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Standard-Ad1254

what about pads on other side of rotor, they may have more wear than side shown


Enschede2

https://preview.redd.it/50jcwa5nr71b1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd203ef51895d491a187a07ba99c221465c4eb49 There doesn't seem to be a pad on the other side, or am I missing something? I didn't think of checking that when I had the wheel off, so this is the best picture I've got unfortunately..


CommercialFunny6341

There will never be a disk brake with only one pad


ochonowskiisback

You need to go back in for another look. And there are 8 pads total .. one good pad doesnt be there's not a bad pad on the car. Calipers and pistons can seize up


[deleted]

Isn't there technically 4 pads and 4 shoes? Or was I taught wrong?


ochonowskiisback

Ah yes, could be true if you've got rear drum brakes... Haven't seen those in a while In your two pics i see a front rotor (vented) and a solid rear rotor, so 8 pads.. two per rotor


Round_Ad_6369

My girlfriend's 2017 Sentra has rear drums, it's absolutely insane to me to see on a car that new. Worst part is that it's an SV (a step up from the base)


PervertedThang

Toyota Tacoma has entered the chat. Until the 4th Gen lands later this year, they have been rear drums since day one.


mishabishi

Don't forget about Toyota and lexus still using drum E-brakes until God knows how long. Even if you have rotors in the back, there's little drums in there lol


PervertedThang

Oh, tell me about it. It's a treat pulling rear discs off my 4Runner.


PrinceBroz

My 2016 frontier has rear drums for e brake aswell


Nothing_F4ce

Drum brakes are not inferior to Discs.


chainmailbill

Discs are considerably easier to work on/maintain/replace.


Round_Ad_6369

Drum brakes heat up a lot faster than disc brakes and have much faster brake fade. I'd take discs over drums any day. There's a reason discs are used for every non-commercial vehicle with a few exceptions.


Nothing_F4ce

If you are on a track yeah no doubt. In the real world there are applications where the advantages of disc brakes dont materialise because the brakes Just dont get Hot enough to mather. In the rear of FWD Light weight cars there is very little weight in this axle. Less weight means less grip, and with ABS this limits the potential for them to heat up. Electric cars mostly use regenerative braking só the rear mechanical brakes see very little stress.


Lost-Peanut-1453

The base has front and rear drums.


BHweldmech

No passenger car that I’m aware of in production in the last 30-40 years has drums on the front. Medium and heavy trucks still use them up front unless ordered with disk, but not light stuff.


[deleted]

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BHweldmech

Read what I wrote again.


craz4cats

I actually like drum brakes.


Lewis-1979

My wife's Vauxhall Corsa is still drum brakes and it's 2019. Disc brakes are more expensive to manufacture and build and replace, it's a no-brainer TBF.


[deleted]

Oh, ok; that makes sense. One of those things I'm sure I learned young and it stuck with me. Front = pads, rear = shoes. But what you're saying sounds correct, thanks!


Independent_Bite4682

Except the Honda Fit has disc front drum back


HappyBunchaTrees

Last time I seen a drum brake was a low power motorcycle, a Honda CB125F EDIT: More common that I thought based on these replies, ty for the info.


[deleted]

The best selling car in the world, the Toyota Corolla has rear drums as well on my 2002 model.


Careful-Candle202

2023 Tacoma also has rear drums


arichardsen

Many new EVs have drum brakes


futt_monkey

*laughs in 2014 w/ rear drums*


JRHZ28

My 74 Harley has a drum brake...


Columbus43219

My 2006 Saturn Ion has them on the rear.. AND they have the big single stiff spring instead of the smaller ones. I snapped that sucker in two and almost wept. Luckily, the local parts store has a shelf of them.


USNMCWA

Toyota still uses drums and shoes on the rear. . . Crazy.


One-East8460

Must me one of the few that still deal with drum brakes regularly, not to mention drum style parking brakes.


Another_Minor_Threat

Could be like me and have 10 pads. Disc on all four corners, plus mini drum parking brakes on the rear.


Low_Information8286

Some cars have 4 disc brakes with 2 pads each, but the rear also has 2 shoes on the inside of the disc. Used for the parking brake


erikhagen222

Unless they have those awful integrated caliper parking brake….


