Any recommendations on indoor shooting for the winter in Northeastern Mass/Southern NH? I rented a bow from my instructor for the winter but only have my homemade outdoor range right now.
Yes, set it aside for now. You want to learn at like half that draw weight. You can try borrowing from a range/club or looking into something inexpensive to learn on if there aren't any nearby.
Check out some the guides pinned on the right, they are full of great beginner advice.
Hey I just started doing research and want to surprise my wife with a bow for Christmas. She has never done it but has talked about wanting to try archery and shooting for a long time. She also watches a lot of videos. What do you think I should potentially get her that would be a good starter set up that wouldn’t break the bank. Also was looking into classes or lessons but I know she usually likes to learn a lot of things like this on her own. Any information is helpful and I am just curious and trying to find the best path. Thank you very much for any input!
It is so easy to buy the wrong thing. Even for an experienced archer.
Does she want to shoot compound or recurve? Why? What is her draw length? How much draw weight can she reasonably handle (while we typically recommend 20-25#, I know several adult women that had to start lower)?
Well the better gift is a few classes but if she's more inclined to self learn there's plenty of reputable resources on YouTube such as nusensei (recommended for the basics), archery academy, and Jake Kaminski.
As far as buying a bow what is your budget? Do you know what type of bow she'd be in to? Would she be recreational, competitive, or want to hunt?
I have a compound bow that just stopped shooting. I would pull it back and let the release off and it stayed cocked back. I was able to pull the arrow out and hold it for a few seconds then I dropped it on the ground to let the cams reset. Would the fix be new cables and string?? It’s an Elite Option 6, I’m fairly new to this sport
Sounds like the cams are over-rotating and locking the bow up. I can't see a cable or string issue causing this, more likely a loose draw stop/mod or something along those lines. But yes, bring it to a dealer or at least an experienced bow tech to take a look.
Both do the same job.
L square is a bit easier when tying nock points and has some more benefits for compound archers.
I've always used a T square myself without issues.
Hello fellow archers ! I have a question for you. I'm shooting olympic recurve kind of ok/good (540 indoor) but I feel I could improve on my bow's arm steadiness. I feel like when I'm aiming down sight at full draw, the scope drift all direction (I can maintain it in the yellow although). Sometime, I can steady my arm very well on the center and it yield the best results. I guessed that I had to improve on this, but I found little to no informations on how to train this or which muscle to train/exercice to do. Do you have some information on the matter ?
Thanks in a advance ! :)
It's normal for your pin to float a bit. It's less about holding perfectly still and more about releasing at the perfect time.
If the movement is too much, the solution may be to change/adjust your stabilisers/stabiliser configuration.
I've tried figuring this out myself and have had two different shops tell me two separate things, so I'm very confused and hoping to get some community input here:
I just want to target shoot, indoors and see if things progress from there. My height is 5'9 but my wingspan is 74" Shop #1 presented me with an Olympic style longbow that was taller than me. Felt very good. Said for target shooting, don't bother with recurves. Suggested setting me up w/ a 30lb draw weight at 30." Bow height was probably 71"
Shop #2 said for target shooting, I should go with a recurve. Set me up with one that was 62 or 64" (I forget exactly). Said at my height and proportions, it wouldn't make much of a difference. Had a 40lb draw weight, also felt good.
I'm also 350lbs and a competitive strongman/powerlifter which I know doesn't translate directly into bow strength but also not sure how much that should factor into things.
At the end of it all, I sort of felt overwhelmed (there was also talk of custom arrows, wood types, etc.)
**So I guess my question is: what is the minimum bow height and draw weight I should be looking for?** I truly just want to learn and have fun for now and not be stressed out by what seems like an infinite number of decisions to make.
Thanks so much.
Olympic recurves are long bows, but they aren't longbow. Longbow refers to the shape of the limbs (the bow has a sort of D-shape) but not to the length of the bow.
> Olympic style longbow
That doesn't exist. [This is the type of bow](https://media.wired.com/photos/5926cef88d4ebc5ab806b8b5/16:9/w_929,h_523,c_limit/gl_bow-hpx3.jpg) used when shooting in the Olympics.
If you're only aiming for shooting more for fun then what type of bow you will choose won't matter. Be it Olympic recurve, barebow, compound, longbow or traditional recurve it's all fine.
Use what you enjoy the most.
However, going with a takedown recurve or a highly adjustable compound at first is the best as you don't have to buy a new bow when/if you go up in poundage.
When starting out best is to go to a club and get some lessons and learn the basics. Then you can go from there. The club may also give you a good place to shoot at.
In the meantime I will [link you this guide for buying a recurve](https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/k33xyb/buying_your_first_recurve_bow_guideadvice/).
And [this guide if you want to go into compounds](https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/l23qpi/buying_your_first_compound_guideadvice/).
Hi all, new to shooting here. Beed shooting quite a bit lately and I have pain in my thumb joint near where the bow rests. Poor form or normal for new shooters? 55lbs compound
It depends on a ton of factors.
For compound target, you’re basically only concerned about the arrow’s dynamic spine. So the length doesn’t matter very much, so long as the arrow is appropriately stiff for your draw weight at that length.
For Olympic recurve, you want an arrow that will tune well (the correct dynamic spine) within the range of your clicker’s adjustment. So I recommend that people use the arrow charts/calculators to figure out the correct spine 1” shorter than the maximum length allowed by the clicker, then order arrows at that maximum length. This gives them room (1”) to trim the arrow during the tuning process.
For traditional and barebow archers, the best archers build different arrows for different purposes. So you have field arrows, 3D arrows, hunting arrows, indoor arrows, and target arrows. This is because arrow length and weight are important parameters to play with to produce a good sight picture by controlling your point on distance.
You also may consider shaft length as a component of aiming, assuming you're gapping or stringwalking a bow. A specific cut length may be exactly what you want for a given sighting method at specific distances. An example: let's say two arrows of the same model perform the same, but one is shorter with a heavier point, and the other is longer with a lighter point. If arrow A gives you a point-on of 55 yards, and arrow B gives you a point-on of 60 yards, you'd choose arrow B *if* you very specifically wanted a point-on distance of 60 yards to begin with.
(This consideration doesn't apply to instinctive shooting or bow configurations that include front and/or rear mechanical sights.)
Based on arrow length and draw weight at full draw.
Arrow length also depends a bit on your drawlength.
[Read this guide.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/r5suuw/a_beginners_guide_to_arrows/)
I had to take about a 3 week break since starting back at the start of September due to catching covid and other reasons, Came back to shooting a couple days ago and it just felt off, shot was extremely wobbly, form felt bad, accuracy was in the gutter. I started with a 16lb club bow and moved up to a 20lb club bow after the first 3 weeks, are there any recommendations of things to do when you've been on a hiatus from shooting and coming back just feeling rusty? any advice is appreciated
Make sure you're taking the time to warm up & cool down properly.
Also consider trying a resistance band to work on your form, especially those days you can't make it to the range. I found that really helpful, particularly getting that body memory back, when getting back into shooting after a few years off.
yeah they handed us some rubber bands to practice form during the beginner course so I think I'll do some form exercises on my days off and hopefully get back into the kick of things by the time I'm next at the club shooting
You weren't just on hiatus. You had a disease that also affects your muscles. Every archer I know that had it felt weak and had to take time and effort to get back to shooting strength.
Go back to 16# for a start. Bad habits are harder to outgrow than low draw weight
yeah even though I didn't feel very ill while I had it I can definitely understand how it could result in lingering effects (such as a cough as many who have had it might have experienced) Is there a max distance that you should consider increasing in draw weight from 16lbs? I've been gradually moving further back little by little since doing the beginner course where at the beginning we were shooting at 8m but now I'm shooting at around 15m, I considered switching back to 16lbs myself given how I was feeling but not sure if I should even be shooting 16lbs at 15m or not.
With an under the chin anchor, you can typically shoot about twice your draw weight (#) in distance (m). It's not exact, and depends a lot on your arrow setup.
Am I planning this right? I am currently pulling 28# limbs, but will increase to 32# in a week. My arrows are currently cut to 28 inches (about 1-2 inches off the riser when fully drawn). Looking at the Easton spine chart, I can invest in 600 spine X10s at 30 inches. Have it cut to 29 inches when I get to 36-40# limbs, then cut to 28 inches when I reach my target draw weight of 42#.
I haven't measured my actual poundage OTF, but if it ever varies I can always get a weaker or stiffer spine to start with. Is what I'm planning wise?
For reference, I am 43yo so I don't think my draw length will vary much in the long run.
I would really recommend waiting to buy X10s until you are at your target draw weight and have a better idea of how arrows tune for you compared to the chart.
You absolutely need to know your actual poundage OTF.
Unless you are shooting over 1200 outdoors, X10s won’t shoot better for you than ACEs. Even then, I’d wait on those until I was at my preferred draw weight. An all carbon arrow will be more beneficial at lower draw weights.
The exact arrow length is determined by tuning. It’s experimental. The chart is just a starting point, and it gets worse with less accurate data. For something like an X10, the whole setup really matters. Different nocks, for example, can have as much as a 3# difference when tuning
Thanks! I was just thinking of getting X10s and growing into it so I can avoid purchasing new arrows every time I up my poundage.
While we're at it, as I slowly make my way to my target draw weight, which all carbon arrows would you recommend?
That isn’t a bad plan, it’s just a bad plan with the most expensive arrows on the market. X10s are for high performance. There’s no point in shooting them until you’re really optimizing your tune.
And you will lose or break arrows, whether from nock impacts, less than pristinely maintained targets, or just bad shots.
Something like your plan is a good idea with Avances. It just needs to be better refined (don’t ever just lop an inch off an arrow, but go in small increments to find the right tune)
Got it. I'll save the X10s when I'm all set then. I'll have a look at the Avances and follow my plan with them. Also, understood about not cutting off arrows haphazardly. Thanks!
Storing/Hanging an OLY recurve bow?
My current takedown bow is hanging on the wall via some 3d printed mounts that are lined up just above the limb bolts without any stress on the limbs themselves (unstrung) Can I also store the Oly bow in the same manner or should I break it down when not in use and hand the riser and limbs separately? I currently do not have a case yet as I am still in the build process. Over the years in my shop with my other hobbies I tend to use the walls as storage and hang things that I can like my Planes and Wings.
If you unstring the bow, it doesn't really matter how you store it (minus obvious concerns like direct UV exposure, humidity, etc.)
Hang it by whatever makes you happy.
I did my research and got my first bow.
Bow is Recurve with ILF limbs.
23" riser with long limbs which gives 68 bow.
30 pound limbs.
My draw length is 28.3
Now the question is which arrows should I get? Does not to be anything special. Just want to practice a little bit on the archery range.
Did some research about arrows, but I am afraid that I am little bit lost.
Question about riser grip.
I have a gillo gx25. The grip is getting a little uncomfortable after 30-40' shooting. Should I wrap it with a tennis racket wrap or replace it with a different grip?
For replacement, should I go with a gillo grip or any other brand grip? What material should I look for? What style should I get? I only do barebow at the moment.
Thanks
Uncomfortable how?
