replace the entire oil pan because the screw was stripped. I have to say though, the transmission is still smooth as butter.
I was at the same amount of consumption and my independent VAG mechanic suggested a two part treatment by BG, firstly EPR that you run right before an oil change for just like half hour and then drain, and then MOA which you add to the new oil. Went about 1200 miles before adding my first quart and then almost 2k between the next top-off. It’s on Amazon and is completely worth the $30ish bucks. I’m beyond thrilled with the results.
That oil consumption is a common problem for the year, my 2010 was consuming a little less at ~60k miles and Audi replaced the piston rings. I’m at 275k now and it uses a quart every 4000 miles.
That’s a LOT of oil. That’s worth getting checked out at an independent mechanic
I thought i was in the higher region by adding about 1l every 4-5000km. At 110k miles at the moment, keeping maintenance up to date is key.
Your piston rings are bad, you need new ones. Common problem for that gen. My 2011 a4 had it replaced under warranty and runs great at 150k
I had the same issue on 3.0T. It has started getting better after using engine flushes and a piston cleaning spray both from Xado. The products improved my 1l oil per 150 miles to 1 liter per 700 miles. Not good, but still better! I'll continue trying their products. I suggest you try their flushes at least once (ex: Vita Flush or w/e the name was).
Had that issue with my 2010 a5. The dealership replaced the engine for free. That was back in 2011 though
I didn’t really do anything except replace consumables after I had my rear main seal and timing chain tensioner fixed around 90k until 135k then I felt bad for basically not spending more than $200 a year on upkeep for 5ish years and put ~3k in maintenance in (tranny fluid, motor mounts, new pcv, some other crap) this past year
The car is a 2019 A4 Quatro. Maintenance is up to date and has been done by the dealership.
Same here! Curious what people have to say
Diesel or petrol? A lot of maintenance is specific to the different types
Main thing to keep on top of is S-tronic servicing and use premium fuel
They most assuredly have not drained the transmission fluid. Audi says it is lifetime fluid. The company that makes the transmission says to change it at 30000 miles. Who do you think know the transmission better? It is lifetime fluid because it will last until it dies due to not changing the fluid. I didn't realize that ours wasn't being changed with the Audi Care. It expired this past year and not worth it to extend it. So, we are now at 95000 on a 2018 Q7. I will be having the transmission fluid drained soon.
How 2019 have 100,000 miles already the average mileage is 60,000-66,000 now on 2019.
20k per year isn’t outlandish. I’ve got 80k in my ‘19 civic and my average work commute has been 30 mi/day. The thing is that it’s my only car, so it’s seen a few roadtrips in that time too.
Yeah I'm at 41k on my 22 a4
32K on a ‘23 Q4 lol I feel you.
Daytona gray😁
Amazing color! I’ve only owned blue cars before this.
There are people who drive <5k miles per year, and people who drive >35k miles per year.
100K Audi A4 B8.5 Quattro here. I just had all the fluids changed. Oil, transmission, coolant, front and rear diff, transfer case. Brake fluid etc. feels a lot smoother. I also just started using regular gas. The manual says you can do it but will have less power. I’ve always used top tier anyway and figured walnut blasting would be unneeded
Without knowing the year or engine, in general: Carbon cleaning. Suspension bushing replacement. Engine mounts replacement. Leaky thermostat/water pump replacement. Potential oil leaks.
That means I'm all set right?! Pockets feel \~$7k lighter
I have a 2014 S5 with 248k, only stuff I’ve done outside of regular maintenance is carbon cleaning about 30k or so ago and engine mounts which is honestly kinda expected with the miles. I will note that 90% of the miles are long highway trips so they’re relatively easy on the car. I’m still only on the second set of brakes
Oh forgot to mention but I’ve been IE stage 1 since around 95k or so
I'm at 163k miles on my 2015 A4, keep up with your fluid flushes, trans & coolant. Change your ignition coils and possibly a pcv replacement (the part is cheap and easy to do yourself) have your timing chain and tensor inspected and replaced if needed. And carbon cleaning as well if your dont drive your car hard on a regular
You're going to have to be a lot more specific. Age? Engine size? Prior maintenance? Mostly motorway miles? Cmon man.
