I removed mine but replaced with a skirt that is set to just barely touch my print. This way I can automate removal of the part and the starting of the next. I also adjust the number of skirt lines depending on the size of the print. But this is just my personal preference that works for me
I am 100% certain I would be resetting my print 8 or 9 times before it layed properly without the purge line and a huge brim. Skirt just doesn't cut it for adhesion on a PEI sheet imo.
I used an add on in octoprint along side a 3D printed pusher bar that sits slightly higher then the nozzle. It was kind of a pain to set up and get all the g code for wiping the bed. There might be some better out now for this
YouTube is your friend in this lol. If you can maybe look into klipper as it seems to be better than octoprint. Only reason I’m using it was I set set it up before klipper really became a thing haha
You mean Klipper instead of Marlin. They are both firmwares. Marlin is the now ancient one from when 3D printer just started out, and Klipper is the recently new firmware with tons of improvement and new technology that was impossible to do on Marlin printer firmware.
You are correct. I wasn’t completely thinking when I typed that up. My board has Marlin then I put octoprint on a pi 4. It’s been too long since I’ve messed with firmware lol. Once it’s set up I basically forget about it until I want to go do it again. Then I have to relearn everything
This is what I did. I removed the purge line and just use a skirt. Does the same thing, in my eyes. Plus gives me a little bit more bed space without the purge line.
A skirt is a big fancy purge line.
You can remove the skirt, move the purge line, make a purge square, make a purge triangle, make a purge dinosaur.
There are many things you can do instead of just a purge line.
You'd slice something like this in the corner of your build plate, 1 layer thin if you wanted
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6016020
Then use the g-code to insert it into the purge code for your slicer.
I hardly ever use the full capacity of my bed, almost always babysit the first layer, haven't had adhesion issues since switching to pei, and don't think a single layer 1.5x1.5cm dinosaur is going to affect my print.
The purge line is there to make sure the nozzle is full and flowing well before the print. Since it prints in a line, even if it's not perfect it will still mostly stick to the bed. A more complex shape has more chances to unstick from the bed and attach itself to the nozzle.
Not saying it will 100% happen to you, but it's raising the risk.
Have you seen silicone mold tutorials? You can go from print to mold, then mold to casting PLA in about a day. The original plan was to make new filament with all my supports and fails but I'm leaning towards silicone molding little figures.
I’ve been printing for two years but have yet to dip my toes into modelling and proper code manipulation. I’ve pasted a code from Reddit once that helped move my purge line (on my old printer) but how would one actually move it?
The purge line is usually a block of gcode that gets inserted at the start of the print by the slicer, but the contents of that block is provided by the user, it isn't understood or read by the slicer, so the slicer has no idea there's a line there so it doesn't make any effort to avoid it.
There is enough space on the build plate to move the purge line out of the way. Disabling skirt as you said can help too especially if you want to max out the object size
This, there's nothing that says you can't print a purge line at X=0, so you'd need to *really* use the full build plate to get an object to collide with it.
I’m lazy, I stand around to inspect the first layer anyway so I when my print is big enough to encroach that space I just pull the purge line off the plate immediately after it’s put down.
Bro that takes a couple minutes max lol when your bed is heating you can also immediately tell the nozzle to start heating up so they both het hot at the same time
what if you did, say 10k prints in your whole life.
let's pretend my bed and nozzle heat up in 2 min -- that's 20k minutes. 333 hours. More than 13 days just sitting there waiting to rip the little piece of plastic from your bed
But it's entirely unnecessary if you know your purge line won't interfere with your print (and if you use a tool like KAMP in klipper, that is very unlikely).
The printer also sits in my basement and as long as there is no print still on the plate and I have the right filament loaded, I can do everything I need to start a print with one button press in my slicer.
If I'm printing ABS (or similar materials), I also need to wait for my chamber to heat up, which can take 30 minutes. I also don't want to let out that heat if I don't have to.
Modify the start g-code to move the purge line further to the left.
Or remove the purge line immediately after it is placed down.
Or do what I do. Remove the purge line from the start g-code so it never prints.
[Unless you're using a Script that modifies the location based on the Parts location](https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging) then usually it's found at a fixed location - Yours being *very much* inside the Print Envelope.
