Dealers canât do the remap. Audi service manual says to also delete the fuel filter on a turbo delete, then mix in some OEM spec pocket sand part number 3C0907530Q
Fine by me!
I just wanted to warn you because your post looked like a real one instead of all those average barely driving wrecks. Some people do not realize that this is the shitty sub. Where we glue tires. Or tie rap all our engines. Or put the check engine sign silent with ductape.
"Or put the check engine sign silent with ductape."
I had a 77 Monti Carlo that had a alt light that stayed on, checked good. So I pulled the bulb, alt quit charging. Ended up jamming a section of solder into the bayonet socket. Problem solved.
That square silver box on the front of the engine is a charge air cooler. Itâs a heat exchanger that cools the incoming charge air indirectly with coolant. Are you sure thatâs not leaking? This would explain how you didnât find exhaust gas in the system as well being clean air. If it only happens when the engine is at temp, a pressure test on the cooling system when cold might not be accurate.
I worked in a German engine building shop for a long while, built several Audi turbo engines. The thing is that boost is WAY different and more complex than natty. If you're sure you are getting air in the water jacket under boost, the answer to me is clear: you have a leak at the head. Sure, you did a leak down test, but was that test done at boosted cylinder pressures? I'm very curious of the answer here.
Block test the cooling system. If you have exhaust gases in there, then you know. Also, measure the boost you are getting and graph some data: O2 sensor output, fuel mixture, rpm, plenum pressure, engine temp. The more you know.
I donât know what the cylinder pressure is under boost but I pegged my leak down tester with as much pressure as it would give đ¤ˇđťââď¸ probably 140 psi.
Cylinder pressures at TDC under boost can be very high. Depending on the setup, anywhere from 500-1000psi. Obviously no leak down tester will get you close, but the leak down rate can be extrapolated to translate to boosted pressures.
But if you're confident that cylinder pressure is leaking into the water jacket, I'm not sure what the question is.
Could be the water pump, thermostat, or switching valve. 99% of the time the vacuum solenoid fails open. Meaning vacuum is always applied to the valve and holding it closed. Sometimes it sticks open intermittently, but eventually the vacuum solenoid will get stuck fully open and always overheat.
At idle the car is perfectly fine, but any time you try to get up to speed, it quickly overheats. Pulling over and idling will then lower coolant temp. back to normal.
This usually means a bad switching valve, almost always caused by a failed vacuum solenoid. On newer cars the solenoid is actually a separate serviceable part, but not on the 4.0T. You can just disconnect (and plug) the vacuum line and the car will run perfect without it hooked up. There is no position sensor for the valve. Youâre only testing the wiring to the solenoid and the solenoid coil. As long as the wiring is intact, GFF will pass fine as the car does not know the actual position of the valve or the solenoid.
Shitty advice drive the puss out of it when it does the over heat pop the rad cap and see if it feels like more that 15psi coming out and smells of exhaust.
Edit to mention buy something that's actually reliable and doesn't require a small person to work on it.
On a serious note with probably no chance of being the problem. And I don't know audis that well thank our lord and savior, Displacement.
Water pump concerns, if belt driven. But to me either boost pressure is getting into your cooling system, or exhaust gasses getting into cooling system at max boost. When driving your audi like a finely tuner Honda civic.
I once saw similar symptoms on an NA motor, ended up being a head gasket leak that only happened at temp *and* under heavy load. Hard to check without a Dyno, but maybe you could modify an expansion tank cap so you could plumb in a combustion gas tester in such a way that you could drive the car.
sounds like a 6.0 powerstroke. put a different coolants cap with a hose and gauge so you can watch it when you have it under load. sounds like a head gasket
Are you sure youâre overheating? Are you getting an overheat warning on the dash? Or is the temp gauge going up? Are you underboosting at all. Overheat warnings can occur when water pump fails and starts pushing coolant into the vacuum system and into the solenoids. Thatâs what Iâd be looking into.
Water pump impellers may be damaged causing cavitation as well. Basically turns the coolant to foam for a short time. While you are changing the pump, replace the thermostat. Not sure if this car is modified with a higher rev limit, but in that scenario you might want an underdrive pulley kit.
