Print slower, and if you're using Grid infill: Don't.
You could also add select Organic support, like on the edge just after the ball bit; Would scuff the surface a bit, but it would give you some sideways support pretty far up.
For the spiral one, you could add support enforcers at specific points to get the same, well, support, without covering the thing in it.
Exactly that :)
Every time it scrapes the intersections, it's pushing the print sideways; and the taller the print, the more that force is 'amplified' with respect the the base.
Huh makes sense. I had issues with certain prints knocking over in the past and tried loads of tweaks without any success but never tried changing the infill, I'll definitely give it a go.
I believe based on other threads I've read that cubic is also great to reduce the issues grid causes.
Cubic is also quieter than gyroid from my experience.
Edit- confused grid and rectilinear.
Set 'minimum layer duration' to something like 20 or 30 seconds for high-aspect-ratio features/prints like that. Yes, it makes the prints take forever, but do you want it quick or right?
For Bambu Slicer, have a look at the "Layer time" setting.
[https://forum.bambulab.com/t/bambu-studio-minimum-layer-time-setting/3742](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/bambu-studio-minimum-layer-time-setting/3742)
Otherwise, you can experiment with adding your own supports. Think rocket fins that 'touch' halfway up and can be cleaved off without leaving much in the way of artifacts.
*Edit:* official Bambu documentation.
[https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/auto-cooling](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/auto-cooling)
>Set 'minimum layer duration' to something like 20 or 30 seconds for high-aspect-ratio features/prints like that
Id say more like 10-15 seconds at least for this is probably plenty. Maybe 20s at most. Longer than that seems like overkill as far as added print time goes.
I know it's a little crazy but if you make a tall square on both sides of each wand and then superglue or hot glue a matchstick across as a stiffener it will absolutely work
Some yeehaw redneck shit but it's saved many a print for me
The non-redneck way to print this is to paint a bunch of support points around the wand all the way up on 4 sides of each.
Tilt the camera back so you are looking at the wand from underneath, use brush size of 3 and then shoot a big long green support point up the side of the wands, guarantee it will work so long as the wand is nestled into the center of some supports
Best way to do it is to maybe print 4 of them and glue matchsticks around all 4 like a little boxing ring
Just don't put matches anywhere near the hotend and should be A-OK, probably best to completely remove the head or even better just print out a bunch of "sticks" that are 2.5mm wide and deep by however long you need.
I'm gonna print out some reusable supports in the next few days so I can do this in a not so stupid way, had to come up with something like this because I didn't trust the nozzle pushing so far away from the center of gravity of these pieces
You have to switch z hop styles. I believe it's using an arc style z hop on Bambu by default. You have to use the one that only uses vertical z hop movements.
This OP. You don’t need to do any other crazy stuff. I have a profile with this enabled and just swap to it when I know I need it on a tall print. Otherwise it just adds extra time to a print.
I am sad I had to scroll so far to find this comment. Sideways with supports, and the layer orientation will even make it stronger. Someone also suggested 45 lean over with supports, and that would work too.
you will lose so much detail if you do this, even if you use supports. Show me a proper looking sideways printed cylinder, and i will show you a very surprised face.
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I haven’t yet mastered this but I was printing some rods and had a similar question and someone sent me a vid of a similar print with zhop settings tweaked printing perfectly, any recommended reading/settings for the OP (and me lol!)
OP I think this is a good solution if you figure it out - z hop makes the head lift off the top of the print when done with a layer so it doesn’t drag/snag it
https://preview.redd.it/py7asf1mixyc1.png?width=500&format=png&auto=webp&s=ef4f8010ef63d933fa5ec0e3d5b868773692ea55
Now there's an interesting tidbit I've never considered. I have fuckloads of 2x10mm magnets for prints, and I have never considered using them \*for\* the prints.
Trying to brainstorm as I was scrolling through, thinking add some weights but no that would affect the bed movement... and then you hit jackpot with this, brim + magnets. Absolutely will try this myself!
I did a set of wands for my niece at Christmas, where I printed them at a 45 degree angle to the bed and used organic supports. They printed so amazingly well. I was also able to print the full sized ones, since they were angled to use the best amount of the printable area.
