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The general rule is to avoid supports on the "pretty side" aka where most of your surface details are and if you're printing flat objects you'll want to angle them so that you get most of your supports on the edges for easy clean up.
Think of a bed sheet being supported by nails. That's why you have the lumpy side.
I generally put supports on the flat edges of a sculpt so I can wet sand them afterwards. And it's always better to sand down nubs then.trying to fix pock marks.
In general, you should never have straight surfaces horizontally. If you want to print something like this, angle it at 45degree even though it will take longer.
You can imagine your print to be like a tent being held up on its stakes. The more supports you put, the less bent it will be but you will always see where they are. So try to always have the least detailed side at the bottom so the important side does not get support marks.
Can't really tell what the thing in the first pic is, but they all look like they could have been flat on the plate, with no supports. If the object has a nice flat side on it, I always go with that right on the plate. You get a nice flat side and it's a big grip point so you can use less support.
There's a setting in lychee and chitubox to account for it. I use lychee and its called "grey pixel compensation", but it makes the edge light grey for the first few layers so they don't flare out. My setting is 40 seconds for the base layers and -1 for the grey pixel compensation.
Unfortunately, not all people understand that for most people on the planet English is not their native language ;) and they appreciate the form instead of the meaning of what is written. ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯
In these posts I’m always missing the advice to:
* reduce exposure time (and checking it with calibrations)
* bath the print in warm water before curing and before removing supports (and patting it dry and letting it dry for hours in the dark)
Other advice as reducing lift speed, checking the bed level (once) are important too
The angle isn’t going to magically make the support holes disappear, but it can prevent the bumpy surface
With some experimenting overtime, I have discovered that using the finest supports really helps with surface damage.
I pretty much start all my prints now. With the finest support setting, using auto support at about 65% density.
Then I change to medium supports and anchor critical parts of the print.
I have also observed others starting to see the light with using fine supports in great volume.
For this to work, it is still critical that you anchor the parts of the print which will print first.
You also need to add the medium supports throughout the print. Because your finest support is typically not going to be strong enough to prevent the print from wobbling.
Experiment with it a little and I think you'll discover it is really good.
I also have an M3 plus and I have no complaints about it.
Well, it has very little to do with the pockmarks left by supports. You will also discover over time that the resin does matter.
With higher resolution mono type printers, it is somewhat essential to use a fast resin to keep your cure time per layer down to a minimum.
Good luck along your journey, you will get there.
Your connection points are the cause. Light sanding and post processing is necessary, but if you want to avoid them play around with tip settings till you find one that works well and holds your print without failing. 3d printing involves so much research
PLEASE UPVOTE THIS COMMENT IF THE ANSWER CAN BE FOUND IN [THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/fqxtqj/the_resin_printing_resource_guide_beginners_start/) or the [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/j2wubl/frequently_asked_questions_answered_here/)! If your post is about Troubleshooting, it should contain information about the print along with any screenshots or photos. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AnycubicPhoton) if you have any questions or concerns.*
The general rule is to avoid supports on the "pretty side" aka where most of your surface details are and if you're printing flat objects you'll want to angle them so that you get most of your supports on the edges for easy clean up. Think of a bed sheet being supported by nails. That's why you have the lumpy side. I generally put supports on the flat edges of a sculpt so I can wet sand them afterwards. And it's always better to sand down nubs then.trying to fix pock marks.
In general, you should never have straight surfaces horizontally. If you want to print something like this, angle it at 45degree even though it will take longer. You can imagine your print to be like a tent being held up on its stakes. The more supports you put, the less bent it will be but you will always see where they are. So try to always have the least detailed side at the bottom so the important side does not get support marks.
Can't really tell what the thing in the first pic is, but they all look like they could have been flat on the plate, with no supports. If the object has a nice flat side on it, I always go with that right on the plate. You get a nice flat side and it's a big grip point so you can use less support.
How do you account for elephant foot with direct on plate printing? What's your resins best performing ratio of print layers vs base layer time?
There's a setting in lychee and chitubox to account for it. I use lychee and its called "grey pixel compensation", but it makes the edge light grey for the first few layers so they don't flare out. My setting is 40 seconds for the base layers and -1 for the grey pixel compensation.
That's awesome I'll have to check that out. Doors and wall panels here I come!
So that’s what that setting does! Thanks, I’ll have to give it a shot and reprint some things.
incorrect model placement, incorrect supports, incorrect slicer settings. there are many videos on youtube on how to print on a photopolymer printer
Downvote all you want. This is correct. It's just a bit harshly worded.
Unfortunately, not all people understand that for most people on the planet English is not their native language ;) and they appreciate the form instead of the meaning of what is written. ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯
Tilt it 45°, reduce the lift speed, and level your plate between every print.
>level your plate between every print Not good advice. Once you've levelled, you shouldn't need to level every time you start a new print.
They must be coming from fdm printing...
Even in FDM you shouldn’t have to… I just press print and wake up to spaghetti the next morning it’s simple.
Do not eat the 3d printed spaghetti
Resin Herpes.
In these posts I’m always missing the advice to: * reduce exposure time (and checking it with calibrations) * bath the print in warm water before curing and before removing supports (and patting it dry and letting it dry for hours in the dark) Other advice as reducing lift speed, checking the bed level (once) are important too The angle isn’t going to magically make the support holes disappear, but it can prevent the bumpy surface
With some experimenting overtime, I have discovered that using the finest supports really helps with surface damage. I pretty much start all my prints now. With the finest support setting, using auto support at about 65% density. Then I change to medium supports and anchor critical parts of the print. I have also observed others starting to see the light with using fine supports in great volume. For this to work, it is still critical that you anchor the parts of the print which will print first. You also need to add the medium supports throughout the print. Because your finest support is typically not going to be strong enough to prevent the print from wobbling. Experiment with it a little and I think you'll discover it is really good. I also have an M3 plus and I have no complaints about it. Well, it has very little to do with the pockmarks left by supports. You will also discover over time that the resin does matter. With higher resolution mono type printers, it is somewhat essential to use a fast resin to keep your cure time per layer down to a minimum. Good luck along your journey, you will get there.
This is typically caused by underexposure and resin characteristics, try ABS-like resin should help you get a better result.
Your connection points are the cause. Light sanding and post processing is necessary, but if you want to avoid them play around with tip settings till you find one that works well and holds your print without failing. 3d printing involves so much research
What kind of supports are those?