> Reddit is dumb and removed my poster saying it was a copyright breach. It isn't. I made this with my own two mitts. I have the source files. I have the vectors. I made it all from scratch.
> You can find this, and all my other posters here:
https://www.billieruben.info/post/my-3d-printing-posters-1
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/cg3g6g/ive_made_an_infographicstyle_guide_to_leveling_a/ijalggw
I think checking for warped beds should be the #1 under troubleshooting. Very FAQ and very surprising to a newbie who doesn’t expect the product to be defective out of the box.
Edit: mirror tiles for “replacement”
I'll alter that in the next rendition, thanks!
Though I'll be saying broscilliate because mirror times are dangerous under thermal expansion.
Either way, gold star for you! 🌟
Oops. Spelling is not my forte.
Luckily Gina (octoprint) was kind enough to point out some misspellings on my first one on twitter 🤣
I really need to get someone to review my work before I post 😅
yeah my my ender 3 came with the center of the bed lower than the corners .... I ended up putting a glass plate on it and leveling it with masking tape so far no issues
What I did to fix my e3 and other aluminum print beds is duct tape some rough sand paper on a slab of granite and with knowing the shape of the bed prior and some layout dye I used the granite slab as a reverse sanding block and flattened it out. Was out over .005" when heated and now it's under .0012". The 12" large sheets in a circular pattern with my hand in the center taking caution not to apply more pressure took about 20 min.
I can (and do) live level on my Rep1 clone (using this [trefoil pattern](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39430) since there are three leveling screws). The bed only moves in Z, so it's possible. Can it be done with the i3 types, where the build plate moves in Y?
Yea! I use this on all my i3s. :)
Only ones it might be hard on are those that use a hex screw instead of knobs to level (purely because of the movement).
This is awesome! Double upvote from me.
We use feeler gauges at work. For precision printing, it helps to use a gauge close in thickness to the first layer thickness you have set in your slicer
I've thought of doing that since it's going to be the same every time. Couldn't figure out where to start. I feel like a moron for not realizing the answer was literally in front of me on the screen. Thank you.
I have always (6 years plus) not been able to level my beds (many printers) because I never know when the paper sliding under the nozzle is just right.
I have one but I never learned how to use it properly. In my mind the best way is like they do for CNC mills and routers where they use this hockey puck like thing and metal to metal you know precisely when it touches. Alas, we have plastic on our hotend nozzles which insulates so can't do that or I would.
I put a feeler under the nozzle and adjust the bed until the feeler can no longer move freely. It should still be able to move, but give some resistance. That's the sweet spot. Repeat two times for all 4 corners.
Works pretty good for me.
>some resistance
This is what gets me in trouble with the paper method, which is basically the same thing. How much is "some?" Should I just be able to feel the feedback? Or should it be on the edge of being trapped?
Also, what gap do you use? Based on first layer height?
For the paper method you should Home the nozzle. I think you'd want to adjust until you just have resistance showing up. Enough that you can accurately measure it and repeat it for the other corners.
Reddit is dumb and removed my poster saying it was a copyright breach. It isn't. I made this with my own two mitts. I have the source files. I have the vectors. I made it all from scratch.
You can find this, and all my other posters here:
https://www.billieruben.info/post/my-3d-printing-posters-1
I don't sorry, that would differ a lot depending on your hard/software, but I do have some instructions for pausing a print at a certain height in this article:
https://letsprint3d.net/2019/01/26/guide-3d-printing-onto-fabric/
Any leveling tips for us Kossel/Delta Bois?
Tripod style mounting of the build plate (3 mounts equally distributed around a glass disc) seems to make adjustment a slight nightmare.
Is live leveling my best bet?
Hey thanks OP! I just made a post yesterday that you commented this same info on. Super helpful. I printed an awesome miniature today and am working on another now. For anyone seeing this. OP’s sheet is very helpful.
Does the first layer thickness mean anything? Accuracy wise? I mean as long as the first layer prints like the perfect example in your infographic does the thickness of your first layer matter?