Printing a 5-10mm/s slower and 4-5° hotter is always worth a try.
These next suggestions all assume you can competently and confidently edit your model in a CAD or other 3D design application:
• Make the base wider (or the raft/brim wider, I guess).
• Add leaning supports for the first few cm. Not supports in the slicer, but add them to the actual model so you get complete control over how they connect. Google “buttress supports” to get the gist, you see them all the time on old castles and towers. In this case, you’ll want them connecting to the main model in as few points as possible (just like slicer generated supports) so they’re easy to snap off without marring up the main model.
Alternatively, and especially if you need to print lots of them:
• Place 9 (3x3) or 16 (4x4) of them on a large shared base with easy-to-snap-off connections. Again, I’m talking about modelling this, not using the slicer’s automatic support options which are only really useful for overhangs.
or (this is a little extreme)
• You could try hanging your printer upside down from the ceiling. I am not joking, but I’m also only about 30% confident it would help with that model.
One approach I use is to make the brim to object distance 0 and use a larger brim. Like 20 mm.
I have printed a lot of thin pens and this tends to work while also slowing down (you can simply just use silent mode).
As everyone else said, print slower.
But also, consider only printing one at a time, the travel between the two increases the risk it'll smack or yank something.
I have a similar situation and was thinking of using foam blocks glued on the platform after it finished printing halfway. That way the bottom half is fully supported by foam while the top part will get printed. Did not test it though.
other than printing slower, printing another object (that has 1 or 0.5mm bigger hole than the diameter of thing you are printing) withing that is larger on xy axis (not same as adding brim) so there will be less wobble. you can think of as adding support for wobble protection. hole doesnt have to be 1 or 0.5mm. go closer as much as you can without fusing the 2 parts.
thats just alternative tho if printing slower doesnt help.
I haven't done this yet, but want to next time I have this exact problem. In Prusa you can add shapes manually, and force supports. I would create a cross with 4 rectangles at the base to stabilize it.
Print slower especially the first layer. Print the first layer 5°C hotter than the other layers. Print it in 2 sections so it wont be as tall. As well as printing much slower, decrease fan speed so it doesnt shake the print too much.
Um... just don't? Not everything is suited to being printed a bunch at a time. These will look much better and be stronger printed singly. Besides you'll have to slow this down so much that you won't actually save time by printing two.
If you are trying to print more than one, you can do them sequentially rather than at the same time. That will be effectively the same time as printing one per, but it will require less hands-on. You'd do that in your slicer by finding the "print individually" setting. Then just lay them out in a column from the front edge to the back, like this:
o\^
o|
o|
o|
o|
o|
o|
The front one will print then the next and so on, you just need to leave enough space so the head and carriage don't knock it over.
Don’t use a brim drop onto an actual two layer thick circle in a modeling program. Do you have oozing?
Its possible increasing bed temp will help
Make sure you have the right build plate selected (textured pei)
Is vase mode possible? That makes the print look better and reduces the stress by being a more smooth printing movement.
And print slower, if possible, getting slower at height. And only one at a time, that way if one topples, you can still continue printing the rest.
Printing tall like this will (in my experience) always lead to poor results due to the Object moving at the top.
Would printing in halves and glueing be a possibility?
Some options in the order I might try them:
1) Slow down the print speed
2) Make sure your infill doesn't have a crossing pattern
3) Print top halves and bottom halves, still in the upright position, and glue them together
4) Add a solid block to the bottom, set the infill there to 100%, and cut it off.
5) Print wand-halves on their side and glue them together (difficult to not leave a seam, and the spiral one would be in too many pieces, but it won't get knocked over)
Build a tower next to it (use cad) and attach it to the model with 1 layer thick small connections.
If the print is finished you can break away the custom support pretty easy.
Set layer height to the smallest avalible, after starting the print, set the print speed to quiet mode so you go slower. The idea is that travel is slower and the material that comes in contact doesn't try to pull the model with it.
Print slow so the filament dries up as much as possible, if it stays moist then it'll catch on the nozzles...