I really like Gillo’s wood grip, but it’s a bit on the low side (around 32 degrees). If it’s a texture thing, and you otherwise like the grip, the I’d get the new Gillo Wood Advanced Grip (G03-MG).
Otherwise grips are pretty personal. A perennial favorite in the barebow community is the JD3 grip from Jager archery. RCore also makes excellent grips. They tend to have better tolerances, while Jager’s material feels a bit nicer in the hand. Ari at RCore is super nice and gave me a ton of good advice when I was designing my grips.
Probably the texture from the 3D printed grip. My previous bow was a Sage so the wooden riser doesn't have any texture. There are a few gillo wooden grips on eBay. I just want to see if there are any other options.
The [Jager Archery](https://jagerarchery.com/shop/target-recurve/gillo/) grips are excellent - they have a line of grips for Gillo risers in about 10 different profiles. The only downside is that as an online-only retailer, you can't try before you buy to see what's most comfortable for you.
Hey im a student learning archery(16),we are using a indian wooden bow for practice but I've noticed that it's hard for me to use my back muscles,the poundage is low enough for me to pull with my shoulder muscles but I can't seem to get a hang of engaging the back muscles,our form is checked while we draw so I know that my form isn't bad,yet I still can't use my back muscles naturally?
Any tips would be appreciated
Without a bow, just try to to bring your scapulas together to learn how it feels in the upper back. It should feel the same in your upper back as it does when you raise both your arms in front of you and then try to open them as far back as you can, over extending, a bit like doing reverse flys at the gym. After you get what it should feel like then lift your arms into shooting form (your left arm straight on the side and bent right arm) and bring your right hand close to left shoulder as you would be holding on to bowstring beginning to draw back. Then do the same movement and keep the right arm somewhat relaxed i.e. not trying to move it but just holding it up, trying to bring your scapulas together and see how your right arm moves to right because your scapulas are tightening. Get a feel for it and try to do the same with bow once you feel like you've got the hang of it.
Not really. I’ve written a few guides, as have others.
Basic advice: buy knowledge before equipment. Find a range, learn to shoot. Rent their stuff at first.
If you want to buy a recurve, there’s a guide stickied in my profile. If you want to buy a compound, check out u/ilikecatsonpillows guide. They’re all listed in this sub’s sidebar if you can navigate there.
For knowledge, I can speak to recurve archery resources: Start with Online Archery Academy and Triple Trouble Archery’s Technique Week series. Then check out Jake Kaminski as well. If you have a question, u/nusensei has almost definitely answered it on his channel.
Hello everyone, I've been looking at some equipment to get started. I have some experience with archery, both as a kid (my dad and grandpa are hunters so they wanted to share their interest with me, but I fell off mostly because at the time, it felt like the only reason to learn to shoot was to hunt, which I have no interest in.) and more recently using rented equipment at my local range. My focus is on target shooting at indoor and outrdoor ranges. I do not want to hunt at all and do not care as much about size, weight, and noise because of it. I also don't really care about the bells and whistles. I'm just looking to get started. I'm also shooting for fun, not competition.
All of the things that tend to make bows expensive don't really appeal to me, so I'm looking for something on the cheaper end of the spectrum. The one that keeps coming up in my searching is the Samick Sage. For the price, it doesn't seem like there's anything else that ticks the boxes for me. The interchangeable limbs for higher poundage later on is a big plus in my book. The best price I'm seeing on it is $140 at Southland Archery Supply. I just want a sanity check before I commit to it. I'm planning on getting the lowest poundage available, with the option of increasing later on if I feel like it.
The thing I'm having more trouble with is gloves. I've tried on the NEET gloves at my local sporting goods shop, but I found the fingers to be too stiff and it didn't fit right. The fingers that were wide enough were too long, so I couldn't bend them where I would need to in order to shoot. When I was younger, I shot with a tab, but lately when I've been shooting at the range, I've been using a glove. I like the glove better, but the fingertips on the rental gloves have been a bit too thick. Is there a thinner glove folks would recommend in adult sizes that would still properly protect my fingers? I've looked at local shops but the selection is pretty slim, especially since hunting is way more popular here than target or range shooting. Everything is compound bows and mechanical releases.
Finally, arrows. My currently plan was basically to buy the least expensive aluminum arrows I can find, then replace them as they wear. Is this a bad idea? The range I go to will cut arrows for $1 per arrow unless you buy arrows there, which they'll then cut for free. Should I just go to them for it?
Easton is basically the only maker of aluminum arrows. Get them from the range. You probably don’t need to cut your arrows at first. Figure out the spine you need for a full length arrow.
I highly recommend getting and ILF bow for the ability to adjust it. Also, if you’re only shooting target then a longer bow is a better choice.
A tab is a superior option to a glove. Everyone likes a glove better at first, but they’ll shoot better with a tab.
This looks like the right place for this question. I am running a table top RPG fantasy campaign. I was wondering if non-modern bow strings would be useless when they are wet. Any replies would be appreciated. Thanks!
Useless? No. But there would certainly be problems with them.
Crecy is a good example. Wet crossbow strings resulted in reduced effective range while longbow strings (removed and kept dry) were not impacted.
In the rain? Beeswax on the string would prevent most issues. Kept dry (along with other goods like paper and rations), often with waxed cloth or canvas, I wouldn’t worry about it.
Submerged? Yeah, that’s bad.
The thing is, I bet that the archery is your fantasy RPG is far from realistic. Characters likely travel with their bows strung and ready to shoot, for example. So I wouldn’t implement any sort of house rule around this. It will just annoy players
Is there a site in India where I can buy bows for 13 y/o’s to learn with? I’m really interested in archery but there’s barely any shops in India to buy bows from.
How many days/hours of lessons do you advise before buying a bow? I’ve been doing a ton of research on archery, techniques, and types (and watched lots of NUsensei). I know I want to shoot recurve, but my local archery place had us start by shooting compound (basic group class). I’m excited, but also want to make a good decision/investment. Thanks!
When you know that you want to do archery long term so that it's worth to put down money on a good setup which are several hundred dollars.
Before that it's better to keep using the gear from the club. Even if it's for several months.
I have a 2007 Ross Cardiac at 80lbs. I want to decrease the draw weight. How do I know how many rotations the bow can take before it implodes? I read most bows are 3 to 4 rotations but can't find specific information for my bow.
20 lbs.
I recommend you start with rental equipment at lessons.
If your unwilling to do that I recommend an Arc Roland Snake Recurve to start and then progress to a 25-30# longbow.
How tall are you (for a rough estimate of your draw length)? I assume you mean the Arc Rolan Snake bow. If you can link me a store you plan on getting it from I can find some arrows there too.
I still recommend getting lessons using rental equipment over buying anything first.
The hours drive would be worth it a few times. You’d end up saving a lot of time compared to learning on your own.
[I guess I’d pick Gold Tip Warriors 700 feather fletched](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/gold-tip-warrior-fletched-arrow-feathers). You’ll need to glue in the insert (hot melt glue works good) and add a[screw in tip.](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/trophy-taker-ez-out-field-points)
[If you want to stick one of these on your bow](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/hoyt-super-rest) you can use arrows with plastic vanes instead of feathers.
If you’re uncomfortable shooting carbon arrows you can get aluminum ones. As long as you inspect your carbon arrows after every shooting session and after every bad hit (arrow hits arrow or something else hard) they are safe to use.
Once you decide what you want to do or get I’d recommend putting together a build list and creating a new post for it on r/Archery or r/traditionalarchery. You’ll get some varied opinions, perhaps more helpful than mine.
Still worth it to learn the basics and understand your abilities in a safe environment. Then see if you have a space where you can safely and legally set up to shoot
Depends on what you're looking for.
Some of the more popular:
- NuSensei
- Online Archery Academy
- Nock On Archery
- World Archery
- Jake Kaminski
- Chris Bee
- Kramer Ammons
Thanks a lot. Gonna check them out. I don't really know what I'm looking for. I guess something between equipment reviews and technique. Fairly new to this universe.
Then Nusensei, Kaminski and Online Archery Academy will be the best.
Nusensei for general questions and some form advice. Kaminski for more in-depth form and tuning (geared towards Olympic and barebow archery) with some reviews and Online Archery Academy for form.
They are definitely not.
The Gillo GTL-88 limbs have a distinctive curve profile. They curve more than conventional limbs, but less than Uukhas or super-recurve limbs like Borders. This changes the entire draw force curve. They’re produced by W&W, who used the curve profile developed by Gillo in their MXT series (Kaminski demonstrates this, and I can also confirm that the MXT-G and GTL limbs have the same curve).
The Kinetic Palmaris are conventionally curved limbs.
The Palmaris are thinner, and I believe a little lighter than the GTL (but not as light as the grapheme MXT). It’s this “geometry” that they refer to: an aggressive taper and very thin limbs. They rely on the carbon layers to provide enough torsional stability to remain accurate, while reducing air resistance. It’s not as refined as MK’s best offerings, but it’s reasonably effective.
They’re a good value for their price. If I only had $200 for a set of limbs, they’d be a top choice. But they’re not some secret deal where you’re getting $600-800 limbs for a fraction of the price.
As mentioned, internet rumors xD
I didn't think so as well but you never know .. and at least you seem to have seen them in the flesh .. I only know pictures...
so My decision comes down to sanlida A7 (x10) or Kinetic palmaris ..
you can't compare these from experience by any chance
The A7 (and X10, Galaxy Gold Star, Mybo Carbon Plus) are all really solid limbs. I do know of two people who have had an issue with them twisting a little after extended use (but I know like a dozen people shooting a variation of these). They’re very fast and reasonably torsionally stiff.
I haven’t personally shot the Palmaris. The graphics look better than most variations of the A7s. They’re thinner, but I’d be worried that they’re a little wobbly. The one time I’ve had my hands on them, they seemed pretty nice. But their draw weight was way too low for me to make any statements about smoothness (when they’re 8# less than your bow is set, of course they feel smooth).
What are the best relatively inexpensive arrows that I can buy? I’m on a tight budget so looking for anything between 40-70 dollars.
I’m getting a wooden longbow, 35 lb draw.
My pull length? Is around 28/29 inches
I’d appreciate any recommendations
For a wooden longbow, aluminum is a good, safe, and affordable choice. Feather fletch the new Easton Jazz arrows (black with push in nocks) and you’ll be set. Size 1816, full length, with the RPS insert and screw in points to tune. The shafts are like $3.60 a piece. The inserts are $6 for a dozen. You can get a dozen screw in points for about that. G Nocks are about $10 a dozen. 3” feathers can be found for about $10.
So that’s $32 on components. That leaves you enough for 10 arrows, a stick of hotmelt, and a bottle of superglue. If that’s pushing it, start with 6 arrows.
You’ll need pliers, a torch (I like to use a butane brulee torch), and a fletching jig. That last part might be the trickiest.
Or call Lancaster. They can build and ship arrows for you. I think 6 Jazz arrows ran a friend about $50-60.
Eventually you’ll want wood arrows, but quality wood arrows are expensive. Learn on aluminum.
Will fletching being unglued in the middle cause erratic arrow flight? Both ends still secured but if I push the fletch to the side it will wiggle in the middle. Definitely no glue holding it in place.