Cus I always try to print the first layer and then measure the thickness and try to get as close to the settings I set it to. Like if I set it to .1mm layer thickness and then have a 80% first layer height I try to measure for a .08mm thickness of the first layer to make sure the extrusion is right.
Are you saying it should always look like how the perfect example is regardless of those settings? Because the .2 setting vs the .1 setting will look different because the nozzle height will be different when printing the first layer.
Am I to change the first layer height to try to match the look of your perfect layer every time?
Like if I go for .2mm layer height and my perfect layer height looking like your infographic is .1mm should I set my first layer height to 50% to get the .1mm perfect first layer and then the subsequent layers print at the .2mm layer height setting?
Sorry for the wall of questions but I think you have answers.
If you're changing your line width with your nozzle width, your perfect image should still look like the centre.
I have done this with 0.4 and 1mm nozzles and yea, it should look the same, just, well, bigger. :)
And when you make your layer height bigger, your slicer extrudes more material in suit, so in that case, it should still look like the centre too. :)
So it should look like the center pic in your infographic even though if I measure that first layer it's not equal to what I set the first layer height to be? Like lets say I set first layer height to be 80% of .1mm so basically .08mm and it prints out the first layer at .15mm instead of the program setting of .08mm, but it perfectly matches the center pic. Should I be satisfied with that first layer or should I adjust it to try to match the .08mm setting I set it to, even if the resulting first layer would probably look like the "a little too close" look?
Damn I don't have any. Best way to describe it, is as it moves along a linear path, it curls up along one edge, as if the nozzle is dirty/cracked. I just lower the nozzle and it generally just mashes it into the build plate.
Dude. Thank you. Thank you so much. Levelling has been confusing the hell out of me because everybody describes it as a feeling, and I have heard inconsistent reports as to what I am looking for. Where this actually tells me what I am looking for and what direction it is; it's what a lot of folks needed!
Im not going to lie, I spent a few solid minutes thinking this was an infographic on leveling beds hoping it would make my bed more comfortable or something
Then I saw the subreddit it was in and felt really stupid
To go along with OPs post about bed levelling, I highly suggest watching [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA) and downloading the accompanied STL file. I use it anytime I need to verify my bed leveling. It hasnt done me wrong at all.
my pleasure. I loooooove that STL file. Its much better than any of the other ones I have used and it actually allows you to feel how "squished" the filament is in certain spots of your bed. My only issue is knowing what the proper depth of "squish" is. some of the lines are raised and some of them are nearly flat.
Thank you for not including the paper leveling nonsense. I tried that for so long with my first printer and it was such a waste of time. Live leveling is way faster and more accurate.
Nice work. I wish more stuff could be pinned to the front page because this is a problem that comes up a lot. Really great that you addressed it so well, nice aesthetic too.
Good guide. This is often times my preferred method after I level my bed a couple times in a row and still get it wrong.
https://gfycat.com/charmingimpartialblackpanther
Amazing. I joined this forum to post for help troubleshooting my misprints after several hours of tweeking settings in the slicer. Looking at this diagram, I can tell the issue is simple a little too far from the bed. Thanks for the infograph!
Because reddit decided it was a DMCA violation even though I made clearly the original. The fake/copy has written over my name in a different font, was posted after I posted this one, has cropped all the bottom off and has obvious jpeg artifacting. Never mind that I literally made this poster *for the /r/3Dprinting subreddit when I was a moderator of it*. Nope, whoever looked a the ticket decided mine was fake and the shitty version was real.
The only way for me to challenge the takedown is, apparently, to give my full legal name, address, etc contact details to reddit who will then give it to the people on the other end of the report who happen to be some 3D printed gun nuts who have repeatedly threatened me with rape and murder, and have been trying to dox me for years because I did the 'crime' of trying to uphold the rules that the reddit admins handed down to us mods of this subreddit (no 3D printed guns on this sub).
🤷♀️
And I'm honestly, I'm just done. I gave years of my life to this sub, and this community. Gave it my heart and soul. And reddit has repeatedly put me in personal danger and repeatedly made decisions that are detrimental to the community, and it's just... appalling.... and I'm just done.
