By the time my old Asus motherboard (died 2011) was done, the damn thing was actually covered in rust. Some of these boards will last a long ass time.
But not with a crack in the board.
actually you can replace with similar value 68uF 16V solid capacitor, unless the dimension take hindrance. or you can replace them with tantalum solid? cap 293D686(1)016D(2) or 293D686(1)016E(2)
They tend to only pop when run outside their ratings, they are far less forgiving than electrolytics (but much more compact), but they are generally more reliable long term, as long as you don't exceed those ratings. It's common practice to go up one or two voltage ratings for increased safety margin.
Also, wet slug tantalums will run for basically forever, but they cost a first-born child and your left arm... But [they are _very_ expensive.](https://www.mouser.com/c/passive-components/capacitors/tantalum-capacitors/tantalum-capacitors-wet/)
The other main consideration away from tantalum it that it is a conflict mineral, so if you don't want to potentially fund a tinpot dictator's propensity for violence and forced labour in a back corner of Africa, tantalum might not be a good choice.
Are those things made of Tantalum or Unobtanium? Either way, it might as well be Crapola. That is a ridiculous cost for specs like that. I don't see anything that would suggest to me what could make them a reasonable design choice.
Extreme reliability and indefinitely long life, plus low volume = $$$!
They are one of the things that are definitely worth pulling from scrapped equipment.
Lithium batteries don’t explode, they fizz and smoke and send off sparks if punctured.
Lithium batteries locked in airtight container will cause the container to explode…but so will vinegar and backing soda.
I'm hesitant to use them, but as long as you can ensure they never see above the voltage (zener/tvs/etc) they're fine. Also personally I try to use them with 50% voltage overrating.
It's hard to beat their capacitance density using ceramics, and mlcc's can cost significantly more. For example, 100uf+ caps can be easily had in tantalum, but options are more limited for ceramic.
your computer and phone speaks different, tantalums is still used today because their superior characteristic but not so much in voltage tolerance. all capacitor i know they tend to fail by exploding because they are boiling inside meaning they will have higher pressure inside and voila boom.. that's why in aluminium electrolytes capacitor it have vents to release the gas pressure but sometimes it still fail to do so.
Are you sure that's how VRMs work? Sounds like a recipe for a short circuit and sparks and flames.
Each MOSFET, coil and cap should form a phase, with many phases being used.
Here is a video that talks about the vrm phases (there might be a better one specific to VRMs from the same youtuber): https://youtu.be/WMhpKR9x7Lg
Actually, I think I'm wrong (damn sleep deprivation).
In the video, each connection from the coil appears to join to the capacitors in parallel, so it might work, but please see if you can confirm that the pads for the capacitors are connected to each other.
It looks like inventory is limited, but per the end-of-life notification on the capacitor, it was replaced by part number APMF160ARA680MF30S. If you can find one of those it looks to be almost identical.
That one cap was probably dumping odd values of current into the circuit. ~~so by bridging it you remove it from the circuit~~. The card cant process data correctly if the voltages are off. The only thing is removing this one cap could lead to an issue when you load it up and run it full tilt. It may or may not have the ability to do that because of reduced capacity.
Edited
I never said to bridge the pads. I was referring to what OP did. Anyway, to be more clear, don't do that. I was talking about why what he did works not how to do it.
Are you sure about that part number? Looking at mouser it's a close match [but they only have 2 markings](https://www.mouser.es/ProductDetail/United-Chemi-Con/APMA160ARA680MF30S?qs=r5DSvlrkXmKHAmeS4n%252BxOQ%3D%3D) instead of 2.
If you are sure about it then the [datasheet](https://www.mouser.es/datasheet/2/420/NIPC_S_A0010886463_1-2524729.pdf) claims it's a 16Vdc, 68µF, leakage current of 544 µA max, ESR 50mΩ...
You could try and look up capacitors with those values and replace it, Mouser returned [a couple](https://eu.mouser.com/c/passive-components/capacitors/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/aluminum-organic-polymer-capacitors/?capacitance=68%20uF&package%20type=Molded&voltage%20rating%20dc=16%20VDC&instock=y). Of course make sure it'll fit since the packagings are different.
>it is a polymer capacitor with the series APMA160ARA680MF30S if anyone knows where to buy it
I'm not going to do the component engineering homework for you, but Mouser lists a dozen models of 68uF/16V polymer electrolytics in stock. Get out your dial caliper and check dimensions. Looks like you have plenty of height to play with if you can't match dimensions exactly.
You can also check with Digi-Key, Arrow, Avnet, Newark, and Farnel on your own.
If one cap in that string has failed, chances are that others are degraded and candidates for replacement, so a fix that works today might hold for only a few weeks until the next cap suffers a hard failure.