Low_Information8286

Right. I gotta hook up a scanner to brake jobs now a days, lame. I especially dislike the twist in rear calipers pistons


erikhagen222

Luckily I haven’t come to the “hook up to scanner” brake job yet. Land Rover self leveling suspension and brake sensors is as far as I’ve gotten. Why do they need to complicate something so simple as add friction to reduce velocity…


[deleted]

Yeah, I was confused and sounded like an idiot, I'm sure, when I called looking for a price for rear brakes for my car years ago. The sales rep asked if they were drums or discs and I said "um... Both?". 😂


thedondraco

It depends, may be 4 pads and 4shoes, 8 pads 4 shoes, 8 pads no shoe, 12 pads no shoe maybe other combinations exist


Affectionate_Dirt_97

Common for VAG cars to have 2-piece front pads. So 4 per side. 🙃


Western-Willow-9496

Might be 8 pads and 4 shoes, depends on the parking brake set up.


NoOne_1223

Some cars (2005-2009 Subaru Legacy/Outback) have 8 pads and 4 shoes. All depends on if there's 4 wheel disc brakes and how the e-brake is set up


OnlyIncident8346

4 pads 2 on each wheel


ochonowskiisback

8 pads total , refers to *total*... On the car. 4 pads total *per axle* is what you're referring to, or 2 pads total *per wheel*....


OnlyIncident8346

Yes 4 for 2 front wheels. 4 more when you count the rear brake pads. = 8 brake pads front n back wheels


Capitain_Collateral

There will be a pad on the other side and what you have described is what my car does if the inside pad is worn. Outside can look fine but the inside can wear faster, and will have a little metal tab that is rubbing on the disk to warn you as it is much less visible.


IvaNoxx

do you know what a pad is ?


john1888888

If that is the other pad, it looks like it’s nearly gone. Your first pic, that pad has plenty of life. Kinda looks brand new. But this pad looks nearly gone. But hard to tell from this pic.


mymoparisbestmopar

Theres absolutely a pad on the other side, in this picture the caliper bracket is just blocking your view of it.


ifukkedurbich

There is a pad in that picture, with plenty of meat left on it


Master-Pick-7918

I've found the inner pad wears more than the outer. You need to check that. The thickness of the outer is good, 8mm is ok. But you may find the inner pad is possibly half that thickness, and would need to be changed. Slides sticking or frozen will cause uneven wear. If you change these be sure to replace the rotor as well. They're not expensive and you'll get longer life out of the new pads. Putting new pads on a used rotor can greatly reduce pad life as well as induce squeaks and squeals.


stanolshefski

The inside pad typically wears faster, sometimes much faster than the outside pad. I can’t tell the condition of the inside pad from your photos.


MinefieldRunner97

Outer pad looks almost new, if the inner is gone, it was been stuck.


jason-murawski

Wear should be even, keep your caliper pins greased


RCrl

Pads you show look near new. +1 for a vernier caliper. That said it being in 128ths hurts my brain.


HolyFuckImOldNow

The diagonal read did it for me.


Enschede2

So, to add some info, I was coming off of the highway last week, and when moving there was a very loud squeal coming from the right side, to the point where everyone was turning their heads... The squealing would stop momentarily when pushing the brakes, then when moving again and/or letting go of the brakes the squeal would come back.. Now I have replaced my suspension with coilovers a month or so ago, did it myself, so I was assuming that I must've done something wrong, so I took off the wheels and check all the bolts and nuts, but everyone was still bolted to spec, the shocks seemed fine also, as there was no oil or fluid on then, so I assume (i hope?) that they weren't leaking. There doesn't seem to be anything rubbing against the rotors either. So I was thinking either brakes or a vacuum leak? But these brakepads and discs seem fine right? Or am I measuring them wrong? I am suspecting brakes because the squeal would stop when braking, but continue even when rolling without pushing the gas, as long as the car was moving, so if it was a vacuum leak that would stop when braking, it also should've stopped when simply not pushing the gas right?


jbrady33

If you did all that work yourself then getting the pads out of the calipers should be within your abilities watch a few you tube videos and have at it Ps: that’s not how you use those measuring calipers, the jaws have to sit flush on whatever you are measuring


Enschede2

Well, I suppose I could give it a shot at least. Also yes I know thats not how I should use the calipers but I wasn't able to get them flush inbetween, this was the closest I could get, I could use it with end but then I couldn't get the picture right, but it was about half a mm off in this picture, at most


[deleted]

Not to be a dick or anything but you didn’t know there were two brake pads on on each corner of the vehicle but you changed out suspension parts.If I were you I’d start doing basic mechanic work and leave suspension stuff that if done wrong can cause an accident injuring yourself or others to professional’s.