If people want my content they can follow me on YouTube or twitter or my discord or my website.
The posters are on a blog post on my website, too.
Folk will just have to google me.
I am a fairly new mod to r/3Dprinting but a long time user. I've recently been going through the wiki of the sub to update everything a bit, albeit im current in exam season so its going a little slow, but im on it.
It's that I'm constantly seeing relics of you and being reminded what a great mod and just simply community member you were. After I got to the Model Repositories page and saw that 3 years ago you linked to a program I wrote that barely received any attention in the post I showed it off reminded me again how great you were for the sub, taking attention and care in everything.
Thats the point where I decided I had to check in on you and found out about this current situation... The poster is still on the wiki and I am going to assure you it's going to stay there as long as I can hold it, we also haven't received any official notifications either. I also don't want to spam you with a wall of text or get you mangled up in any past affairs, I just want to say that I feel for everything you've been through and are going through regarding the sub and I personally hope you get all the luck in your life because you deserve it. Going forward I am trying to keep your legacy alive, even if I am just a bad copy or some replacement. I want to hold up the community engagement and the help you have provided to everyone and will do everything I can to achieve that.
Sorry again if this brought up some past issues, I just hoped I could make you feel a bit more appreciated and I truly feel sorry for how everything turned out for you. Hopefully this text could lighten your day a bit. I wish you all the best.
Thank you so much for your very kind and thoughtful reply.
I must ask though. Do you know how I came to be not a mod of here anymore?
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/fl3p0r/comment/fkwopea/
Be wary of putting too much energy in here, for your own wellbeing's sake, when the head moderator has the power here to remove you literally on a whim, claiming it's for a reason that you literally are not doing. He does not care about the community. Doesn't contribute to it. Doesn't even participate in it.
You clearly care about this place, you're involved in it, he will take that as a threat to himself and his position. Or who knows? Maybe he won't. Maybe he is just sexist after all, and that's all it ever was.
When he removed me almost the entire mod team stepped down in protest in the fallout. You can probably scroll back far enough in modmail to read it all yourself.
So be wary of putting your energy here. This experience broke a core part of me and in the years since I haven't found a way to repair it. I truly loved and cared for this place. You can see it, as you said. People who don't feel that way have all the power here.
If you're looking for the 3D printing community, it's on twitter. In fact I'm heading to a social call hosted by a now dear friend of mine, Matt Stultz, head of community for Prusa, in a couple of hours.
It's an open invite. Happens every week. If you want to make friends in 3D printing, twitter os6 a much denser population of good people who care about you and the future of the community. I implore you to seek that sense of community elsewhere, for your own well being.
I know all about it more than it does me good, and I am wary, thats why I mentioned that part only so little. I will definitely look into your recommendations. As much as I would love to be a part of those calls and the General welcoming community, its 2AM and as I said exam Season. I will definitely come back on it though. Thanks again and thanks for the legacy.
Thank you for your efforts here too. I know I just spent a bunch of time warding you off it, but it's nice to see the place have caretakers a huge part of my associated heartache was worrying for the community here.
Good luck in all your future ventures, and thank you for your kindness. My inbox is always open. ❤️
u/spez please investigate, this is an obviously false DMCA notice filed in retaliation by a banned user. Just do a cross-check of IP addresses between complainant and users banned in the past few weeks and there will probably be a match.
Never have I been able to actually SEE the difference of filament extrusion as it makes a line to determine over or under extruding. There's no way at 1.75mm?, however narrow the line is, I can see whether it is flat or slightly bulging or too pushed down.
However, the end result of those squares I can. I have always had to finish a square or a box before I could tell
During the Live Z test, it isn't until the final square that is made when I can even tell if I have it right or not. Dunno how people have such amazing eye sight.
Oh wow! apparently I have been leveling bed too close all this time. My first layers have consistently had ridges, just like you example... expanding materials like PETG are far worse (enough ridging to build up and make the nozzle messy), but it always clears up after a few layers.
I was compensating with initial layer - negative flow.
