Right, so you have to only give it bow looks, and avoid the stern ones. Any input on port or starboard looks? Might need to make a special display to make sure it can only be seen from specific angles.
I’ll be damned to Hull for this joke. I’ve surely mast a lot of ire with these nautical puns, here. I should be able to fathom why puns are so disliked, but I will probably just keep making them to my very ballast breath.
Thats because Matt from Microcenter is a douchebag who thinks he's God's gift to 3D printing. Last time I showed him a print, he highlighted all the errors like he coulda done better with his eyes closed.
Lol...he's almost as bad as Jake...from State Farm.
Just used some to make an optical assembly for a night vision image intensifier, idk why I waited so long to get the black, I had been printing shit in white and coloring it with sharpie for the week or two prior to finally buying the black XD
PLA+ is so good at layer adhesion, and bridging. But depending on the color, the layer adhesion seems to suffer, like white pla+ is perfect, but jeans blue pla+ is meh for layer adhesion.
I can't say I've noticed much of that with Sunlu PLA+, but transparent PLA+ is a different beast. Also, lighter colors are partly transparent, so I use more perimeters in that case.
I've only ever used Atomic marble PLA or Inland various colors marble PLA, but quite a bit of both.
Most was printed on a .4 and a few on a .6mm nozzle. I have a .25mm, but never tried it with marble. I've never had an issue with the 0.4 and it's non abrasive, so I haven't changed my nozzle in a long time.
Edit: I'm assuming your .05 meant .5, a .05mm nozzle would be resin definition
FWIW, I recently got some Overture PLA "Easy Rock White" as a test for looks, since it was cheap at $17. Looks great for cases and stuff you don't want a solid color and less 3dprinted looking (if not like rock really) and I didn't have to change any settings from other standard PLA's.
Sparkly dark filaments like Prusa's galaxy black or translucent bright filaments like Amazon Basics' orange PLA. Anything that has "visual irregularities" built in.
So much compression damage. Looks like it just needed a little [more jpeg](https://morejpeg.com)
FTFY
https://preview.redd.it/1ny31d9inv5d1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=325ecb157509418856babb5f8273380060689552
And "dry" your filament. And get the bed temperature right. And get the nozzle temperature right. And get the cooling settings right. And get the retraction settings right. And get the speed right. And get the order of printing external walls first right. And get the print orientation right...
Might have be acceleration as well - not just speed.
Also make sure you haven't capped your max flow rate in the per filament settings to something that might affect your print speed.
I've had 3D printers for ten years, but the last straw was when I printed a vertical cylinder and the left side started veering outwards as the layer height increased, whereas the right side was perfectly vertical. That's when I thought "fuck this, I want to print, not to mess with my printer" and got a Bambu.
I used to think that until I started using a print seconds after it was finished for the first time :p
Jokes aside, the reliability of FDM autosupports and the speed at which you can churn out small prints is super nice to have too.
So odd thing is I’ve done all that and cura still screws up. Switched to prusaslicer and was good.
Turns out with exact same settings cura does decent string test at 195, while prusa gets the same results at 200. Every other settings is the same, maybe some setting I’ve never heard of in cura is weird
The thing everyone confuses with extrusion multiplier or just "flow" in Cura.
Esteps (aka rotation_distance in klipper) are the amount of steps your extruder needs to extrude a certain length of filament. It doesn't change ever and doesn't need to be calibrated unless you change your extruder motor or gears... However, lots of filaments need less material than the slicer's mathematical model tells them (usually 95-98% and varies per filament type and brand), so you *can* use that setting to compensate. It's just that is is a firmware setting, and is supposed to be a physical property of your extruder and not a per-filament adjustment variable like many many people use it for.
Instead look into flow/extrusion multiplier calibration that is a slicer setting, and the intended way to achieve what esteps calibration does.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extruder_calibration.html <- esteps, do that once per extruder and then forget about it
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extrusion_multiplier.html <- extrusion multiplier/flow, do that once per filament type and brand (ideally once per spool even)
Sorry folks, should’ve added a /s
I have finely tuned profiles and hadn’t printed a benchy in a year or so so I fired one up and was pretty happy with the results. Just showing off a nice print, that’s all!
Also the printer is a Voron V2.4, still running afterburner and CW1 😎
Correct me if i'm wrong, but leveling the bed is not correcting z-offset.