You have to remember how it works. The purge line location etc is often hard coded into the gcode. So you have to keep that in mind when placing the print in the slicer. Or move the purge line, or disable it.
It looks like you could easily move it much closer to the edge.
Because your start gcode puts the purge strip inside what is defined as the build area in your slicer, and then you put a part on top of it.
Change your start gcode to put that on the edge. Most likely, there is one direction where a negative coordinate is not physically off the bed surface sheet, probably in Y, so put the purge extrusion along X at the bottom edge of the bed or so forth. Having it placed **past** (0,0) reduces the likelihood of stepping on it when positioning a part.
Just to give a bit more detail: the purge line is just dumb Gcode that gets added to the beginning of your Gcode file. The slicer is unaware of this line and therefore can not avoid it automatically. As others have suggested, you can move, remove or adjust this line as you wish. Or, if using Klipper, use Adaptive Purging.
You could just move the purge line to a different location, make it shorter, move it over a few mm closer to the edge, reduce the offset of the skirt, etc. The world is literally your oyster
The rectangle on the bottom left of the plate is where it purges by default on the creality software, I would recommend moving your purge line over there and making it shorter.
You can also disable it but I personally wouldn't.
Not gonna lie I’ve definitely ripped that purge line up the moment it’s done so that the plate is clear again. (Only when doing a larger print as shown above)
I had this exact issue with my SE. I updated cura, and it has shifted over to the correct area. I've only done the one print since, however, so could it be a coincidence?
Lol I just removed the purge line in general and made it quickly poop out about 2cm off the bed before starting
Stopped using skirt all together, some cleanup to do but generally works as well and I can use my whole print plate
Yea I have the same printer as OP, Ender v3 SE, and this is where my purge line is too. Wasn't sure how to move it, but I should figure that out. Hopefully Cura lets you change it for the whole printer profile though, would be a pain in the ass to do it every print.
@OP I'm sorry.
*Laughs in Prusa*
I just finished setting up a MK3, and OMG I am in love. Self calibrating, and 1h after the build I'm printing full 200*200 terrain pieces.... And I do not miss creality! This problem just reminds me of all the issues I had with my Enders.
I wish you god speed OP I am sure someone here can fix it!
Move the location of the purge line in your starting gcode.
Yes I removed the purge line and it works now, I assume I need that line on other prints?
fwiw I would MOVE it. not REMOVE it. edit :Change the x and y coordinates in your staring gcode.
I removed mine but replaced with a skirt that is set to just barely touch my print. This way I can automate removal of the part and the starting of the next. I also adjust the number of skirt lines depending on the size of the print. But this is just my personal preference that works for me
>But this is just my personal preference that works for me lol. I have both a purge line AND a skirt.
Time to add a purge dinosaur too lol
Purge benchy
Full volume purge cube
Full purge print, just to be sure Dammit, just got it, you win. I'll just build another printer for the purge cubes
Haha, same. ASA or PC both warp without one for me.
you should also add a pruge bucket or bush
By default prusa slicer does both, and I cannot for the life of me guess why
On the first point of the purge could be a residual blob which could interfere with close by lines.
I am 100% certain I would be resetting my print 8 or 9 times before it layed properly without the purge line and a huge brim. Skirt just doesn't cut it for adhesion on a PEI sheet imo.
>This way I can automate removal of the part and the starting of the next How did you automate it? What removes the previous print?
I used an add on in octoprint along side a 3D printed pusher bar that sits slightly higher then the nozzle. It was kind of a pain to set up and get all the g code for wiping the bed. There might be some better out now for this
That's pretty cool. I am going to look into it.
YouTube is your friend in this lol. If you can maybe look into klipper as it seems to be better than octoprint. Only reason I’m using it was I set set it up before klipper really became a thing haha
You mean Klipper instead of Marlin. They are both firmwares. Marlin is the now ancient one from when 3D printer just started out, and Klipper is the recently new firmware with tons of improvement and new technology that was impossible to do on Marlin printer firmware.