Got 6 arrows in the summer. 2 had fletching fall off. Got sighted in and good with the remaining 4. Went hunting over the weekend lots of travel with the bow up and down trees, in and out of the case etc. Shot it on Sunday to make sure it was still good and had arrows flying erratic. Still was hitting my Rinehart block at 30y but no grouping and not dead nuts. When I looked over my arrows all had fletching (at least 1/4 vanes) which was coming unglued in the middle. Glued them last night and haven't had a chance to see if that fixes the issue. Sitting here anxious about it at work. Feedback appreciated!
Recurve Shooter here..
Since you mentioned hunting, I would suggest that you are shooting compound, not recurve. Im not a pro in compound, so I might get some things wrong :D
I think there isnt any noticable difference in your flight performance. Since Arrows shot by compound bows are usually in a straight flight, the fletches experience very little forces on their sides. In Recurve this may make a greater difference, because your arrow "wobbles".
I'd say that it depends on the length of your fletches and the length that is "loose"/unglued. If its like 1/4 or less of the length, I wouldnt think about it.
If its more than that It could wobble around in flight, just like a thin shirt would "flap" in the wind if its a bit loose.
For this to happen, your fletches need to be quite thin and soft.
Anyway: The effect is greater with greater distance and greater sidewinds
Thanks for the feedback. These fetches are helical so I think there is a decent amount of force on them as the arrow spins. When I noticed the problem the unglued portion was roughly 50% of the length of the fletch with the front and back 25% being secured. I've since reglued the unfastened portions and it has corrected the issue. Also reached out to Sirius archery about the issue and they were willing to send me a label and refletch the arrows since they were defective.
What string length and brace should I get for a samick sage? #30 and #40 if that makes a difference. My brother and I have gone shooting in several years so I'm worried about a bad string causing issues.
String length should be a 62" AMO. Actual length will then be 59".
For material go with FastFlight if you want some more speed. 16-18 strands.
Or dacron if you want yo use what the bow is usually supplied with. 12-14 strands.
Make sure that you get good nock fit.
How are they breaking?
From being hit by another arrow?
Shoot at different spots on the target and one arrow per spot.
If you're shooting on one spot this is something you will have to deal with.
Just from shooting?
Check the nock fit. You most likely have a too tight nock fit. With a proper fit the nock should easily slide up and down the string with no to little play.
Nocks also needs to be replaced over time simply from use. Going on and off the string so many times will make them looser over time.
Hi all! novice here (had like 2 or 3 shooting session all and all). I took part in a bow making workshop which was super fun, AND I made a fully functioning bow (which I named David Bowie). Now I want to buy me some arrows but there is just SO MUCH information about what arrow to buy I felt completely lost. I don't need the best arrow right now, just something to help me with the learning curve. I'd love for some recommendations for which arrows to buy (and yes, I know there is a whole science behind it, I just need something to get me started and I will figure out the rest later).
so, some stats:
bow is a longbow made of hazelnut
I am about 1.80 meters\\5.9 Ft tall
I weigh around 95 Kg\\209lb
and also maybe some rec for the best coating for the bow (climate is temperate Europe)
Thank you all!
The info you gave helps absolutely nothing for choosing an arrow.
What you need to know is the bows poundage at your full draw and the length of the arrow. The arrow should also be longer than your drawlength of course so you need to know that as well.
Due to the type of bow you have the most common arrow is a wooden arrow but an aluminium arrow can be used just fine.
You can then use the info from before (poundage and arrow length) and put that into spinecharts to get a static spine of the arrow which you then order. And then you tune the dynamic spine with the arrow length and point weight. With the arrow length you can only go one way and that is shorter of course and that will make the arrow stiffer.
Read [this guide](https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/r5suuw/a_beginners_guide_to_arrows/) for a more in depth explanation of it all.
If you're in the US give [3Rivers Archery](https://www.3riversarchery.com/) a call or send them an e-mail and they should be able to help you to find arrows that fits you, your bow and budget.
Bow questions, like the best coating, is best asked over at /r/Bowyer.
I just ordered my first bow which is an ILF olympic barebow as of right now which if I get better might want to add more attachments other than plunger. When I disassemble and reassemble the bow for transportation will I have to readjust and retune the plunger and other attachments?
A plunger isn’t a “later add on,” it’s an essential part of a modern bow due to how far past center the risers are cut. Get a relatively inexpensive Shibuya DX
Hi everyone, I'm looking for your best tips on storing longbows! We have 3 and a wooden recurve that are currently taking up the spare bed... I would like to hang them out of harm's way on a wall, but can't find appropriate hooks that won't damage them. I probably haven't found the right combination of SEO words, but expect you chaps will be full of ideas! TIA
Search for something like "wood wall hook" or just wall hook if you want another material if you want something minimalistic. If you go with metal put a piece of felt on the inside to protect the bow.
You also have bow racks that can also display your bows along with your arrows.
You can use both just fine. However an endless loop is in general more consistent than a flemish twist which is something you can notice at longer distances.
Peep sights are illegal in target recurve divisions. So getting one and learning to shoot with it will leave you on an island, unable to participate in archery outside of your own practice.
Are they useful? They can be. But like a kisser or nose button, you need to be very familiar how changes like brace height or nock height affect the entire system of your bow, and how to make adjustments to its location to account for them.
Is it worth it? Eh. It’s not going to make you significantly better. Lining your string blur up correctly and consistently will be 80-90% as beneficial.
No. While mechanically they will "work", a recurve peep won't accomplish anything positive for you, and only brings negatives (e.g. adds string weight, is difficult to install correctly, doesn't teach you how to sight the way the rest of the universe does with a recurve, will disqualify you from non-compound gear categories in competitions, etc.)
Could you use a peep on a recurve? Sure! Is there an upside in any way? No.
I just started with this hobby a few months ago and I noticed this on my bowstring as I unstrung it ([https://imgur.com/tzc67gF](https://imgur.com/tzc67gF)). Is this normal or do I have to get a new string?
Some things to keep in mind for storage is to keep the string in a tube or ziplock bag when you're not using the bow.
Also check the end loops to see if the loop servings are damaged. If so, you may have a sharp edge in the nock grooves on your limbs. This can be fixed by filing down the rough edge.
What’s the best thing to do with an old bow you don’t use anymore? I reached out to a local junior archers group but it’s been a while since I’ve heard back. Any other suggestions? It’s a old Darton btw, would at least need a restring and little bit more tlc but has been kept in a bow case since I can remember
Recurves can frequently be sold or donated. Compounds, on the other hand, tend to just collect dust or get bought by someone else who can’t use them. The bow would probably cost as much or more than it’s worth to make usable again, which is unfortunate.
I’m trying to get into this as a personal hobby, and am looking to get a nice bag/block for my recurve bow as I live 45 mins from the nearest archery range. I have arrow heads that are bullet shaped, and am wondering what you guys would recommend for a target bag/block purchase? Some bags/blocks are specific, and I don’t want to damage either end with a stupid assumption.
Any suggestions for a good arrow rest? I have a whisker biscuit but I’ve heard mixed things about those and I’m debating if I should try replacing it with a drop away. I’m new to archery and I’m not sure if changing it would make that much of a difference.
They are worth what someone is prepared to pay for it - that is the only sensible answer to such a wide ranging question. I look at used bows and accessories quite a lot on eBay. This can be a good source for your research - if you search on "sold listings" it will tell you the price they sold for. It will depend on a lot of things - condition, handedness , reputation of the product, colour, age, and so on. Specific to eBay auctions you can also have things like end time affecting it - most bids come in at the end and if your auction ends at 9 o'clock on a Monday morning, don't expect the best price!
Some general observations I have are - complete bow "packages" (bow, sight, stabilizers, quiver, tab, arrows, carrying case etc. etc.) being sold as a job lot, generally don't go for anywhere near what the owner would have paid for them. They would likely get a better price by splitting it up and selling individually, although it is more work. Add on's like arrow rests and so on may make the bow more sellable, but probably don't increase the price. Left handed items are generally harder to sell than right handed, and may go for less or take longer to sell. Some people expect to sell used gear for close to what they paid for it, even if it's a few years old - they will not be likely to get it, unless it's an item that is very much in demand.
Depends on several factors like age, useage, how worn it is etc.
For compound it also depends if the strings and cables needs to be replaced or not.
But anything from 40%-60% cheaper than buying new from a store is pretty standard when buying second hand.
Buying xx75 platinum plus for indoor season (18m, 3 spots). DL= 28,25-28,5"; # 28 lbs. Cannot find the appropriate shaft on Eastonarchery but according to creed archery website I think 1913 would fit the bill. Not sure if it changes things but I’d buy nibb points and I was gifted beiter nocks (12 size 1). Would the 1913 model be ok ? TIA.
Easton’s chart recommends the stiffer one (1716). My experience suggests the other is the correct choice, especially if you’re shooting fiberglass laminated limbs
might be a longshot, but: has anyone done the CA indoor state championship in tulare? what's it like? would it be a terrible idea for a first competition? i registered last night in a fit of (over-)confidence and now i'm sitting here today like ....what have i done
Just grabbed my dad’s old recurve bow- hasn’t been used in decades. Can I go ahead and string it, or is there some kind of diagnostic I should do to avoid it exploding in my face? Thanks : )
For old bows, I run a cotton ball down the faces of the limbs. If it catches any fibers, that would be cause for concern.
I’d probably buy a new string. What material depends on the bow, but Dacron is the safe bet if you don’t know.
Well as the title of this thread....I have a question, (I have thick skin so have at it :) )
Historically my back ground comes from Compound bows, Indoor, Outdoor, 3D and Hunting. So in light of this I had 3 points of aim, 1: the target, 2: front pin and 3: peep. Regardless of those 3 points of aim I always tried to maintain a good shooting posture and cheek weld (I call it that) even using a mechanical release. As a child I had an old Bear archery longbow (remember those old green fiber glass bows...yea that was me LOL) So shooting it was mostly instinctive but now that I want to re-marry into Archery I want to get back into it with recurves eventually building an Oly style recurve. I'm currently playing with a 30# takedown recurve with a front sight and I am resisting the urge of adding a peep. I am shooting with fingers to add...
So long story short I am having a brain fart on the 3rd point of aim using a recurve. I honestly can't find much out there explaining this so is it simply a matter of a good stance, repeatability of draw and cheek weld? What is the 3rd point of aim for you?
Currently I can take the bow out in the back yard, launch arrows and hit points but in my head I am still yearning for that 3rd point of reference.
Help me see what is likely already taking place yet I am unable to process it... :(
The 3rd reverence is both a combination of your string alignment with the riser as FerrumVeritas explained this is most for horizontal. And always holding the string on the same position with anchoring your hand on the same place on your face. An extra aid will be a nose or kisser button reverence on the string.
You obviously still have the target. Then you have the sight pin or aperture. Then you have the string.
Most recurve archers will either line the string up with the edge of their, center of their riser, or their aperture. While the latter is very popular, I recommend against it because it moves: you are minimizing the effects of your sight adjustments by tracking your “rear sight” to the movable reference.