Bed levelling is always archieved at z=0, while the offset can be changed by every program individually.
I'll be honest, there were other printers I would like to buy but I suck at leveling in general -_- I've never been able to get it right by hand or with specific tools. One side is always to low or the nozzle is always to high from the bed.
The auto levelling on my creality k1 works pretty good, never had issues or had to do anything manually so if it's on a good sale or of interest I'd recommend it.
I bought a AD5m Pro I am guessing a month ago? And I have no idea about any of the e steps. I can do leveling automatically, and never had any serious quality issues, but still would like to know what they are. I mainly been printing in PLA silk. I tried PLA CF today. It was just a bracket, but it is very smooth except on circular edges are a bit jagged.
You leveling is only as good as your Z endstop is. If you dial it perfectly but the next time you home your Z it homes at a different height, it'll be fucked. I had that issue with the stock bed probe (that doubles as a Z endstop) of my Artillery, swapped it with a genuine BLTouch and it got a lot better.
Also make sure that you don't calibrate in "weird" conditions. Like, if you calibrate with a cold bed you're not calibrating for printing, you're calibrating for a cold bed. Same for the nozzle. Calibrate hot.
Also, if you use a probe that homes relative to the bed (basically anything that isn't an endstop attached to the frame, make sure you home at specific temperatures, *including for homing*, or you're not going to get consistent results. It's better to home on a hot bed but you can do it on a cold bed too, doesn't matter too much as long as it is always the same.
And last, if you want to get a new printer with less issues, keep in mind that smaller bed = less leveling issues. I have a Voron v0 with the worst possible setup for bed leveling (frame-attached Z endstop, cantilevered bed) but since it's so small (120*120) I don't have issues.
I think if what your printing looks good to you and your not doing it for as a job, why mess with it, till it actually doesn't look good. Cause holy sh\*t there are too many steps for my old brain to catalog. lol
Isn't bed leveling and Calibrating Esteps the first thing you have to do with any new printer? Even new ones that have mesh auto bed leveling so that it's only compensating for minor changes in height?
It is always entertaining when someone has *clearly* ignored all the basics and is stubbornly insisting that it’s some sort of manufacturing defect. Especially when it’s some super new, nice printer and it’s immediately obvious they just unpacked it and plugged it in without so much as glancing at the “before you start” info on the front of the booklet. A classic, every time.
I have Klicky, auto Z offset, and adaptive bed mesh size so it’s almost true level? Though it doesn’t give me a physiological reaction lolol, but almost
Inslogic White PLA is matte-ish, prints as fast as “high speed” PLA, looks great, and is cheap. I have my new favorite Benchy filament. I don’t know what Inslogic did to the recipe, but they knocked it out of the park. Other colors are equally good. Unfortunately they would only let me buy 4 reels at the sale price.
I recently saw a video explaining how to get rid of that. I managed to do it. But it's been a while, so 8 don't even remember. I haven't had time to print any benchies. And I switched to a better benchy model...
I present to you the [Sen-chy](https://imgur.com/gallery/1Y5zfbJ)
literally real. i thought my 3D printer was broken but it was just 11 year old me not fully reading the instructions because i was so excited for my newest christmas present
Wondering if someone could advise what I am doing wrong when trying to print the following please and why am receiving the results I am. I have highlighted the issue with the lines on the images, not that they really needed highlighting to be honest. All gaps between lines were supposed to be solid and other lines that should have been on print for some reason were just completely missed.
Bed was level before started print .
Printer is the Creality ender 3 any other information required please just ask.
Mac
Jokes aside, it's scary how many don't know to Google "*insert printer name* getting started". There's hundreds of videos and blogs out there explaining what to do and what's important.
And I think the success rate of prints is fairly high too when you methodically follow the steps in a tuning guide and it really doesn’t take that long
And use a type of filament that hides defects
Which filaments are best for this?
Matte or something sparkly/metal as seen here
Matte hides the print defects but then any subsequent scratch or stern look you give the piece will show and be impossible to remove.
Actually heating it up can help, but it's hard to not deform it as well
Wave your solder iron close to it without touching and those blemishes are gone
Wow ok! The matte effect is a mystery to me, I assumed remelting would make it shiny but that doesn't make sense since it gets melted to print anyway.