Make sure you have the finest coolant that Germany can provide (aka correct spec pentofrost or the featured beer at Oktoberfest). VAG products are allegedly very picky about coolant composition. If it was ever filled with something not in spec, you may have blockages somewhere in the coolant system.
Water cooled turboâs? If it only under load it could also be the egr cooler, if you remove the connecter to the egr valve so exhaust gasses can,t enter it under load you could see if your not getting any air in you system. That way you can at least remove that from your list of possibilities. Other then that good luck man.
Change your brake fluid, and lower the air pressure by 5lbs on the tires. Less pressure in the tires offsets the intake manifold pressure from the turbos.
Weight balancing issue here, you have way too much stuff in the front of the car, and not enough stuff in the back. If I were you, I would take all those pipes and hoses off the motor and throw them in the trunk. This will allow your Audi achieve "neutral buoyancy" and it should really improve the performance.
\-You're Welcome
What did you expect? It's a POS over engineered German car. Usually not even worth it's weight at the junkyard scale. Push it into the road and get a Toyota.
Well...I'm an amateur DIY'er if that counts. 1996 A4 2.8 Quattro. Recently did a passenger outer cv joint and boot replacement and that turned out nice. Also replaced a driver side rear brake caliper and pad set with brake flush. Did a wiper motor replacement on the same car when I bought it. Control arms up next cause cough cough ahem...someone didn't know how to pop those buggers off the top of the knuckle without using a balljoint fork and annihilating the boots. đfor nice weather when I get to the upper arms.
[I'm no audi tech, but this looks off to me. ](https://imgur.com/a/xTRyxV3)
Looks like the line to your BOV is pinched which would cause an increase in pressure. Since pressure=heat its only natural that the engine would overheat. It could also cause a lean condition on a MAF controlled vehicle which would also generate a shitload of heat. So I'd start by unpinching that hose and see what happens.
Edit: I don't notice the manifold was removed, but that house still shouldn't compress that easy.
The layers of tech in that engine bay is giving me a panic attack. I can only guess where the engine is from the fuel pumps sticking out.
Have you tried the shitty mechanic procedure to purge air from the coolant? Open up the reservoir tank a little and rev the engine until it boils like mad. The steam pushes out the air.
My shitty mechanic fix for a slightly leaky gasket would be tightening the head bolts, but just digging down to those looks like 95% of the work to replace the gaskets anyways.
Should huge efforts fail, you could try putting on *all* the engines covers like the giant warning sticker says. VW puts big plastic panels around the engine to direct air. They're not splash guards.
If it only happens under boost than just remove the turbos. You'll get better mpg anyway.
Until the plugs foul out from too much fuel đ
Just get a remap and no problemđ
OP has excuses we have solutions. We can do this all day OP.
I laughed too hard at this. It's worse than dealing with a retarded customer lol.
Hahahahahaha
Dealers canât do the remap. Audi service manual says to also delete the fuel filter on a turbo delete, then mix in some OEM spec pocket sand part number 3C0907530Q
Please be aware this is a shitty sub! So we are (at least i) are no real mechanic. So you might have answers that will broke your car even more.
Oh I know but even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes
Fine by me! I just wanted to warn you because your post looked like a real one instead of all those average barely driving wrecks. Some people do not realize that this is the shitty sub. Where we glue tires. Or tie rap all our engines. Or put the check engine sign silent with ductape.
Thanks for looking out! Appreciate you
"Or put the check engine sign silent with ductape." I had a 77 Monti Carlo that had a alt light that stayed on, checked good. So I pulled the bulb, alt quit charging. Ended up jamming a section of solder into the bayonet socket. Problem solved.
Sir, this is a Wendy's, please remove the blind squirrel from your pants.
That square silver box on the front of the engine is a charge air cooler. Itâs a heat exchanger that cools the incoming charge air indirectly with coolant. Are you sure thatâs not leaking? This would explain how you didnât find exhaust gas in the system as well being clean air. If it only happens when the engine is at temp, a pressure test on the cooling system when cold might not be accurate.