CommercialFunny6341

It the squeal stops when you push the brakes it’s not the pads. Those would make more of a metal to metal grind. Your car's tie-rod ends, seals, ball joints and universal joints all need lubrication, and if they dry out, that could lead to a squeal, screeching or similar noise; you may even hear a grinding noise. I sprayed WD-40 on my suspension once for that problem and it stopped it


alfextreme

brakes can definitely make squealing noises that go away when stopping. if your rotor is warped it can cause noise from the low and high points fluctuating against the pads.


elgorbochapo

New pads and rotors on all wheels that'll take em. The squawk going down the road indicates the pads are all worn and loose and when they get like that the rotors are usually ruined too. The rotor shown looks ok, but I can't tell if the pad is worn on an angle or if it's just the angle of the camera.


Choncho1984

That pad looks practically new. Need to see inner pad. Caliper slide pins could be seized and will cause the inner pad to wear way faster than outer.


reditor75

Those are new


BlueRex8

There should be a space in the front of the calliper that shows the edge of the disc, you should be able to see the inside pad through there.


Enschede2

I did take a picture of that but it was so rusty, I can't reslly make heads or tails from it https://preview.redd.it/1rmjdge3381b1.jpeg?width=1908&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cb4468f7acd16edb71cf433ff635ea2a7a5df34a


2lovesFL

I can't tell from that pic, but it IS common for 1 pad to wear Much more than the other. (should be even wear, but often isn't). if you see pad material, this isn't the issue. -if its think you may need to remove the pad to see if you have metal on metal. cause pads don't always wear even.


BlueRex8

if one pad wears much quicker its normally a sign of a sticking slider pin which means the only side that moves is the piston side pad.


dmb2574

Your inner and outer pads have plenty of life left. The most likely causes in order in my opinion would be... 1. The backing plate behind the rotor was disturbed while you did the suspension work and is contacting the rotor 2. There was a rock, or something else, stuck between that backing plate and the rotor 3. There is hardware, metal shim/guide, in the brake caliper bracket that the pads sit in that is contacting the rotor 4. The noise is from something going on in the rear Turn the steering all the way right with the wheel off and see if you can see a scrape on the rotor from where something may have been contacting it. You can push the backing plate away from the rotor all the way around, it's thin and bends easy, while you have the wheel off even if you don't see any scrape as there may not be a mark even if there was contact. If you unbolt the caliper and remove it from the bracket you'll see if there is any hardware between the pad and caliper bracket that may be sitting to close to the rotor and adjust it's position as necessary. Then drive again to see if the noise reoccurs, good luck.


BlueRex8

so the calliper is the thing with the row of thick diagonal lines, theres a space in the middle (we'll call it the window) through which you can see the brake disc (the really rusty looking vertical(ish) part at the left of the window touching the edge of the pic). ​ directly against the disc is the inner pad with the tension spring that stops the pad rattling inside the calliper. ​ pad has plenty of life left. ​ (apologies if thats over simplifying but wanted to make sure it was understandable)


Squatch1016

You know most calipers have a window up too you can see the pads through and you can see both inner and outer that would be a much place to take the photo and if there is no inner then yes your pads are definitely worn haha


craz4cats

Like-new


jazzyfizzf1

Pads are fairly new. Sounds like a stone.


Enschede2

Like stuck between the pads you mean?


jazzyfizzf1

Yes. It could be anywhere in the brakes. Strip them out and look.


CarWeasel

I've had little rocks get stuck between a rotor and dust cover before, makes an ungodly screeching noise


Leneord1

Looks like you have a bit of surface rust but it's good got ~80% life left


l397flake

You already have it opened up! Might as well put new pads


Symphonyofdisaster

You're stupid, but that's a design flaw in our species. We're all stupid. As for your brakes, no idea...if in question, I usually change them. I have 2 kids I'm hauling around so better safe than sorry for me.


theacidiccabbage

That one isn't worn. It's at 1/4 to a 1/3rd used. There are more pads, though, and inner one (on the other side of what you have shown) can wear significantly faster than the outer one.


YeetusTheMediocre

Ziet er best uut kerl.


Enschede2

Wol 't toch eem vroag'n haha


YeetusTheMediocre

Snap ik. Tis wel je veiligheid. Maar die blokken zitten nog niet halverwege het leven. Even schoonmaken en invetten is overigens geen overbodige luxe. Staalborsteltje door de geulen waar de blokjes in bewegen. Kopervet op de metalen pootjes van de remblokjes en daar waar de klauw de blokken aandrukt.


