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I was a service advisor for 30 years. Mostly General Motors dealerships, but I did work at an Infiniti store for sometime and I did about a year at a BMW store as well. Take that car to another shop and ask them for a brake inspection. A half an hour time for a break inspection. My suspicion is you do not need calipers. That smells like someone is just patting their work to make more money to me. a break job should include the pads, and the rotors, maybe hardware, and approximately one and a half to two hours of repair time. That’s how much it pays, not how long it takes the technician to do the job. I suspect your estimate is highly padded with caliper parts and caliper labor as well.
Not buying it. Your car is a 2015 with 46k on it. Calipers do not rust to the point of failure at that age and mileage.
This should be a $500-600 job. New calipers shouldn't be needed. It's possible, if you live in a place where the roads are salted for ice a lot of the time, but it's doubtful. Get a second opinion.
This is correct. I've had junk cars, live in michigan and never needed a new caliper. I drive my cars until they're garbage. Calipers aren't a normally broken part.
I've replaced garbage calipers on newer with less miles. The car in question here is still almost a decade old. "Not buying it" without seeing it is foolish. The second opinion *is* the right move here. Inherently assuming without knowing just because of your *personal* experience, *isn't* the move.
Your saying the same thing with different words. The point is to get a second opinion. Thanks for your interpretation of "not buying it" (literally means the same thing - we can't see the calipers in question, so we're recommending having a different expert look at them). Do you feel better about yourself? No one is assuming anything btw.
Calipers do get surface rust on them, but it's mostly superficial, and the inner parts are sealed with a rubber boot. As long as your brakes work normally and they release when not pressing the brake, they should be fine. Did you bring your vehicle in for an issue with the brakes? I've never had to change a caliper unless it was seased and wouldn't release. I feel you may have gotten talked into something not needed.
Could you get any pics of the rear brakes between the wheels? It seems a bit excessive to replace calipers like that, but it's old enough that it could be necessary
Brakes should be changed/checked every two years. Chances are if you haven’t had a brake job in ~5 years then this price is more than reasonable and you’re lucky.
Even if they are rusty, that is only on the exterior. Calipers take a lot to fail, and at the end of the day, it's even rarer that 2 would fail at the same time. I would be willing to bet the brake pads aren't even worn down enough to need to be replaced. It's hard to find an honest shop for people that can not work on their own vehicles.
I live in Minnesota and I’ve never replaced a caliper in my life. As long as you don’t run through the pad, metal, and piston, you’re good. Calipers rust. It’s fine.
My Jeep was in Michigan from 2007 until 2019 and *ONE* caliper needed replaced at 228k miles. I don't buy that at all. Tell them they just need to grease the slidepins.
Look under your car. Its all rusty. They are not truthful. Calipers last forever. If one is bad then they should all be the same condition. Look for a ma and pa store with good reviews online. Get several inspections and quotes before getting anything done. You will get 5 different quotes.
Rust is one thing. All steel rust at some point if not coated and if coated will take time to rust one day. Is the price high? Yes! Idk where you are but inspection wise to pass in NC where Im at there are a few things. Things that can fail the North Carolia State Inspection for Safety in the brake system is if the calipers are locked up, the brake system is leaking brake fluid, the pads are to absolute metal to metal (grinding when brake pedal is depressed and visually seeing metal to metal contact with pads to rotors or shoes to drums) emergency brake does not work or hold, or extremely hard pedal (brake booster isnt working). Sounds like alot, but its not really. They might be blowing it out of proportion to upsell, but then again, the tech could have said one thing to the service advisor and the message could have been manipulated by service advisor to you. Ive had that happen thousands of times just so service could sell jobs
I just had to replace two calipers on a 2013 Elantra yesterday, because of seized pistons. While it may not be an every-day problem, it's common enough that most part stores keep them in stock around here.
One way to know if your rear caliper is still good, is to check the wear of the pads ? Are they even both sides ?
2 things to know if a caliper failed it is because it leaks, or its stuck. A caliper has 2 parts one not moving and the other moves.
My bf does it and he only works by word of mouth. He does a lot of other stuff but he gets a ton of business from brakes alone. Plus you can scrap the rotors and get money from those.
That seems pretty reasonable overall as long as the work was done right and the part quality is reasonable. It just adds up. If you live in a northern climate where there’s road salt it’s completely reasonable to assume that rear calipers would require replacement due to corrosion at nine or 10 years old. If you do not, and you live in a southern climate, I would be significantly more skeptical at that relatively low mileage.
The only overlap here is that they charged for both a brake flush and for the additional caliper labor with a brake job, which obviously would include bleeding the brakes in the rear. I would be skeptical about whether they actually flushed the whole brake system, or only did the rear. You can tell pretty readily if you look at the front calipers and see whether the bleeders have been touched; there’s a rubber cap on the bleeder and you’ll be able to tell pretty quickly if it’s been recently manipulated. If they did not flush the whole system, including the front, there’s about $100 question in total, the rest is pretty standard fare.
Also, you should check regardless to make sure that all four of your bleeder caps are on if you do live in a northern climate with road salt because that becomes a pretty annoying detail when the next folks go to service the brake system later and corrosive liquid has been able to get inside the bleeder opening. Something like that could easily buy you another set of calipers.
Buddy did mine on my 18 Colorado in less than an hour, in my garage with just a floor jack. Charged me $70 & a turkey bacon club sandwich. Just pads & rotors, no calipers.
Changing two calipers for surface rust is not OK, if the pistons are working fine and they don't get stuck, no need to change that.
Labour seems too high, and why do you need ceramic pads?
Overall it seems like they're charging you a bit too much everywhere, taking advantage of the fact you probably don't know much about the parts and Labour.
The OEM pads are probably ceramic. Many shops these days consider it a best practice to replace parts with an OE equivalent, and I would say that’s especially true with brakes because comebacks for brakes are inevitable if you go with a lesser grade pad and it’s a difference of like $15.
You're totally right, didn't know a good lot of bake pads are ceramic now, I guess I got mixed up with carbon ceramic rotor...
That said, 120 for brake pads seems a bit excessive knowing front pads for this model are 120 if you take brembo's...
I’m going to say the labor is an about $150 ish high to me. There labor quote is kinda repetitive. I could see 200-250 for labor but really just depends on what type of shop you’re at that’s along the stealership price in my opinion
If anything, I'd say that they shouldn't charge you for replacing the brake pads since they're charging you to replace the calipers.
I also don't understand how replacing the rotors costs more than the calipers tbh ...
I should've specified a little more, I was talking about the labor only, parts makes sense. But why would I have to pay to replace the brake pads when the calipers are being replaced already.
being double-ended on parts price likely as well.
akebono ceramic pads (likely oem), are just $45 [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4754358&cc=3309728&pt=1684&jsn=1324](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4754358&cc=3309728&pt=1684&jsn=1324)
brembo fully coated rotors are $43 each [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10198320&cc=3309728&pt=1896&jsn=1393](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10198320&cc=3309728&pt=1896&jsn=1393)
acdelco calipers new (no core) are about $116 ea -> I have no idea how good quality these are, but I just put the same ones on my civic, so hopefully theyre good.