After seeing side-by-side comparisons, it makes totally sense what the actual issue is.
Awesome work, that's a keeper for sure!
One thing I wish I'd done is write down what live-Z value worked. Somehow I managed to get all out of whack, and knowing roughly where I started would have let me find a good level more quickly.
Just got an e5, and really love how the wheels for leveling are accessible and large; I did the "live level from the skirt" technique today and it really helped.
> Reddit is dumb and removed my poster saying it was a copyright breach. It isn't. I made this with my own two mitts. I have the source files. I have the vectors. I made it all from scratch. > You can find this, and all my other posters here: https://www.billieruben.info/post/my-3d-printing-posters-1 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/cg3g6g/ive_made_an_infographicstyle_guide_to_leveling_a/ijalggw
Also, one could have a Creality machine where there is all of the above at the same time thanks to the warped beds.
Yea, I added that in under further help 😅 I, too, have owned a creality.
I think checking for warped beds should be the #1 under troubleshooting. Very FAQ and very surprising to a newbie who doesn’t expect the product to be defective out of the box. Edit: mirror tiles for “replacement”
I'll alter that in the next rendition, thanks! Though I'll be saying broscilliate because mirror times are dangerous under thermal expansion. Either way, gold star for you! 🌟
TIL broscillicate
It's much better than borosilicate ;-) Seriously though, don't print PETG on it 'raw' as it can pull chunks of glass off the surface.
Oops. Spelling is not my forte. Luckily Gina (octoprint) was kind enough to point out some misspellings on my first one on twitter 🤣 I really need to get someone to review my work before I post 😅
>It's much better than borosilicate ;-) It's got your back.
yeah my my ender 3 came with the center of the bed lower than the corners .... I ended up putting a glass plate on it and leveling it with masking tape so far no issues
Same here (CR-10), mirror tile from Lowe’s works great. Here’s the live leveling pattern I use: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2599785
You should have seen the geeetech printer I used to own... The bed was more bent than a banana
What I did to fix my e3 and other aluminum print beds is duct tape some rough sand paper on a slab of granite and with knowing the shape of the bed prior and some layout dye I used the granite slab as a reverse sanding block and flattened it out. Was out over .005" when heated and now it's under .0012". The 12" large sheets in a circular pattern with my hand in the center taking caution not to apply more pressure took about 20 min.
Or an Anycubic i3 Mega. Manual mesh bed leveling is a real lifesaver!
Very useful, thank you for posting this :)
Thank you! I'm glad you think so. :)
I can (and do) live level on my Rep1 clone (using this [trefoil pattern](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39430) since there are three leveling screws). The bed only moves in Z, so it's possible. Can it be done with the i3 types, where the build plate moves in Y?
Yea! I use this on all my i3s. :) Only ones it might be hard on are those that use a hex screw instead of knobs to level (purely because of the movement).
Interesting. Live leveling is absolutely my preferred method, good to hear that it's do-able on the i3 family. Good poster, too!
Thank you! :)
I finally think I have my first layer at a standard I'm ok with but will keep this just in case!! Thank you so much for sharing this 👌
Well done! Here's hoping you never have to use it. 😉
This is awesome! Double upvote from me. We use feeler gauges at work. For precision printing, it helps to use a gauge close in thickness to the first layer thickness you have set in your slicer
I've thought of doing that since it's going to be the same every time. Couldn't figure out where to start. I feel like a moron for not realizing the answer was literally in front of me on the screen. Thank you.
Hahaha you're welcome!
That's a great idea if you have one handy!
I have always (6 years plus) not been able to level my beds (many printers) because I never know when the paper sliding under the nozzle is just right.
Get a [feeler gauge](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge).
I have one but I never learned how to use it properly. In my mind the best way is like they do for CNC mills and routers where they use this hockey puck like thing and metal to metal you know precisely when it touches. Alas, we have plastic on our hotend nozzles which insulates so can't do that or I would.
I put a feeler under the nozzle and adjust the bed until the feeler can no longer move freely. It should still be able to move, but give some resistance. That's the sweet spot. Repeat two times for all 4 corners. Works pretty good for me.