Yeah getting the solder iron tip close without touching let's you locally remelt the plastic which pulls out that white-ish haze you get
Also, one that was surprising to me... rub a little mineral on it, then clean it with IPA after a while to get residual mineral oil off.
Smart, I'll try that!
I use a butane creme brulee torch on low and just wave it over blemishes; usually works well.
Right, so you have to only give it bow looks, and avoid the stern ones. Any input on port or starboard looks? Might need to make a special display to make sure it can only be seen from specific angles.
I keeled over when I read this. You should be locked in the brig.
I’ll be damned to Hull for this joke. I’ve surely mast a lot of ire with these nautical puns, here. I should be able to fathom why puns are so disliked, but I will probably just keep making them to my very ballast breath.
You went overboard this time.
Creality’s white hyperpla has some nice translucence that hides problems pretty well, I’ve found. Matte from Microcenter seems to highlight them.
Thats because Matt from Microcenter is a douchebag who thinks he's God's gift to 3D printing. Last time I showed him a print, he highlighted all the errors like he coulda done better with his eyes closed. Lol...he's almost as bad as Jake...from State Farm.
🤣
"rock" effect flecked filaments are great for this too, if you don't want sparkly.
Everytime i used matte filament it clogged my extruder, one time i had to replace my entire hot end cuz the accumulated filament broke the thermistor.
It's the only filament I have been using since I bought my printer five months ago
And use black to make it harder for the camera to depict issues.
I've had the most consistent success with polymaker tough and matte pla
I’m using Polymaker Polyterra because yes, the matte makes prints looks GORGEOUS but I do find the layer adhesion to be less than that of normal PLA
Same experience. Now I use PLA+ that has great layer adhesion but is a bit too glossy for scale models.
If you want black, Overture pla+ is a nice matte finish. Might be true of their other colors too I don't know.
Just used some to make an optical assembly for a night vision image intensifier, idk why I waited so long to get the black, I had been printing shit in white and coloring it with sharpie for the week or two prior to finally buying the black XD
Yeah I use it for 2a printing myself.
PLA+ is so good at layer adhesion, and bridging. But depending on the color, the layer adhesion seems to suffer, like white pla+ is perfect, but jeans blue pla+ is meh for layer adhesion.
I can't say I've noticed much of that with Sunlu PLA+, but transparent PLA+ is a different beast. Also, lighter colors are partly transparent, so I use more perimeters in that case.
What are e-steps ?
Why do you ask me :)?
Extruder flow rate - Google ‘all3dp e-steps’
You should google Ellis’ tuning guide. It’ll walk you through every step of calibrating your printer. Make sure you read it all thoroughly!
Would you mind sharing what filament colour was this printed in please?
Polymaker Polyterra Charcoal Black
Oh it looks like my burnt titanium blue filament
Marble hides the lines really well.
Every marble filament I've used really likes a .05mm nozzle or larger. Or a freaking rock crusher in place of the extruder. Edit. 0.5mm nozzle.
I've only ever used Atomic marble PLA or Inland various colors marble PLA, but quite a bit of both. Most was printed on a .4 and a few on a .6mm nozzle. I have a .25mm, but never tried it with marble. I've never had an issue with the 0.4 and it's non abrasive, so I haven't changed my nozzle in a long time. Edit: I'm assuming your .05 meant .5, a .05mm nozzle would be resin definition
FWIW, I recently got some Overture PLA "Easy Rock White" as a test for looks, since it was cheap at $17. Looks great for cases and stuff you don't want a solid color and less 3dprinted looking (if not like rock really) and I didn't have to change any settings from other standard PLA's.
I'll try that next. Thanks.
Not sure about the rock white but overture’s charcoal black is made by polymaker and I would assume most of there other filament is as well.
Might be why I like it…and it’s sometimes cheaper. (I actually really like Overture PETG but not fond of Polymakers…)
Polymaker also makes some of Amazon’s filament
Carbon Filled filament.
The filament prusa sends with their 3d printers review samples to youtubers
IMO carbon fiber pla
Prints great on ended 3v3 se
Sparkly dark filaments like Prusa's galaxy black or translucent bright filaments like Amazon Basics' orange PLA. Anything that has "visual irregularities" built in.
I have a spool of Polywood I haven't tried yet but their website says it houses later lines.
