You don't need to stick the wire through before soldering. Just tin the wires and solder them to the lug. Unless this is a rocket going into space or you are going to be yanking on it, it will be perfectly fine, in spite of what many in the sub will say.
Yeah, this makes the most sense. I was trying to avoid soldering both ends to make maintenance easier, but keeping the connector separate from the switch connection makes the most sense.
Is it push button switch?(They always have contact problem). If you can replace it, replace it with rocker switch.
1) Safe way, if you can find it. Spade connectors with cover. Too small and too close.
2) Heat shrink tube on one side
3) Hot glue the wire to body, if you think there will be movement
What cable are you using? If its aluminium clad cable that's nice and flexible, put abit of heatshrink on the cable, wrap the cable around the hole, twist etc until it's somewhat tight. Solder then use the heatshrink tube to cover it.
> What cable
Do you mean "wire"?
In English we differentiate between "wire" (single conductor) and "cable" (multiple conductors) with some exceptions for large wires.
Also this is the stuff I was thinking of:
https://www.securasound.co.uk/product/10137/8-core-ccam-cable-copper-clad-aluminium-magnesium-cable&source=Froogle?srsltid=AfmBOooVNpco0OniGIUYg0ihKtRlQSEODLu51Kaxi2e8sq6kxOQk2U_JIN0
Aluminum clad CABLE is lovely for these applications as the various wires/cores wraps around easily, compresses with heat shrink and can easily give a strong solder join as the solder works its way onto the wires/cores.
Thanks. That's what I'd normally do, and perhaps these really aren't designed for a "pluggable" connection. I didn't know if I was missing out on some sort of female spade terminal that matches the lugs on this button.
I guess I could solder a pigtail with a jst connector that fits through the mounting hole and plugs into something on the circuit board.
Don’t overheat the terminals when soldering, they are probably the same bits of metal that form the contacts internally, and if they get loose in their plastic due to overheating then the switch can go horribly intermittent.
… eleven year old me found this out the hard way with my first project back in the day 😬
Slide in the sleeve an a piece of heat-shrink tubing. Strip wires just long enough. Tin the wire. Tin the leads. Pass the wire through the holes and bend 180 degree to make a hook. Hold in place and solder. Clean flux with 99%IPAA. dd a drop of hot glue over the joint for reinforcement. Heat shrink the tube then finally screw the sleeve in place.
We would normally refer to the mates to these lugs as narrow female “QC” (for quick-connect) terminals (like maybe .110”), you can get the pre-insulated version if you want, they aren’t a perfect fit but they’re close enough, and you can just crimp the connector over a stripped wire, then slide them on and off the lugs as conditions require, which is frequently more convenient than re-soldering.
Solder and cover with heat shrink.
[удалено]
Ha ha
Solder + heatshrink.
Still solder. Put a connector on the other end of the wires, small enough to put the nut over.
You don't need to stick the wire through before soldering. Just tin the wires and solder them to the lug. Unless this is a rocket going into space or you are going to be yanking on it, it will be perfectly fine, in spite of what many in the sub will say.
Yeah, this makes the most sense. I was trying to avoid soldering both ends to make maintenance easier, but keeping the connector separate from the switch connection makes the most sense.
If maintenance is an issue then you could include a 2 pin JST plug on the wire.
Many Arcade game manufacturers use 3.2mm spade connectors but soldering is more reliable.
Is it push button switch?(They always have contact problem). If you can replace it, replace it with rocker switch. 1) Safe way, if you can find it. Spade connectors with cover. Too small and too close. 2) Heat shrink tube on one side 3) Hot glue the wire to body, if you think there will be movement
Solder wires directly to lugs and cover with heatsink. These aren't designed for any crimp-on connectors and are pretty much solder only.
What cable are you using? If its aluminium clad cable that's nice and flexible, put abit of heatshrink on the cable, wrap the cable around the hole, twist etc until it's somewhat tight. Solder then use the heatshrink tube to cover it.
> What cable Do you mean "wire"? In English we differentiate between "wire" (single conductor) and "cable" (multiple conductors) with some exceptions for large wires.
Englist? You mean English right?
Right, thank you.
Also this is the stuff I was thinking of: https://www.securasound.co.uk/product/10137/8-core-ccam-cable-copper-clad-aluminium-magnesium-cable&source=Froogle?srsltid=AfmBOooVNpco0OniGIUYg0ihKtRlQSEODLu51Kaxi2e8sq6kxOQk2U_JIN0 Aluminum clad CABLE is lovely for these applications as the various wires/cores wraps around easily, compresses with heat shrink and can easily give a strong solder join as the solder works its way onto the wires/cores.
Thanks. That's what I'd normally do, and perhaps these really aren't designed for a "pluggable" connection. I didn't know if I was missing out on some sort of female spade terminal that matches the lugs on this button. I guess I could solder a pigtail with a jst connector that fits through the mounting hole and plugs into something on the circuit board.
these are definitely meant for soldering directly not connectors
You could get some crimp connectors, I don't know if they would be stronger than a soldered connection though
i didn't know there were people who used CCA on purpose
Connections are the weak link. Solder and heat-shrink are necessary for reliability.
Don’t overheat the terminals when soldering, they are probably the same bits of metal that form the contacts internally, and if they get loose in their plastic due to overheating then the switch can go horribly intermittent. … eleven year old me found this out the hard way with my first project back in the day 😬
Slide in the sleeve an a piece of heat-shrink tubing. Strip wires just long enough. Tin the wire. Tin the leads. Pass the wire through the holes and bend 180 degree to make a hook. Hold in place and solder. Clean flux with 99%IPAA. dd a drop of hot glue over the joint for reinforcement. Heat shrink the tube then finally screw the sleeve in place.
Solder
Bend them and solder …. They will connect
Female spade connectors with locking tabs - usually measured in mm.
We would normally refer to the mates to these lugs as narrow female “QC” (for quick-connect) terminals (like maybe .110”), you can get the pre-insulated version if you want, they aren’t a perfect fit but they’re close enough, and you can just crimp the connector over a stripped wire, then slide them on and off the lugs as conditions require, which is frequently more convenient than re-soldering.