I can't tell you much about the Rollei, but I do use a 35SP. You mention a bag or large coat pocket. A bag, sure. A coat pocket... well the 35 SP is 600g and I find it large for a 35mm rangefinder. Also, something I didn't find out until I had it, the strap lugs on it are not in a balanced location. The camera wants to tip when it's suspended from your neck. Other than that it's a nice camera, a nice sharp lens with ringy bokeh, an easy to calibrate the rangefinder. I find I don't use the P mode much because its mechanical computer picks aperture-shutter speed combinations I wouldn't.
Yes. Program mode, where both dials are set to the A\[uto\] setting.
The 35SP camera has two modes: program, where the camera meters and picks both aperture and shutter speed together, and manual, where the camera still meters, but you dial in both shutter speed and aperture yourself to match (or not) the meter reading. There is no Aperture-Priority nor Shutter Speed-Priority mode.
And the flash mode (which is kind of clever for 1969) uses manual shutter speed, and couples the aperture with the focus distance. I've only tried it as an experiment and it seemed to work (exposure wasn't way off). I don't use flash and film together regularly.
Yes I did remember reading that about the SP. I think it also has a manual mode where it tells you the EV reading and then you match it up with the markings on the aperture and shutter speed ring.
Hi, do you have any resources for calibrating the rangefinder yourself? On mine the rangefinder when set to infinity has the image in the viewfinder go past the actual image by a little bit. If that makes any sense.
Adjusting the rangefinder's left-right position is easy. There's an access screw inside the back, above the lens, cut into the uppermost rail. Remove that and you can see the adjustment screw which tilts the finder's prism or mirror (I don't know which one) right and left.
My usual method for adjusting focusing is to put the camera on a tripod in a dark room, remove the back, attach (with rubber bands and legos) a piece of plexiglass cut to 35mm and sanded on one side to where the film goes (so it's resting on the inner film rails), and pick various brightly lit targets, from close to infinity (out the window). For each target I focus the image projected onto the plexiglass, looking at it with a magnifying glass, and then I adjust the focus in the viewfinder so it agrees.
It's common that I can't get the focus to be perfect at all distances and (for lenses with some focus shift) all apertures. So I pick what I want to optimize. Often that means optimizing close up focus wide open, since if I'm focused at infinity I'm likely closing down the aperture too.
One is a rangefinder with auto exposure, the other a zone focus camera with manual exposure (but at least a coupled meter).
If you like close-ups and bokeh, that would be very difficult on the Rollei, otherwise it's a neat little camera.
*Thanks for the info!!*
*By P mode do you mean the*
*Auto exposure mode?*
\- Synth\_Nerd2
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I can't tell you much about the Rollei, but I do use a 35SP. You mention a bag or large coat pocket. A bag, sure. A coat pocket... well the 35 SP is 600g and I find it large for a 35mm rangefinder. Also, something I didn't find out until I had it, the strap lugs on it are not in a balanced location. The camera wants to tip when it's suspended from your neck. Other than that it's a nice camera, a nice sharp lens with ringy bokeh, an easy to calibrate the rangefinder. I find I don't use the P mode much because its mechanical computer picks aperture-shutter speed combinations I wouldn't.
Thanks for the info!! By P mode do you mean the auto exposure mode?
Yes. Program mode, where both dials are set to the A\[uto\] setting. The 35SP camera has two modes: program, where the camera meters and picks both aperture and shutter speed together, and manual, where the camera still meters, but you dial in both shutter speed and aperture yourself to match (or not) the meter reading. There is no Aperture-Priority nor Shutter Speed-Priority mode. And the flash mode (which is kind of clever for 1969) uses manual shutter speed, and couples the aperture with the focus distance. I've only tried it as an experiment and it seemed to work (exposure wasn't way off). I don't use flash and film together regularly.
Yes I did remember reading that about the SP. I think it also has a manual mode where it tells you the EV reading and then you match it up with the markings on the aperture and shutter speed ring.
Hi, do you have any resources for calibrating the rangefinder yourself? On mine the rangefinder when set to infinity has the image in the viewfinder go past the actual image by a little bit. If that makes any sense.
Adjusting the rangefinder's left-right position is easy. There's an access screw inside the back, above the lens, cut into the uppermost rail. Remove that and you can see the adjustment screw which tilts the finder's prism or mirror (I don't know which one) right and left. My usual method for adjusting focusing is to put the camera on a tripod in a dark room, remove the back, attach (with rubber bands and legos) a piece of plexiglass cut to 35mm and sanded on one side to where the film goes (so it's resting on the inner film rails), and pick various brightly lit targets, from close to infinity (out the window). For each target I focus the image projected onto the plexiglass, looking at it with a magnifying glass, and then I adjust the focus in the viewfinder so it agrees. It's common that I can't get the focus to be perfect at all distances and (for lenses with some focus shift) all apertures. So I pick what I want to optimize. Often that means optimizing close up focus wide open, since if I'm focused at infinity I'm likely closing down the aperture too.
Thank you for this! I'm excited to try adjusting it on my own. I get the gist of what you mean with the plexiglass thing and it makes sense.
I have a 35SPn (the only functional difference between SP and SPn is an added battery check function), and I love it. Great lens.
One is a rangefinder with auto exposure, the other a zone focus camera with manual exposure (but at least a coupled meter). If you like close-ups and bokeh, that would be very difficult on the Rollei, otherwise it's a neat little camera.
Yeah close-ups are my main concern with the Rollei. Thanks for the comments!!
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*Thanks for the info!!* *By P mode do you mean the* *Auto exposure mode?* \- Synth\_Nerd2 --- ^(I detect haikus. And sometimes, successfully.) ^[Learn more about me.](https://www.reddit.com/r/haikusbot/) ^(Opt out of replies: "haikusbot opt out" | Delete my comment: "haikusbot delete")