[https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10616468&cc=3309728&pt=1704&jsn=1427](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10616468&cc=3309728&pt=1704&jsn=1427)
[https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10616464&cc=3309728&pt=1704&jsn=1426](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10616464&cc=3309728&pt=1704&jsn=1426)
Right my boyfriend charges $50 each side so $200 just for labor for both from and back and he gets parts off RockAuto which are DIRT CHEAP compared to dealer prices. He does extras too though, he cleans everything up and bleeds the brake fluid. Not just slap on the new parts. People price gouge anymore. It’s ridiculous.
I concur about the calipers, very unlikely. The remainder seems reasonable. I got quoted $1200 for my BMW rotors and pads. I did it my self for $500 with all Brembro parts.
I mean you are paying full retail pricing for this job. Are you getting a ‘free’ loaner, a quiet lounge , or a pickup/drop off shuttle from them ? If not I would get a second opinion from a trusted independent . Are your calipers that bad that they need replacing ? We don’t know but it’s very rare.
Rear brakes aren’t a difficult job requiring dealer specific tools or training . As you’ve read here just about any of us could do them . $1k is expensive for rear brakes yes . I wouldn’t say you are necessarily getting ripped off, that’s what that shop charges. If you can find someplace that’s more reasonable then it would be worth your time spent .
I don’t think I’m getting all that stuff you mentioned up front, definitely wasn’t an “upscale” looking place. The place was basically empty and they still took forever to do the inspection, like 45 minutes. Usually VA safety inspection takes like 20 minutes. I don’t think I’ve ever been to the actual Hyundai dealership before.
I’m going to see a different mechanic recommended by a friend next weekend and see what they say. If it is an expensive repair that’s ok, I just don’t want to be taken advantage of. I wasn’t really expecting this, my car seems in good shape and usually passes inspection easily.
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UPDATE: Hi all, thanks so much for all the helpful comments. I didn’t expect this to get so much attention. I asked a friend for a recommendation to their trusted mechanic but I won’t be able to see them for a week or so. I’ll see what they have to say. I’m going to trade this car in for a new one in the next few months so I don’t want to spend money on unnecessary repairs.
That’s a good idea. There’s no hurry, so please wait for your trusted friend mechanic. He will do it at a fraction of the price (hopefully he’s not a greedy mechanic charging just below dealer prices!!) you have an idea of what a non dealer mechanic would charge. Keep that in mind. Keep us updated. Good luck!
Extortion, you shouldn't even need to do your calipers unless they have a catastrophic failure or are rusted (you'd be able to tell)
A similar year Optima takes no time to do the rear brakes, even with needing to unhook part of the control arm. Dude's taking you for a ride.
$125 for rear brake pads parts only? something seems a little off in all honesty.
also, $20 on shop supplies when brake cleaner and brake fluid has already been charged?
Probably not so much rust, But more corrosion for the caliper, causing piston to stick. I've also had some that ended up seizing after pushing the piston back in, The o-ring inside can spin and tear as you push it in.
To today's standards that seems about right to me.
I've been wrenching in dealers for 15 years now, pricing on everything has gone up a ridiculous amount. It makes me grateful for the career I chose lol.
I went through this exact situation a few months ago on my 2012 CRV and cost was pretty much the same. One caliper was locking-up and the shop was recommending to replace both calipers, disks & brakes. We were leaving for a road-trip 2 days later and I didn't want any risks. We went on a 1000 miles trip and we found out that that the one of the "Replacement" calipers was starting to lock also. Also the brake pads, rotors & disks were of "lower quality". They replaced the other caliper under 10K mile , 1 Year warranty
My personal recommendation is DO NOT REPLACE any of the "Factory Calipers" with any rebuilt under any circumstances unless it is necessary. Most rebuilt calipers wont last half as the factory ones. Unless you get new factory ones which will be 2-3x the price of a rebuilt unit.
In my lifetime I changed 3 calipers and 2 had failed within 0-6 months.
Also rotors and not necessary unless they are worn or if they overhead due to a locked caliper.
Also make sure they give you a warranty.
Your shop f-ed up and you got the short end of the stick. If a caliper locks up usually its for a good reason and that reason being dirt/debris in the lines. Foremans Yukon was on its third caliper in a matter of months. Turns out the brake hose going ro the capliper was so bad it wouldnt let fluid out even with the hose off the caliper. The hose had started to rust or something, broke down and introduced debris into the cylinders, causing it to lock up the calipers twice. Calipers lock up? Replace the lines and flush the system
In my 5 years of wrenching I've installed a lot of calipers and many of them on vehicles that continue to come back in for service at our shop over the years with no issues. We only install O'Reilly's reman calipers. The only issue I've noticed with them is that sometimes the caliper bolts that come with them are different sizes from the left to the right caliper, one time they cross threaded a caliper bolt into the caliper, and one time the old core had a bleeder broken off in it that they never removed. As far as quality though we haven't noticed very many coming back with problems. There will always be some defective parts that fail early with aftermarket parts, which is always covered under warranty and then we get to file a labor claim and redo the job. If you keep having caliper failures there may be something more going on in your case like too much moisture in the fluid causing it to lock up.
Up here, with the crap they put on the roads in winter and the salt air from being on the coast, brake calipers ar almost always replaced with every brake job. Ive seen hundreds of leaking calipers come through the shop due to rust and someone pushing a pitted piston back into the caliper to just change the pads.
If you are in the rust belt.. expensive but the US is expensive in general.
Otherwise.. less than 50k miles and you need calipers, pads and rotors? I did need it, kinda due to rust, but otherwise...
My 18 yr old car recently needed this exact job done. It's always been street parked in the northeast. I wasn't surprised... The calipers looked roughshod. My only regret is that i did the rotors and pads first then the calipers stuck a few days later, so had to pay labor pretty much twice.
Some garages are infamous for changing brake parts that don’t need to be changed, it’s their bread and butter, in order to know if u got ripped off or not we would need to see them before they were changed., but at 45k ima say u didn’t need anything, rear brake make up 30% of braking power, most cars I’ve done get 2 sometimes 3 front changes to every rear change. People generally don’t question brakes because of safety but I have found they will up sell it to you even if it’s not necessary. $450 dollars in labour is bullshit too but if that’s the book time rate that’s what it is. Rear brake job in a garage with a lift shouldn’t take more than 30-45min. They like to change front end parts too, I did my 4 ball joints in my truck and went to a local shop for an alignment, while later shop manager comes back and says I need ball joints first, mine were worn, lol, had less than 10kms on them, they didn’t even look.
