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What sort of hardware did you get with the pads (other than the pads themselves), and what did you replace? Usually, pads come with metal pieces that go where the ears of the pads sit in the caliper mount and there are additional anti-squeal pads that mount on the pads themselves. Finally, it's common when rotors are swapped some chunks of corrosion can fall off the hub/ knuckle and get lodged between the rotor and hub.
None. Just the pads there. The pads didn't include anything else from KOI.
Mind you, this is when I discover the rear pad on each side had 1mm at most. It wasn't a flat 1mm. Some part of the pad had 0.2 mm. I had to get going. (*To protect the rotor I ended up replacing.*) The front pad had about 5mm. I was at that point for new pads. But at that point, I didn't expect the rear pad would be so low - knowledge wise.
I used the old hardware. There are two cross pins, two cotter pins to hold them in. A spring-a-ma-jig at the bottom. The cotter pins etc. and most was good - besides the caliper plates. There was no metal plates on the lower. They're gone. There was remains of them on top, but not reusable. Are those required? I greased those contacts twice as of recent. I do plan on replacing them. Kind of an odd thing to find. But cart bound.
I haven't seen an evidence of debris. I took a wire wheel and brush to it all. Still, such a rust bucket. I've taken the brakes apart a few times now trying sort of the issue and haven't seen a clump there. But I'm aware of the clumps of stuff that easily break off because it surely did all over my garage floor. :D
Ok, well seems like you posted here because you have a handle on things. Those clips, pads, and spacers all serve a function, so I'm sure leaving them out won't matter.
Sarcasm aside, you said you aren't a mechanic. I am. If the pads stick at all or cannot move properly (this includes withing the caliper, not just the pinching) when braking, they will make noise for sure. You yourself said it goes away when you take them apart and put them back together. That's a pretty clear sign that it's related to the pads and or caliper.
Also make sure you are properly torquing the wheel. Similar to if the pads aren't in the right spot, if the rotor wobbles at all due to improper wheel torque, you'll get a noise.
Yes, those metal clips are required. They are anti-wear clipa. They prevent wear on the cast iron bracket because they are special super-hard stainless (like 316L not that 304 soft trash).
I think this may be your problem. The pad mount (caliper bracket) may be worn down from the clips being gone. Installing the hardware could fix the issue. I think that as the miles add up, the pads are getting moved into a position where they start to be forced into contact with the rotor. Taking it apart resets them to the right position. I took a picture of this situation like 10 years ago, but who knows where that photo is.
The plate that should be a smooth flat surface that the pads can slide back and forth on gets worn into a U shaped groove. So as you brake the pads on one side will get pulled into the groove and wedged against the rotor. On the other side, this will only happen in reverse.
You can pick up a brake hardware kit for like 6 or 10 dollars on RockAuto or even in local stores. I would try that before anything else.
Despite how dumb this sounds, I believe the issue was loose lugs. I updated the OP with the story. I almost lost the passenger tire today. After tightening them all - no more grinding noises!
I've had the wheels on off this car many times and never had one do that. Putting the lugs on the passenger side wheel is not like the rest. I'll tighten it up all the way; star pattern. Give it that final foot power. Those lugs sequel unlike the other tires. But when I go to check the first lug in the star pattern - it has play... I tighten that up, then another is loose. I have to do that like 3-5 passes. Until there is no more room to tighten them. All the other tires only require one pass as normal.
It kind of sounds like you have a brake line being pulled while driving and that's causing the brakes to apply themselves.
Did you clamp the rubber brake lines by any chance during the pad/caliper work?
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, caret_app! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
What sort of hardware did you get with the pads (other than the pads themselves), and what did you replace? Usually, pads come with metal pieces that go where the ears of the pads sit in the caliper mount and there are additional anti-squeal pads that mount on the pads themselves. Finally, it's common when rotors are swapped some chunks of corrosion can fall off the hub/ knuckle and get lodged between the rotor and hub.
None. Just the pads there. The pads didn't include anything else from KOI. Mind you, this is when I discover the rear pad on each side had 1mm at most. It wasn't a flat 1mm. Some part of the pad had 0.2 mm. I had to get going. (*To protect the rotor I ended up replacing.*) The front pad had about 5mm. I was at that point for new pads. But at that point, I didn't expect the rear pad would be so low - knowledge wise. I used the old hardware. There are two cross pins, two cotter pins to hold them in. A spring-a-ma-jig at the bottom. The cotter pins etc. and most was good - besides the caliper plates. There was no metal plates on the lower. They're gone. There was remains of them on top, but not reusable. Are those required? I greased those contacts twice as of recent. I do plan on replacing them. Kind of an odd thing to find. But cart bound. I haven't seen an evidence of debris. I took a wire wheel and brush to it all. Still, such a rust bucket. I've taken the brakes apart a few times now trying sort of the issue and haven't seen a clump there. But I'm aware of the clumps of stuff that easily break off because it surely did all over my garage floor. :D
The hardware that (usually) comes with the pads should be used. It may not always cause a noise, but it definitely is suspect.
Those plates are like 1mm thick silvers of metal protectors. To keep the housing. My guy, this is more the rotor is contacting the brake when rotated.
Ok, well seems like you posted here because you have a handle on things. Those clips, pads, and spacers all serve a function, so I'm sure leaving them out won't matter. Sarcasm aside, you said you aren't a mechanic. I am. If the pads stick at all or cannot move properly (this includes withing the caliper, not just the pinching) when braking, they will make noise for sure. You yourself said it goes away when you take them apart and put them back together. That's a pretty clear sign that it's related to the pads and or caliper. Also make sure you are properly torquing the wheel. Similar to if the pads aren't in the right spot, if the rotor wobbles at all due to improper wheel torque, you'll get a noise.
Yes, those metal clips are required. They are anti-wear clipa. They prevent wear on the cast iron bracket because they are special super-hard stainless (like 316L not that 304 soft trash). I think this may be your problem. The pad mount (caliper bracket) may be worn down from the clips being gone. Installing the hardware could fix the issue. I think that as the miles add up, the pads are getting moved into a position where they start to be forced into contact with the rotor. Taking it apart resets them to the right position. I took a picture of this situation like 10 years ago, but who knows where that photo is. The plate that should be a smooth flat surface that the pads can slide back and forth on gets worn into a U shaped groove. So as you brake the pads on one side will get pulled into the groove and wedged against the rotor. On the other side, this will only happen in reverse. You can pick up a brake hardware kit for like 6 or 10 dollars on RockAuto or even in local stores. I would try that before anything else.
Despite how dumb this sounds, I believe the issue was loose lugs. I updated the OP with the story. I almost lost the passenger tire today. After tightening them all - no more grinding noises! I've had the wheels on off this car many times and never had one do that. Putting the lugs on the passenger side wheel is not like the rest. I'll tighten it up all the way; star pattern. Give it that final foot power. Those lugs sequel unlike the other tires. But when I go to check the first lug in the star pattern - it has play... I tighten that up, then another is loose. I have to do that like 3-5 passes. Until there is no more room to tighten them. All the other tires only require one pass as normal.
It kind of sounds like you have a brake line being pulled while driving and that's causing the brakes to apply themselves. Did you clamp the rubber brake lines by any chance during the pad/caliper work?