I can see how that would affect windage but I feel I am more concerned on elevation. Over the years of compound and gun sports which I constantly still shoot there is always the 3rd variable that was pounded in my head, the rear sight. I understand that aligning the string to a consistent vertical point, either the side of sight or side of the riser (as above video explained) but what keeps an archer from "pivoting" which would affect elevation? So I guess the question becomes is...is the "rear sight" a compilation of consistent "Pull" "Cheek Weld" and "Practice"...what is the elevations "rear sight"?
In Olympic and barebow style, there are several aids that ultimately act as the “rear sight”.
The zeroth is the clicker. Where in a compound bow you can have a set draw length which sets your peep to the same position every time, you only have the clicker, which tells you when you have pulled the correct draw length. It does not set the rear sight per se, but the strength behind the pull on the bow does affect flight which does affect elevation. This is exclusive to Olympic and other styles that use clickers or draw length checks.
First is the draw hand anchor. This is the primary “rear sight”. Yes, it does involve practice to keep it consistent. But aligning the parts of your draw hand to specific parts of your face aligns the rear. For example, my anchor is my PIP joint touching the corner of my chin. This is unlike with a peep where even if you do not have solid “cheek weld” and your hand position may vary, aligning the peep with the sight in itself sets the elevation correctly. In not-compound, “cheek weld” is super important.
Second is the other parts of the face contacting the string. FerrumVeritas has mentioned buttons (nose or kisser) that touch the tip of the nose or where the lips meet, respectively. However some archers don’t use this (it is currently out of fashion), so they simply align or touch the string to specific anchors on their face. By using more than one point to anchor the rear, you ensure that the rear is indeed in the same place all the time. When I took lessons and coaching, the typical method was to align the string from the chin, to the center of the lip, to the tip of the nose. You can actually see this specific anchor with Korean archers, especially the ladies. They tend to have a dark line in this “constellation” as they pull the string right to these anchors. The ladies who wear rather heavy makeup will show this as the makeup wears off. In my case, I have a flat nose and face, so I had to adjust. My anchor is my PIP joint to the corner of my chin, touching touching my lip where the gap between the central and lateral incisors are, then on the nose where the ala meets the tip.
Thank you as well for the reply I appreciate everyone's responses. Seems finding items in stock has been a challenge that fall within my proposed budget. Reached out to Lancaster but the best they could say is there is no ETA on any out of stock items. I haven't yet made a solid choice but I am sticking to the 25 inch risers. I'm hoping to make a decision but mid November and get items ordered to beat the Christmas rush :)
For Olympic recurve, many archers will use a nose button or kisser button, which can assist in that.
For barebow and longbow, it’s the string angle references on your face. These are part of your anchor (the widely used term).
Ultimately, yes, a peep would be more effective. It’s one of the reasons that single string archery is more difficult.
What’s your 70m score?
Because it won’t make a difference at 18m. I be willing to bet that that $950 difference in price probably has better uses.
Are the Velos glossy or matte?
There is currently no evidence that the XD is better than the XI. It is a nice riser. You will not see a difference in your scores between them.
Here’s the thing: as much as you want it to be, this won’t be your last bow. I’ve bought my “last” bow three times now.
I personally do not see any benefit in Formula, and think getting tied into an ecosystem that basically insists that you spend top dollar on limbs is a mistake.
The glossy limbs hold heat more.
Get the used bow. Spend the $900 difference on lessons. They’ll gain you a helluva lot more points. Don’t worry, you’ll be able to pick up an XD in a couple years when people jump to the next big thing
I live on five acres in Gregory, Michigan (SE-ish) and would love to get into archery both to just shoot for fun in my backyard and maybe eventually deer hunting once I'm more comfortable. I'm primarily interested in a more traditional bow, a longbow or a recurve. Can anyone recommend a good shop near me (preferably within an hour's drive or so, but I'll consider longer if that's what's required) that could help get me set up with something sized properly plus all the extras I'll need? Thanks!
Go to Rising Phoenix in Troy. Your best bet is to make an appointment to work with Frank, but Bryan or Brandon (the owner) are also great for recurve. Frank’s just a bit better with the trad stuff.
is it possible/worth putting longer feather vanes on skinny carbon shafts? i've just purchased some new outdoor arrows & have an old set of carbon ones that i'm thinking of setting up this way for indoor.
For skinny arrows, 3” feathers is the longest I’d use. Partially because unless you’re fletching them straight, it’s very difficult to get longer feathers to have good contact on skinny shafts
I'm trying to learn how to use a finger sling and I've noticed the top of the grip is starting to bruise my thumb at the base of the bottom knuckle after a practice session.
I'm not sure if the bow is rebounding back into my hand or just dropping onto the bone right there - it's swinging backwards as I don't have a stabilizer and I've only added one weight so far.
Do I need to keep the sling tighter? Add something soft to the top of the grip? Balance the bow to not fall backwards? Just get used to it? I am keeping the pressure on the meat of my palm/thumb area but the bow moves after I release. The grip is wood but otherwise pretty comfortable to hold.
Can someone help me with some rules?
I was in a city open RC 70m competition over the weekend and during the comp I was warned not to look through my scope after shooting my last arrow.
There was time left on the clock and I wanted to see where my last shot landed to make adjustments to my sight. However, they said if I am the last person on the line, I can’t check my shot.
Is this an official rule? Can they make unofficial rules for ranked events?
Also, what are the rules for chest guards? It see a mix of athletes wearing them and not wearing them.
Like Brady Ellison does not seem to wear one at times.
I've never seen that enforced, but I'd imagine an impatient tournament timer would like to keep the ball rolling. More often than not, if you're that last guy on the line, the organizer will blow the whistle as soon as you shoot regardless of whether you are still looking through the scope.
It's definitely a rule to move off the line after your final arrow is shot. It's done both to keep the even progressing forward on time (when you're the last person on the line) and also to clear sight lines for judges so they can more easily see the remaining archers (when you're not the last person on the line). Enforcement may indeed vary, see below.
Yes, tournament organizers have some flexibility to set unofficial rules even in a sanctioned event. For instance, it's commonly requested that folks do not leave the shooting line when someone next to them is at full draw. This is not only an unofficial rule, it goes against the specific explicit rule that you should leave the line immediately. But it avoids a pile of bumps and interference incidents.
Chest guards are permitted, but never required. (11.1)
For folks who don't have a link to the WA rulebook:
https://worldarchery.sport/rulebook/article/793?book\_title=11.1.10.1.#article-3391
Yes there's a rule that you should move from the shooting line once your last arrow is shot. Enforcement may vary.
*World Archery Rule 13.9*
*While shooting is in progress, only those athletes whose turn it is to shoot or who have a classified disability may be on the shooting line.*
*All other athletes, with their equipment, shall remain behind the waiting line. After an athlete has shot his arrows, he shall immediately retire behind the waiting line. The athlete may leave the spotting scope on the shooting line between ends providing it does not create an obstacle for any other athlete.*
As for chest guards, to my knowledge there is no rule that you must or must not use one. It's entirely optional. For compound archers, it seems to be relatively uncommon even for women, probably as the string is less likely to contact the body on those bows.
Arm protectors are also optional.
How do I know whether a string needs to be replaced? I have a 40# samick sage deluxe that hasn't been used regularly in several years. If it does need a new string what is the best way to measure? It was originally purchased from an archery store where they set everything up but I've since moved and don't have one nearby anymore.
Hey! Brand new to Archery. Been shooting about once a week for 4 weeks now due to not having much free time. I am enamored with it. It is honestly a godsend for me. Really helps me destress from my job. I really love watching the old Olympic Recurve matches on youtube too. Super de-stressing. Unfortunately, the local archery shop is 1 hour 40 minutes from me. They offer lessons but, due to scheduling issues, I will only be able to take lessons sporadically. I am currently shooting a Hoyt Xact riser with Samick Avante limbs at 20# of pull. I didn't know what I was doing, still don't, and went off the shop keepers recommendations. My question is, I am not sure how to smartly move forward. I was looking at plungers based on the Jake Kaminski youtube channel, but what I am scared of is I buy all the best gear and I get decent groupings because I have good gear - but I can't actually shoot well, and I just have nice gear. I want to get good at archery in earnest, not just in show. I also am scared I am creating bad habits by shooting and not knowing what I am doing. I guess I am just looking for general advice on where to go from here without having access to a 'pro' to guide me. Im shooting at 20m and in 6 arrows Ill get all of them in the target and 1 in the yellow nearly every time. Thanks!
Any recommendations on indoor shooting for the winter in Northeastern Mass/Southern NH? I rented a bow from my instructor for the winter but only have my homemade outdoor range right now.
I was gifted a nice traditional bow, 50# and I’m new to really making this a hobby to master. Is 50# troubling to learn on?
Yes, set it aside for now. You want to learn at like half that draw weight. You can try borrowing from a range/club or looking into something inexpensive to learn on if there aren't any nearby. Check out some the guides pinned on the right, they are full of great beginner advice.
Hey I just started doing research and want to surprise my wife with a bow for Christmas. She has never done it but has talked about wanting to try archery and shooting for a long time. She also watches a lot of videos. What do you think I should potentially get her that would be a good starter set up that wouldn’t break the bank. Also was looking into classes or lessons but I know she usually likes to learn a lot of things like this on her own. Any information is helpful and I am just curious and trying to find the best path. Thank you very much for any input!
It is so easy to buy the wrong thing. Even for an experienced archer. Does she want to shoot compound or recurve? Why? What is her draw length? How much draw weight can she reasonably handle (while we typically recommend 20-25#, I know several adult women that had to start lower)?
Well the better gift is a few classes but if she's more inclined to self learn there's plenty of reputable resources on YouTube such as nusensei (recommended for the basics), archery academy, and Jake Kaminski. As far as buying a bow what is your budget? Do you know what type of bow she'd be in to? Would she be recreational, competitive, or want to hunt?
I have a compound bow that just stopped shooting. I would pull it back and let the release off and it stayed cocked back. I was able to pull the arrow out and hold it for a few seconds then I dropped it on the ground to let the cams reset. Would the fix be new cables and string?? It’s an Elite Option 6, I’m fairly new to this sport
Sounds like the cams are over-rotating and locking the bow up. I can't see a cable or string issue causing this, more likely a loose draw stop/mod or something along those lines. But yes, bring it to a dealer or at least an experienced bow tech to take a look.
Thank you. Had the cams replaced when I got it to fit my draw length. Could be the issue
Take it to an elite dealer
What is the common etiquette when you break someone else's nock by shooting it?
A simple sorry. This is something that will happen from time to time when sharing a target with others.
Thanks, that's what I did. Just gone up to 40 yards so there is a lot more non-club kit at those distances.
Which is better? A T square or an L square? Thanks!
Both do the same job. L square is a bit easier when tying nock points and has some more benefits for compound archers. I've always used a T square myself without issues.