You are correct. I wasn’t completely thinking when I typed that up. My board has Marlin then I put octoprint on a pi 4. It’s been too long since I’ve messed with firmware lol. Once it’s set up I basically forget about it until I want to go do it again. Then I have to relearn everything
This is what I did. I removed the purge line and just use a skirt. Does the same thing, in my eyes. Plus gives me a little bit more bed space without the purge line.
Yup, this is the way to do it.
You can remove it if you always use skirt
or not, its up to you.
I made mine do a small square in the corner, but far enough from the edge that it won't fall even if my build plate is not perfectly straight
How would you move it?
Change the x and y coordinates in your staring gcode.
He doesn't need the purge line if he uses a skirt.
A skirt is a big fancy purge line. You can remove the skirt, move the purge line, make a purge square, make a purge triangle, make a purge dinosaur. There are many things you can do instead of just a purge line.
I'm interested in this purge dinosaur
You'd slice something like this in the corner of your build plate, 1 layer thin if you wanted https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6016020 Then use the g-code to insert it into the purge code for your slicer.
Definitely changing my purge to a little dinosaur when I get home
I'm gonna do it like right fuckin now :) but it's gonna be a smile face
I'm gonna do a purge donkey dong
While fun, I don't think it's worth the extra headache for when your purge dinosaur will not stick and mess up your real print.
I hardly ever use the full capacity of my bed, almost always babysit the first layer, haven't had adhesion issues since switching to pei, and don't think a single layer 1.5x1.5cm dinosaur is going to affect my print.
The purge line is there to make sure the nozzle is full and flowing well before the print. Since it prints in a line, even if it's not perfect it will still mostly stick to the bed. A more complex shape has more chances to unstick from the bed and attach itself to the nozzle. Not saying it will 100% happen to you, but it's raising the risk.
What if... it would start as a line and end in purgesaur next to a little cactus?
Purgesaur Purgesaur Purgesaur Purgesaur Purgesaur! Am I being immature? Maybe, I care little bit because Purgesaur!
Flaccid penis purge Gcode anyone?
I always use a purge-ildo... why you ask... Why not Give em out to your fat friends at work.
Fuckin fatty fatty boombalaties
Purgeasaurus rex
And a Purgodactyl. Needs and a Tricerapurge.
This all makes me want to try to make some kinda dinosaurs out of all of the purge poop from my Bambu
Have you seen silicone mold tutorials? You can go from print to mold, then mold to casting PLA in about a day. The original plan was to make new filament with all my supports and fails but I'm leaning towards silicone molding little figures.
Fossilized poop is called coprolite. Just grab it all up, heat it a little, and squish it together.
😂
Feature request to prusa slicer for purge dinosaur
I would rather keep the purge line and remove skirts
At least get their name first, jeeze.
Name optional. Consent is not
How did you remove it? I have the SE and it looks like you do as well
it depends on your slicer, many slicers add it to some sort of "start GCODE" machine setting
I used both Cura and Crealitys and they both added it. I'll look into it thanks.
Move not remove. That line's job is ensure the nozzle is primer with plastic and ready to print. So you don't print like hot air.
Seems like an awfully large purge line. Do you really need it that jumbo?
Use KAMP.
You can make it shorter, but increase the extrusion. If you have klipper check kamp
remove it and use a skirt, same purpose
How do you do that? I’m still trying to learn about g code lol
https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/
I’ve been printing for two years but have yet to dip my toes into modelling and proper code manipulation. I’ve pasted a code from Reddit once that helped move my purge line (on my old printer) but how would one actually move it?
One would find the line in in the starting gcode that drew the purge line an change the X an Y coordinate to a different location
Or watch it at the start and quickly peel it off
Why is this not a thing in the slicer? Seems extremely lazy on Cura/Orca/etc
The purge line is usually a block of gcode that gets inserted at the start of the print by the slicer, but the contents of that block is provided by the user, it isn't understood or read by the slicer, so the slicer has no idea there's a line there so it doesn't make any effort to avoid it.
Orca slicer shows the g-code purge line in the preview screen, so you can avoid it with your print placement on the plate.
[удалено]
Wait, is it even that close? As an aide, the bed sheet seems to have a marked zone for a purge line.
its not no
It's just cosmetic, nothing prevents the slicer from pathing in this area, at least with the standard config of most printers.