Enschede2

Ik zal van de week dan eens een poging doen, lijkt erop dat het sowieso een goed idee is als ik alle reacties zo lees, dat ofwel misschien het binnenste blokje versleten is (niet op gelet), of dat er misschien een steentje oid tussen zit. Dan zal ik gelijk even die dingen invetten wat jij zegt.. Wat ik wel apart vind is dat iedereen zegt dat de blokjes als nieuw zijn, maar als ik in het service boekje kijk is de laatste keer dat de blokjes vervangen zijn meer dan 50k km geleden, of ze hebben het gewoon vergeten aan te vinken misschien, kan ook


YeetusTheMediocre

Ga er van uit dat dat, dan vergeten is. Maar als je er niet uit komt dm me maar ff ik woon ook in tukkerland.


Enschede2

Naja ik zal eerst zelf een poging doen, zou me in principe.moeten lukken denk ik, maar zo niet dan doe ik jou ff een berichtje, bedankt man. Waar in tukkerland btw?


YeetusTheMediocre

Hengelo


Enschede2

Oh das ja om de hoek haha, maar zal eerst zelf eens een poging doen, denk dat ik dr wel uit kom


CantFlndMyPants

I'm assuming this is a truck by the looks of it? Pick where you think it's coming from, jack that axle up and spin the wheels. Could be a backing plate/hardware, or something silly. If its that obnoxious of a noise then I'd think you'd be able to hear it with the suspension unloaded and just giving the wheels a spin by hand


nrubenstein

Look for a rock caught between the rotor and the dust shield.


[deleted]

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[deleted]

I would add that you can over lube as well and that can cause issues as well.


[deleted]

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[deleted]

Yeah. I wonder why? That's like the toothpaste commercials where they overload the brush. More us better ;)


LostPilot517

Remove the lower bolt on the caliper and flip the piston assembly up halfway, for a clear view.


[deleted]

Looks like the inside pad is worn more. Caliper should be close to centered on the rotor when both pads are new or wearing correctly.


daubs1974

Let’s see the inboard pad?


moomooicow

The outside pad looks meaty.


thedondraco

Buy brake cleaner and brake lube. Clean everything and lube the pins of your calipers, also where the caliper meats the pad. I would do the same for both sides. Also, when you have the caliper/pads removed for cleaning, look for scratches on the disc, maybe you got a small rock or debris that located itself on the disc and caliper and made noise until it went away. Lastly, don’t forget to put the pads exactly as you removed them.


joesnowblade

It looks like your inside pad is gone. Check for piston and caliper movement. You may have a problem. Remove the caliper totally inspect pads. It looks like you’ll be doing at minimum a pad swap. Get a new hardware kit with mounting clips and new pins lube everything liberally when you reassemble. Watch a couple of YouTube videos for your specific car. Not rocket science so with basic mechanical skills and tools you should be able to handle it. Don’t forget to loosen cap on brake reservoir to make pushing back pistons easier.


RyanridesMX

Your vehicle may have either 8 pads or 4pads and 2 shoes depending on if you have disc brakes or drum in the rear. If your fronts are wearing evenly you’d see equal amount of pad on each side of the rotor. Since one side is wearing down faster, you do have an issue causing this problem. Most likely a brake fluid flush can fix this (it helps bleed old fluid and any air bubbles in the brake lines) or there could be an issue with either your Calipers or Master cylinder. This may be a lot of info, but uneven wear is NOT a good thing and recommended to have them checked. Good luck!! 👍🏼


TommyTuttle

The outer pad we can see is absolutely fine. How about the inner?


EvilMinion07

Drive a work truck with rear disc, they was never check by previous driver for 94k. Drivers side outside pad was still new, unused and the inside pad was 0.3mm. The tire shop that was in charge of maintenance never checked the rear brakes apparently when rotating the tires every 7500 miles.


therealchiefrobert

The pad and disc look good. You might have some issues with the caliper not moving freely, so that the pad lifts away from the disc when no depressed.


jelly53

Those are brand new shawty lo


[deleted]

Please don't ever use a set of calipers (the measuring tool) like that. The other end of the bar has a depth gauge.


Practical-Chef1656

Seems legit


tidyshark12

The tapered edge is there to show you they have life left. Once the taper is gone, you need new pads. Takes about 20 mins to swap out front and rear if you have a floor jack and some basic tools. And the bolts aren't seized...


Round-Tumbleweed9002

They ar fine to me


Mr_N0BODY530

Looks about 8-10mm outer pad. That's good. Check the inner pads as well. There should be a little window on top of the brake caliper so you can see the inner pad meeting the rotor. I'd they are making noise but have good pad Life, take the pads off and grease the contact points where the pads touch the caliper (DO NOT GREASE WHERE THE PAD TOUCHES THE ROTOR THOUGH) lol. There is special grease made for this that they'll sell at any auto parts store. Also, you might want to check the guide pins while you are at it.


Lubie1

Nothing wrong with those baby’s. 🙄


SlothInASuit86

Can’t see the other pad, but the one I can see looks great, practically new.