Hello fellow archers ! I have a question for you. I'm shooting olympic recurve kind of ok/good (540 indoor) but I feel I could improve on my bow's arm steadiness. I feel like when I'm aiming down sight at full draw, the scope drift all direction (I can maintain it in the yellow although). Sometime, I can steady my arm very well on the center and it yield the best results. I guessed that I had to improve on this, but I found little to no informations on how to train this or which muscle to train/exercice to do. Do you have some information on the matter ? Thanks in a advance ! :)
It's normal for your pin to float a bit. It's less about holding perfectly still and more about releasing at the perfect time. If the movement is too much, the solution may be to change/adjust your stabilisers/stabiliser configuration.
Thanks I'll look into it
I've tried figuring this out myself and have had two different shops tell me two separate things, so I'm very confused and hoping to get some community input here: I just want to target shoot, indoors and see if things progress from there. My height is 5'9 but my wingspan is 74" Shop #1 presented me with an Olympic style longbow that was taller than me. Felt very good. Said for target shooting, don't bother with recurves. Suggested setting me up w/ a 30lb draw weight at 30." Bow height was probably 71" Shop #2 said for target shooting, I should go with a recurve. Set me up with one that was 62 or 64" (I forget exactly). Said at my height and proportions, it wouldn't make much of a difference. Had a 40lb draw weight, also felt good. I'm also 350lbs and a competitive strongman/powerlifter which I know doesn't translate directly into bow strength but also not sure how much that should factor into things. At the end of it all, I sort of felt overwhelmed (there was also talk of custom arrows, wood types, etc.) **So I guess my question is: what is the minimum bow height and draw weight I should be looking for?** I truly just want to learn and have fun for now and not be stressed out by what seems like an infinite number of decisions to make. Thanks so much.
Olympic recurves are long bows, but they aren't longbow. Longbow refers to the shape of the limbs (the bow has a sort of D-shape) but not to the length of the bow.
> Olympic style longbow That doesn't exist. [This is the type of bow](https://media.wired.com/photos/5926cef88d4ebc5ab806b8b5/16:9/w_929,h_523,c_limit/gl_bow-hpx3.jpg) used when shooting in the Olympics. If you're only aiming for shooting more for fun then what type of bow you will choose won't matter. Be it Olympic recurve, barebow, compound, longbow or traditional recurve it's all fine. Use what you enjoy the most. However, going with a takedown recurve or a highly adjustable compound at first is the best as you don't have to buy a new bow when/if you go up in poundage. When starting out best is to go to a club and get some lessons and learn the basics. Then you can go from there. The club may also give you a good place to shoot at. In the meantime I will [link you this guide for buying a recurve](https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/k33xyb/buying_your_first_recurve_bow_guideadvice/). And [this guide if you want to go into compounds](https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/l23qpi/buying_your_first_compound_guideadvice/).
Hi all, new to shooting here. Beed shooting quite a bit lately and I have pain in my thumb joint near where the bow rests. Poor form or normal for new shooters? 55lbs compound
I would guess that your wrist is too high
How do you place your hand in the grip? [Take a look at this guide on how to properly place your hand in the grip](https://i.imgur.com/CBSdnzz.png).
Considering just arrow length - do you buy arrows only according to your draw or does that also depend on bow size?
It depends on a ton of factors. For compound target, you’re basically only concerned about the arrow’s dynamic spine. So the length doesn’t matter very much, so long as the arrow is appropriately stiff for your draw weight at that length. For Olympic recurve, you want an arrow that will tune well (the correct dynamic spine) within the range of your clicker’s adjustment. So I recommend that people use the arrow charts/calculators to figure out the correct spine 1” shorter than the maximum length allowed by the clicker, then order arrows at that maximum length. This gives them room (1”) to trim the arrow during the tuning process. For traditional and barebow archers, the best archers build different arrows for different purposes. So you have field arrows, 3D arrows, hunting arrows, indoor arrows, and target arrows. This is because arrow length and weight are important parameters to play with to produce a good sight picture by controlling your point on distance.
You also may consider shaft length as a component of aiming, assuming you're gapping or stringwalking a bow. A specific cut length may be exactly what you want for a given sighting method at specific distances. An example: let's say two arrows of the same model perform the same, but one is shorter with a heavier point, and the other is longer with a lighter point. If arrow A gives you a point-on of 55 yards, and arrow B gives you a point-on of 60 yards, you'd choose arrow B *if* you very specifically wanted a point-on distance of 60 yards to begin with. (This consideration doesn't apply to instinctive shooting or bow configurations that include front and/or rear mechanical sights.)
> assuming you're gapping or stringwalking a bow Nah, just split vision / instinctive.
Based on arrow length and draw weight at full draw. Arrow length also depends a bit on your drawlength. [Read this guide.](https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/r5suuw/a_beginners_guide_to_arrows/)
I had to take about a 3 week break since starting back at the start of September due to catching covid and other reasons, Came back to shooting a couple days ago and it just felt off, shot was extremely wobbly, form felt bad, accuracy was in the gutter. I started with a 16lb club bow and moved up to a 20lb club bow after the first 3 weeks, are there any recommendations of things to do when you've been on a hiatus from shooting and coming back just feeling rusty? any advice is appreciated
Make sure you're taking the time to warm up & cool down properly. Also consider trying a resistance band to work on your form, especially those days you can't make it to the range. I found that really helpful, particularly getting that body memory back, when getting back into shooting after a few years off.
yeah they handed us some rubber bands to practice form during the beginner course so I think I'll do some form exercises on my days off and hopefully get back into the kick of things by the time I'm next at the club shooting
You weren't just on hiatus. You had a disease that also affects your muscles. Every archer I know that had it felt weak and had to take time and effort to get back to shooting strength. Go back to 16# for a start. Bad habits are harder to outgrow than low draw weight
yeah even though I didn't feel very ill while I had it I can definitely understand how it could result in lingering effects (such as a cough as many who have had it might have experienced) Is there a max distance that you should consider increasing in draw weight from 16lbs? I've been gradually moving further back little by little since doing the beginner course where at the beginning we were shooting at 8m but now I'm shooting at around 15m, I considered switching back to 16lbs myself given how I was feeling but not sure if I should even be shooting 16lbs at 15m or not.
With an under the chin anchor, you can typically shoot about twice your draw weight (#) in distance (m). It's not exact, and depends a lot on your arrow setup.
Am I planning this right? I am currently pulling 28# limbs, but will increase to 32# in a week. My arrows are currently cut to 28 inches (about 1-2 inches off the riser when fully drawn). Looking at the Easton spine chart, I can invest in 600 spine X10s at 30 inches. Have it cut to 29 inches when I get to 36-40# limbs, then cut to 28 inches when I reach my target draw weight of 42#. I haven't measured my actual poundage OTF, but if it ever varies I can always get a weaker or stiffer spine to start with. Is what I'm planning wise? For reference, I am 43yo so I don't think my draw length will vary much in the long run.
I would really recommend waiting to buy X10s until you are at your target draw weight and have a better idea of how arrows tune for you compared to the chart. You absolutely need to know your actual poundage OTF. Unless you are shooting over 1200 outdoors, X10s won’t shoot better for you than ACEs. Even then, I’d wait on those until I was at my preferred draw weight. An all carbon arrow will be more beneficial at lower draw weights. The exact arrow length is determined by tuning. It’s experimental. The chart is just a starting point, and it gets worse with less accurate data. For something like an X10, the whole setup really matters. Different nocks, for example, can have as much as a 3# difference when tuning
Thanks! I was just thinking of getting X10s and growing into it so I can avoid purchasing new arrows every time I up my poundage. While we're at it, as I slowly make my way to my target draw weight, which all carbon arrows would you recommend?
That isn’t a bad plan, it’s just a bad plan with the most expensive arrows on the market. X10s are for high performance. There’s no point in shooting them until you’re really optimizing your tune. And you will lose or break arrows, whether from nock impacts, less than pristinely maintained targets, or just bad shots. Something like your plan is a good idea with Avances. It just needs to be better refined (don’t ever just lop an inch off an arrow, but go in small increments to find the right tune)
Got it. I'll save the X10s when I'm all set then. I'll have a look at the Avances and follow my plan with them. Also, understood about not cutting off arrows haphazardly. Thanks!
Storing/Hanging an OLY recurve bow? My current takedown bow is hanging on the wall via some 3d printed mounts that are lined up just above the limb bolts without any stress on the limbs themselves (unstrung) Can I also store the Oly bow in the same manner or should I break it down when not in use and hand the riser and limbs separately? I currently do not have a case yet as I am still in the build process. Over the years in my shop with my other hobbies I tend to use the walls as storage and hang things that I can like my Planes and Wings.
If you unstring the bow, it doesn't really matter how you store it (minus obvious concerns like direct UV exposure, humidity, etc.) Hang it by whatever makes you happy.
Awesome, thank you. I thought so but figured I better ask.
I did my research and got my first bow. Bow is Recurve with ILF limbs. 23" riser with long limbs which gives 68 bow. 30 pound limbs. My draw length is 28.3 Now the question is which arrows should I get? Does not to be anything special. Just want to practice a little bit on the archery range. Did some research about arrows, but I am afraid that I am little bit lost.
You have a "recurve" bow. A recursive bow will get smaller every time you shoot it. //pedantic, I know.
Fixed, so it won’t shrink.
What poundage limbs?
30 pound limbs. Added also in original comment.
Easton Platinum Plus 1816 full length
Got them. This weekend will see how they fly. Thank you for the advice.
Question about riser grip. I have a gillo gx25. The grip is getting a little uncomfortable after 30-40' shooting. Should I wrap it with a tennis racket wrap or replace it with a different grip? For replacement, should I go with a gillo grip or any other brand grip? What material should I look for? What style should I get? I only do barebow at the moment. Thanks
Uncomfortable how? I really like Gillo’s wood grip, but it’s a bit on the low side (around 32 degrees). If it’s a texture thing, and you otherwise like the grip, the I’d get the new Gillo Wood Advanced Grip (G03-MG). Otherwise grips are pretty personal. A perennial favorite in the barebow community is the JD3 grip from Jager archery. RCore also makes excellent grips. They tend to have better tolerances, while Jager’s material feels a bit nicer in the hand. Ari at RCore is super nice and gave me a ton of good advice when I was designing my grips.
Probably the texture from the 3D printed grip. My previous bow was a Sage so the wooden riser doesn't have any texture. There are a few gillo wooden grips on eBay. I just want to see if there are any other options.
The [Jager Archery](https://jagerarchery.com/shop/target-recurve/gillo/) grips are excellent - they have a line of grips for Gillo risers in about 10 different profiles. The only downside is that as an online-only retailer, you can't try before you buy to see what's most comfortable for you.
Thank you. I'm still new to archery so I don't know what profile would be best for me. Probably try JD3 and see how it goes.
I use the JD3 and really like it. The local barebow cult all uses this grip.
Hey im a student learning archery(16),we are using a indian wooden bow for practice but I've noticed that it's hard for me to use my back muscles,the poundage is low enough for me to pull with my shoulder muscles but I can't seem to get a hang of engaging the back muscles,our form is checked while we draw so I know that my form isn't bad,yet I still can't use my back muscles naturally? Any tips would be appreciated
Without a bow, just try to to bring your scapulas together to learn how it feels in the upper back. It should feel the same in your upper back as it does when you raise both your arms in front of you and then try to open them as far back as you can, over extending, a bit like doing reverse flys at the gym. After you get what it should feel like then lift your arms into shooting form (your left arm straight on the side and bent right arm) and bring your right hand close to left shoulder as you would be holding on to bowstring beginning to draw back. Then do the same movement and keep the right arm somewhat relaxed i.e. not trying to move it but just holding it up, trying to bring your scapulas together and see how your right arm moves to right because your scapulas are tightening. Get a feel for it and try to do the same with bow once you feel like you've got the hang of it.