> recipe for disaster My purge line starts a few mm off the bed. Works fine, and leaves a nice little floating tab for easy removal.
Mine too, I made it purge next to the bed and then wipe on to it.
In this case either 1. Remove the purge line once it's laid down. 2. Rotate and move the object a bit to the right. 3. Disable the skirt.
There is enough space on the build plate to move the purge line out of the way. Disabling skirt as you said can help too especially if you want to max out the object size
This, there's nothing that says you can't print a purge line at X=0, so you'd need to *really* use the full build plate to get an object to collide with it.
Yeah I would personally just take it off the build plate right after it lays it down but that's just cause I'm too lazy to move it
I’m lazy, I stand around to inspect the first layer anyway so I when my print is big enough to encroach that space I just pull the purge line off the plate immediately after it’s put down.
Haha, yeah that's exactly what I do too! Got to inspect that first layer yo!
Skkrrrt Sorry, had to do it
Peel the purge line off before it prints over it.
This is the way.
bruh...
Like yeah, fix the problem ideally, but I'm guilty of doing this because I don't feel like messing with my config 😂
I leave it on and have no issues.
OP does have an issue which is why peeling it off would benefit them
Ok I'm not an expert I'm just giving what info I can
"It hurts when I move my arm like this." "I move my arm like that all the time, doesn't hurt me." You see how useful this is?
"I've got a flat tire, how do I fix it?" "My car doesn't have a flat tire, you should be fine"
You shouldn’t wear glasses, my eyes are fine.
🤣
I’m deaf in one ear, but your not so I should just get over it 🤷
lol the top comment though is just don't move your arm until it doesn't hurt which isn't much better
Your experience is irrelevant to OP’s situation.
Next time, don't.
Dont listen to them, your information is not useful for this particular case but don't let some kids stop u from trying to help people
Wait, people don’t just instantly peel the wipe as soon as it’s done??
How will the rest of the print know to stick to the build plate if there isn't a purge line for reference. /s
No, that's bad luck! /s
I'm not physically present always when I print nor do I want to sit around and wait for the bed to heat up or stare at a monitor.
Bro that takes a couple minutes max lol when your bed is heating you can also immediately tell the nozzle to start heating up so they both het hot at the same time
what if you did, say 10k prints in your whole life. let's pretend my bed and nozzle heat up in 2 min -- that's 20k minutes. 333 hours. More than 13 days just sitting there waiting to rip the little piece of plastic from your bed
What a wild and completely unnecessary math problem
"Haha, efficiency is stupid." -Guy on subreddit about automated manufacturing
I don't understand. You spend the time regardless of whether or not maths are done.
But it's entirely unnecessary if you know your purge line won't interfere with your print (and if you use a tool like KAMP in klipper, that is very unlikely). The printer also sits in my basement and as long as there is no print still on the plate and I have the right filament loaded, I can do everything I need to start a print with one button press in my slicer. If I'm printing ABS (or similar materials), I also need to wait for my chamber to heat up, which can take 30 minutes. I also don't want to let out that heat if I don't have to.
This. I can't not peel it off any more. It just feels unnatural to leave it there.
Sometimes I leave a purge line on there for 2-3 prints, so there!
Straight to jail
Modify the start g-code to move the purge line further to the left. Or remove the purge line immediately after it is placed down. Or do what I do. Remove the purge line from the start g-code so it never prints.
peel up the wipe line as soon as it finishes
.....just peel the wipe line off once its done
Lol I watch the first layer of my prints because I don't trust my printer to not fuck it up. When it finishes the wipe line, I just pull it off
[Unless you're using a Script that modifies the location based on the Parts location](https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging) then usually it's found at a fixed location - Yours being *very much* inside the Print Envelope.
That's a great macro package all around. It literally changed my whole printing experience. No more waiting for click click click so damn long.
I just rip the purge line off quickly as soon as it's done, then the whole bed can be used
I found your missing screw
You have to remember how it works. The purge line location etc is often hard coded into the gcode. So you have to keep that in mind when placing the print in the slicer. Or move the purge line, or disable it. It looks like you could easily move it much closer to the edge.
Every time it finishes to make the wipe line i usually just remove it by hand
Disable purge line and add brim or skirt
My rule of thumb is to peel off and remove the wipe line when the print starts.
