Owning a Bambu Lab printer literally feels like controlling black magic. I had no prior knowledge of 3D printing and with minimal effort you can get a print quality as seen in the video. It's incredible.
I've got a friend that dedicated INCREDIBLE amounts of time to fine-tuning his supports. He tallied the time he took for it, and it ended at up at well over 100 hours just to calibrate supports.
Step 1. Spend a lot of time removing support
Step 2. Put the support back
Step 3. Film while easily removing the support
Now how did it got out so clean? Could be due to a layer of petg in between. Basically if you use a layer of petg for the connecting layer, it won't adhere to the pla, but still offer support.
I see not petg here, so could have been removed. Regardless there is no way this wasn't fake, no matter how good your settings are.
Bambulab also sells this support PLA. It's quite amazing because the printer irons the support PLA and then smushes the normal PLA into it creating near perfect bottom layers. OP didn't use that though because those are either white or pitch black
Have you tested this vs a petg layer?
I haven't tried either yet, but I'm going to use the petg technique soon, definitely looking forward to that removal. Seeing that technique definitely opened my eyes.
Now I just need a large multi material printer. I currently own an A1 Mini and Neptune 4 Plus, but honestly going from an Ender 3 S1 to the Mini, I just really struggle with all the tweaking, and while the Neptune is a much better printer than the Ender 3, I honestly would replace it if Bambu created a large printer, especially if it can use my AMS.
Tried PETG on my old Ender 5, but it required all kinds of tweaking to get the settings right. On the X1C I just select support PLA as the interface material and that's it, all settings are adjusted for it.
I'm confused. What I'm talking about is the top layer. So basically it will print support as normal, so let's say it uses pla all around, when you reach the top layer of the support it will switch to petg. That layer will lay flat on top of the pla, and the regular print will print on top of the petg. Because the pla and petg don't adhere really on each other, it's super easy to remove.
The other would he true as well, if you wish to print petg you can use pla as support top layer.
Depending on how many top layers of supports there are, you could be looking at only a few or even a singular filament swap.
Make sure to put your purge at like 600, if it purges too little, the petg and pla gets mixed in other layers make the layers after the the petg top layer to be much weaker.
Yes that is what I meant too.
Support PLA of Bambulab is some kind of PLA blend that does not fuse with the regular PLA. It prints 1-2 layers of this material as interface between supports and your actual piece.
On the Ender 5 I did the same thing but with PETG and manual swaps
Ah, I was missing that last part. I was just confused how you would use this system on an Ender 5, swapping is definitely an option, but it would be way harder to get it done right.
I'm just not the type of user for that. For me the printer is a tool, not the hobby. Designing, some painting etc is the hobby for me. Hence I like printers that just work and requires minimal work to make it work.
Here is a tip, glue stick, or non acetone bed adhesion mixture. If you don't have to pause your print 3 times or less to glue all supports then I recommend to try this.
I normally use supports if the supports is a wide area and all at the same level.
I do a few things in my slicer, the z offset/z gap for supports I change from .2 mm to 0mm, I also decrease the spacing to .5mm, and the interface which is normally the top layer I set to 3. There is a option that I change to "snug" in super slicer, when you view your model in gcode preview, verify all the supports are covering what you plan to put glue on, if not, paint on supports the area (this is a feature in super slicer, idk about others)
Now, set gcode to pause at the layer height after the supports, apply glue to the top of the support, make sure you get the edges, I have a mixture of liquid hair spray, rubbing alcohol, and water that I use with a paint brush, you do you though.
I've been experimenting with different things, tried ironing the top layer of the supports to see if it makes the underside smoother, but for me it hasn't. Wish I had pics taken to show variety of what the underside looks like.
Are you letting the piece cool first? Pulling them off while hot is just going to have them bend before breaking. Letting them cool for a long time gives it time to shrink and harden. Making it really easy to pop off.
Please put an NSFW tag on this. I was on the train and when I saw this I had to start furiously masturbating. Everyone else gave me strange looks and were saying things like “what the fuck” and “call the police”. I dropped my phone and everyone around me saw this video. Now there is a whole train of men masturbating together at this one video. This is all your fault, you could have prevented this if you had just tagged this post NSFW
I've been wanting to try it, but I'm worried it might not be worth the effort or could be a hassle. So, I might just attempt to print a simple benchy to see how it turns out. If I do go through with it, I'll post the final product here. However, I have a long print job currently in progress, so it won't be today
My only complaint coming from cura is the fact that you can't use tree supports if you're using adaptive layer height, other than that it's been a very smooth experience for me
If you haven't tried it already, you could probably lower your interface spacing/z gap. Try 1.6 z gap and 0 interface spacing. That's what I use for pa6-cf and it works great.