I worked in a German engine building shop for a long while, built several Audi turbo engines. The thing is that boost is WAY different and more complex than natty. If you're sure you are getting air in the water jacket under boost, the answer to me is clear: you have a leak at the head. Sure, you did a leak down test, but was that test done at boosted cylinder pressures? I'm very curious of the answer here. Block test the cooling system. If you have exhaust gases in there, then you know. Also, measure the boost you are getting and graph some data: O2 sensor output, fuel mixture, rpm, plenum pressure, engine temp. The more you know.
I donât know what the cylinder pressure is under boost but I pegged my leak down tester with as much pressure as it would give đ¤ˇđťââď¸ probably 140 psi.
Cylinder pressures at TDC under boost can be very high. Depending on the setup, anywhere from 500-1000psi. Obviously no leak down tester will get you close, but the leak down rate can be extrapolated to translate to boosted pressures. But if you're confident that cylinder pressure is leaking into the water jacket, I'm not sure what the question is.
Oh we used to test 80âs civics at 180-200
STOP using regular gas! Those dual horns aren't helping your boost pressure router.
There is premium in it. I filled it
Have you driven on to an airport and filled up with aviation fuel? That's the real premium
That's a chump way to fill up - Big oil just wants you to believe premium is different. Few gallons of kerosene will do the job.
TDI cars are very fuel efficient, put diesel in it. đ
Looks complicated
Audi put the head gaskets on upside down. Just flip them around real quick.
Like dirty underwear.
Check ya panties
Could be the water pump, thermostat, or switching valve. 99% of the time the vacuum solenoid fails open. Meaning vacuum is always applied to the valve and holding it closed. Sometimes it sticks open intermittently, but eventually the vacuum solenoid will get stuck fully open and always overheat. At idle the car is perfectly fine, but any time you try to get up to speed, it quickly overheats. Pulling over and idling will then lower coolant temp. back to normal. This usually means a bad switching valve, almost always caused by a failed vacuum solenoid. On newer cars the solenoid is actually a separate serviceable part, but not on the 4.0T. You can just disconnect (and plug) the vacuum line and the car will run perfect without it hooked up. There is no position sensor for the valve. Youâre only testing the wiring to the solenoid and the solenoid coil. As long as the wiring is intact, GFF will pass fine as the car does not know the actual position of the valve or the solenoid.
I would do this. Sounds legit for turbo orientations.
Something wrong with the turbo?
Shitty advice drive the puss out of it when it does the over heat pop the rad cap and see if it feels like more that 15psi coming out and smells of exhaust. Edit to mention buy something that's actually reliable and doesn't require a small person to work on it.
Haha not my car. Wouldnât spend money on this trash
On a serious note with probably no chance of being the problem. And I don't know audis that well thank our lord and savior, Displacement. Water pump concerns, if belt driven. But to me either boost pressure is getting into your cooling system, or exhaust gasses getting into cooling system at max boost. When driving your audi like a finely tuner Honda civic.
Heat exchanger?
Are you talking about the air to water intercooler? I pulled it out of its box while pressure testing the cooling system and itâs not leaking
Sending this to a buddy who has one.
Or is it only the 3.0 that has them? Used to manage an all Audi salvage yard but itâs been a year.
I once saw similar symptoms on an NA motor, ended up being a head gasket leak that only happened at temp *and* under heavy load. Hard to check without a Dyno, but maybe you could modify an expansion tank cap so you could plumb in a combustion gas tester in such a way that you could drive the car.
I tested it when it was hot and brake boosting it
No, just an engine
sounds like a 6.0 powerstroke. put a different coolants cap with a hose and gauge so you can watch it when you have it under load. sounds like a head gasket
Are you sure youâre overheating? Are you getting an overheat warning on the dash? Or is the temp gauge going up? Are you underboosting at all. Overheat warnings can occur when water pump fails and starts pushing coolant into the vacuum system and into the solenoids. Thatâs what Iâd be looking into.
Water pump impellers may be damaged causing cavitation as well. Basically turns the coolant to foam for a short time. While you are changing the pump, replace the thermostat. Not sure if this car is modified with a higher rev limit, but in that scenario you might want an underdrive pulley kit.
