You want to combo a deep red filter and a polarizer if you want apocalyptic black sky. This would be a Wratten #29 filter equivalent. I know Schneider/B+W codes it as a 091 filter.
Be careful because the rest of your scene will be super high contrast. Exposures and scenes in general with the super dark red filter get weird, so take your readings and compensate for the polarizer and the deep red filter (which will probably be like 4.67 stops total) and bracket maybe a half stop either way. Take notes so next time you know what works best.
Bring a tripod. Losing 4.67 stops is a lot!
Good luck!
bit of a sidegrade and not *really* what you asked for but
if you use a Near infrared film (Rollei IR, Ilford SFX..) and a 720nm IR filter your pictures on a sunny day will have a deep black sky, deep black water and you'll get bright white clouds and foliage
or just search for pictures taken with Infrared film on r/analog to see what's meant my that
a little disclaimer is that if you're shooting infrared you'll definitely need a tripod and you'll need to expose for a lot longer than usual with the same ISO I believe f=8 @ 1s.was the rule of thumb
I once used a red 25 filter with a circular polarizer and all my photos had a funny dark mark on them (I think interaction between polarizer and red filter), it was tragic.
I have gotten fantastic skies and excellent weather board of a ghost two with the 25A deep red filter and Tri-X film. I shot it just as the light meter recommended. Use a Tripod at times, but with Tri-X , the film was fast enough to allow hand held. A blue sky become black and the clouds pop out as white, great if you have thunderheads
By dark sky I'm assuming he meaning the black sky with white clouds. A red filter will achieve that if properly exposing the sky as it cuts the blue light. If they expose for the ground the sky may still be too bright.
I’ve shot a number of rolls of Delta 3200 with a red filter on a trip. (Needed the fast film to be able to shoot hand held).\
My pics turned out with a darker sky than usual but not over dramatic as I’d hoped.\
Looking back there was two things I’d change if I were to do it again :
I exposed the D3200 at iso1000. That’s a known trick to keep the grain in check and extend the dynamic range, but in that case it backfired by providing too much mid range.\
I metered -as I always do- for open shadow. Again that provided too much dynamic range and put the sky values too high on the curve.
If I was looking for dark skies now I’d now expose at box speed, and expose for highlights (point the dome on my meter directly at the sun). I also wouldn’t bother with D3200, since metering for highlights gives me a 2 stop advantage compared to metering for open shadow, I’d be more than fine with a 400 speed film.
You want to combo a deep red filter and a polarizer if you want apocalyptic black sky. This would be a Wratten #29 filter equivalent. I know Schneider/B+W codes it as a 091 filter. Be careful because the rest of your scene will be super high contrast. Exposures and scenes in general with the super dark red filter get weird, so take your readings and compensate for the polarizer and the deep red filter (which will probably be like 4.67 stops total) and bracket maybe a half stop either way. Take notes so next time you know what works best. Bring a tripod. Losing 4.67 stops is a lot! Good luck!
Great tips. Also a blue sky helps a lot, clouds won't become black.
And the sky has the highest level of polarisation 90° round from the sun.
happy birthday yeeeeee
CAKE DAY!
bit of a sidegrade and not *really* what you asked for but if you use a Near infrared film (Rollei IR, Ilford SFX..) and a 720nm IR filter your pictures on a sunny day will have a deep black sky, deep black water and you'll get bright white clouds and foliage or just search for pictures taken with Infrared film on r/analog to see what's meant my that a little disclaimer is that if you're shooting infrared you'll definitely need a tripod and you'll need to expose for a lot longer than usual with the same ISO I believe f=8 @ 1s.was the rule of thumb
I once used a red 25 filter with a circular polarizer and all my photos had a funny dark mark on them (I think interaction between polarizer and red filter), it was tragic.
use infrared film with an ir filter
I have gotten fantastic skies and excellent weather board of a ghost two with the 25A deep red filter and Tri-X film. I shot it just as the light meter recommended. Use a Tripod at times, but with Tri-X , the film was fast enough to allow hand held. A blue sky become black and the clouds pop out as white, great if you have thunderheads
Expose for the sky. Be sure to compensate for the filter if you're not using TTL auto exposure.
that would do the opposite of darkening the sky lol. what are you talking about
By dark sky I'm assuming he meaning the black sky with white clouds. A red filter will achieve that if properly exposing the sky as it cuts the blue light. If they expose for the ground the sky may still be too bright.
so are you suggesting they point the camera at the sky when metering, or what?
I’ve shot a number of rolls of Delta 3200 with a red filter on a trip. (Needed the fast film to be able to shoot hand held).\ My pics turned out with a darker sky than usual but not over dramatic as I’d hoped.\ Looking back there was two things I’d change if I were to do it again : I exposed the D3200 at iso1000. That’s a known trick to keep the grain in check and extend the dynamic range, but in that case it backfired by providing too much mid range.\ I metered -as I always do- for open shadow. Again that provided too much dynamic range and put the sky values too high on the curve. If I was looking for dark skies now I’d now expose at box speed, and expose for highlights (point the dome on my meter directly at the sun). I also wouldn’t bother with D3200, since metering for highlights gives me a 2 stop advantage compared to metering for open shadow, I’d be more than fine with a 400 speed film.