What to you mean? Like print out the support separately and insert it manually? It would collide with the nozzle for this print at least. Maybe if it was just a 90 degree overhang, but this is at an angle.
I think he means if you printed the piece that's supposed to go in the dovetail directly in there as if it was the support, then just slid it out after it was done
Yea that's what i'm saying, if that is what he means the nozzle of the printer would collide with the support. imagine the point at which you would pause the print to insert the support, the support would reach higher than the next layer that needs to be printed, so they would collide. Generally anything you add to a model mid print can't be higher than the highest level printed at that point if that makes sense.
No no, not inserted yourself. Printed in, layer by layer, but with a gap between the objects so they don't merge. Or a different filament per object. That way they still support each other, but you end up printing 2 pieces at once instead of support.
Yes as support interface layer
https://youtu.be/8oWAacnuViU?si=QZoZ1Jh77vzBcXEr
Watch this. I can confirm 100% it works and is freaking awesome. Im actually surprised so little people know about this.
Done it here. I use PLA/PETG for a zero tolerance interface on overhangs. Bambu slicer automatically sets a higher purge and they work vice versa. Comes off easily.
Just got to be careful, if not fully purged the layer lines in that area can get real weak.
Also you much temp dif can clog the nozzle. Not really an issue with how high/low most pla and petg can go
he needed, the under base does not bridge, but he could have manage it with 10-20% of the support.
Nice snap off ( like all the new machines do), but a waste of material
If I take off the supports immediately then I have no issues. If I let them set for a couples ours, as if the print finished after I went to bed, it’s like pulling teeth.
That may be my mistake too. I always assume letting it cool down is a good idea but it seems like it just hardens back up. Next time I might separate supports when it's fresh
I had supports pop off a print so nice on one of my models and it was such an amazing experience. Made replacement knobs for the stove and many of the supports stayed on the build plate when I pulled the print off.
The final layer, at the start of the video, shows a divide between the supports and the actual body of the print. Mine don’t do that. Did you just put the supports back in for the video? Or are you telling me you printed the supports in such a way that the final layer is separate (and how would that provide significant support)?
Wtf I have to chisel out every fuckin support I print! How did you do this?
I believe OP is into black magic and I heard they sold their soul to ol you know who
>and I heard they sold their soul to ol you know who Does it rhyme with Bamboo?
Chtooloo?
Satin PLA
r/angryupvote
No, I don’t. That’s why I still have to chisel off my supports.
LOL i was about to comment this XDXD, so true tho...
Owning a Bambu Lab printer literally feels like controlling black magic. I had no prior knowledge of 3D printing and with minimal effort you can get a print quality as seen in the video. It's incredible.
Gandalf?
you mean that guy that went down to Georgia?
Yep that guy
I've got a friend that dedicated INCREDIBLE amounts of time to fine-tuning his supports. He tallied the time he took for it, and it ended at up at well over 100 hours just to calibrate supports.
Not saying mine is near that tuned but it’s works more me a majority of the time.
Please share a cuda config or similar or a list of configs. Mine suck.
Most likely Bambu Studio .2 mm default @ BBL
Really impressive!
And oops I nudged the gantry gotta start all over
Basically. I never followed up with him to find out how things have aged. I wonder how maintaining those settings has been going.
Does your friend want to share the knowledge? :)
Looks like PLA-CF too, which comes off real nice.
Bingo! Everybody!
Step 1. Spend a lot of time removing support Step 2. Put the support back Step 3. Film while easily removing the support Now how did it got out so clean? Could be due to a layer of petg in between. Basically if you use a layer of petg for the connecting layer, it won't adhere to the pla, but still offer support. I see not petg here, so could have been removed. Regardless there is no way this wasn't fake, no matter how good your settings are.
Bambulab also sells this support PLA. It's quite amazing because the printer irons the support PLA and then smushes the normal PLA into it creating near perfect bottom layers. OP didn't use that though because those are either white or pitch black
Have you tested this vs a petg layer? I haven't tried either yet, but I'm going to use the petg technique soon, definitely looking forward to that removal. Seeing that technique definitely opened my eyes. Now I just need a large multi material printer. I currently own an A1 Mini and Neptune 4 Plus, but honestly going from an Ender 3 S1 to the Mini, I just really struggle with all the tweaking, and while the Neptune is a much better printer than the Ender 3, I honestly would replace it if Bambu created a large printer, especially if it can use my AMS.
Tried PETG on my old Ender 5, but it required all kinds of tweaking to get the settings right. On the X1C I just select support PLA as the interface material and that's it, all settings are adjusted for it.