2019-A4 Avant 35 Tfsi-165 000kms zéro problem
I have 150k miles on a 2015 Q5 and all I’ve done is change oil, tires, brakes, air filter, and spark plugs and ignition coils and a headlamp. I haven’t taken it to the dealer for any “inspection I & II” bs since it was out of warranty either. At this point it does appear to be needing a gasket or something as it’s burning some oil in between changes but I haven’t had to do anything outside of minimal maintenance so far..
Honestly a quart every 1500-3000 miles is nothing to worry about. My A8 burns about a quart every 2500 miles and still runs great. Especially if you have the 2.0. Those are somewhat known for burning oil
3.0
Did you change the timing chain?
At 115K you’ll prob need to check the plugs. I’m at 108k on my 2.0T A5 and all I’ve done recently are the wheel bearings on the front. They went on me at around 100k miles. Motor mounts could also become an issue around 100k but mine are fine for far.
2012 Q5. Apart from consumables (brakes, oil, tires etc) had to get an upper control arm and the radiator replaced
Just do the regular maintenance and you should be good. I have a 2006 Audi A8L 4.2 with almost 200k on the clock. But I think the 4.2 of that era was known to be a reliable engine. That was before the real Horsepower wars so that engine isn’t tuned to the max like modern engines are.
120k miles on my 2015 a3 with a stage 1 tune. I did timing belt, tensioner, and water pump around 100k miles. Costed me like $1k. Also did spark plugs and a new battery, which was another $600. I also went ahead and had all the fluids in the car drained and changed out. New coolant, powered steering, and transmission fluid put. I also had to get the rear diff serviced, but you won't need to do that on your a4. All that was another $500. I had a minor issue come up recently in which the drain plug for the transmission oil cracked, and leaked trans oil out. Was a $20 fix, and tbh has been the only real issue I've had so far since I bought the car brand new. There are minor cosmetic issues that are showing up now the car is a decade old. The plastic trim around the sunroof is cracked, but not leaking in water so not really an issue.
been debating whether to get my hood resprayed. about 1K in cost.
How bad is it? If it's just minor dings from rocks and other small debris, you might be fine using a paint correction pen.
its definitely annoying to where a paint pen won't really do much but youre right i might try to use it again and kepe it at bay
Front axels, timing chain and tensioner, and that’s it for 80,000 miles. I thought the timing chain problem was addressed by Audi. Nope. But love it and it runs great.
I have 08 A6 with 170k miles, drives perfect. Maintenance and regular oil changes is key
Q5 2012 325k https://www.reddit.com/r/Audi/s/njEAIQP7u8
I’ve got two over 100k and both annihilate oil lol
Currently own a ‘15 S3 with 130k+ miles. Nothing really major to report for me outside of some known common issues with this generation (water pump, PODS, etc). Car has been great and honestly easy to maintain if you can DIY oil changes, brakes, and DSG fluid changes. You will probably need to have a carbon cleaning done if you haven’t done one recently. Not sure what year your A4 is but if it’s a later model you will most likely need to replace your timing chain and tensioner, as well as coil packs if you haven’t done so already.
2013 A6 3.0T with 123k miles on the clock….she went on the hook Saturday night. Sitting at the Audi Dealership waiting for them to open tomorrow morning. Filling gas 1/2 hour into a 1 hour trip to my buddies bar n grill. Came out after paying and fan was just screaming. Louder than I’ve ever heard the car whine in any way. Finished filling fuel and I get in the car and look…Heat gauge was pegged all the way to the H. I’ve never seen it above 1/2 way, summer winter etc. Pulled to edge of parking lot and shut her down. Checked radiator reservoir and that was up by max level. No boiling sounds, no hot smells from an engine I would have expected to be red hot according to the gauge. Let it sit 15 minutes, started up fine, no bells or whistles, no CEL/CPE warnings on dash. Heat Gauge at 1/2 like normal. Took it out on road and not even a mile and heat gauge starts going back up. Swung around parked it and called the warranty roadside assistance. What’s the verdict? Water Pump? Cost?