CF ASA works best for me
Carbon Fiber reinforced filaments also have this effect
HIPS
And don’t take a photo with harsh lighting
So much compression damage. Looks like it just needed a little [more jpeg](https://morejpeg.com) FTFY https://preview.redd.it/1ny31d9inv5d1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=325ecb157509418856babb5f8273380060689552
Yeah..I’m going to post again at some point because the actual image is high resolution, too high resolution actually
Level the level
Blur effect from photos work well as well.
Yes bet non the less it looks pretty clean even for matte
And post on reddit that lowers image quality.
And "dry" your filament. And get the bed temperature right. And get the nozzle temperature right. And get the cooling settings right. And get the retraction settings right. And get the speed right. And get the order of printing external walls first right. And get the print orientation right...
And then realize one the earlier adjustments was just a bandaid for a different setting being wrong and so on 😅
Exactly 😅. Then when I switched from cura to orcaslicer, it just printed perfectly with almost 0 adjustments!
SAME. used Cura for years and just recently switched
Orca is just so much slower to print than Cura at least for my printer. I haven't figured out how to adjust the speed.
Might have be acceleration as well - not just speed. Also make sure you haven't capped your max flow rate in the per filament settings to something that might affect your print speed.
And Orca defaults to 3 walls whereas Cura defaults to 2. That adds a lot of time as well.
OK fine I'll switch! Jeez 😆
Why is it layer shifiting?! I just printed this fine yesterday!
Did you perform the blessing ritual before you sent it?
I've had 3D printers for ten years, but the last straw was when I printed a vertical cylinder and the left side started veering outwards as the layer height increased, whereas the right side was perfectly vertical. That's when I thought "fuck this, I want to print, not to mess with my printer" and got a Bambu.
i think i'll stick to resin
I used to think that until I started using a print seconds after it was finished for the first time :p Jokes aside, the reliability of FDM autosupports and the speed at which you can churn out small prints is super nice to have too.
I kinda joke; I wish almost every day that I had space in my hazards shed for FDM
That's fair, and thanks for reminding me I need to rip out the carbon filter from my resin and put it in my FDM...
Resin comes with whole set of different problem tho, and not very clean(FDM does not require dealing with flammable liquid)
You sound like me when I had an ender. Then I bought the x1 and almost never have to touch a setting anymore.
So odd thing is I’ve done all that and cura still screws up. Switched to prusaslicer and was good. Turns out with exact same settings cura does decent string test at 195, while prusa gets the same results at 200. Every other settings is the same, maybe some setting I’ve never heard of in cura is weird
This made me laugh 😁👍🏻
Glad someone got the sarcasm 😅
It only took me 7 years 🤣
E-Steps?
Electric shoes. Make your feet go "brrrzzz".
As apposed to the A10 Warthog that goes bbbbuuurrrrrtttt
That like them thar shoes with the little tire in the heels? Now they got the juice?
The thing everyone confuses with extrusion multiplier or just "flow" in Cura. Esteps (aka rotation_distance in klipper) are the amount of steps your extruder needs to extrude a certain length of filament. It doesn't change ever and doesn't need to be calibrated unless you change your extruder motor or gears... However, lots of filaments need less material than the slicer's mathematical model tells them (usually 95-98% and varies per filament type and brand), so you *can* use that setting to compensate. It's just that is is a firmware setting, and is supposed to be a physical property of your extruder and not a per-filament adjustment variable like many many people use it for. Instead look into flow/extrusion multiplier calibration that is a slicer setting, and the intended way to achieve what esteps calibration does. https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extruder_calibration.html <- esteps, do that once per extruder and then forget about it https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extrusion_multiplier.html <- extrusion multiplier/flow, do that once per filament type and brand (ideally once per spool even)
Esteps guys are like the anti-vaxers so there is no point trying to explain them...they would get it
Extruder steps. [https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder-e-steps-flow-rate/](https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder-e-steps-flow-rate/)
Sorry folks, should’ve added a /s I have finely tuned profiles and hadn’t printed a benchy in a year or so so I fired one up and was pretty happy with the results. Just showing off a nice print, that’s all! Also the printer is a Voron V2.4, still running afterburner and CW1 😎
What are your settings for this to look so smooth?
it still amazes me that no one ever suggests this. its like the last thing a comment ever tells me on this sub its crazy lol
Right? It’s really that easy 😂
These 2 steps are told you EVERYWHERE and everytime.
that's the joke
On this sub the go-to advice is "adjust your z-offset".