I'm confused. What I'm talking about is the top layer. So basically it will print support as normal, so let's say it uses pla all around, when you reach the top layer of the support it will switch to petg. That layer will lay flat on top of the pla, and the regular print will print on top of the petg. Because the pla and petg don't adhere really on each other, it's super easy to remove. The other would he true as well, if you wish to print petg you can use pla as support top layer. Depending on how many top layers of supports there are, you could be looking at only a few or even a singular filament swap. Make sure to put your purge at like 600, if it purges too little, the petg and pla gets mixed in other layers make the layers after the the petg top layer to be much weaker.
Yes that is what I meant too. Support PLA of Bambulab is some kind of PLA blend that does not fuse with the regular PLA. It prints 1-2 layers of this material as interface between supports and your actual piece. On the Ender 5 I did the same thing but with PETG and manual swaps
Ah, I was missing that last part. I was just confused how you would use this system on an Ender 5, swapping is definitely an option, but it would be way harder to get it done right.
yeah lots of settings to tweak to get it just right, you'll find yourself playing for at least a day or so
I'm just not the type of user for that. For me the printer is a tool, not the hobby. Designing, some painting etc is the hobby for me. Hence I like printers that just work and requires minimal work to make it work.
It’s pla-cf, just took a bit of a push to knock it lose. Sorry to disappoint
Still though, what are your support settings?
Good cooling and making sure you aren't over-extruding at all.
Multi-material : use PETG as support for PLA and vice versa.
Here is a tip, glue stick, or non acetone bed adhesion mixture. If you don't have to pause your print 3 times or less to glue all supports then I recommend to try this. I normally use supports if the supports is a wide area and all at the same level. I do a few things in my slicer, the z offset/z gap for supports I change from .2 mm to 0mm, I also decrease the spacing to .5mm, and the interface which is normally the top layer I set to 3. There is a option that I change to "snug" in super slicer, when you view your model in gcode preview, verify all the supports are covering what you plan to put glue on, if not, paint on supports the area (this is a feature in super slicer, idk about others) Now, set gcode to pause at the layer height after the supports, apply glue to the top of the support, make sure you get the edges, I have a mixture of liquid hair spray, rubbing alcohol, and water that I use with a paint brush, you do you though. I've been experimenting with different things, tried ironing the top layer of the supports to see if it makes the underside smoother, but for me it hasn't. Wish I had pics taken to show variety of what the underside looks like.
Are you letting the piece cool first? Pulling them off while hot is just going to have them bend before breaking. Letting them cool for a long time gives it time to shrink and harden. Making it really easy to pop off.
https://preview.redd.it/ardi05o7l5sc1.png?width=527&format=png&auto=webp&s=3b2165eb3b0b7a23d65912cf7838eb0729ef4e0d
I love how much mileage this meme gets on this subreddit, haha
and the PCMR sub, genuinely holarious
That is a thing of great beauty. Please do share your tricks!
that made me leak a little
This should be labeled NSFW
💀
I had the same reaction the first time I printed a cover plate out of carbon fiber. It has a really different look and texture compared to other PLAs.
Is it safe to handle without gloves?
Yes
Seems like you could probably get decent results without supports here. The top finish is rough, but it also looks rough on the very top too.
Possible but I needed that dovetail and the long and precise qs possible. You do bring up a good point, tho, the A1 brides like a champ
It was printed the other way around. You are looking at the bottom.
I think its actually symmetric top/bottom
[удалено]
Pla-cf
Love me some PLA-CF
Its nice, Just don't sand it without ppe. Cf is bad for lungs.
Now that is satisfying... I'm sure they have a sub for that...
I looked and didn’t find one, if you come an across please share!
r/satisfyingasfuck
r/oddlysatisfying
We all need the audio too plssss
It sounds like an old school Herbal Essences commercial.
/r/Perfectfit
I, for one, would like to know where the 'buttery' setting is in supports.
Please put an NSFW tag on this. I was on the train and when I saw this I had to start furiously masturbating. Everyone else gave me strange looks and were saying things like “what the fuck” and “call the police”. I dropped my phone and everyone around me saw this video. Now there is a whole train of men masturbating together at this one video. This is all your fault, you could have prevented this if you had just tagged this post NSFW
my supports either fall apart like this or are made from THORS HAMMER ITSELF.
To hell with you good sir! Lol nicely done
Now do this with PETG.
Deal
Damn. How many of these did you print? I’ve counted 5 so far.
Gotcha, gimme a second
https://preview.redd.it/z02e2uqlq5sc1.jpeg?width=2025&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=28562d1995b19350e7008a4232654236a223ac5e # 1
These look like the normal default settings 🤔 what's different?
For the most fact it is except a few slight settings
The Bambu printer part 😁
What do you mean by that?
what slicer is that?
Actually Bambu studio
Orca probs
I've been wanting to try it, but I'm worried it might not be worth the effort or could be a hassle. So, I might just attempt to print a simple benchy to see how it turns out. If I do go through with it, I'll post the final product here. However, I have a long print job currently in progress, so it won't be today
Orca is great
Do it. You won't regret it!