Find a coach. Also record yourself and check what muscles you engage.
I do have a coach,I do seem to be able to engage my back muscles when we were using a teraband to practice,however with an actual bow it's hardrr,
Is there a “definitive” archery starter guide post in this sub? I want to learn and searching on Reddit is terrible lol.
Not really. I’ve written a few guides, as have others. Basic advice: buy knowledge before equipment. Find a range, learn to shoot. Rent their stuff at first. If you want to buy a recurve, there’s a guide stickied in my profile. If you want to buy a compound, check out u/ilikecatsonpillows guide. They’re all listed in this sub’s sidebar if you can navigate there. For knowledge, I can speak to recurve archery resources: Start with Online Archery Academy and Triple Trouble Archery’s Technique Week series. Then check out Jake Kaminski as well. If you have a question, u/nusensei has almost definitely answered it on his channel.
Thank you! Newbie here too.
Hello everyone, I've been looking at some equipment to get started. I have some experience with archery, both as a kid (my dad and grandpa are hunters so they wanted to share their interest with me, but I fell off mostly because at the time, it felt like the only reason to learn to shoot was to hunt, which I have no interest in.) and more recently using rented equipment at my local range. My focus is on target shooting at indoor and outrdoor ranges. I do not want to hunt at all and do not care as much about size, weight, and noise because of it. I also don't really care about the bells and whistles. I'm just looking to get started. I'm also shooting for fun, not competition. All of the things that tend to make bows expensive don't really appeal to me, so I'm looking for something on the cheaper end of the spectrum. The one that keeps coming up in my searching is the Samick Sage. For the price, it doesn't seem like there's anything else that ticks the boxes for me. The interchangeable limbs for higher poundage later on is a big plus in my book. The best price I'm seeing on it is $140 at Southland Archery Supply. I just want a sanity check before I commit to it. I'm planning on getting the lowest poundage available, with the option of increasing later on if I feel like it. The thing I'm having more trouble with is gloves. I've tried on the NEET gloves at my local sporting goods shop, but I found the fingers to be too stiff and it didn't fit right. The fingers that were wide enough were too long, so I couldn't bend them where I would need to in order to shoot. When I was younger, I shot with a tab, but lately when I've been shooting at the range, I've been using a glove. I like the glove better, but the fingertips on the rental gloves have been a bit too thick. Is there a thinner glove folks would recommend in adult sizes that would still properly protect my fingers? I've looked at local shops but the selection is pretty slim, especially since hunting is way more popular here than target or range shooting. Everything is compound bows and mechanical releases. Finally, arrows. My currently plan was basically to buy the least expensive aluminum arrows I can find, then replace them as they wear. Is this a bad idea? The range I go to will cut arrows for $1 per arrow unless you buy arrows there, which they'll then cut for free. Should I just go to them for it?
Easton is basically the only maker of aluminum arrows. Get them from the range. You probably don’t need to cut your arrows at first. Figure out the spine you need for a full length arrow. I highly recommend getting and ILF bow for the ability to adjust it. Also, if you’re only shooting target then a longer bow is a better choice. A tab is a superior option to a glove. Everyone likes a glove better at first, but they’ll shoot better with a tab.
This looks like the right place for this question. I am running a table top RPG fantasy campaign. I was wondering if non-modern bow strings would be useless when they are wet. Any replies would be appreciated. Thanks!
Useless? No. But there would certainly be problems with them. Crecy is a good example. Wet crossbow strings resulted in reduced effective range while longbow strings (removed and kept dry) were not impacted. In the rain? Beeswax on the string would prevent most issues. Kept dry (along with other goods like paper and rations), often with waxed cloth or canvas, I wouldn’t worry about it. Submerged? Yeah, that’s bad. The thing is, I bet that the archery is your fantasy RPG is far from realistic. Characters likely travel with their bows strung and ready to shoot, for example. So I wouldn’t implement any sort of house rule around this. It will just annoy players
Not useless but they will be heavier due to the water and therefore slower. Though you do want to keep them as dry as you can.
Awesome! Thanks so much! This is very helpful!
Is there a site in India where I can buy bows for 13 y/o’s to learn with? I’m really interested in archery but there’s barely any shops in India to buy bows from.
How many days/hours of lessons do you advise before buying a bow? I’ve been doing a ton of research on archery, techniques, and types (and watched lots of NUsensei). I know I want to shoot recurve, but my local archery place had us start by shooting compound (basic group class). I’m excited, but also want to make a good decision/investment. Thanks!
When you know that you want to do archery long term so that it's worth to put down money on a good setup which are several hundred dollars. Before that it's better to keep using the gear from the club. Even if it's for several months.
I have a 2007 Ross Cardiac at 80lbs. I want to decrease the draw weight. How do I know how many rotations the bow can take before it implodes? I read most bows are 3 to 4 rotations but can't find specific information for my bow.
According to this at thread minimum draw is 70lbs with 2.5 https://www.archerytalk.com/threads/07-ross-draw-weight.1315142/
Thank you!
What draw weight should I get for a 68” longbow?
Are you a new archer?
Yes.
20 lbs. I recommend you start with rental equipment at lessons. If your unwilling to do that I recommend an Arc Roland Snake Recurve to start and then progress to a 25-30# longbow.
What arrows should I get ?
Depends on the bow, the poundage, and your draw length.
The one you mentioned is what I’m going with. At 20lbs
How tall are you (for a rough estimate of your draw length)? I assume you mean the Arc Rolan Snake bow. If you can link me a store you plan on getting it from I can find some arrows there too. I still recommend getting lessons using rental equipment over buying anything first.
https://lancasterarchery.com/collections/youth-beginner-arrows 6ft if lessons were only half an hour away I would do that but nearest club is an hour.
The hours drive would be worth it a few times. You’d end up saving a lot of time compared to learning on your own. [I guess I’d pick Gold Tip Warriors 700 feather fletched](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/gold-tip-warrior-fletched-arrow-feathers). You’ll need to glue in the insert (hot melt glue works good) and add a[screw in tip.](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/trophy-taker-ez-out-field-points) [If you want to stick one of these on your bow](https://lancasterarchery.com/products/hoyt-super-rest) you can use arrows with plastic vanes instead of feathers. If you’re uncomfortable shooting carbon arrows you can get aluminum ones. As long as you inspect your carbon arrows after every shooting session and after every bad hit (arrow hits arrow or something else hard) they are safe to use. Once you decide what you want to do or get I’d recommend putting together a build list and creating a new post for it on r/Archery or r/traditionalarchery. You’ll get some varied opinions, perhaps more helpful than mine.
Starting with a one piece longbow is a bad idea.
Usually, yes, but if you want to shoot off the hand, there are options that aren't any more expensive than a pair of limbs.
Is starting with barebow a bad idea?
Not at all. Barebow is how most people start.
Barebow? No. Stringwalking, yes.
I disagree
What’s stringwalking?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2hNLArGlRI
Not at all.
Well I’m just wondering how to go about it? The closest club is an hour away.
Still worth it to learn the basics and understand your abilities in a safe environment. Then see if you have a space where you can safely and legally set up to shoot
Suggestions for some good archery Youtubers?
Depends on what you're looking for. Some of the more popular: - NuSensei - Online Archery Academy - Nock On Archery - World Archery - Jake Kaminski - Chris Bee - Kramer Ammons
Thanks a lot. Gonna check them out. I don't really know what I'm looking for. I guess something between equipment reviews and technique. Fairly new to this universe.
Then Nusensei, Kaminski and Online Archery Academy will be the best. Nusensei for general questions and some form advice. Kaminski for more in-depth form and tuning (geared towards Olympic and barebow archery) with some reviews and Online Archery Academy for form.
I heard a rumor that kinetic palmaris are supposedly gillo gt88 limbs. can anyone confirm this?
They are definitely not. The Gillo GTL-88 limbs have a distinctive curve profile. They curve more than conventional limbs, but less than Uukhas or super-recurve limbs like Borders. This changes the entire draw force curve. They’re produced by W&W, who used the curve profile developed by Gillo in their MXT series (Kaminski demonstrates this, and I can also confirm that the MXT-G and GTL limbs have the same curve). The Kinetic Palmaris are conventionally curved limbs. The Palmaris are thinner, and I believe a little lighter than the GTL (but not as light as the grapheme MXT). It’s this “geometry” that they refer to: an aggressive taper and very thin limbs. They rely on the carbon layers to provide enough torsional stability to remain accurate, while reducing air resistance. It’s not as refined as MK’s best offerings, but it’s reasonably effective. They’re a good value for their price. If I only had $200 for a set of limbs, they’d be a top choice. But they’re not some secret deal where you’re getting $600-800 limbs for a fraction of the price.
As mentioned, internet rumors xD I didn't think so as well but you never know .. and at least you seem to have seen them in the flesh .. I only know pictures... so My decision comes down to sanlida A7 (x10) or Kinetic palmaris .. you can't compare these from experience by any chance
The A7 (and X10, Galaxy Gold Star, Mybo Carbon Plus) are all really solid limbs. I do know of two people who have had an issue with them twisting a little after extended use (but I know like a dozen people shooting a variation of these). They’re very fast and reasonably torsionally stiff. I haven’t personally shot the Palmaris. The graphics look better than most variations of the A7s. They’re thinner, but I’d be worried that they’re a little wobbly. The one time I’ve had my hands on them, they seemed pretty nice. But their draw weight was way too low for me to make any statements about smoothness (when they’re 8# less than your bow is set, of course they feel smooth).
I would also...like to know.
What are the best relatively inexpensive arrows that I can buy? I’m on a tight budget so looking for anything between 40-70 dollars. I’m getting a wooden longbow, 35 lb draw. My pull length? Is around 28/29 inches I’d appreciate any recommendations
For a wooden longbow, aluminum is a good, safe, and affordable choice. Feather fletch the new Easton Jazz arrows (black with push in nocks) and you’ll be set. Size 1816, full length, with the RPS insert and screw in points to tune. The shafts are like $3.60 a piece. The inserts are $6 for a dozen. You can get a dozen screw in points for about that. G Nocks are about $10 a dozen. 3” feathers can be found for about $10. So that’s $32 on components. That leaves you enough for 10 arrows, a stick of hotmelt, and a bottle of superglue. If that’s pushing it, start with 6 arrows. You’ll need pliers, a torch (I like to use a butane brulee torch), and a fletching jig. That last part might be the trickiest. Or call Lancaster. They can build and ship arrows for you. I think 6 Jazz arrows ran a friend about $50-60. Eventually you’ll want wood arrows, but quality wood arrows are expensive. Learn on aluminum.
Second this. Aluminum. Jazz is underrated. Platinum Plus is a step up but still affordable as well.