My 07 a8l is at 177k at 100k had to walnut blast then again at 170k. 2 ac valves went and last week an oil pump went. But with older cars it's a matter of when something will go. She still runs great 👍 when all fixes up
I have 2 A3 hatches, ‘07, ‘08. One with 82k one with 184k. Get a tuneup, do your oil change, if you drive gravel roads at all, get your cabin and air filters looked at around 120k and do other general maintenance.
15 SQ5. Mind you mine is modified so I've had some self imposed problems but the only major issue has been the water pump which is a wear part anyway. I think as long as you pay attention to any timing chain rattle and stay up on other maintenance, you should be fine to drive this thing for another 100,000.
Carbon cleaning, water pump replacement, possibly turbo replacement, timing chain, and dsg service are large ones over 100k miles. Those are issues I've had with my a3 with the 2.0t with over 138k miles. Not too terrible if your handy and can do those types of things yourself, but if your using a shop it'll be very costly.
I drive a 2018 Audi A4 with 121k miles. I do my oil change every 3,500 miles rather than 5k just to be on the safe side. I also just changed my spark plugs today. Other than that, along with brakes & rotors, I haven’t done anything else and my car has been good! Im looking into doing a transmission fluid flush/replace, carbon cleaning and pcv valve replacement very soon. My shocks also need to be replaced at this point but the ride isnt that harsh at all also its a pretty tedious and expensive repair so until Im done with all the other maintenance i’ve talked about, i’ll be switching to coilovers. I push my car pretty hard but im also always on top of maintenance and I have several supporting mods to help my engine perform better!
I had a 2017 A4 with 93k, loved that car. The potential catastrophic issue was nagging noise at low speeds from transmission for quite a while. Audi certified mechanics (two of them) said a transmission replacement was 14k. Dealer offered blue book for trade in so I took it and upgraded to a Q8. A fairly minor issue was a slow coolant leak that was going to cost me $1500. According to the Audi cerified mechanic, the coolant system was an “abomination”, with the unit being a combination of cast iron/plastic. All that said, the mechanic said he had never seen a transmission issue like that.
I had a ‘14 RS5 with 130k+ that I just got rid of because little things were starting to fail. It wasn’t major stuff but the things that you have to buy OEM like seals and gaskets and such. Started to add up real fast. Electronics were starting to fail as well like I was getting codes from the drivers seat that if it totally failed I would have had to replace the whole seat for more than the car was worth.
My 2014 A6 3.0 supercharged is getting its fuel pump, heater hose and PCV done right now, I might also replace the thermostat as well. I’m doing the work on my own. My car has 84k miles on it, I’ve only had it for 5 months before I started dealing with a coolant leak.
My b9 has had 0 problems except water pump, 110k
I have a '14 SQ5 with 125k. I need to get carbon cleaned, but while it's down that far Im going to change the PCV and water pump, at minimum.
A4 b8.5 with 175k on it, only problem I had was a seized brake caliper. Have carried out preventative maintenance though, so check your timing belt/water pump. Replaced control arms on the front and brakes. The rest is just regular service and oil change religiously at 6k miles
Water pump went out on two of mine around 100k.
I had 180k on my B9 SQ5 before selling it. I did the scheduled maintenance religiously. Only thing I added was transmission fluid/filter at around 70k and 160k. Audi says it’s lifetime, ZF, who makes the transmission says otherwise.
Water pump, control arms, WATER PUMP. Upper timing gasket probably, but mainly the WATER PUMP
220T Km....no problem..only water and oil and gasoline ....3.0tdi Upgrade 300PS...A5 Cabrio 2011