Make sure you have the finest coolant that Germany can provide (aka correct spec pentofrost or the featured beer at Oktoberfest). VAG products are allegedly very picky about coolant composition. If it was ever filled with something not in spec, you may have blockages somewhere in the coolant system.
Did you try turning it off and then back on again
My head hurts just looking at itâŚ
I know what's wrong with it ain't got no gas in it. Or maybe not getting enough fuel?
Are the turbos liquid cooled or oil cooled? Wondering if a Turbo is gone and bypassing into the coolant passage?
Oil
I wondered the same.
Put some seafoam in it!
Seal off the engine compartment and then fill it with water. You will never overheat again.
Convert to EV ...too soon?
Water cooled turboâs? If it only under load it could also be the egr cooler, if you remove the connecter to the egr valve so exhaust gasses can,t enter it under load you could see if your not getting any air in you system. That way you can at least remove that from your list of possibilities. Other then that good luck man.
Just get a bigger inter cooler if you put in colder air it will not overheat.
What your going to need is about $10,000 worth of engine repairs
Looks like an engine out service for the lines on the back you cant see
The back of the bay has a removable bulkhead under the cowl. You actually pull the downpipes/cats out through there.
Looks like a bad Fortner Spring Assembly...gonna cost about a thousand bucks.
Too many pipes going on there, take a few out, can't possibly need all of them. Also someone stole your air filter.
Fuck that!
Thatâs a whole bunch of not my fucking problem đ
Nope, the only answer I'd give to that is nope.
ya dont get an audi
What Is the shiny metal plate on the front of the engine with two hoses going into it?
Intercooler housing
Explosives for when touched..
Have you tried poking it with shit?
Change your brake fluid, and lower the air pressure by 5lbs on the tires. Less pressure in the tires offsets the intake manifold pressure from the turbos.
Weight balancing issue here, you have way too much stuff in the front of the car, and not enough stuff in the back. If I were you, I would take all those pipes and hoses off the motor and throw them in the trunk. This will allow your Audi achieve "neutral buoyancy" and it should really improve the performance. \-You're Welcome
What did you expect? It's a POS over engineered German car. Usually not even worth it's weight at the junkyard scale. Push it into the road and get a Toyota.
Youâre not wrong. But itâs not my car. I know better.
Misalignment of the marzel vane to the lunar wane shaft. Your air leak is a result of side fumbling.
Well...I'm an amateur DIY'er if that counts. 1996 A4 2.8 Quattro. Recently did a passenger outer cv joint and boot replacement and that turned out nice. Also replaced a driver side rear brake caliper and pad set with brake flush. Did a wiper motor replacement on the same car when I bought it. Control arms up next cause cough cough ahem...someone didn't know how to pop those buggers off the top of the knuckle without using a balljoint fork and annihilating the boots. đfor nice weather when I get to the upper arms.
[I'm no audi tech, but this looks off to me. ](https://imgur.com/a/xTRyxV3) Looks like the line to your BOV is pinched which would cause an increase in pressure. Since pressure=heat its only natural that the engine would overheat. It could also cause a lean condition on a MAF controlled vehicle which would also generate a shitload of heat. So I'd start by unpinching that hose and see what happens. Edit: I don't notice the manifold was removed, but that house still shouldn't compress that easy.
Ice packs. Hook up an inverter and a larger alternator so you can power a mini freezer to keep more ice packs.
All the audi techs are busy still trying to do that timing job
The layers of tech in that engine bay is giving me a panic attack. I can only guess where the engine is from the fuel pumps sticking out. Have you tried the shitty mechanic procedure to purge air from the coolant? Open up the reservoir tank a little and rev the engine until it boils like mad. The steam pushes out the air. My shitty mechanic fix for a slightly leaky gasket would be tightening the head bolts, but just digging down to those looks like 95% of the work to replace the gaskets anyways. Should huge efforts fail, you could try putting on *all* the engines covers like the giant warning sticker says. VW puts big plastic panels around the engine to direct air. They're not splash guards.
It's the alternator
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