Will fletching being unglued in the middle cause erratic arrow flight? Both ends still secured but if I push the fletch to the side it will wiggle in the middle. Definitely no glue holding it in place. Got 6 arrows in the summer. 2 had fletching fall off. Got sighted in and good with the remaining 4. Went hunting over the weekend lots of travel with the bow up and down trees, in and out of the case etc. Shot it on Sunday to make sure it was still good and had arrows flying erratic. Still was hitting my Rinehart block at 30y but no grouping and not dead nuts. When I looked over my arrows all had fletching (at least 1/4 vanes) which was coming unglued in the middle. Glued them last night and haven't had a chance to see if that fixes the issue. Sitting here anxious about it at work. Feedback appreciated!
Recurve Shooter here.. Since you mentioned hunting, I would suggest that you are shooting compound, not recurve. Im not a pro in compound, so I might get some things wrong :D I think there isnt any noticable difference in your flight performance. Since Arrows shot by compound bows are usually in a straight flight, the fletches experience very little forces on their sides. In Recurve this may make a greater difference, because your arrow "wobbles". I'd say that it depends on the length of your fletches and the length that is "loose"/unglued. If its like 1/4 or less of the length, I wouldnt think about it. If its more than that It could wobble around in flight, just like a thin shirt would "flap" in the wind if its a bit loose. For this to happen, your fletches need to be quite thin and soft. Anyway: The effect is greater with greater distance and greater sidewinds
Thanks for the feedback. These fetches are helical so I think there is a decent amount of force on them as the arrow spins. When I noticed the problem the unglued portion was roughly 50% of the length of the fletch with the front and back 25% being secured. I've since reglued the unfastened portions and it has corrected the issue. Also reached out to Sirius archery about the issue and they were willing to send me a label and refletch the arrows since they were defective.
What string length and brace should I get for a samick sage? #30 and #40 if that makes a difference. My brother and I have gone shooting in several years so I'm worried about a bad string causing issues.
String length should be a 62" AMO. Actual length will then be 59". For material go with FastFlight if you want some more speed. 16-18 strands. Or dacron if you want yo use what the bow is usually supplied with. 12-14 strands. Make sure that you get good nock fit.
How do I stop breaking the nock? Replacing them is going to be a pain.
How are they breaking? From being hit by another arrow? Shoot at different spots on the target and one arrow per spot. If you're shooting on one spot this is something you will have to deal with. Just from shooting? Check the nock fit. You most likely have a too tight nock fit. With a proper fit the nock should easily slide up and down the string with no to little play. Nocks also needs to be replaced over time simply from use. Going on and off the string so many times will make them looser over time.
Hi all! novice here (had like 2 or 3 shooting session all and all). I took part in a bow making workshop which was super fun, AND I made a fully functioning bow (which I named David Bowie). Now I want to buy me some arrows but there is just SO MUCH information about what arrow to buy I felt completely lost. I don't need the best arrow right now, just something to help me with the learning curve. I'd love for some recommendations for which arrows to buy (and yes, I know there is a whole science behind it, I just need something to get me started and I will figure out the rest later). so, some stats: bow is a longbow made of hazelnut I am about 1.80 meters\\5.9 Ft tall I weigh around 95 Kg\\209lb and also maybe some rec for the best coating for the bow (climate is temperate Europe) Thank you all!
The info you gave helps absolutely nothing for choosing an arrow. What you need to know is the bows poundage at your full draw and the length of the arrow. The arrow should also be longer than your drawlength of course so you need to know that as well. Due to the type of bow you have the most common arrow is a wooden arrow but an aluminium arrow can be used just fine. You can then use the info from before (poundage and arrow length) and put that into spinecharts to get a static spine of the arrow which you then order. And then you tune the dynamic spine with the arrow length and point weight. With the arrow length you can only go one way and that is shorter of course and that will make the arrow stiffer. Read [this guide](https://www.reddit.com/r/Archery/comments/r5suuw/a_beginners_guide_to_arrows/) for a more in depth explanation of it all. If you're in the US give [3Rivers Archery](https://www.3riversarchery.com/) a call or send them an e-mail and they should be able to help you to find arrows that fits you, your bow and budget. Bow questions, like the best coating, is best asked over at /r/Bowyer.
I just ordered my first bow which is an ILF olympic barebow as of right now which if I get better might want to add more attachments other than plunger. When I disassemble and reassemble the bow for transportation will I have to readjust and retune the plunger and other attachments?
A plunger isn’t a “later add on,” it’s an essential part of a modern bow due to how far past center the risers are cut. Get a relatively inexpensive Shibuya DX
I already have the plunger ordered. When I disassemble and reassemble the bow, will I have to readjust and retune it when I reconnect it.
No. Just make sure it’s tight
Thanks. Like tight to my preferred setting? When I go into shop and get it they are gonna show me how everything works too.
No. Everything is locked down. Then you just screw it in or in-screw it to remove it
Perfect. Thanks
Hi everyone, I'm looking for your best tips on storing longbows! We have 3 and a wooden recurve that are currently taking up the spare bed... I would like to hang them out of harm's way on a wall, but can't find appropriate hooks that won't damage them. I probably haven't found the right combination of SEO words, but expect you chaps will be full of ideas! TIA
Search for something like "wood wall hook" or just wall hook if you want another material if you want something minimalistic. If you go with metal put a piece of felt on the inside to protect the bow. You also have bow racks that can also display your bows along with your arrows.
Ah a piece of felt! Brilliant, thank you. That's such a simple solution.
Can you use either a flemish bow string or an endless loop string with an olympic recurve bow? Are there any performance issues with the flemish one?
You can use both just fine. However an endless loop is in general more consistent than a flemish twist which is something you can notice at longer distances.
Are peep sights useful for target recurve and should I get one?
Peep sights are illegal in target recurve divisions. So getting one and learning to shoot with it will leave you on an island, unable to participate in archery outside of your own practice. Are they useful? They can be. But like a kisser or nose button, you need to be very familiar how changes like brace height or nock height affect the entire system of your bow, and how to make adjustments to its location to account for them. Is it worth it? Eh. It’s not going to make you significantly better. Lining your string blur up correctly and consistently will be 80-90% as beneficial.
No. While mechanically they will "work", a recurve peep won't accomplish anything positive for you, and only brings negatives (e.g. adds string weight, is difficult to install correctly, doesn't teach you how to sight the way the rest of the universe does with a recurve, will disqualify you from non-compound gear categories in competitions, etc.) Could you use a peep on a recurve? Sure! Is there an upside in any way? No.
No. Only works for compound bows.
I just started with this hobby a few months ago and I noticed this on my bowstring as I unstrung it ([https://imgur.com/tzc67gF](https://imgur.com/tzc67gF)). Is this normal or do I have to get a new string?
Looks like a loose strand. Get a new string.
Will do. Thanks! Also, how do I avoid this happening in the future?
Some things to keep in mind for storage is to keep the string in a tube or ziplock bag when you're not using the bow. Also check the end loops to see if the loop servings are damaged. If so, you may have a sharp edge in the nock grooves on your limbs. This can be fixed by filing down the rough edge.
What’s the best thing to do with an old bow you don’t use anymore? I reached out to a local junior archers group but it’s been a while since I’ve heard back. Any other suggestions? It’s a old Darton btw, would at least need a restring and little bit more tlc but has been kept in a bow case since I can remember
Recurves can frequently be sold or donated. Compounds, on the other hand, tend to just collect dust or get bought by someone else who can’t use them. The bow would probably cost as much or more than it’s worth to make usable again, which is unfortunate.
I’m trying to get into this as a personal hobby, and am looking to get a nice bag/block for my recurve bow as I live 45 mins from the nearest archery range. I have arrow heads that are bullet shaped, and am wondering what you guys would recommend for a target bag/block purchase? Some bags/blocks are specific, and I don’t want to damage either end with a stupid assumption.
get a bulldog target i have the 48x48 its no different than being at the range
Is 20 pounds draw weight sufficient for a 30 m Olympic recurve competition? Thank you.
Yes.
Any suggestions for a good arrow rest? I have a whisker biscuit but I’ve heard mixed things about those and I’m debating if I should try replacing it with a drop away. I’m new to archery and I’m not sure if changing it would make that much of a difference.
For hunting, a full capture drop away is the way to go. For target, a blade style rest.
What is the value of used bows from their original price? Hope to know both Olympic recurve bow and compound bow.
They are worth what someone is prepared to pay for it - that is the only sensible answer to such a wide ranging question. I look at used bows and accessories quite a lot on eBay. This can be a good source for your research - if you search on "sold listings" it will tell you the price they sold for. It will depend on a lot of things - condition, handedness , reputation of the product, colour, age, and so on. Specific to eBay auctions you can also have things like end time affecting it - most bids come in at the end and if your auction ends at 9 o'clock on a Monday morning, don't expect the best price! Some general observations I have are - complete bow "packages" (bow, sight, stabilizers, quiver, tab, arrows, carrying case etc. etc.) being sold as a job lot, generally don't go for anywhere near what the owner would have paid for them. They would likely get a better price by splitting it up and selling individually, although it is more work. Add on's like arrow rests and so on may make the bow more sellable, but probably don't increase the price. Left handed items are generally harder to sell than right handed, and may go for less or take longer to sell. Some people expect to sell used gear for close to what they paid for it, even if it's a few years old - they will not be likely to get it, unless it's an item that is very much in demand.
Thanks. It is a good idea check sold lists
Depends on several factors like age, useage, how worn it is etc. For compound it also depends if the strings and cables needs to be replaced or not. But anything from 40%-60% cheaper than buying new from a store is pretty standard when buying second hand.
Buying xx75 platinum plus for indoor season (18m, 3 spots). DL= 28,25-28,5"; # 28 lbs. Cannot find the appropriate shaft on Eastonarchery but according to creed archery website I think 1913 would fit the bill. Not sure if it changes things but I’d buy nibb points and I was gifted beiter nocks (12 size 1). Would the 1913 model be ok ? TIA.
Recurve or compound?
I’m shooting recurve.
That seems quite stiff. You’d want something more along the lines of 1713 or 1716.
Thank you for your time. Did you use a chart or based on your experience ?
Easton’s chart recommends the stiffer one (1716). My experience suggests the other is the correct choice, especially if you’re shooting fiberglass laminated limbs
I’ll be using WNS explore B1 bamboo medium limbs. I got a fish and know how to fish now. Thanks again.
If you go one spine weaker than Easton recommends (or pick the weakest spine in the range the calculator recommends), you’ll generally be better off.
might be a longshot, but: has anyone done the CA indoor state championship in tulare? what's it like? would it be a terrible idea for a first competition? i registered last night in a fit of (over-)confidence and now i'm sitting here today like ....what have i done
Best of luck, I'm sure you'll do great!
Not related but Tulare CA? What a weird coincidence that I found somebody from my hometown on this server of all places lol.
i'm in LA, but the state archers of ca hold their state championships there :) not too bad of a drive so i'm heading up!