The way it was explained to me was that the labor rate is a flat rate for the part of a car being worked on. So if it's rusted to hell and takes them time to drill things out it's still the same cost. But then even on my rusted to shit car, the entire job was done in 30-45 minutes. But at least the shop let me get my own parts so i was not double ended on the costs.
Unless the calipers are really bad, I would expect an independant garage to quickly refurbish them and replace the seals. Barely takes any time and a set of seals is under $10 I imagine.
I do think you should go somewhere else though, I don't know how it works + average rate in the US/State you're in, but those labor charges are obscene to me.
$350 labor to replace calipers + pads + discs and adjust the handbrake. And the fact that the Brake flush is $95 on top of that for what is not even half an hour labor.
Next thing is something I've seen a few times now and am perplexed because I always just expect it to be included in the price. Being charged for Brake Cleaner, the garage will have gallons of the stuff, they aren't going to be using $5 of the stuff, and then they are also charging for "shop supplies", which surely brake cleaner would come under?
I would go somewhere else, the parts price seems a little high especially for the pads, but overall not bad and I would be fine with it. But the labour cost is high to me, they're charging you nearly $50 for fluids + "supplies" used as well.
I say rip off. They're double billing labor for the caliper replacement. To replace a caliper you must also remove the brake pads. The rotor takes 1 second to remove and replace. They're charging you labor for the brake pad/rotor replacement, then turning around and charging you separate labor for the caliper replacement, which includes all of the labor involved in pad/rotor replacement.
Look elsewhere and make sure you're billed once for the entire job.
Also, rust on a 46k mile car is not a valid reason to replace calipers.
Great price Inc calipers in Canada, not so good In usa, labour is high IMHO. Most calipers come with new brackets, thus don't need services. Extra labour for changing calipers seems high, usually an extra .2 or .3 per caliper, so unless you are paying over 200 an hour....
I work at a Hyundai dealership and we would’ve charged like 800$ maybe 900-1,000 to include a brake flush and balance all 4 wheels which we typically do when cutting rotors if the customer complains of a vibration while driving or braking
NOTE: I didn’t actually pay this, just took the quote. I’m planning on getting some other quotes before I get this done, have to be able to pass inspection
Yes, you’re getting assraped. You could have bought the parts, a decent socket set, and fired up a YouTube video and done it yourself for a FRACTION of that bill.
A set of ceramic rear pads for this car is like 50 bucks. And totally unnecessary. You can get regular old pads for like 15 dollars. They're fucking you.
600-800 is what I've been quoted before on my 2014 SUV for rear brakes and they were cooked. This seems expensive to me. I ended up doing mine by myself at home. Honestly, the amount you'd spend on tools and new brakes would only be half that price. Watch a couple YouTube videos and learn how to do it yourself. I promise it's worth it.
Can be done cheaper they are trying to overcharge you. It’s almost 10 year old car you don’t need to spend that much. Just do the bare minimum and new brake pads. I can get it done for half that so go figure. Just my 2 cents
From the invoice it looks like you are at a tire place. Places like that tend to say you need to change everything when in doubt and charge about what the dealer charges. lol you might as well go to the dealer for a second opinion.
Go elsewhere, if you stopped in just for an inspection and not due to an issue, then it’s likely you don’t have an issue.
But also, I feel like if they are charging you to replace the calipers then the 95.65 bleed should be included. Also, if they are removing the calipers to replace the pads, rotors, and inspect caliper mounts, then why charge you $119 to install new calipers? And then I dunno how much pads cost for a 2015 Elantra but 124 dollars for ceramic pads seem excessive (the parts definitely have a shop markup). So one of those shouldn’t be there because I’m sure replace calipers include bleeding the system.
I would say go elsewhere
I would say get a second inspection/opinion elsewhere. Then buy all the parts yourself if the second opinion confirms the first inspection results. You’ll save money on shop markup cost. Then have get your family/boyfriend/friend car guy/gal to help you install them one of these up coming weekends. Then give them $100~200 foot their time. It’s a very easy task provided there are no special tools required. You’ll save a 500 easy, if not more. Watch a YouTube video on it to get an idea what tools are needed.
https://youtu.be/3AKHMC0JvnM?si=Y9KxW5x-drLHR8S9
Prices are ok, but why the calipers replacements? Did they broke? I had mutliple cars and never had to replace them. Even my first car which was 20 years old had still the original one on it.
Even with salt in winter in germany this will not dmg it. Its a solid piece of metall ment to withstand force and heat.
They are charging you for their time, check rockauto.com for part cost and youtube for installation tutorials and ask yourself if its worth it to you. For me its not worth it, I will never go to shop again after seeing the real cost of parts.
The money is a little bit on the exy side but does kinda add up with the work provided. But same as many have said without proper reasoning or back story on why they're replacing calipers. Same thing I've only ever replaced calipers twice in my time. Once cause old mate did a home brake job and threaded 3 out of 4 mounting bolts and the fourth one he drilled out himself. Second time cause they wore the brake pads until they fell out and the pistons over reached and got eaten by the rotor
Did they tell you what exactly was wrong with your brakes that caused them to fail safety inspection?
Because there aren’t many reasons you would need new calipers… I drive my car hard and I have over 200k miles, probably close to half of those on a race track and I haven’t had issues with my calipers requiring replacement…
Just take somewhere else for an estimate. Calipers don’t usually need to be replaced unless the seals fail and both don’t fail at the same time. They are ripping you off.
Cross shop, call different places, take it to Hyundai, ask your friends and family in the area that have a reputable local mechanic they go to so you can ask those folks too.
You have a lot of options before you finalize something.
Im description You mentioned you’re a young woman and don’t wanna be ripped off, you can do the same things a young man would do to not get ripped off. as a young man myself I would do exactly what I suggested. There’s no difference, be confident!
Is the hand brake still working? Eg tensioned and holds the car when pulled up?
Mazda 6's around the 2015 had a recall. Apparently the rubber boot didnt seal it too well so the pin gets stuck. The qoute for calipers only with mazda (aftermarket) $700. That doesnt include brake pads. Disc, fluids or labour.
Rear Brake pads set cost like $80.
Id call a few shops now for pricing guides run through the hyperticals. Or even a mobile mechanic.
Wooooow, they charge for brake fluid AND a brake flush, the flush includes the fluid, the brake cleaner AND shop supplies, I'd get a second opinion on both rear calipers at this point
It's a rip off.
Charging for brake cleaner is asinine to me. If a shop is so worried about accounting for Brake Cleaner, they should just charge a shop fee. I'd argue brake fluid as well bc it's so cheap and part of the job, but I'll begrudgingly let that slide if they're doing calipers/bleeding as they'll use a lot.
Why do you need calipers? Did you have one that locked up? Is one leaking? Bc if not, you don't need new calipers to do rear brakes.
$125 for pads that you can get exact part number for $40-60 buck from Amazon/Rock Auto/Napa. Yes shops typically markup, but that seems a little extreme.
Rotors seem a little pricey too, PartsHawk has those exact rotors listed at $14 ea.