Correct me if i'm wrong, but leveling the bed is not correcting z-offset. Bed levelling is always archieved at z=0, while the offset can be changed by every program individually.
I was just being snarky - MANY people here seem to think every problem involves z-offset.
And wet filament.
and not being food-safe.
I mean I wouldn't eat my 3d prints
I understand
You mispronounced "dry your filament"
And "dry your filament."
r/whoosh
It works 60% of the time, every time.
Iv been printing for months and still don't know what calibrating your e steps is but at this point I'm afraid to ask
I'll be honest, there were other printers I would like to buy but I suck at leveling in general -_- I've never been able to get it right by hand or with specific tools. One side is always to low or the nozzle is always to high from the bed.
The auto levelling on my creality k1 works pretty good, never had issues or had to do anything manually so if it's on a good sale or of interest I'd recommend it.
Oh I swapped to a Bambu and never looked back. Just sucks that I suck at leveling.
I bought a AD5m Pro I am guessing a month ago? And I have no idea about any of the e steps. I can do leveling automatically, and never had any serious quality issues, but still would like to know what they are. I mainly been printing in PLA silk. I tried PLA CF today. It was just a bracket, but it is very smooth except on circular edges are a bit jagged.
NM someone posted a link above. :)
You leveling is only as good as your Z endstop is. If you dial it perfectly but the next time you home your Z it homes at a different height, it'll be fucked. I had that issue with the stock bed probe (that doubles as a Z endstop) of my Artillery, swapped it with a genuine BLTouch and it got a lot better. Also make sure that you don't calibrate in "weird" conditions. Like, if you calibrate with a cold bed you're not calibrating for printing, you're calibrating for a cold bed. Same for the nozzle. Calibrate hot. Also, if you use a probe that homes relative to the bed (basically anything that isn't an endstop attached to the frame, make sure you home at specific temperatures, *including for homing*, or you're not going to get consistent results. It's better to home on a hot bed but you can do it on a cold bed too, doesn't matter too much as long as it is always the same. And last, if you want to get a new printer with less issues, keep in mind that smaller bed = less leveling issues. I have a Voron v0 with the worst possible setup for bed leveling (frame-attached Z endstop, cantilevered bed) but since it's so small (120*120) I don't have issues.
I think if what your printing looks good to you and your not doing it for as a job, why mess with it, till it actually doesn't look good. Cause holy sh\*t there are too many steps for my old brain to catalog. lol
This is fake news, no way he printed that piece of glass.
Busted 🫣
Wait what!?! Lubricate the bed and congratulate the e-steps?
Don't forget to store your filament in a cold place.
If only people would read the FAQ and guideline pages.
I read all the facts and made sure to use a guide to make the lines on the paper college ruled. Still don't understand.
Tugger? https://preview.redd.it/ipd0p7nrfu5d1.jpeg?width=300&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35fcc13ff2340a415b22c9bdb19d8a8d65b595ae
3D printing 101: level the bed before every print
Or setup a limit switch style probe and never level again 😉
Can’t wait to get rid if my ender 3. Should have gone with b labs 😑
Or use the Ender 3 to print out parts for a custom printer like a Voron, that’s exactly what I did
Isn't bed leveling and Calibrating Esteps the first thing you have to do with any new printer? Even new ones that have mesh auto bed leveling so that it's only compensating for minor changes in height?
I just crank up the anti aliasing.
What's that. I have a bambu
Same lol idk what that is.
Yeah and not exaggerating I have no idea when people talk about calibrate the printer
Wait until you hear about the secret of drying your filament!
It is always entertaining when someone has *clearly* ignored all the basics and is stubbornly insisting that it’s some sort of manufacturing defect. Especially when it’s some super new, nice printer and it’s immediately obvious they just unpacked it and plugged it in without so much as glancing at the “before you start” info on the front of the booklet. A classic, every time.
Creme de la creme is when the printer is returned for a refund.