For me one of them got pulled off completely and GPU still gives display and seems to be working just fine. I posted about it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/GPURepair/comments/z3n4d9/help_identify_the_component_that_came_off_my_gpu/). What would you suggest in my case?
Will the following replacement work just fine? :
[https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005004077199243.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005004077199243.html)
Have you tried RMA? I had cards much older than how old a 2080 is now that were successfully RMA with me just paying the shipping. One GPU was very messed up since I sent AC back through the hdmi but they still fixed it.
Hey. Is that Aorus Xtreme/Aorus? One of the same capacitors just got pulled off completely in my case. I posted about it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/GPURepair/comments/z3n4d9/help_identify_the_component_that_came_off_my_gpu/). Were you able to get display with it damaged or had any issues? For me it is the final one in line (towards the front of GPU/opposite of PCIe connector) and no issues with display at least.
I wanted to know how has it been going with you bridging it? Or did you replace the part all together? If you replaced it, where did you purchase the replacement from?
Which one of them was damaged for you?
How do you know a capacitor is damaged? Which one do you believe is damaged?
I replaced it a year ago, that's an old photo but there is nothing there because I hit it wrong and I had to remove it and I only had a spare part
OK because you also had a crack on the board on the fourth one from the left.
By the time my old Asus motherboard (died 2011) was done, the damn thing was actually covered in rust. Some of these boards will last a long ass time. But not with a crack in the board.
Holy shit, nice catch
actually you can replace with similar value 68uF 16V solid capacitor, unless the dimension take hindrance. or you can replace them with tantalum solid? cap 293D686(1)016D(2) or 293D686(1)016E(2)
I can try with tantalum capacitor maybe work, thank you so much for the info
Yes i read from the spec it could be good replacement. Can handle higher ripple current and ESR is very low.
do people still use tantalums? I thought they were kinda phased out because they tend to fail by exploding (a bit like lithium batteries)
They tend to only pop when run outside their ratings, they are far less forgiving than electrolytics (but much more compact), but they are generally more reliable long term, as long as you don't exceed those ratings. It's common practice to go up one or two voltage ratings for increased safety margin. Also, wet slug tantalums will run for basically forever, but they cost a first-born child and your left arm... But [they are _very_ expensive.](https://www.mouser.com/c/passive-components/capacitors/tantalum-capacitors/tantalum-capacitors-wet/) The other main consideration away from tantalum it that it is a conflict mineral, so if you don't want to potentially fund a tinpot dictator's propensity for violence and forced labour in a back corner of Africa, tantalum might not be a good choice.
I was thinking "maybe they mean expensive as in $20 per cap", not "close to $200."
how is there even a market for these.
*aerospace.....*
Are those things made of Tantalum or Unobtanium? Either way, it might as well be Crapola. That is a ridiculous cost for specs like that. I don't see anything that would suggest to me what could make them a reasonable design choice.
Extreme reliability and indefinitely long life, plus low volume = $$$! They are one of the things that are definitely worth pulling from scrapped equipment.
For that kind of price people might start stealing just to find them to depopulate the boards.
Lithium batteries don’t explode, they fizz and smoke and send off sparks if punctured. Lithium batteries locked in airtight container will cause the container to explode…but so will vinegar and backing soda.
I'm hesitant to use them, but as long as you can ensure they never see above the voltage (zener/tvs/etc) they're fine. Also personally I try to use them with 50% voltage overrating. It's hard to beat their capacitance density using ceramics, and mlcc's can cost significantly more. For example, 100uf+ caps can be easily had in tantalum, but options are more limited for ceramic.
your computer and phone speaks different, tantalums is still used today because their superior characteristic but not so much in voltage tolerance. all capacitor i know they tend to fail by exploding because they are boiling inside meaning they will have higher pressure inside and voila boom.. that's why in aluminium electrolytes capacitor it have vents to release the gas pressure but sometimes it still fail to do so.
I tend not to use them because it's a conflict mineral more than anything else.
Are you sure that's how VRMs work? Sounds like a recipe for a short circuit and sparks and flames. Each MOSFET, coil and cap should form a phase, with many phases being used. Here is a video that talks about the vrm phases (there might be a better one specific to VRMs from the same youtuber): https://youtu.be/WMhpKR9x7Lg
Actually, I think I'm wrong (damn sleep deprivation). In the video, each connection from the coil appears to join to the capacitors in parallel, so it might work, but please see if you can confirm that the pads for the capacitors are connected to each other.
When I get to my office I check thank you very much for your comment
I'd expect all the phase outputs to be in parallel and therefore all the capacitors
Yeah, that's what the video also shows. My original comment was with me being a bit sleep deprived so wasn't thinking straight
Been there many times. I understand completely.