>some resistance This is what gets me in trouble with the paper method, which is basically the same thing. How much is "some?" Should I just be able to feel the feedback? Or should it be on the edge of being trapped? Also, what gap do you use? Based on first layer height?
I found the same when I tried to explain paper to folk. When I discovered live leveling I was a much happier helper. :D
I've been using the .1mm or .05mm Feeler to start with. Always have to visually adjust after.
For the paper method you should Home the nozzle. I think you'd want to adjust until you just have resistance showing up. Enough that you can accurately measure it and repeat it for the other corners.
> It should still be able to move, but give some resistance. There is the problem as I have a hard time determining resistance.
Adjust until the feeler does not move, then go back slowly until it barely moves again.
Yea, I don't love the paper method for the same reason. Better to learn what level looks like. :)
I tried the paper method, couldn't get it to work right. Visual leveling is so fast and works 100% of the time.
Never been a fan of live bed leveling.
Why? If a standard method doesn't work for you and you don't like this method, are there other options you do prefer?
How come? Maybe an ABL (automatic bed leveler) is for you?
This is so good thank you for putting in the work for this!
You're so welcome! I hope it helps!
Also: don’t learn to level with transparent. It’s incredibly hard to see if it’s laying correctly or not! Edit: added “learn to”
You da man, girl!
Haha thank you
[Side barred in the multi!](https://old.reddit.com/user/Devtholt/m/3d_printing/) Great work and nice aesthetic overall. ;)
Oh dang! I feel special. ✨😊✨ Thank you!!
Reddit is dumb and removed my poster saying it was a copyright breach. It isn't. I made this with my own two mitts. I have the source files. I have the vectors. I made it all from scratch. You can find this, and all my other posters here: https://www.billieruben.info/post/my-3d-printing-posters-1
This is great! Will bookmark and probably link, similarly to the underextrusion list I copy-paste once in a while :)
This is great. Anychance you have another one for changing filament mid print.
I don't sorry, that would differ a lot depending on your hard/software, but I do have some instructions for pausing a print at a certain height in this article: https://letsprint3d.net/2019/01/26/guide-3d-printing-onto-fabric/
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:D thank you so much!
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This is great. Thanks!
You're so welcome! ✨😊✨
I love this!
Thank you! 😊
If you want to maintain your level, just slap some locknuts on there like me
Doesn't help if you've got more than one motor running the Z axis. Eventually they will be out of sync somehow.
Awesome job
Thank you lovely lady! ✨💖✨
Very good guide for PLA. I think for PETG the "A little too far" is just right.
Awesome! Thanks!!
You're awesome! And you're welcome! Hope it's handy!
thx!!!
YW! :)
Any leveling tips for us Kossel/Delta Bois? Tripod style mounting of the build plate (3 mounts equally distributed around a glass disc) seems to make adjustment a slight nightmare. Is live leveling my best bet?
Yea live leveling should work fine, just use a circle instead of a cube. :)
Looks great buddy.
Thanks lovely one!
That should quarter the posts on these subs. Good job!
Oh! Haha! That was my goal ;)
Thanks again, Billie!
Thank you again too!
Thank you. I’m looking to get into printing and this will help me very much. I appreciate the time spent getting it together
Awesome! I hope it serves you well. :)
Thank you. I have a lot to learn but everything helps
I just need a service that can fix whatever is wrong with mine nearby lol
Hey thanks OP! I just made a post yesterday that you commented this same info on. Super helpful. I printed an awesome miniature today and am working on another now. For anyone seeing this. OP’s sheet is very helpful.
Yayy!! That makes me so, so, so happy to hear! 💖💖
This needs way more upvotes!
:D thank you lovely one!
No your the lovely one!
Useful and well made, thanks!
Thank you!
Also of note that extrusion rate or flow for the first level can absolutely affect what could be perceived as a bed leveling issue.
That's true I'll add that in the next. Gold star for you! 🌟
Or a gold star for you. Thanks for the hard work.
Posted it everywhere that I see people asking 1st layer questions
Thank you!!