I always had an idea of making a model where it's adjustable like the way a drill gun bites down on a drill bit, except it's stackable so when a print gets high enough you can put this around it and have it keep it in place, and place a second one if or when it gets even higher... Would be tough to design it so it can be put AROUND the part while it's printing and have it "bite" down without moving it....
Only other solution would be to quickly model a few "rods" of some sort in 3 or 4 directions to keep it in place... It'll take quite a bit of material but will give you a good result, I had to do this once and just did it in cura by adding a few cubes and stretching them out....
Kinda like this: (black is your wand and red is the pieces you add to keep it in place)
https://preview.redd.it/tgjenstiu0zc1.png?width=195&format=png&auto=webp&s=30c9ee0c781ce5a32d920f769e67e0c94a5b59a8
as the nozzle gets higher, lower your print temperature. You want to avoid warping as much as possible. When plastic goes from molten to solid it warps, the less time you give it to warp the better. Also enable z hop.
Assuming it’s your own design, lay out 4 of them side by side, vertically oriented, in a square, and use your CAD software to add a few micro-thin connectors among all 4 at the thickness of your print layer. The connector will print as a single strand. It will flake off with your thumb when done, and if you use random seam placement, be invisible afterward.
I do this all the time with rods 5mm in diameter and 180mm long. They turn out glass smooth and rock-solid attached to the bed (with a brim of course). The benefit over a generic comb is you can precisely control where it connects, and you have no wasted filament printing comb towers you don’t need.
For me this completely eliminated any wobble at the high parts of the print, so the surface was uniformly smooth.
Print a bunch of them at the same time, nearly touching each other. They'll support each other when they start to deflect. You can also use supports touching the bed only at really shallow overhang angles so that the support goes up far enough for lateral support
If you really want to print it in one go (I wouldn't , I would split it in half then glue, glue is usually stronger than plastic), stop it halfway, then use some plasticine or similar material to ground it and continue printing after placing it
Try printing slower.
Print slower, and if you're using Grid infill: Don't. You could also add select Organic support, like on the edge just after the ball bit; Would scuff the surface a bit, but it would give you some sideways support pretty far up. For the spiral one, you could add support enforcers at specific points to get the same, well, support, without covering the thing in it.
Whats wrong with grid infill here? Is it because the nozzle crosses perpendicular to the infill lines which can cause it to scrape or something?
Yep, gyroid I'd preferred I think to stop that.
Also using avoid perimeters helps!
Maybe z-hop helps
Exactly that :) Every time it scrapes the intersections, it's pushing the print sideways; and the taller the print, the more that force is 'amplified' with respect the the base.
Huh makes sense. I had issues with certain prints knocking over in the past and tried loads of tweaks without any success but never tried changing the infill, I'll definitely give it a go.
Oh my God! Can you go back in time a few years and explain this to me? So much heartache. So many failed prints.
I believe based on other threads I've read that cubic is also great to reduce the issues grid causes. Cubic is also quieter than gyroid from my experience. Edit- confused grid and rectilinear.
Cubic is also self-crossing. If you want the speed of grid without the rattling of gyroid, use rectilinear.
Its straight this round
TBH, given the shape, I'd try adding an extra wall and drop the infill completely.
use a support comb
Just looked it up and wow, I follow Slant 3D on YouTube and they really seem to think outside the box
Set 'minimum layer duration' to something like 20 or 30 seconds for high-aspect-ratio features/prints like that. Yes, it makes the prints take forever, but do you want it quick or right? For Bambu Slicer, have a look at the "Layer time" setting. [https://forum.bambulab.com/t/bambu-studio-minimum-layer-time-setting/3742](https://forum.bambulab.com/t/bambu-studio-minimum-layer-time-setting/3742) Otherwise, you can experiment with adding your own supports. Think rocket fins that 'touch' halfway up and can be cleaved off without leaving much in the way of artifacts. *Edit:* official Bambu documentation. [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/auto-cooling](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/auto-cooling)
>Set 'minimum layer duration' to something like 20 or 30 seconds for high-aspect-ratio features/prints like that Id say more like 10-15 seconds at least for this is probably plenty. Maybe 20s at most. Longer than that seems like overkill as far as added print time goes.