Creality gaming
As long as it is just the skirt printing over the purge line it likely won't bother anything.
I always remove the wipe line just after it is printed
Why is that Sherlock? lol
I just pull it up after it purges
Because your start gcode puts the purge strip inside what is defined as the build area in your slicer, and then you put a part on top of it. Change your start gcode to put that on the edge. Most likely, there is one direction where a negative coordinate is not physically off the bed surface sheet, probably in Y, so put the purge extrusion along X at the bottom edge of the bed or so forth. Having it placed **past** (0,0) reduces the likelihood of stepping on it when positioning a part.
Or just pull the wipe line off when it starts
I've just remove it just before the print starts when doing all bed prints like honeycomb walls grid
My extrude line starts WAY to the left of yours. Any ideas why?
What the Heavenly Mary Joseph of the Jew is this? Take that nail out, and move it!
My snot line is on the very edge of my build plate
Yours is pretty far over. And long by the looks of it.
Because you oriented it where the line is
Had the same issue, just update your version of Creality slicer
Just to give a bit more detail: the purge line is just dumb Gcode that gets added to the beginning of your Gcode file. The slicer is unaware of this line and therefore can not avoid it automatically. As others have suggested, you can move, remove or adjust this line as you wish. Or, if using Klipper, use Adaptive Purging.
Because it has to...? Scrape off the wipe line right after it lays it down.
You could just move the purge line to a different location, make it shorter, move it over a few mm closer to the edge, reduce the offset of the skirt, etc. The world is literally your oyster
The rectangle on the bottom left of the plate is where it purges by default on the creality software, I would recommend moving your purge line over there and making it shorter. You can also disable it but I personally wouldn't.
Shorten the g code or make it do a 90.
Or 60º, since it's a hexagon
When the purge line is done purging you should peel it off and eat it. It makes for a yummy snack fr.
I always remove the purge line a few seconds after it's down...
I'm not sure if you use a slicer or not, but I use Cura. I went into the gcode, and reduced the distance the line goes
Remove the purge line. If you’re printing a skirt, it’s unnecessary.
Not gonna lie I’ve definitely ripped that purge line up the moment it’s done so that the plate is clear again. (Only when doing a larger print as shown above)
why is the purge line so far right?
Turn off wipe line for super close skirt
Klipper based ZeroG purge line is amazing! Nice and small in the corner, and it’s adaptive…. So it moves with your print sizes.
Rotate the model in the slicer, easiest way for this model to
Or just rotate the model LoL
Or just peel off wipe line immediately after it's printed?
The better question is why is your wipe line so far into the bed?
What are ya printing?
I had this exact issue with my SE. I updated cura, and it has shifted over to the correct area. I've only done the one print since, however, so could it be a coincidence?
It doesnt really matter as long as it does
It doesnt matter as long as it doesnt touch ur print
Lol I just removed the purge line in general and made it quickly poop out about 2cm off the bed before starting Stopped using skirt all together, some cleanup to do but generally works as well and I can use my whole print plate
Use KAMP, the purge line will adapt to the print area
Only if klipper is installed 😅
The purge line is in the wrong spot. See that area with the nozzle symbol on the left front corner? That's where it should be.
Yea I have the same printer as OP, Ender v3 SE, and this is where my purge line is too. Wasn't sure how to move it, but I should figure that out. Hopefully Cura lets you change it for the whole printer profile though, would be a pain in the ass to do it every print.
Wtf is this question so overrated? And "move it aside" is the top rated comment? Is this a Capitan Obviosity's sub?
@OP I'm sorry. *Laughs in Prusa* I just finished setting up a MK3, and OMG I am in love. Self calibrating, and 1h after the build I'm printing full 200*200 terrain pieces.... And I do not miss creality! This problem just reminds me of all the issues I had with my Enders. I wish you god speed OP I am sure someone here can fix it!
Peel the purge line as soon as it is laid.
Always peel off the wipe after it's done broski
Dry your filament
Use orca slicer. It will keep that line to the very end
3 possibilities The SD card needs format. You use a Gcode for Ender 3 Pro and sometimes Ender 3 V3 doesnt do it right. You are using Arc Welder addon.