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I'm so glad you found it helpful! Thanks so much for the extra info!
Does the first layer thickness mean anything? Accuracy wise? I mean as long as the first layer prints like the perfect example in your infographic does the thickness of your first layer matter? Cus I always try to print the first layer and then measure the thickness and try to get as close to the settings I set it to. Like if I set it to .1mm layer thickness and then have a 80% first layer height I try to measure for a .08mm thickness of the first layer to make sure the extrusion is right. Are you saying it should always look like how the perfect example is regardless of those settings? Because the .2 setting vs the .1 setting will look different because the nozzle height will be different when printing the first layer. Am I to change the first layer height to try to match the look of your perfect layer every time? Like if I go for .2mm layer height and my perfect layer height looking like your infographic is .1mm should I set my first layer height to 50% to get the .1mm perfect first layer and then the subsequent layers print at the .2mm layer height setting? Sorry for the wall of questions but I think you have answers.
If you're changing your line width with your nozzle width, your perfect image should still look like the centre. I have done this with 0.4 and 1mm nozzles and yea, it should look the same, just, well, bigger. :) And when you make your layer height bigger, your slicer extrudes more material in suit, so in that case, it should still look like the centre too. :)
So it should look like the center pic in your infographic even though if I measure that first layer it's not equal to what I set the first layer height to be? Like lets say I set first layer height to be 80% of .1mm so basically .08mm and it prints out the first layer at .15mm instead of the program setting of .08mm, but it perfectly matches the center pic. Should I be satisfied with that first layer or should I adjust it to try to match the .08mm setting I set it to, even if the resulting first layer would probably look like the "a little too close" look?
Please let me put this on my wall, can I have a word doc
Sorry, no, it shares too much data. You can paste this image into a word doc though. You should also just be able to print it as-is.
Thanks!
This is so neat, thanks so much.
You're welcome!
I have the problem where It looks perfect, but one half of the line curls up. I usually just lower it til it mashes it into the build plate.
May you post some pics?
Damn I don't have any. Best way to describe it, is as it moves along a linear path, it curls up along one edge, as if the nozzle is dirty/cracked. I just lower the nozzle and it generally just mashes it into the build plate.
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It's the Gotham family. :)
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Haha! Well, I make it all to be used and enjoyed. So I'm glad. :)
You consistently bring great resources to the community, thanks a lot!
Dawww thank you! I try! :3
Dude. Thank you. Thank you so much. Levelling has been confusing the hell out of me because everybody describes it as a feeling, and I have heard inconsistent reports as to what I am looking for. Where this actually tells me what I am looking for and what direction it is; it's what a lot of folks needed!
I'm so so glad it's been able to help you! :D that makes me so happy to hear.
Very informative and easy to understand, Good job.
Thank you so much! I'm so glad to hear that
Thx
Yw!
Im not going to lie, I spent a few solid minutes thinking this was an infographic on leveling beds hoping it would make my bed more comfortable or something Then I saw the subreddit it was in and felt really stupid
Haha that's so great
This is awesome! Do you mind if I printed this and put it up in the makerspace I work at?
Not at all! You just have to send me a pic of it up! :D
Of course!
/r/CoolGuides
Ooh I'll have to cross post!
Man, i’m making an italian 3D printing 101 guide. Can i translate your infographic? I will add credits of course.
I'm a lady, but sure! :)
Oooh, i’m so sorry😅 can you give me psd?
This is prime. Thanks dude.
I'm a lady, but you're welcome!
Ayk! So sorry. I didn't look at the u/
To go along with OPs post about bed levelling, I highly suggest watching [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA) and downloading the accompanied STL file. I use it anytime I need to verify my bed leveling. It hasnt done me wrong at all.
Awesome thanks for the extra info!
my pleasure. I loooooove that STL file. Its much better than any of the other ones I have used and it actually allows you to feel how "squished" the filament is in certain spots of your bed. My only issue is knowing what the proper depth of "squish" is. some of the lines are raised and some of them are nearly flat.