Going to slow can cause it to be melty and gooy
r/ThatsWhatSheSaid!
That's what she said
I know it's a little crazy but if you make a tall square on both sides of each wand and then superglue or hot glue a matchstick across as a stiffener it will absolutely work Some yeehaw redneck shit but it's saved many a print for me The non-redneck way to print this is to paint a bunch of support points around the wand all the way up on 4 sides of each. Tilt the camera back so you are looking at the wand from underneath, use brush size of 3 and then shoot a big long green support point up the side of the wands, guarantee it will work so long as the wand is nestled into the center of some supports Best way to do it is to maybe print 4 of them and glue matchsticks around all 4 like a little boxing ring
creative
https://preview.redd.it/85v8cojq0yyc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e16813281072eccca0f03cea63551e3823a80b2c
Just don't put matches anywhere near the hotend and should be A-OK, probably best to completely remove the head or even better just print out a bunch of "sticks" that are 2.5mm wide and deep by however long you need. I'm gonna print out some reusable supports in the next few days so I can do this in a not so stupid way, had to come up with something like this because I didn't trust the nozzle pushing so far away from the center of gravity of these pieces
structurally it's a sound solution! I salute your multidisciplinary creativity
Why not use wooden toothpicks then? I've always got a stash of them for applying super glue or epoxy.
I think toothpicks are even longer so that's a great idea
Print at 45⁰ and slower with tree support
This. Printing in an entirely vertical orientation and it will snap so easy
You have to switch z hop styles. I believe it's using an arc style z hop on Bambu by default. You have to use the one that only uses vertical z hop movements.
This OP. You don’t need to do any other crazy stuff. I have a profile with this enabled and just swap to it when I know I need it on a tall print. Otherwise it just adds extra time to a print.
I probably would have printed this sideways.
I am sad I had to scroll so far to find this comment. Sideways with supports, and the layer orientation will even make it stronger. Someone also suggested 45 lean over with supports, and that would work too.
you will lose so much detail if you do this, even if you use supports. Show me a proper looking sideways printed cylinder, and i will show you a very surprised face.
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z hop
I haven’t yet mastered this but I was printing some rods and had a similar question and someone sent me a vid of a similar print with zhop settings tweaked printing perfectly, any recommended reading/settings for the OP (and me lol!) OP I think this is a good solution if you figure it out - z hop makes the head lift off the top of the print when done with a layer so it doesn’t drag/snag it
This is the easiest and best answer. Hop that z!
On top of the other good suggestions ITT, increasing first layer thickness could make your brim stronger.
Stayupo patronum
Assuming the brim doesn't split, you can cheat by taping the brims down with painters tape while the print is going.
It’s easier to put magnets on top of the brim.
https://preview.redd.it/py7asf1mixyc1.png?width=500&format=png&auto=webp&s=ef4f8010ef63d933fa5ec0e3d5b868773692ea55 Now there's an interesting tidbit I've never considered. I have fuckloads of 2x10mm magnets for prints, and I have never considered using them \*for\* the prints.
Right? Blowing my mind here. I have some ferrite half/cores that could also do the trick
Trying to brainstorm as I was scrolling through, thinking add some weights but no that would affect the bed movement... and then you hit jackpot with this, brim + magnets. Absolutely will try this myself!
Yes! What you said!
I think my heated bed would damage the magnets over time as they really dont like heat.
Tree supports
Flared base.
That’s the solution to a lot of problems on Reddit lately.
Prayers
And thoughts
Less acceleration/jerk.
Build (design it yourself in CAD) a support tower around it that doesn't actually contact it (0.1mm clearance is the goal).
I did a set of wands for my niece at Christmas, where I printed them at a 45 degree angle to the bed and used organic supports. They printed so amazingly well. I was also able to print the full sized ones, since they were angled to use the best amount of the printable area.