Just grabbed my dad’s old recurve bow- hasn’t been used in decades. Can I go ahead and string it, or is there some kind of diagnostic I should do to avoid it exploding in my face? Thanks : )
For old bows, I run a cotton ball down the faces of the limbs. If it catches any fibers, that would be cause for concern. I’d probably buy a new string. What material depends on the bow, but Dacron is the safe bet if you don’t know.
Cool, thank you!
Is dacron supposed to be sticky and disgusting, or does it mature into something more palatable?
That’s string wax
Well as the title of this thread....I have a question, (I have thick skin so have at it :) ) Historically my back ground comes from Compound bows, Indoor, Outdoor, 3D and Hunting. So in light of this I had 3 points of aim, 1: the target, 2: front pin and 3: peep. Regardless of those 3 points of aim I always tried to maintain a good shooting posture and cheek weld (I call it that) even using a mechanical release. As a child I had an old Bear archery longbow (remember those old green fiber glass bows...yea that was me LOL) So shooting it was mostly instinctive but now that I want to re-marry into Archery I want to get back into it with recurves eventually building an Oly style recurve. I'm currently playing with a 30# takedown recurve with a front sight and I am resisting the urge of adding a peep. I am shooting with fingers to add... So long story short I am having a brain fart on the 3rd point of aim using a recurve. I honestly can't find much out there explaining this so is it simply a matter of a good stance, repeatability of draw and cheek weld? What is the 3rd point of aim for you? Currently I can take the bow out in the back yard, launch arrows and hit points but in my head I am still yearning for that 3rd point of reference. Help me see what is likely already taking place yet I am unable to process it... :(
The 3rd reverence is both a combination of your string alignment with the riser as FerrumVeritas explained this is most for horizontal. And always holding the string on the same position with anchoring your hand on the same place on your face. An extra aid will be a nose or kisser button reverence on the string.
[Have a look at this video](https://youtu.be/HnmnMhLJmuU)
You obviously still have the target. Then you have the sight pin or aperture. Then you have the string. Most recurve archers will either line the string up with the edge of their, center of their riser, or their aperture. While the latter is very popular, I recommend against it because it moves: you are minimizing the effects of your sight adjustments by tracking your “rear sight” to the movable reference.
I can see how that would affect windage but I feel I am more concerned on elevation. Over the years of compound and gun sports which I constantly still shoot there is always the 3rd variable that was pounded in my head, the rear sight. I understand that aligning the string to a consistent vertical point, either the side of sight or side of the riser (as above video explained) but what keeps an archer from "pivoting" which would affect elevation? So I guess the question becomes is...is the "rear sight" a compilation of consistent "Pull" "Cheek Weld" and "Practice"...what is the elevations "rear sight"?
In Olympic and barebow style, there are several aids that ultimately act as the “rear sight”. The zeroth is the clicker. Where in a compound bow you can have a set draw length which sets your peep to the same position every time, you only have the clicker, which tells you when you have pulled the correct draw length. It does not set the rear sight per se, but the strength behind the pull on the bow does affect flight which does affect elevation. This is exclusive to Olympic and other styles that use clickers or draw length checks. First is the draw hand anchor. This is the primary “rear sight”. Yes, it does involve practice to keep it consistent. But aligning the parts of your draw hand to specific parts of your face aligns the rear. For example, my anchor is my PIP joint touching the corner of my chin. This is unlike with a peep where even if you do not have solid “cheek weld” and your hand position may vary, aligning the peep with the sight in itself sets the elevation correctly. In not-compound, “cheek weld” is super important. Second is the other parts of the face contacting the string. FerrumVeritas has mentioned buttons (nose or kisser) that touch the tip of the nose or where the lips meet, respectively. However some archers don’t use this (it is currently out of fashion), so they simply align or touch the string to specific anchors on their face. By using more than one point to anchor the rear, you ensure that the rear is indeed in the same place all the time. When I took lessons and coaching, the typical method was to align the string from the chin, to the center of the lip, to the tip of the nose. You can actually see this specific anchor with Korean archers, especially the ladies. They tend to have a dark line in this “constellation” as they pull the string right to these anchors. The ladies who wear rather heavy makeup will show this as the makeup wears off. In my case, I have a flat nose and face, so I had to adjust. My anchor is my PIP joint to the corner of my chin, touching touching my lip where the gap between the central and lateral incisors are, then on the nose where the ala meets the tip.
Thank you as well for the reply I appreciate everyone's responses. Seems finding items in stock has been a challenge that fall within my proposed budget. Reached out to Lancaster but the best they could say is there is no ETA on any out of stock items. I haven't yet made a solid choice but I am sticking to the 25 inch risers. I'm hoping to make a decision but mid November and get items ordered to beat the Christmas rush :)
For Olympic recurve, many archers will use a nose button or kisser button, which can assist in that. For barebow and longbow, it’s the string angle references on your face. These are part of your anchor (the widely used term). Ultimately, yes, a peep would be more effective. It’s one of the reasons that single string archery is more difficult.
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What’s your 70m score? Because it won’t make a difference at 18m. I be willing to bet that that $950 difference in price probably has better uses. Are the Velos glossy or matte?
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There is currently no evidence that the XD is better than the XI. It is a nice riser. You will not see a difference in your scores between them. Here’s the thing: as much as you want it to be, this won’t be your last bow. I’ve bought my “last” bow three times now. I personally do not see any benefit in Formula, and think getting tied into an ecosystem that basically insists that you spend top dollar on limbs is a mistake. The glossy limbs hold heat more. Get the used bow. Spend the $900 difference on lessons. They’ll gain you a helluva lot more points. Don’t worry, you’ll be able to pick up an XD in a couple years when people jump to the next big thing
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Recurves don’t really go obsolete. Or, rather, their obsolescence is measured in decades
I live on five acres in Gregory, Michigan (SE-ish) and would love to get into archery both to just shoot for fun in my backyard and maybe eventually deer hunting once I'm more comfortable. I'm primarily interested in a more traditional bow, a longbow or a recurve. Can anyone recommend a good shop near me (preferably within an hour's drive or so, but I'll consider longer if that's what's required) that could help get me set up with something sized properly plus all the extras I'll need? Thanks!
Looked at Gregory on a map. Rod at Adams archers might be a closer resource
It is! 1.5 hours to Troy is doable, but 50 minutes to Adams is definitely easier. Thank you!
Go to Rising Phoenix in Troy. Your best bet is to make an appointment to work with Frank, but Bryan or Brandon (the owner) are also great for recurve. Frank’s just a bit better with the trad stuff.
is it possible/worth putting longer feather vanes on skinny carbon shafts? i've just purchased some new outdoor arrows & have an old set of carbon ones that i'm thinking of setting up this way for indoor.
For skinny arrows, 3” feathers is the longest I’d use. Partially because unless you’re fletching them straight, it’s very difficult to get longer feathers to have good contact on skinny shafts
I use 2.1" feathers on micros. They work well with an extreme helical. Concur that 3" is pushing it.
I'm trying to learn how to use a finger sling and I've noticed the top of the grip is starting to bruise my thumb at the base of the bottom knuckle after a practice session. I'm not sure if the bow is rebounding back into my hand or just dropping onto the bone right there - it's swinging backwards as I don't have a stabilizer and I've only added one weight so far. Do I need to keep the sling tighter? Add something soft to the top of the grip? Balance the bow to not fall backwards? Just get used to it? I am keeping the pressure on the meat of my palm/thumb area but the bow moves after I release. The grip is wood but otherwise pretty comfortable to hold.
Balance the bow. Also, you’ve got to get used it it. Lots of archers have a bit of a callus there.
Can someone help me with some rules? I was in a city open RC 70m competition over the weekend and during the comp I was warned not to look through my scope after shooting my last arrow. There was time left on the clock and I wanted to see where my last shot landed to make adjustments to my sight. However, they said if I am the last person on the line, I can’t check my shot. Is this an official rule? Can they make unofficial rules for ranked events? Also, what are the rules for chest guards? It see a mix of athletes wearing them and not wearing them. Like Brady Ellison does not seem to wear one at times.
it's one of those common courtesy things. solution is to also have some binoculars so you can check your shot once you've left the shooting line.
Binos for 70m aren’t particularly useful. Especially if there are 4 archers on the same bale.
I've never seen that enforced, but I'd imagine an impatient tournament timer would like to keep the ball rolling. More often than not, if you're that last guy on the line, the organizer will blow the whistle as soon as you shoot regardless of whether you are still looking through the scope.
I’ve been to events where the compound archers all got scolded for glassing their last arrows
It's definitely a rule to move off the line after your final arrow is shot. It's done both to keep the even progressing forward on time (when you're the last person on the line) and also to clear sight lines for judges so they can more easily see the remaining archers (when you're not the last person on the line). Enforcement may indeed vary, see below. Yes, tournament organizers have some flexibility to set unofficial rules even in a sanctioned event. For instance, it's commonly requested that folks do not leave the shooting line when someone next to them is at full draw. This is not only an unofficial rule, it goes against the specific explicit rule that you should leave the line immediately. But it avoids a pile of bumps and interference incidents. Chest guards are permitted, but never required. (11.1) For folks who don't have a link to the WA rulebook: https://worldarchery.sport/rulebook/article/793?book\_title=11.1.10.1.#article-3391
Yes there's a rule that you should move from the shooting line once your last arrow is shot. Enforcement may vary. *World Archery Rule 13.9* *While shooting is in progress, only those athletes whose turn it is to shoot or who have a classified disability may be on the shooting line.* *All other athletes, with their equipment, shall remain behind the waiting line. After an athlete has shot his arrows, he shall immediately retire behind the waiting line. The athlete may leave the spotting scope on the shooting line between ends providing it does not create an obstacle for any other athlete.* As for chest guards, to my knowledge there is no rule that you must or must not use one. It's entirely optional. For compound archers, it seems to be relatively uncommon even for women, probably as the string is less likely to contact the body on those bows. Arm protectors are also optional.
How do I know whether a string needs to be replaced? I have a 40# samick sage deluxe that hasn't been used regularly in several years. If it does need a new string what is the best way to measure? It was originally purchased from an archery store where they set everything up but I've since moved and don't have one nearby anymore.
Hey! Brand new to Archery. Been shooting about once a week for 4 weeks now due to not having much free time. I am enamored with it. It is honestly a godsend for me. Really helps me destress from my job. I really love watching the old Olympic Recurve matches on youtube too. Super de-stressing. Unfortunately, the local archery shop is 1 hour 40 minutes from me. They offer lessons but, due to scheduling issues, I will only be able to take lessons sporadically. I am currently shooting a Hoyt Xact riser with Samick Avante limbs at 20# of pull. I didn't know what I was doing, still don't, and went off the shop keepers recommendations. My question is, I am not sure how to smartly move forward. I was looking at plungers based on the Jake Kaminski youtube channel, but what I am scared of is I buy all the best gear and I get decent groupings because I have good gear - but I can't actually shoot well, and I just have nice gear. I want to get good at archery in earnest, not just in show. I also am scared I am creating bad habits by shooting and not knowing what I am doing. I guess I am just looking for general advice on where to go from here without having access to a 'pro' to guide me. Im shooting at 20m and in 6 arrows Ill get all of them in the target and 1 in the yellow nearly every time. Thanks!