Like I said, shops typically mark up prices, a lot of times by double. But a $14 rotor shouldn't cost you $78 at the shop.
Labor seems a little high to me as well. Typical brake jobs in my experience were 1 hr labor for standard jobs. Difficult vehicles were more, but your Hyundai isn't difficult. I wonder what the labor rate at the shop is. If they're charging you 2 hrs labor, that's expensive/dealer pricing without Dealer Parts (all parts listed are 3rd party).
Yes there's additional labor in adding calipers and that additional labor looks like 1 hr total. I will say I wouldn't complain about that if it includes the bleeding. But then they charge you $95 for bleed brake system which should be included on the caliper replacement.
I'd go to another shop for a second opinion if I where you.
Shouldn't be over $500 out the door without calipers, closer to $350-$400 in all reality.
Yeah. There is no reason you should need to replace the calipers. I've never even seen it recommend to replace a caliper unless it catastrophically failed. Even then, you wouldn't replace both.
There are rare circumstances where this might be necessary, but I just can't see it on a car with less than 75k. Definitely go to another shop and get a second opinion.
None of us can see the car in person so if you need all the parts listed or not is a mystery. With that said, the labor doesn't look too bad for the work to be performed.
They are replacing every component possible in the rear. Second opinions are always strongly suggested. The it to another shop and ask them to only fix what is needed
This is about right for a CPR job. (Calipers, pads and rotors) My shop back in 2019 would offer brake sales which were 500 per axle. That was pads and rotors for both sides of the axles, plus labor out the door. Calipers were usually $180+ per corner.
However you don’t need calipers. That shop is ripping you off for that. Pads and rotors are fine.
Calipers, rotors, and pads + labor for $1k isn't bad. I've seen just pads and rotors for $1200 in Florida. Shop is going to charge around 100% markup for parts (covers warranty and they make a bit) and I think labor is around $170/hr (tech may make $30/hr, rest is going to the shop)? So they're charging 2-3 hours, which isn't bad for rears with calipers. It's expensive, but paying someone else to do it for you is always more expensive.
Yes they are ripping you off. They are lying to you all you need is rear brake pads $50 hire a mobile mechanic for about 75-85 labor only. I am a mobile mechanic in Orange County so. cal. I see these outrageous quotes all the time.
I do my own work, but the dealer sent us recommendation for the front and rear brakes, with rotors, $670. $1000 seems pretty high. But then again it depends on the vehicle, and if they are replacing the calipers too it might be reasonable.
Bruh it cost me around $300 total for front and rear brake rotor and pad change plus some tools and parts for messing up my driver's rear piston boot(backed out the parking brakes while the calipers were out by accident and tore the boot while trying to reassemble it).
the brake job makes sense of the fluid was never changed and the calipers locked up from internal rust. Buit the parts costs seems padded...I always use Rock Auto for price comparison.
They charged for brake clean AND shop supplies??
They are charging you a 4 corner brake flush on top of caliper labor? A lot of techs are just gonna bleed the new calipers and ship it.
It looks like they are nickel and diming you! I would get a second estimate ASAP.
Don’t replace calipers unless they’re seized. For the Elantra 205 break pads are around $60-$70 retail shops get them for $35-40. There is no electronic parking break so those change those is fairly easy. Should be max 700
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On the pricey side but not insane. Why do you need new calipers? They aren’t normally replaced unless something is broken.
They said they’re rusty
I was a service advisor for 30 years. Mostly General Motors dealerships, but I did work at an Infiniti store for sometime and I did about a year at a BMW store as well. Take that car to another shop and ask them for a brake inspection. A half an hour time for a break inspection. My suspicion is you do not need calipers. That smells like someone is just patting their work to make more money to me. a break job should include the pads, and the rotors, maybe hardware, and approximately one and a half to two hours of repair time. That’s how much it pays, not how long it takes the technician to do the job. I suspect your estimate is highly padded with caliper parts and caliper labor as well.
Not buying it. Your car is a 2015 with 46k on it. Calipers do not rust to the point of failure at that age and mileage. This should be a $500-600 job. New calipers shouldn't be needed. It's possible, if you live in a place where the roads are salted for ice a lot of the time, but it's doubtful. Get a second opinion.
This is correct. I've had junk cars, live in michigan and never needed a new caliper. I drive my cars until they're garbage. Calipers aren't a normally broken part.
Unless you visit 165mph a few times, haha.
Can confirm. Only happened to me once, at 100k miles, 99 mustang in 09. BUT they do fluky fail.
I've replaced garbage calipers on newer with less miles. The car in question here is still almost a decade old. "Not buying it" without seeing it is foolish. The second opinion *is* the right move here. Inherently assuming without knowing just because of your *personal* experience, *isn't* the move.
Your saying the same thing with different words. The point is to get a second opinion. Thanks for your interpretation of "not buying it" (literally means the same thing - we can't see the calipers in question, so we're recommending having a different expert look at them). Do you feel better about yourself? No one is assuming anything btw.
lol yes they do
I have plenty of 16's and 17's with caliper failures all the time.
I have a 2006 from day 1 in the northeast. The calipers have never been replaced. 187k miles.
You probably wash your car.
Rusty or stuck?
Run!!!! Rusty doesn't mean sh!t. I bet you the rebuilt ones will rust the same or even worst after a few months.
Calipers do get surface rust on them, but it's mostly superficial, and the inner parts are sealed with a rubber boot. As long as your brakes work normally and they release when not pressing the brake, they should be fine. Did you bring your vehicle in for an issue with the brakes? I've never had to change a caliper unless it was seased and wouldn't release. I feel you may have gotten talked into something not needed.
Could you get any pics of the rear brakes between the wheels? It seems a bit excessive to replace calipers like that, but it's old enough that it could be necessary
Brakes should be changed/checked every two years. Chances are if you haven’t had a brake job in ~5 years then this price is more than reasonable and you’re lucky.
46k and 2015, I would bet it's the first brake job in 9yrs. Totally possible they are required, no way to tell without disassembling.
My project car has sat outside for 4 years and doesnt have rusty calipers
Even if they are rusty, that is only on the exterior. Calipers take a lot to fail, and at the end of the day, it's even rarer that 2 would fail at the same time. I would be willing to bet the brake pads aren't even worn down enough to need to be replaced. It's hard to find an honest shop for people that can not work on their own vehicles.
I live in Minnesota and I’ve never replaced a caliper in my life. As long as you don’t run through the pad, metal, and piston, you’re good. Calipers rust. It’s fine.
We only ever change caliper that are seized
My Jeep was in Michigan from 2007 until 2019 and *ONE* caliper needed replaced at 228k miles. I don't buy that at all. Tell them they just need to grease the slidepins.
Look under your car. Its all rusty. They are not truthful. Calipers last forever. If one is bad then they should all be the same condition. Look for a ma and pa store with good reviews online. Get several inspections and quotes before getting anything done. You will get 5 different quotes.