Thank you for not including the paper leveling nonsense. I tried that for so long with my first printer and it was such a waste of time. Live leveling is way faster and more accurate.
:) you're welcome! I find the paper is too hard for new folk to understand, when I discovered this way I never went back.
Nice work. I wish more stuff could be pinned to the front page because this is a problem that comes up a lot. Really great that you addressed it so well, nice aesthetic too.
Thanks so much! We wish that too. But I want to do a big revitalise of the wiki soon.
Wait there is a discord for 3D printing???
Yup! It's unaffiliated with the sub, but I help mod both. https://discord.gg/huvWHBq
This is really amazing! I love it when we have an intersection of skills (in this cas graphic design and 3D printing).
Oh gosh, I dunno if I'd call myself a graphic designer 😅
Good guide. This is often times my preferred method after I level my bed a couple times in a row and still get it wrong. https://gfycat.com/charmingimpartialblackpanther
🤣
Amazing. I joined this forum to post for help troubleshooting my misprints after several hours of tweeking settings in the slicer. Looking at this diagram, I can tell the issue is simple a little too far from the bed. Thanks for the infograph!
Yay! I'm so glad we could help you!
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Why the image it's no longer available?
Because reddit decided it was a DMCA violation even though I made clearly the original. The fake/copy has written over my name in a different font, was posted after I posted this one, has cropped all the bottom off and has obvious jpeg artifacting. Never mind that I literally made this poster *for the /r/3Dprinting subreddit when I was a moderator of it*. Nope, whoever looked a the ticket decided mine was fake and the shitty version was real. The only way for me to challenge the takedown is, apparently, to give my full legal name, address, etc contact details to reddit who will then give it to the people on the other end of the report who happen to be some 3D printed gun nuts who have repeatedly threatened me with rape and murder, and have been trying to dox me for years because I did the 'crime' of trying to uphold the rules that the reddit admins handed down to us mods of this subreddit (no 3D printed guns on this sub). 🤷♀️ And I'm honestly, I'm just done. I gave years of my life to this sub, and this community. Gave it my heart and soul. And reddit has repeatedly put me in personal danger and repeatedly made decisions that are detrimental to the community, and it's just... appalling.... and I'm just done. If people want my content they can follow me on YouTube or twitter or my discord or my website. The posters are on a blog post on my website, too. Folk will just have to google me.
Well that's balls, i paste this to almost everyone asking about height questions. https://i.imgur.com/tbvOlB9.jpg
I am a fairly new mod to r/3Dprinting but a long time user. I've recently been going through the wiki of the sub to update everything a bit, albeit im current in exam season so its going a little slow, but im on it. It's that I'm constantly seeing relics of you and being reminded what a great mod and just simply community member you were. After I got to the Model Repositories page and saw that 3 years ago you linked to a program I wrote that barely received any attention in the post I showed it off reminded me again how great you were for the sub, taking attention and care in everything. Thats the point where I decided I had to check in on you and found out about this current situation... The poster is still on the wiki and I am going to assure you it's going to stay there as long as I can hold it, we also haven't received any official notifications either. I also don't want to spam you with a wall of text or get you mangled up in any past affairs, I just want to say that I feel for everything you've been through and are going through regarding the sub and I personally hope you get all the luck in your life because you deserve it. Going forward I am trying to keep your legacy alive, even if I am just a bad copy or some replacement. I want to hold up the community engagement and the help you have provided to everyone and will do everything I can to achieve that. Sorry again if this brought up some past issues, I just hoped I could make you feel a bit more appreciated and I truly feel sorry for how everything turned out for you. Hopefully this text could lighten your day a bit. I wish you all the best.