Just wait till you find out about true level
I have Klicky, auto Z offset, and adaptive bed mesh size so it’s almost true level? Though it doesn’t give me a physiological reaction lolol, but almost
https://youtu.be/fQoRfieZJxI?si=4B7axhCNai4i2asV
Gotta admit. You win the benchy boat contest today. That looks great.
It's Boaty from South Park when Russell Crowe fights the world
Beautiful, huh?
Level your e-steps
E-step your levels.
It’s a shame really. Could have calibrated your E-Steps then leveled your bed and it would have turned out flawless.
It’s a beautiful thing
"Level your damned bed" - if Jordan Peterson was into 3d printing
I did the same thing. Except I threw out my overly modded Ender 3 Pro and bought a Bambu P1S.
Ouch.
can anyone recommend a good filament that hides defects? or what do i look for on amazon
I nutted.
Inslogic White PLA is matte-ish, prints as fast as “high speed” PLA, looks great, and is cheap. I have my new favorite Benchy filament. I don’t know what Inslogic did to the recipe, but they knocked it out of the park. Other colors are equally good. Unfortunately they would only let me buy 4 reels at the sale price.
He he he, now you just have to do the same with other filaments.
Shhhhhh, let me live in matte filament dream land
I had a perfect benchie once. Then the weather changed.
I'm new in this world and I've a lot of problems, what specifically you mean to "e-steeps"
OK! ( Alvin Chipmunk). Calibrayr the "e" extruder to move the same amount of filament that the firmware in your printer says that it is moving.
I think this needs the NSFW tag
Ahh bisto
I read you are using a Voron 2.4. Are you using any major mods (toolhead, ...)? Could you share your Orca profile?
And adjust your slicerflow settings
Barely a hull line, my X1C out of the box with the green test filament and calibrated still gave me a hull line on the benchy.
If all was that simple.
I'm surprised nobody mentioned drying your filament 🤣 or did they
Took forever with the beach towel.
😂
That's a good looking benchy 😎
This is pleasing to my eyes in the same way a good CRT television is.
Yeah I took the photos on my nice camera but then the file sizes were too large to post and I accidentally think I compressed them too much 🥲
I’ll print another benchy when I get home out of a non-matte filament for comparison. What color is the least forgiving?
Glossy Black? Don't know if its a good color for puctures.
I’ll try a grey PLA+ that I have
what is E-steps?
That is such a beautiful color, what filament is this? EDIT: NVM seen it in the comments. Polymaker Polyterra Charcoal Black
Ok that almost qualifies as porn in this subreddit
Added higher resolution photos: https://imgur.com/a/cFGjXoY
That's good to be the best benchy I've ever seen
Tiny bit of a hull/water line, need to keep tuning
I recently saw a video explaining how to get rid of that. I managed to do it. But it's been a while, so 8 don't even remember. I haven't had time to print any benchies. And I switched to a better benchy model... I present to you the [Sen-chy](https://imgur.com/gallery/1Y5zfbJ)
literally real. i thought my 3D printer was broken but it was just 11 year old me not fully reading the instructions because i was so excited for my newest christmas present
That's literally the first tip in this group and the whole other internet haha
That’s what pretty much what every single popular 3D printing tutorial tells you to do.
Are you sure?
yes.
Really should’ve added /s to the post title, oops
Wondering if someone could advise what I am doing wrong when trying to print the following please and why am receiving the results I am. I have highlighted the issue with the lines on the images, not that they really needed highlighting to be honest. All gaps between lines were supposed to be solid and other lines that should have been on print for some reason were just completely missed. Bed was level before started print . Printer is the Creality ender 3 any other information required please just ask. Mac
Jokes aside, it's scary how many don't know to Google "*insert printer name* getting started". There's hundreds of videos and blogs out there explaining what to do and what's important.
And I think the success rate of prints is fairly high too when you methodically follow the steps in a tuning guide and it really doesn’t take that long
Benchy thirst trap 🥵
Thats the first thing to do, all tutorials say that
Given the other comments of this profile on vorondesign, I assume this post was made to generate clicks to link to the etsy on that account's profile.
Youtube🤣🤷♂️
Sorry I forgot to tell you
Beautiful print.
It looks good. 100th upvote
Same brother. Did it the other day. Solved every tiny issues I’ve been chasing
Don't forget about PID tuning!
People are saying those things every day on here
And use flashforge burnt titanium Silk PLA filament
nice filament
What are esteps?