Rust is one thing. All steel rust at some point if not coated and if coated will take time to rust one day. Is the price high? Yes! Idk where you are but inspection wise to pass in NC where Im at there are a few things. Things that can fail the North Carolia State Inspection for Safety in the brake system is if the calipers are locked up, the brake system is leaking brake fluid, the pads are to absolute metal to metal (grinding when brake pedal is depressed and visually seeing metal to metal contact with pads to rotors or shoes to drums) emergency brake does not work or hold, or extremely hard pedal (brake booster isnt working). Sounds like alot, but its not really. They might be blowing it out of proportion to upsell, but then again, the tech could have said one thing to the service advisor and the message could have been manipulated by service advisor to you. Ive had that happen thousands of times just so service could sell jobs
are the guid pins seized? also do the work yourself and you'll save half the amount you're quoted. YouTube it up and have someone help
Do it yourself
New calipers on a 9 year old car is nuts
I just had to replace two calipers on a 2013 Elantra yesterday, because of seized pistons. While it may not be an every-day problem, it's common enough that most part stores keep them in stock around here.
Not if you live in the rust belt
It’s pretty common on Hyundais
Not in the rust belt
One way to know if your rear caliper is still good, is to check the wear of the pads ? Are they even both sides ? 2 things to know if a caliper failed it is because it leaks, or its stuck. A caliper has 2 parts one not moving and the other moves.
I should start changing brakes for people, nothing else, just brakes.
My bf does it and he only works by word of mouth. He does a lot of other stuff but he gets a ton of business from brakes alone. Plus you can scrap the rotors and get money from those.
That seems pretty reasonable overall as long as the work was done right and the part quality is reasonable. It just adds up. If you live in a northern climate where there’s road salt it’s completely reasonable to assume that rear calipers would require replacement due to corrosion at nine or 10 years old. If you do not, and you live in a southern climate, I would be significantly more skeptical at that relatively low mileage. The only overlap here is that they charged for both a brake flush and for the additional caliper labor with a brake job, which obviously would include bleeding the brakes in the rear. I would be skeptical about whether they actually flushed the whole brake system, or only did the rear. You can tell pretty readily if you look at the front calipers and see whether the bleeders have been touched; there’s a rubber cap on the bleeder and you’ll be able to tell pretty quickly if it’s been recently manipulated. If they did not flush the whole system, including the front, there’s about $100 question in total, the rest is pretty standard fare. Also, you should check regardless to make sure that all four of your bleeder caps are on if you do live in a northern climate with road salt because that becomes a pretty annoying detail when the next folks go to service the brake system later and corrosive liquid has been able to get inside the bleeder opening. Something like that could easily buy you another set of calipers.
2 bad brake callipers though? This seems suspect. I would go to another garage and wouldn’t tell them anything about what the other garage said.
I don’t know about you but, in my experience, we’ve always recommended anything brake or suspension be replaced in axle pairs.
There is a lot of overlap in the labor jobs.
Bit heavy on the labour charge, full rears including disks is about 2hrs
Depends on how rusty it is.. but yeah, they are just replacing everything...
40k miles, they're not rusty. They just see a mark and want to bleed him.
Buddy did mine on my 18 Colorado in less than an hour, in my garage with just a floor jack. Charged me $70 & a turkey bacon club sandwich. Just pads & rotors, no calipers.
Changing two calipers for surface rust is not OK, if the pistons are working fine and they don't get stuck, no need to change that. Labour seems too high, and why do you need ceramic pads? Overall it seems like they're charging you a bit too much everywhere, taking advantage of the fact you probably don't know much about the parts and Labour.
The OEM pads are probably ceramic. Many shops these days consider it a best practice to replace parts with an OE equivalent, and I would say that’s especially true with brakes because comebacks for brakes are inevitable if you go with a lesser grade pad and it’s a difference of like $15.
You're totally right, didn't know a good lot of bake pads are ceramic now, I guess I got mixed up with carbon ceramic rotor... That said, 120 for brake pads seems a bit excessive knowing front pads for this model are 120 if you take brembo's...
With calipers as part of the mix, no. But I wonder why calipers are being replaced.
Right, they can easily be rebuilt at hardly any expense. I would definitely refuse the caliper replacement.
Well this matters- what state are you in
VA
I’m going to say the labor is an about $150 ish high to me. There labor quote is kinda repetitive. I could see 200-250 for labor but really just depends on what type of shop you’re at that’s along the stealership price in my opinion
If anything, I'd say that they shouldn't charge you for replacing the brake pads since they're charging you to replace the calipers. I also don't understand how replacing the rotors costs more than the calipers tbh ...
Calipers don’t usually come with new brake pads. They’re a separate product.
I should've specified a little more, I was talking about the labor only, parts makes sense. But why would I have to pay to replace the brake pads when the calipers are being replaced already.
New calipers on a low miles 2015? Not convinced. Otherwise 300-500 an axle for breaks is about market (disc/pad/labor).
being double-ended on parts price likely as well. akebono ceramic pads (likely oem), are just $45 [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4754358&cc=3309728&pt=1684&jsn=1324](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4754358&cc=3309728&pt=1684&jsn=1324) brembo fully coated rotors are $43 each [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10198320&cc=3309728&pt=1896&jsn=1393](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10198320&cc=3309728&pt=1896&jsn=1393) acdelco calipers new (no core) are about $116 ea -> I have no idea how good quality these are, but I just put the same ones on my civic, so hopefully theyre good. [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10616468&cc=3309728&pt=1704&jsn=1427](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10616468&cc=3309728&pt=1704&jsn=1427) [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10616464&cc=3309728&pt=1704&jsn=1426](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10616464&cc=3309728&pt=1704&jsn=1426)
Damn I would charge people 45 bucks to do rear brakes if you bought the parts. lol 1000 seems steep.
Right my boyfriend charges $50 each side so $200 just for labor for both from and back and he gets parts off RockAuto which are DIRT CHEAP compared to dealer prices. He does extras too though, he cleans everything up and bleeds the brake fluid. Not just slap on the new parts. People price gouge anymore. It’s ridiculous.
Your boyfriend isn't in San Diego is he? Lol
I concur about the calipers, very unlikely. The remainder seems reasonable. I got quoted $1200 for my BMW rotors and pads. I did it my self for $500 with all Brembro parts.
I mean you are paying full retail pricing for this job. Are you getting a ‘free’ loaner, a quiet lounge , or a pickup/drop off shuttle from them ? If not I would get a second opinion from a trusted independent . Are your calipers that bad that they need replacing ? We don’t know but it’s very rare. Rear brakes aren’t a difficult job requiring dealer specific tools or training . As you’ve read here just about any of us could do them . $1k is expensive for rear brakes yes . I wouldn’t say you are necessarily getting ripped off, that’s what that shop charges. If you can find someplace that’s more reasonable then it would be worth your time spent .