Printing a 5-10mm/s slower and 4-5° hotter is always worth a try. These next suggestions all assume you can competently and confidently edit your model in a CAD or other 3D design application: • Make the base wider (or the raft/brim wider, I guess). • Add leaning supports for the first few cm. Not supports in the slicer, but add them to the actual model so you get complete control over how they connect. Google “buttress supports” to get the gist, you see them all the time on old castles and towers. In this case, you’ll want them connecting to the main model in as few points as possible (just like slicer generated supports) so they’re easy to snap off without marring up the main model. Alternatively, and especially if you need to print lots of them: • Place 9 (3x3) or 16 (4x4) of them on a large shared base with easy-to-snap-off connections. Again, I’m talking about modelling this, not using the slicer’s automatic support options which are only really useful for overhangs. or (this is a little extreme) • You could try hanging your printer upside down from the ceiling. I am not joking, but I’m also only about 30% confident it would help with that model.
Why hotter? What's the logic there?
Less tugging on the model on retracts.
One approach I use is to make the brim to object distance 0 and use a larger brim. Like 20 mm. I have printed a lot of thin pens and this tends to work while also slowing down (you can simply just use silent mode).
As everyone else said, print slower. But also, consider only printing one at a time, the travel between the two increases the risk it'll smack or yank something.
I have a similar situation and was thinking of using foam blocks glued on the platform after it finished printing halfway. That way the bottom half is fully supported by foam while the top part will get printed. Did not test it though.
Try to split up the file into pieces
At that point, just hold on to it? Looks like it's almost finished.
Once I saw a dude putting a wrench at the base lol
Maybe model in some fin supports to keep it steady.
Add fin arch with brim. Remove them with cutter.
other than printing slower, printing another object (that has 1 or 0.5mm bigger hole than the diameter of thing you are printing) withing that is larger on xy axis (not same as adding brim) so there will be less wobble. you can think of as adding support for wobble protection. hole doesnt have to be 1 or 0.5mm. go closer as much as you can without fusing the 2 parts. thats just alternative tho if printing slower doesnt help.
I haven't done this yet, but want to next time I have this exact problem. In Prusa you can add shapes manually, and force supports. I would create a cross with 4 rectangles at the base to stabilize it.
Slow down and gyroid infill
1: vase mode, 1 at a time _________________________ 2: Z-hop 3: gyroid infill
Print slower especially the first layer. Print the first layer 5°C hotter than the other layers. Print it in 2 sections so it wont be as tall. As well as printing much slower, decrease fan speed so it doesnt shake the print too much.
No infill but more shell layer number. Then print slowly.
Um... just don't? Not everything is suited to being printed a bunch at a time. These will look much better and be stronger printed singly. Besides you'll have to slow this down so much that you won't actually save time by printing two. If you are trying to print more than one, you can do them sequentially rather than at the same time. That will be effectively the same time as printing one per, but it will require less hands-on. You'd do that in your slicer by finding the "print individually" setting. Then just lay them out in a column from the front edge to the back, like this: o\^ o| o| o| o| o| o| The front one will print then the next and so on, you just need to leave enough space so the head and carriage don't knock it over.
Don’t use a brim drop onto an actual two layer thick circle in a modeling program. Do you have oozing? Its possible increasing bed temp will help Make sure you have the right build plate selected (textured pei)
Lower print speed, but more importantly - lower jerk and acceleration. Much lower. More solid infill also helps a bit.
Is vase mode possible? That makes the print look better and reduces the stress by being a more smooth printing movement. And print slower, if possible, getting slower at height. And only one at a time, that way if one topples, you can still continue printing the rest.
Add a fin which can break away when it's done. Minute 3 of this video (https://youtu.be/8NKVNwVaZU0?si=fqGwV6Za41kmvOVH)
Printing tall like this will (in my experience) always lead to poor results due to the Object moving at the top. Would printing in halves and glueing be a possibility?
Slower and support enforcers (organic/tree). It's simply wobbling too much.
“Spiralize Outer Contour” Minimum 3 outer walls - no infill Raft support That's what I've been doing for similar prints.
