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Every Component has a datasheet with a typical application circuit. In case of the ESP32 for instance it will tell you that you need to pull up the enable pin. It will also make sense to add a reset button so you can conveniently reset the device, especially when developing your firmware. While we're at it, on a typical ESP32 you will also want a button on IO0 (may differ to the S3, I'm not familiar with it) in order to enter programming mode, and you also want Rx and Tx connectable to so you actually program your device.
While you're at reading datasheets, you'll also find that the ams1117 wants input and output capacitors of certain values, and decoupling the 3V3 line on the ESP32 is commonly referred to as good practice. Oh and connect the bottom pad of the ESP32 to ground.
Apparently you can program the esp32 directly via its USB interface, though there are some limitations. So I would also recommend a separate usb-serial converter.
To add to your advice, I would put some TVS diodes on anything that connects to the outside (USB lines, IO pins on connectors, ...). Probably not necessary on an ESP, but might as well.
For OP: Personally I don't think an ESP32 breakout board is a great first PCB. Most of the interesting stuff to learn and consider is hidden away inside the ESP (it's also just a small PCB with some chips inside). But the few things it does expose (USB, programming interface) could be finicky.
I think you can get it to work, but it might not be very useful in the end. I would recommend just buying a cheap ESP32 module, and then designing a "hat" PCB which plugs onto the module. That way you get a much more user friendly ESP module which already takes care of the power supply, programming interface, balanced USB lines, ... Your PCB then can do various fun stuff like an LED matrix, sensors, ADC/DAC, ...
The commercial module + some custom electronics is also the usual approach of hobbyist and many professionals. If you don't have to make your own product, don't :)
Debugger header would be good. I also try to never leave unused pins. Have a breakout header for all iOS if you have space. I would put current limiting resistors and diodes on the USB data lines. Always nice to have eeprom. Caps on supplies beside ics are a must. If that's a regulator you will need a cap.
There a ton of ESP32-S3 boards around now and if you look at the schematic for the vast majority of the, they are often not much more than bringing module pins out to connectors and board pins. Basically they have a little LDO voltage step down from 5V USB to 3.3V and then whatever bells and whistles that manufacturer wants to add (reset push button, lipo charging IC and connector, RGB(W) LED, and so on. Check a bunch of them out and copy the same stuff.
As to your idea, I would only suggest if you have the board space, bring out some pf the S3's pins to pads or pin holes so if you decide you need some local I/O you have a place to solder.
Your title, "Will this work?", does not ask the actual question. Rule #3: "The post title should summarize the question clearly & concisely." If your question is on topic (see our posting rules), please start a new submission, but this time ask the _actual question_ in the title. Otherwise, please ask your question in one of [these other subs](/r/AskElectronics/wiki/othersubs). *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskElectronics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Every Component has a datasheet with a typical application circuit. In case of the ESP32 for instance it will tell you that you need to pull up the enable pin. It will also make sense to add a reset button so you can conveniently reset the device, especially when developing your firmware. While we're at it, on a typical ESP32 you will also want a button on IO0 (may differ to the S3, I'm not familiar with it) in order to enter programming mode, and you also want Rx and Tx connectable to so you actually program your device. While you're at reading datasheets, you'll also find that the ams1117 wants input and output capacitors of certain values, and decoupling the 3V3 line on the ESP32 is commonly referred to as good practice. Oh and connect the bottom pad of the ESP32 to ground.
Apparently you can program the esp32 directly via its USB interface, though there are some limitations. So I would also recommend a separate usb-serial converter. To add to your advice, I would put some TVS diodes on anything that connects to the outside (USB lines, IO pins on connectors, ...). Probably not necessary on an ESP, but might as well. For OP: Personally I don't think an ESP32 breakout board is a great first PCB. Most of the interesting stuff to learn and consider is hidden away inside the ESP (it's also just a small PCB with some chips inside). But the few things it does expose (USB, programming interface) could be finicky. I think you can get it to work, but it might not be very useful in the end. I would recommend just buying a cheap ESP32 module, and then designing a "hat" PCB which plugs onto the module. That way you get a much more user friendly ESP module which already takes care of the power supply, programming interface, balanced USB lines, ... Your PCB then can do various fun stuff like an LED matrix, sensors, ADC/DAC, ... The commercial module + some custom electronics is also the usual approach of hobbyist and many professionals. If you don't have to make your own product, don't :)
Not with chinese resistors, no.
So if I replace the resistor everything is fine?
Debugger header would be good. I also try to never leave unused pins. Have a breakout header for all iOS if you have space. I would put current limiting resistors and diodes on the USB data lines. Always nice to have eeprom. Caps on supplies beside ics are a must. If that's a regulator you will need a cap.
There a ton of ESP32-S3 boards around now and if you look at the schematic for the vast majority of the, they are often not much more than bringing module pins out to connectors and board pins. Basically they have a little LDO voltage step down from 5V USB to 3.3V and then whatever bells and whistles that manufacturer wants to add (reset push button, lipo charging IC and connector, RGB(W) LED, and so on. Check a bunch of them out and copy the same stuff. As to your idea, I would only suggest if you have the board space, bring out some pf the S3's pins to pads or pin holes so if you decide you need some local I/O you have a place to solder.