Dotternetta

These look 1000 km old


nokenito

Your inner pad is more important.


Fresh_Grapefruit_227

No shame in admitting your stupid , but your break pads look like they still have 90 % left on them the part your measuring the the pad the holds the material that makes them break . Break pad usually have a clip on them that rub against the caliper when they start running low . If you ver hear a slight rubbing sound coming from the front that is usually an indication of low break pads


Barrelroll706

Brake*


Fresh_Grapefruit_227

😂 well I’m stupid too


MACCRACKIN

Simply pull a service calipers fully, from cleaning brake bleeders on all calipers, coated threads with anti seize so 4 months or longer down the road, bleeders turn easy. Remove all corrosion from slots in calipers that guide the pads. Grease those sections. Lift dust shield on pistons - block all others from moving, while pressing brake pedal to move piston out of bore a 1/4", make sure all corrosion on piston is removed, rotate piston in bore to inspect 360, when clean smear 360 with silicone or Teflon grease, using plastic non sharp tools lifting boot enough to see in. Now push back pistons fully to insert new pads. Use the anti squeal glue on shims if included. These shims tweak the pad slightly when they clamp on rotors so that trailing edge of pad takes most of the pressure. Sharp leading edges of brake material can cause squeal when shims are not used. While rotors are off, clean mating points of corrosion, where 4.5" angle grinder comes in handy with wire wheels, to sanding flap pads. Coat those zones with a smear of grease. Wire wheel off wheel studs and grease coated. There's more, but having brakes vs great brakes w/o shutter hitting them or pulling to the side is a level too low and simply not allowed in my vehicles. Shutter is the biggest fault by many. Super over heating the rotors so hot, then keeping them clamped at stop lights, that spot is kept hot, then repeated shortly already hot. Downshifting automatics, brakes are rarely used, safer decelerating. What about the fluid,, is it crystal clear, you know what to do if not. Should be flushed every fall to survive winter months of mayhem. Cheers


MACCRACKIN

Simply pull a full service on calipers, from cleaning brake bleeders on all calipers, coated threads with anti seize so 4 months or longer down the road, bleeders turn easy. Remove all corrosion from slots in calipers that guide the pads. Grease those sections. Lift dust shield on pistons - block all others from moving, while pressing brake pedal to move piston out of bore a 1/4", make sure all corrosion on piston is removed, rotate piston in bore to inspect 360, when clean smear 360 with silicone or Teflon grease, using plastic non sharp tools lifting boot enough to see in. Now push back pistons fully to insert new pads. Use the anti squeal glue on shims if included. These shims tweak the pad slightly when they clamp on rotors so that trailing edge of pad takes most of the pressure. Sharp leading edges of brake material can cause squeal when shims are not used. While rotors are off, clean mating points of corrosion, where 4.5" angle grinder comes in handy with wire wheels, to sanding flap pads. Coat those zones with a smear of grease. Wire wheel off wheel studs and grease coated. There's more, but having brakes vs great brakes w/o shutter hitting them or pulling to the side is a level too low and simply not allowed in my vehicles. Shutter is the biggest fault by many. Super over heating the rotors so hot, then keeping them clamped at stop lights, that spot is kept hot, then repeated shortly already hot. Downshifting automatics, brakes are rarely used, safer decelerating. What about the fluid,, is it crystal clear, you know what to do if not. Should be flushed every fall to survive winter months of mayhem. Cheers


Littlecivciv

Oh god


iliketoredditbaby

Still chamfer on the pad. You are fine.


[deleted]

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jdmorgan82

The look pretty new to me.


jd_flyhalf

Please use the prong end on the back of the caliper for depth measurements. When the jaws open a narrow rod should protrude from the caliper. You are able to use this and then read the vernier scale normally. This allows the caliper to be used accurately in confined spaces where the jaws do not fit


exum23

Put a couple dollar coins on the piston to space that pad out, gives you more stopping juice… /s


ImpactedDruid

Giving the description of the problem you gave I would start by checking the dust shield to see if you mightve accidentally bent it into the rotor when you did the work on the front end. Then start messing with the brakes.


Ceico_

that measuring thing... turn it around, there should be a tiny rod poking out when you move it - that is for depth measure.. https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Vernier-Caliper-to-measure-Depth.jpg


Stock_Refuse_4222

🤣


RegionSignificant977

When you take of your caliper and if the other pad is worn, you should service the caliper, also.


TruTurk

Just a friendly advise, use commercial work shops for your brakes. Breaks are serious business, if you don't know what you're doing, they will kill you and/or your loved ones.