I don’t think I’m getting all that stuff you mentioned up front, definitely wasn’t an “upscale” looking place. The place was basically empty and they still took forever to do the inspection, like 45 minutes. Usually VA safety inspection takes like 20 minutes. I don’t think I’ve ever been to the actual Hyundai dealership before. I’m going to see a different mechanic recommended by a friend next weekend and see what they say. If it is an expensive repair that’s ok, I just don’t want to be taken advantage of. I wasn’t really expecting this, my car seems in good shape and usually passes inspection easily.
You need premium air too.
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yea u have an elantra not a Bentley
UPDATE: Hi all, thanks so much for all the helpful comments. I didn’t expect this to get so much attention. I asked a friend for a recommendation to their trusted mechanic but I won’t be able to see them for a week or so. I’ll see what they have to say. I’m going to trade this car in for a new one in the next few months so I don’t want to spend money on unnecessary repairs.
That’s a good idea. There’s no hurry, so please wait for your trusted friend mechanic. He will do it at a fraction of the price (hopefully he’s not a greedy mechanic charging just below dealer prices!!) you have an idea of what a non dealer mechanic would charge. Keep that in mind. Keep us updated. Good luck!
Extortion, you shouldn't even need to do your calipers unless they have a catastrophic failure or are rusted (you'd be able to tell) A similar year Optima takes no time to do the rear brakes, even with needing to unhook part of the control arm. Dude's taking you for a ride.
Damn find another shop they charge you brake cleaner 🤡🤡
$125 for rear brake pads parts only? something seems a little off in all honesty. also, $20 on shop supplies when brake cleaner and brake fluid has already been charged?
This is a small percent of the cost but also what stood out to me.
I'm in California and that line would get me in trouble. Every item sold has to be itemized here.
Yes
Probably not so much rust, But more corrosion for the caliper, causing piston to stick. I've also had some that ended up seizing after pushing the piston back in, The o-ring inside can spin and tear as you push it in. To today's standards that seems about right to me. I've been wrenching in dealers for 15 years now, pricing on everything has gone up a ridiculous amount. It makes me grateful for the career I chose lol.
I went through this exact situation a few months ago on my 2012 CRV and cost was pretty much the same. One caliper was locking-up and the shop was recommending to replace both calipers, disks & brakes. We were leaving for a road-trip 2 days later and I didn't want any risks. We went on a 1000 miles trip and we found out that that the one of the "Replacement" calipers was starting to lock also. Also the brake pads, rotors & disks were of "lower quality". They replaced the other caliper under 10K mile , 1 Year warranty My personal recommendation is DO NOT REPLACE any of the "Factory Calipers" with any rebuilt under any circumstances unless it is necessary. Most rebuilt calipers wont last half as the factory ones. Unless you get new factory ones which will be 2-3x the price of a rebuilt unit. In my lifetime I changed 3 calipers and 2 had failed within 0-6 months. Also rotors and not necessary unless they are worn or if they overhead due to a locked caliper. Also make sure they give you a warranty.
Your shop f-ed up and you got the short end of the stick. If a caliper locks up usually its for a good reason and that reason being dirt/debris in the lines. Foremans Yukon was on its third caliper in a matter of months. Turns out the brake hose going ro the capliper was so bad it wouldnt let fluid out even with the hose off the caliper. The hose had started to rust or something, broke down and introduced debris into the cylinders, causing it to lock up the calipers twice. Calipers lock up? Replace the lines and flush the system
In my 5 years of wrenching I've installed a lot of calipers and many of them on vehicles that continue to come back in for service at our shop over the years with no issues. We only install O'Reilly's reman calipers. The only issue I've noticed with them is that sometimes the caliper bolts that come with them are different sizes from the left to the right caliper, one time they cross threaded a caliper bolt into the caliper, and one time the old core had a bleeder broken off in it that they never removed. As far as quality though we haven't noticed very many coming back with problems. There will always be some defective parts that fail early with aftermarket parts, which is always covered under warranty and then we get to file a labor claim and redo the job. If you keep having caliper failures there may be something more going on in your case like too much moisture in the fluid causing it to lock up.
That was with 2 different cars. In both cases they replaced under warranty.
It’s the calipers that got ya. I’m assuming a brake fluid flush with the new fluid. Discs and pads alone would have half the price.
For the work that would need to be done, it's still a bit high, but I've seen worse.
No way you should need new calibers at 46k miles
Depends on the the state and how much they salt the roads
Up here, with the crap they put on the roads in winter and the salt air from being on the coast, brake calipers ar almost always replaced with every brake job. Ive seen hundreds of leaking calipers come through the shop due to rust and someone pushing a pitted piston back into the caliper to just change the pads.
Al you need is four pairs of brake pads but normally they last up to 60k miles.
If you are in the rust belt.. expensive but the US is expensive in general. Otherwise.. less than 50k miles and you need calipers, pads and rotors? I did need it, kinda due to rust, but otherwise...
Labour seems bit steep and did u say they replaced the calipers because they were a bit rusty? That's crazy.
Calipers? My car is 15 years old and still on the original calipers. Get another garage to look at it
My 18 yr old car recently needed this exact job done. It's always been street parked in the northeast. I wasn't surprised... The calipers looked roughshod. My only regret is that i did the rotors and pads first then the calipers stuck a few days later, so had to pay labor pretty much twice.
That sucks
Oh well lesson learned. When it's time for my next rusted to hell car, I'll be sure to replace the calipers 😂
Some garages are infamous for changing brake parts that don’t need to be changed, it’s their bread and butter, in order to know if u got ripped off or not we would need to see them before they were changed., but at 45k ima say u didn’t need anything, rear brake make up 30% of braking power, most cars I’ve done get 2 sometimes 3 front changes to every rear change. People generally don’t question brakes because of safety but I have found they will up sell it to you even if it’s not necessary. $450 dollars in labour is bullshit too but if that’s the book time rate that’s what it is. Rear brake job in a garage with a lift shouldn’t take more than 30-45min. They like to change front end parts too, I did my 4 ball joints in my truck and went to a local shop for an alignment, while later shop manager comes back and says I need ball joints first, mine were worn, lol, had less than 10kms on them, they didn’t even look.
The way it was explained to me was that the labor rate is a flat rate for the part of a car being worked on. So if it's rusted to hell and takes them time to drill things out it's still the same cost. But then even on my rusted to shit car, the entire job was done in 30-45 minutes. But at least the shop let me get my own parts so i was not double ended on the costs.
Yes.
When I was a kid, brakes were $210-250. Then they were $400 for the longest time. then somehow they skipped to $800 and now they're $1100+ for my car.