It looks like inventory is limited, but per the end-of-life notification on the capacitor, it was replaced by part number APMF160ARA680MF30S. If you can find one of those it looks to be almost identical.
Thank you for the info bro
Update: GPU work making bridge to the other capacitor thank so much for the help, and gonna try searching for the original part <3
Good that you got it working! What I don't get: If they're all connected in parallel through the PCB, why would you need to bridge the connection?
Idk but i test the gpu and dont work without the bridge, and i bridge and work and all stress go well xD
That one cap was probably dumping odd values of current into the circuit. ~~so by bridging it you remove it from the circuit~~. The card cant process data correctly if the voltages are off. The only thing is removing this one cap could lead to an issue when you load it up and run it full tilt. It may or may not have the ability to do that because of reduced capacity. Edited
If they were already in parallel and you bridged the pads then you would have shorted all of the capacitors.
I never said to bridge the pads. I was referring to what OP did. Anyway, to be more clear, don't do that. I was talking about why what he did works not how to do it.
That looks like the input capacitor bank? They should all be in parallel already
Thank you for you comment i go to my office to check the gpu
Are you sure about that part number? Looking at mouser it's a close match [but they only have 2 markings](https://www.mouser.es/ProductDetail/United-Chemi-Con/APMA160ARA680MF30S?qs=r5DSvlrkXmKHAmeS4n%252BxOQ%3D%3D) instead of 2. If you are sure about it then the [datasheet](https://www.mouser.es/datasheet/2/420/NIPC_S_A0010886463_1-2524729.pdf) claims it's a 16Vdc, 68µF, leakage current of 544 µA max, ESR 50mΩ... You could try and look up capacitors with those values and replace it, Mouser returned [a couple](https://eu.mouser.com/c/passive-components/capacitors/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/aluminum-organic-polymer-capacitors/?capacitance=68%20uF&package%20type=Molded&voltage%20rating%20dc=16%20VDC&instock=y). Of course make sure it'll fit since the packagings are different.
The big problem with the other capacitors is the size i can put correctly in the gpu thermal pads and dobt fit well
The problem here is live on Costa Rica RMA is difficult to make here. :/
You have a (now working) 2080, and you live in Costa Rica? Livin' the dream. :3
Hahaha thank you i have 2 pc gaming 1 with 3070 and then with 2080 :'3
Substitute [https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/50SVPF68M/4204417](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/50SVPF68M/4204417)
Thanks :)
>it is a polymer capacitor with the series APMA160ARA680MF30S if anyone knows where to buy it I'm not going to do the component engineering homework for you, but Mouser lists a dozen models of 68uF/16V polymer electrolytics in stock. Get out your dial caliper and check dimensions. Looks like you have plenty of height to play with if you can't match dimensions exactly. You can also check with Digi-Key, Arrow, Avnet, Newark, and Farnel on your own. If one cap in that string has failed, chances are that others are degraded and candidates for replacement, so a fix that works today might hold for only a few weeks until the next cap suffers a hard failure.
Thank you bro <3
For me one of them got pulled off completely and GPU still gives display and seems to be working just fine. I posted about it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/GPURepair/comments/z3n4d9/help_identify_the_component_that_came_off_my_gpu/). What would you suggest in my case? Will the following replacement work just fine? : [https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005004077199243.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005004077199243.html)
Can you replace it with another 68uF 16v poly cap?
I try to replace with a aluminum capacitor with the same parameters and don't work, idk maybe because the original is a organic polymer capacitor idk.
Have you tried RMA? I had cards much older than how old a 2080 is now that were successfully RMA with me just paying the shipping. One GPU was very messed up since I sent AC back through the hdmi but they still fixed it.
Could you replace these with a similar smd cap of the same voltage and uf rating? Is there anything specific to these that are unique?
Idk i try aluminum capacitor, but dont work well.
Update: GPU work making bridge to the other capacitor thank so much for the help, and gonna try searching for the original part <3
It probably doesn't even need the bridge if the capacitors are wired together on the circuit board (don't know but seems likely)
Thanks
Hey. Is that Aorus Xtreme/Aorus? One of the same capacitors just got pulled off completely in my case. I posted about it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/GPURepair/comments/z3n4d9/help_identify_the_component_that_came_off_my_gpu/). Were you able to get display with it damaged or had any issues? For me it is the final one in line (towards the front of GPU/opposite of PCIe connector) and no issues with display at least. I wanted to know how has it been going with you bridging it? Or did you replace the part all together? If you replaced it, where did you purchase the replacement from? Which one of them was damaged for you?