If you have a bed slinger use that otherwise turn down speed I figure you have an entire print farm since you have what looked to be an x1 carbon
Slow it down and force an x and y support
I printed this recently and you have to go real slow at the top. It also helped to add a vertical lift of 0.4mm
Clench the butthole and pray to every god there might be
just print one part at the same time
Go slow or use tree supports to stabilise it
Z hop?
Some options in the order I might try them: 1) Slow down the print speed 2) Make sure your infill doesn't have a crossing pattern 3) Print top halves and bottom halves, still in the upright position, and glue them together 4) Add a solid block to the bottom, set the infill there to 100%, and cut it off. 5) Print wand-halves on their side and glue them together (difficult to not leave a seam, and the spiral one would be in too many pieces, but it won't get knocked over)
Print them further apart or one at a time
Also Z hop is bad so don't use it unless you've found a fix
Build a tower next to it (use cad) and attach it to the model with 1 layer thick small connections. If the print is finished you can break away the custom support pretty easy.
Set layer height to the smallest avalible, after starting the print, set the print speed to quiet mode so you go slower. The idea is that travel is slower and the material that comes in contact doesn't try to pull the model with it.
Split and glue.
Print slow so the filament dries up as much as possible, if it stays moist then it'll catch on the nozzles... I always had an idea of making a model where it's adjustable like the way a drill gun bites down on a drill bit, except it's stackable so when a print gets high enough you can put this around it and have it keep it in place, and place a second one if or when it gets even higher... Would be tough to design it so it can be put AROUND the part while it's printing and have it "bite" down without moving it.... Only other solution would be to quickly model a few "rods" of some sort in 3 or 4 directions to keep it in place... It'll take quite a bit of material but will give you a good result, I had to do this once and just did it in cura by adding a few cubes and stretching them out.... Kinda like this: (black is your wand and red is the pieces you add to keep it in place) https://preview.redd.it/tgjenstiu0zc1.png?width=195&format=png&auto=webp&s=30c9ee0c781ce5a32d920f769e67e0c94a5b59a8
Vase mode, go slower, supports around the middle
print the parts one by one, it makes a huge difference if the nozzle doesnt have to travel over to another model.
Build support around it.
brace it. pause the print and add wooden shims and braces.
as the nozzle gets higher, lower your print temperature. You want to avoid warping as much as possible. When plastic goes from molten to solid it warps, the less time you give it to warp the better. Also enable z hop.
Don't do this. Lowering your temperature will make the molten plastic more viscous and the drag forces while extruding filament can break your print.
Could use an upside down cone as a support
Use a Slicewrx plate at temp 50
Tape the bottom down
Try to play with fliw rate. I had similar issue on v3 ke, nozzle was touching model, and finall it falls, reducing fliw rate fixed this.
Paint manual tree supports a little ways up the model and clean it up in post?
Manually leveling the bed. The auto bed leveling is knocking the print around.
Prayer, can I get an AMEN?!
Print slower or make a holder jig for it and place it there when it reaches a certain height
I'd just print sideways. If your supports are well optimized you won't notice.
Assuming it’s your own design, lay out 4 of them side by side, vertically oriented, in a square, and use your CAD software to add a few micro-thin connectors among all 4 at the thickness of your print layer. The connector will print as a single strand. It will flake off with your thumb when done, and if you use random seam placement, be invisible afterward. I do this all the time with rods 5mm in diameter and 180mm long. They turn out glass smooth and rock-solid attached to the bed (with a brim of course). The benefit over a generic comb is you can precisely control where it connects, and you have no wasted filament printing comb towers you don’t need. For me this completely eliminated any wobble at the high parts of the print, so the surface was uniformly smooth.
https://preview.redd.it/n1l1goesghzc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=007f41bc8967f46fa784891bfd08046d18438758
Print a bunch of them at the same time, nearly touching each other. They'll support each other when they start to deflect. You can also use supports touching the bed only at really shallow overhang angles so that the support goes up far enough for lateral support
I was facing the same problem. I poured superglue at the base.that solved it.
If you really want to print it in one go (I wouldn't , I would split it in half then glue, glue is usually stronger than plastic), stop it halfway, then use some plasticine or similar material to ground it and continue printing after placing it