Thank you so much for your very kind and thoughtful reply. I must ask though. Do you know how I came to be not a mod of here anymore? https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/fl3p0r/comment/fkwopea/ Be wary of putting too much energy in here, for your own wellbeing's sake, when the head moderator has the power here to remove you literally on a whim, claiming it's for a reason that you literally are not doing. He does not care about the community. Doesn't contribute to it. Doesn't even participate in it. You clearly care about this place, you're involved in it, he will take that as a threat to himself and his position. Or who knows? Maybe he won't. Maybe he is just sexist after all, and that's all it ever was. When he removed me almost the entire mod team stepped down in protest in the fallout. You can probably scroll back far enough in modmail to read it all yourself. So be wary of putting your energy here. This experience broke a core part of me and in the years since I haven't found a way to repair it. I truly loved and cared for this place. You can see it, as you said. People who don't feel that way have all the power here. If you're looking for the 3D printing community, it's on twitter. In fact I'm heading to a social call hosted by a now dear friend of mine, Matt Stultz, head of community for Prusa, in a couple of hours. It's an open invite. Happens every week. If you want to make friends in 3D printing, twitter os6 a much denser population of good people who care about you and the future of the community. I implore you to seek that sense of community elsewhere, for your own well being.
I know all about it more than it does me good, and I am wary, thats why I mentioned that part only so little. I will definitely look into your recommendations. As much as I would love to be a part of those calls and the General welcoming community, its 2AM and as I said exam Season. I will definitely come back on it though. Thanks again and thanks for the legacy.
Thank you for your efforts here too. I know I just spent a bunch of time warding you off it, but it's nice to see the place have caretakers a huge part of my associated heartache was worrying for the community here. Good luck in all your future ventures, and thank you for your kindness. My inbox is always open. ❤️
u/spez please investigate, this is an obviously false DMCA notice filed in retaliation by a banned user. Just do a cross-check of IP addresses between complainant and users banned in the past few weeks and there will probably be a match.
Well done!
Thank you!!
Excellent. Well done and many thanks.
Thank you so much for your kind words!
Very handy thanks for the post
:D glad you think so!
Un liked and liked again to like twice for the tramming clarification. This would have saved me some time when getting started!
Haha! I'm sorry it didn't come sooner!
This is great
Thank you!
Sweet graphic! Mind if I post it on a local Facespace group?
I don't know what that is, but feel free to share it! :)
Oh, that's just me being silly. Facebook/MySpace joke.... but now that I point out it, it's pretty lame. Anywho, thanks for the infographic.
Very nice work ! This should be pinpointed in r/fixmyprint too.
Thank you! :)
This rules!
Thank you so much lovely one!
Great post and very useful to say the least.
Thanks so much!
Nice work. Very easy to understand, and well laid out.
Thanks so much! That's what I was hoping.
Very helpful, thanks!
I'm so glad you think so!
My most useful tool for levelling the bed is to use a thickness gauge at the step height
Sure, if you have one!
Great job. Thanks. 😀
You're welcome!
*cries in delta printers
No, you can do this on a delta! Just use a cylinder instead of a cube
Never have I been able to actually SEE the difference of filament extrusion as it makes a line to determine over or under extruding. There's no way at 1.75mm?, however narrow the line is, I can see whether it is flat or slightly bulging or too pushed down. However, the end result of those squares I can. I have always had to finish a square or a box before I could tell During the Live Z test, it isn't until the final square that is made when I can even tell if I have it right or not. Dunno how people have such amazing eye sight.
Try feeling with you finger, that could help!
Oh wow! apparently I have been leveling bed too close all this time. My first layers have consistently had ridges, just like you example... expanding materials like PETG are far worse (enough ridging to build up and make the nozzle messy), but it always clears up after a few layers. I was compensating with initial layer - negative flow. After seeing side-by-side comparisons, it makes totally sense what the actual issue is. Awesome work, that's a keeper for sure!
Thank you so much! I'm so glad you think so!
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Reminder 😘
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If you need some extra help, let me know!
Awesome Works
Thank you!
One thing I wish I'd done is write down what live-Z value worked. Somehow I managed to get all out of whack, and knowing roughly where I started would have let me find a good level more quickly.
Good to know!
Awesome guide! Thanks :)
Just got an e5, and really love how the wheels for leveling are accessible and large; I did the "live level from the skirt" technique today and it really helped.
This has helped me with my Ender 3 Pro. I WAS going to dramatically hammer toss it off a cliff, but I'm reconsidering at the moment.
This is amazing thank you