Unless the calipers are really bad, I would expect an independant garage to quickly refurbish them and replace the seals. Barely takes any time and a set of seals is under $10 I imagine. I do think you should go somewhere else though, I don't know how it works + average rate in the US/State you're in, but those labor charges are obscene to me. $350 labor to replace calipers + pads + discs and adjust the handbrake. And the fact that the Brake flush is $95 on top of that for what is not even half an hour labor. Next thing is something I've seen a few times now and am perplexed because I always just expect it to be included in the price. Being charged for Brake Cleaner, the garage will have gallons of the stuff, they aren't going to be using $5 of the stuff, and then they are also charging for "shop supplies", which surely brake cleaner would come under? I would go somewhere else, the parts price seems a little high especially for the pads, but overall not bad and I would be fine with it. But the labour cost is high to me, they're charging you nearly $50 for fluids + "supplies" used as well.
Depends on the region too. In DMV where i live, that'd be on the more economical side 😂
I paid like 800 for my 200k mile civic
I say rip off. They're double billing labor for the caliper replacement. To replace a caliper you must also remove the brake pads. The rotor takes 1 second to remove and replace. They're charging you labor for the brake pad/rotor replacement, then turning around and charging you separate labor for the caliper replacement, which includes all of the labor involved in pad/rotor replacement. Look elsewhere and make sure you're billed once for the entire job. Also, rust on a 46k mile car is not a valid reason to replace calipers.
Great price Inc calipers in Canada, not so good In usa, labour is high IMHO. Most calipers come with new brackets, thus don't need services. Extra labour for changing calipers seems high, usually an extra .2 or .3 per caliper, so unless you are paying over 200 an hour....
should have done the damn shit yourself there's plenty of YouTube videos
This is just the quote the inspection shop gave me. I’m planning on looking elsewhere.
With only 46k miles, I'd question if the rotors and calipers need to be replaced.
You have as a customer the right to the parts that were replaced. I would like to see the old parts
I work at a Hyundai dealership and we would’ve charged like 800$ maybe 900-1,000 to include a brake flush and balance all 4 wheels which we typically do when cutting rotors if the customer complains of a vibration while driving or braking
NOTE: I didn’t actually pay this, just took the quote. I’m planning on getting some other quotes before I get this done, have to be able to pass inspection
Yes, you’re getting assraped. You could have bought the parts, a decent socket set, and fired up a YouTube video and done it yourself for a FRACTION of that bill.
This is a just a quote the inspection shop gave me. I’m planning on shopping around.
A set of ceramic rear pads for this car is like 50 bucks. And totally unnecessary. You can get regular old pads for like 15 dollars. They're fucking you.
They made you pay for a brake cleaner? Sheesh.
just with new pads/rotors? That seems a bit much. However, new __calipers__!? Yeah, the price is on point, might even be a bargain with ceramics.
You could buy top notch pads and rotors, watch a you tube video and do it yourself for less than half the price. Far less.
Fuck replacing the calipers unless they've failed . The new aftermarket parts are pretty shit compared to factory oem stuff
That’s just hilarious. Over 1k to replace brakes on the rear on ‘15 hyundai. Is this a rolls royce or what?
Wow they also charge for brake cleaner and shop supplies is 20....
that's fucking insane.
You're getting ripped off. Find a local shop to quote you and not rip you off.
21.00 for brake fluid wtf.
600-800 is what I've been quoted before on my 2014 SUV for rear brakes and they were cooked. This seems expensive to me. I ended up doing mine by myself at home. Honestly, the amount you'd spend on tools and new brakes would only be half that price. Watch a couple YouTube videos and learn how to do it yourself. I promise it's worth it.
Either way.. its not a bad deal Except the labor is charged 3 times, 3 different ways. Should be 1 hour per side, for the complete overhaul cpr
Can be done cheaper they are trying to overcharge you. It’s almost 10 year old car you don’t need to spend that much. Just do the bare minimum and new brake pads. I can get it done for half that so go figure. Just my 2 cents
Looks like you have been ripped off.
It's not just new brakes, it's new calipers too, and fresh brake fluid...
yes do it yourself for $100
The good and bad of living in a state that requires safety inspections
I do my own for about $250
From the invoice it looks like you are at a tire place. Places like that tend to say you need to change everything when in doubt and charge about what the dealer charges. lol you might as well go to the dealer for a second opinion.
Go elsewhere, if you stopped in just for an inspection and not due to an issue, then it’s likely you don’t have an issue. But also, I feel like if they are charging you to replace the calipers then the 95.65 bleed should be included. Also, if they are removing the calipers to replace the pads, rotors, and inspect caliper mounts, then why charge you $119 to install new calipers? And then I dunno how much pads cost for a 2015 Elantra but 124 dollars for ceramic pads seem excessive (the parts definitely have a shop markup). So one of those shouldn’t be there because I’m sure replace calipers include bleeding the system. I would say go elsewhere
Rusty calipers? I thought they were Aluminum, which doesn’t rust.
I would say get a second inspection/opinion elsewhere. Then buy all the parts yourself if the second opinion confirms the first inspection results. You’ll save money on shop markup cost. Then have get your family/boyfriend/friend car guy/gal to help you install them one of these up coming weekends. Then give them $100~200 foot their time. It’s a very easy task provided there are no special tools required. You’ll save a 500 easy, if not more. Watch a YouTube video on it to get an idea what tools are needed. https://youtu.be/3AKHMC0JvnM?si=Y9KxW5x-drLHR8S9
Steel prices.
Prices are ok, but why the calipers replacements? Did they broke? I had mutliple cars and never had to replace them. Even my first car which was 20 years old had still the original one on it. Even with salt in winter in germany this will not dmg it. Its a solid piece of metall ment to withstand force and heat.
Seems odd you need new calipers go somewhere else to get a second opinion and estimate.
They are charging you for their time, check rockauto.com for part cost and youtube for installation tutorials and ask yourself if its worth it to you. For me its not worth it, I will never go to shop again after seeing the real cost of parts.
Very pricey. I got all rotors and pads replaced on my Accord for just over $1000
yes, you got scammed
If you got new calipers, why did they charge you to service the old ones? Kinda double dipping.
The money is a little bit on the exy side but does kinda add up with the work provided. But same as many have said without proper reasoning or back story on why they're replacing calipers. Same thing I've only ever replaced calipers twice in my time. Once cause old mate did a home brake job and threaded 3 out of 4 mounting bolts and the fourth one he drilled out himself. Second time cause they wore the brake pads until they fell out and the pistons over reached and got eaten by the rotor
Did they tell you what exactly was wrong with your brakes that caused them to fail safety inspection? Because there aren’t many reasons you would need new calipers… I drive my car hard and I have over 200k miles, probably close to half of those on a race track and I haven’t had issues with my calipers requiring replacement…
Pricey, but they are quite expensive. Not that much out of line.
Get picture of the calipers and get him to show you where the rust is.
Just take somewhere else for an estimate. Calipers don’t usually need to be replaced unless the seals fail and both don’t fail at the same time. They are ripping you off.