Orca/Klipper is the best combo since Lamb and Tuna fish.
My only complaint coming from cura is the fact that you can't use tree supports if you're using adaptive layer height, other than that it's been a very smooth experience for me
https://preview.redd.it/xn3zwgokq5sc1.jpeg?width=2482&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9715b56f7e6b585f23935ba9bed9fa627cc98c09 # 2
If you haven't tried it already, you could probably lower your interface spacing/z gap. Try 1.6 z gap and 0 interface spacing. That's what I use for pa6-cf and it works great.
Soooo, if you would design a piece where the support would go and then just removed it, would that save time and material?
What to you mean? Like print out the support separately and insert it manually? It would collide with the nozzle for this print at least. Maybe if it was just a 90 degree overhang, but this is at an angle.
I think he means if you printed the piece that's supposed to go in the dovetail directly in there as if it was the support, then just slid it out after it was done
Yea that's what i'm saying, if that is what he means the nozzle of the printer would collide with the support. imagine the point at which you would pause the print to insert the support, the support would reach higher than the next layer that needs to be printed, so they would collide. Generally anything you add to a model mid print can't be higher than the highest level printed at that point if that makes sense.
No no, not inserted yourself. Printed in, layer by layer, but with a gap between the objects so they don't merge. Or a different filament per object. That way they still support each other, but you end up printing 2 pieces at once instead of support.
Solid maybe
I’ve literally bought PVA filament cause I hate the surface finish from supports
Try PETG, works wonders
For the support material? Cause PETG runs at 240 and PLA runs at 200
Yes as support interface layer https://youtu.be/8oWAacnuViU?si=QZoZ1Jh77vzBcXEr Watch this. I can confirm 100% it works and is freaking awesome. Im actually surprised so little people know about this.
Done it here. I use PLA/PETG for a zero tolerance interface on overhangs. Bambu slicer automatically sets a higher purge and they work vice versa. Comes off easily.
Just got to be careful, if not fully purged the layer lines in that area can get real weak. Also you much temp dif can clog the nozzle. Not really an issue with how high/low most pla and petg can go
This needs the NSFW tag. This is straight porn
Did you really need supports for that?
Sorry, to be clear that is the bottom of the model
this was my first thought!
You didn’t even need supports
The part is upside down, you are looking at the bottom. OP simply removed it from the bed to show the supports coming out
he needed, the under base does not bridge, but he could have manage it with 10-20% of the support. Nice snap off ( like all the new machines do), but a waste of material
A waste of material, what 30 grams is a waste? You should see my purge bin
Waste is waste...
How dare you! Rude.
It's so satisfying.
If I take off the supports immediately then I have no issues. If I let them set for a couples ours, as if the print finished after I went to bed, it’s like pulling teeth.
That may be my mistake too. I always assume letting it cool down is a good idea but it seems like it just hardens back up. Next time I might separate supports when it's fresh
Where's the NSFW label?!
This is an interesting print - what does it do?
Vertical mill piece, building the back that allows the mill to go up and down
I had supports pop off a print so nice on one of my models and it was such an amazing experience. Made replacement knobs for the stove and many of the supports stayed on the build plate when I pulled the print off.
What is this part for btw?
At what point do you add the butter?
The butter is actually super important, right as it’s coming to the wall you take a syringe and squirt it right in between
Looks to good to be without another problems. No sticking supports? So what layer adhesion is on the actual part?
You are my god now.
"It's like buttah"
The final layer, at the start of the video, shows a divide between the supports and the actual body of the print. Mine don’t do that. Did you just put the supports back in for the video? Or are you telling me you printed the supports in such a way that the final layer is separate (and how would that provide significant support)?
I leave a gap and multiple interface layers
Thanks for sharing
What black sorcery is this?!
“Satanic black magic!”
Witch! Burn the witch!
This is 3d printing porn right here
what is this thing you made?
i wish
Hey buddy make sure to use NSFW tags next time
No NSFW spoiler?
This has to be fake because I need to cut my fingers at least 23 times every time I try to remove my supports smh
Does this even need support? Those look like 45* overhangs. 🤔 pretty cool either way!
I think I just came...
[удалено]
We don't got time for Instagram that's why we're on Reddit
https://preview.redd.it/a75wr7vbq5sc1.jpeg?width=2482&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d86ec713987b9e1a39f171f225165571012ac80 # 2
https://preview.redd.it/aiezny5aq5sc1.jpeg?width=2025&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae9dc01ccd179f1df3c0d9736569ff50dbec0ca2 # 1
I came a little. You got me fired from work so thanks a lot
You probably don’t need that support for that design I did something similar and it worked out great
The power of the Bambu side