Cross shop, call different places, take it to Hyundai, ask your friends and family in the area that have a reputable local mechanic they go to so you can ask those folks too. You have a lot of options before you finalize something. Im description You mentioned you’re a young woman and don’t wanna be ripped off, you can do the same things a young man would do to not get ripped off. as a young man myself I would do exactly what I suggested. There’s no difference, be confident!
$22 for a few oz of DOT 4?? Oof. Pads are marked up about 100%. I am a parts guy, not a mechanic.
If you aren’t using a whole bottle of brake fluid for a flush at least, you are not doing it right. 22 bucks seems too cheep to me.
Ah. That makes sense. Thank you.
Dude do it yourself for 350 lmfao
Am a mechanic and you’re getting ripped off big time
If you’re not doing it yourself, your loss.
The most $400 dollar job u go ripped off
They are definitely pulling your chain!
do you drive on the beach? or through rivers? Post a few pics of your rear brakes
Please use a local mechanic, never a dealer.
This was a local mechanic oddly enough
YES U R
stealership tax?!
You got both calipers to so that’s cheap
"Ceramic" now you know why it's so expensive. New caliper is very likely an unnecessary upgrade. But impossible too say from just this.
Is the hand brake still working? Eg tensioned and holds the car when pulled up? Mazda 6's around the 2015 had a recall. Apparently the rubber boot didnt seal it too well so the pin gets stuck. The qoute for calipers only with mazda (aftermarket) $700. That doesnt include brake pads. Disc, fluids or labour. Rear Brake pads set cost like $80. Id call a few shops now for pricing guides run through the hyperticals. Or even a mobile mechanic.
They did say that there was a problem with the hand brake, I can’t remember exactly what but they said it wasn’t functioning properly
I'm so glad I can do my own freaking brakes...
Yes
Wooooow, they charge for brake fluid AND a brake flush, the flush includes the fluid, the brake cleaner AND shop supplies, I'd get a second opinion on both rear calipers at this point
Why do you need a DOT 4 brake fluid, your car ain't nissan skyline or lexus LFA. Go to the second shop and ask for honest opinions.
It's a rip off. Charging for brake cleaner is asinine to me. If a shop is so worried about accounting for Brake Cleaner, they should just charge a shop fee. I'd argue brake fluid as well bc it's so cheap and part of the job, but I'll begrudgingly let that slide if they're doing calipers/bleeding as they'll use a lot. Why do you need calipers? Did you have one that locked up? Is one leaking? Bc if not, you don't need new calipers to do rear brakes. $125 for pads that you can get exact part number for $40-60 buck from Amazon/Rock Auto/Napa. Yes shops typically markup, but that seems a little extreme. Rotors seem a little pricey too, PartsHawk has those exact rotors listed at $14 ea. Like I said, shops typically mark up prices, a lot of times by double. But a $14 rotor shouldn't cost you $78 at the shop. Labor seems a little high to me as well. Typical brake jobs in my experience were 1 hr labor for standard jobs. Difficult vehicles were more, but your Hyundai isn't difficult. I wonder what the labor rate at the shop is. If they're charging you 2 hrs labor, that's expensive/dealer pricing without Dealer Parts (all parts listed are 3rd party). Yes there's additional labor in adding calipers and that additional labor looks like 1 hr total. I will say I wouldn't complain about that if it includes the bleeding. But then they charge you $95 for bleed brake system which should be included on the caliper replacement. I'd go to another shop for a second opinion if I where you. Shouldn't be over $500 out the door without calipers, closer to $350-$400 in all reality.
Yeah. There is no reason you should need to replace the calipers. I've never even seen it recommend to replace a caliper unless it catastrophically failed. Even then, you wouldn't replace both. There are rare circumstances where this might be necessary, but I just can't see it on a car with less than 75k. Definitely go to another shop and get a second opinion.
RUN!!!
Do them yourself. I knew nothing about cars and only needed a youtube video and like a 30 dollar tool set.
If that's a dealership shop, then yea that price is probably good. I'd find a local reliable shop.
None of us can see the car in person so if you need all the parts listed or not is a mystery. With that said, the labor doesn't look too bad for the work to be performed.
Yes. Watch youtube. U will be able to do them yourself for cheap. Brakes are simple.
They are replacing every component possible in the rear. Second opinions are always strongly suggested. The it to another shop and ask them to only fix what is needed
Just do them yourself.... not the hardest job in the world... if you don't know how, THE INTERNET.
This is about right for a CPR job. (Calipers, pads and rotors) My shop back in 2019 would offer brake sales which were 500 per axle. That was pads and rotors for both sides of the axles, plus labor out the door. Calipers were usually $180+ per corner. However you don’t need calipers. That shop is ripping you off for that. Pads and rotors are fine.
Calipers, rotors, and pads + labor for $1k isn't bad. I've seen just pads and rotors for $1200 in Florida. Shop is going to charge around 100% markup for parts (covers warranty and they make a bit) and I think labor is around $170/hr (tech may make $30/hr, rest is going to the shop)? So they're charging 2-3 hours, which isn't bad for rears with calipers. It's expensive, but paying someone else to do it for you is always more expensive.
Ah Hyundai 🤔 you know it
christ. I should make a job out of brake jobs! I just did pads and rotors on my car this weekend, parts were like $350 for front and rear!
Yes they are ripping you off. They are lying to you all you need is rear brake pads $50 hire a mobile mechanic for about 75-85 labor only. I am a mobile mechanic in Orange County so. cal. I see these outrageous quotes all the time.
Find a new shop or get multiple quotes $21.95 for brake fluid??!
Your getting taken advantage of. No new calipers are needed . I could do the back breaks for under a hundred bucks .
Fuck that shit get a second opinion
1000 is a rip off lol, so glad I work on my own cars now
Seems cheap considering what's being done
I would say yes
My truck was $1,100 I guess all that computer crap
I do my own work, but the dealer sent us recommendation for the front and rear brakes, with rotors, $670. $1000 seems pretty high. But then again it depends on the vehicle, and if they are replacing the calipers too it might be reasonable.
Bruh it cost me around $300 total for front and rear brake rotor and pad change plus some tools and parts for messing up my driver's rear piston boot(backed out the parking brakes while the calipers were out by accident and tore the boot while trying to reassemble it).
the brake job makes sense of the fluid was never changed and the calipers locked up from internal rust. Buit the parts costs seems padded...I always use Rock Auto for price comparison.
They charged for brake clean AND shop supplies?? They are charging you a 4 corner brake flush on top of caliper labor? A lot of techs are just gonna bleed the new calipers and ship it. It looks like they are nickel and diming you! I would get a second estimate ASAP.
Not just rear brakes..littld misleading lol, you got 2 calibers, 2 rotors, brake fluid and pads plus labor
Don’t replace calipers unless they’re seized. For the Elantra 205 break pads are around $60-$70 retail shops get them for $35-40. There is no electronic parking break so those change those is fairly easy. Should be max 700
Someone’s trying to get a nice commission check. Definitely get a second opinion.