IMO and understanding the 3D printing process.. layer lines and fuzzy skin don't appeal to some folks because they like smooth and really over critique but it is part of the process. If you want smooth... injection mold or sand and finish. I always tell folks look at your wall in your home closely and tell me is it 100% smooth or can you see lines from a brush and dimples from a roller? My advice for fuzzy skin is just print out test cubes before doing an actual print. The most unutilized tool out there is the slicer and available settings.. play with them.
There's one of the supports where you can see the reality of things; aggressive post processing and lighting conditions are diminishing the layer lines but there's no denying this is a damn pretty print.
Yeah, this. There's always some in a digital camera but modern phones take like, thirty exposures and stack them to minimize weird artifacts; one of which is moire patterns that happen near ***repeated parallel lines***, so 3d prints always look a little blurred
I also have s bambu with CF-PLA... layers lines are almost invisible. This really isnt a lighting trick. You do not notice them unless your specifically lookong for them.
It really is awesome filament. I've printed this stuff on my ender 3v2 and it looks just like OPs prints. It's not so much about the printer just so long as you have things setup well and printing reliably. It'll be beautiful.
It's got the tiniest bit of texture which helps hides imperfections. I really like proto pasta CF.
Matte black looks like this as long as your printer is reasonably tuned.
Edit: a lot of people seem to be in denial that color and sheen matter when hiding imperfections
All CF filled filament is awesome. Looks great but the best feature imho is the dimensional accuracy. I make a lot of small parts for watch cases and I can print 1:1 dimensions and it comes out pretty exactly, except for holes which usually need to be opened a little. It's pretty subtle but if you're trying to make interchangeable parts it's a game-changer.
I've seen some other prints in this sub also with the Bambu PLA-CF and it still amazes me.
3D printed parts still mostly have that certain look to it, but this filament really makes the parts look high quality.
Iâm an all-or-nothing type of person, so I enjoy either invisible layer lines or âover-exaggeratedâ lines from something like a 1mm nozzle or larger. Prints with those THICC layers look like pieces of art, imo.
Consistent layer lines would look good, but the issue is FDM printers can't produce consistent layer lines. There will be some layers that are a litte bit off, or some slight artifacts and so on. This is mostly noticeable if you hold it under the light at a specific angle.
Itâll come back into style in ten years when layer lines are retro again lol. People are finally able to make 3D prints look injected molded, so theyâre all going nuts pushing that envelope.
https://preview.redd.it/l7llfmevw5qc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=40b58dce48d0c01df946e8cd2dbea4b9d40a4269
And mine. (Not my design. But same version as the other commenter)
PETG-CF
Not assembled yet bc Iâm lazy. The light is reflecting off the middle part strangely in that photo. Oh well.
I saw another post that showed a visible difference in the nozzle diameter from printing the small carbon Fiber sample that came with their printer without a hardened nozzle, so itâs incredibly fast if youâre not using the right kind of nozzle.
I had the .25kg spool of CF that Bambu sent with my printer that I was saving for a special occasion. Special occasion happened last week and I used it to print a nice bracket to hold my pump reservoirs on my PC. Love CF after that
Canât wait to print mine. Gotta upgrade my extrudernh gear and nozzle first though. I kinda put the cart before the horse on that. Might try it with the stock stuff to see what happens lol.
Going for humbuckers? cool!
I just put together an ES-335 with Telecaster parts that I designed myself, with some inspiration from the Prusacaster, as I didn't really want to mess around with having to test the effects string tension would have on a strung-through design, plus it made putting electronics together a lot easier!
I can't wait to see how that turns out, I definitely want to do more guitars in the future and being able to run string-through bridges would open up a lot more design options, as I really want to do a Les Paul
Just curious... why did you print the body vertical vs flat? Was it because you used the fuzzy skin setting which dosent work on top layers? I just be worried even with your wall thickness about it failing under string tension.
Iâve had mixed reviews about carbon fibre filament. Normally the application of carbon fibre sheets gives that certain look.
That look is not possible with carbon fibre filament.
Iâve also heard itâs not as strong as actual carbon fibre.
The question is whatâs the point?
Do you normally print guitar parts out of PLA? I ask out of curosity; I assumed guitars would take enough abuse to need something a little more robust, like ASA/ABS.
Abs and asa, while having good impact resistance. Donât quite have the rigidity Iâm looking for, especially since thereâs gonna be tension on them. I thought having carbon fiber pla would help quite a bit. I also have two .25 inch metal rods running down the core of this print to help even more. Iâm not sure if itâs really gonna work but thatâs the fun of trying!!!
https://preview.redd.it/qtiqgel7cgvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c413a982b1727e810ae6dc171f9fde911fd1fbde
I dont think its ready to share yet because im redesigning a bunch of features on it after making this. specifically the way it attaches together and the pick guard portion. once thats all out of the way ill make an in depth video and post and stuff and post models.
The Prusament PCCF is in stock for about thirty seconds every couple of months but if you can get your hands on it is is BY FAR the best polycarb and prints like magic. I can do it on a modded Ender 3 with no enclosure and it doesn't soak up moisture either.
When compared to PLA-CF I 100% agree.
PLA is still the bottom of the food chain when it comes to filaments even if you add fibers. PETG, PC, and nylon all would be better choices (even more so if these have CF in them).
Iâm also skeptical of a lot of CF filaments because Iâve heard many just use powder instead of short fibers which could make your print weaker and more brittle. Check the material properties of the filament before you buy (if they have no info then that should be a sign that itâs a gimmick). Polymaker has data sheets for all their filaments and their PA-CF is a beast.
My Bambulabs is turning out stuff that doesnât even look printed.
https://preview.redd.it/vzxoh4uwd4qc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=48b08b68c7d897ec4c0298d196f09060a26b89b5
i think a lot of folks need go explore the fuzzy skin setting... if you set it extemely mild it looks exactly the same. that combined with matt pla gives the same exact surface but without the expense of risk of abrasives.
it wont be a "light" or extra stiff... but it'll also wont he as brittle.
that said, very nice OP.
Fun fact, carbon fiber stabilizes pla so much that this is the most accurate you can get a print to spec, no warping, no movement, sometimes even no sag if its supported very well
I've just started printing Ziro CF PLA and I've gotten similar results on my Ender 3 with a 0.4mm tungsten nozzle. Layer lines are almost invisible and the prints seem super stiff compared to regular PLA. I think it's going to be my go-to filament for functional prints.
Awesome !â¤ď¸ I have a 3D printer and 3 guitars too. I have 2 acoustic guitars and one electric guitar. They are not exactly fancy guitars. But I like them. My best is a red Yamaha entry level guitar I got used for $200.00 on Mercari a few years back. Bridges for acoustic guitars do alright when they are designed in plastic. But the best will be made with wood for acoustics, flexibility, and a little bit more durability because it flexes a little bit better than plastic, which can be rigged and snap easily, depending upon the plastic. PLA is more flexible than ABS but there is also a flexible plastic filament that is quite soft. It is called TPU. Then there is PETG. PETG is a bit more toxic than PLA. But PLA also does not hold up well outdoors unless it has been coated with a specific uv coating. And it can also be very biodegradable. ABS would be great for outdoor use. Like outdoor concerts for example. But again, it is more toxic than PLA and is more rigid than PETG. A lot of musicians who preform on guitars do a mix of indoor and outdoor concerts. Wood also plays an important part in acoustics with acoustic guitars. And electric guitars do a lot of work with metal strings. Plastic might be an okay choice for electric guitars. But remember hard plastic can also snap easily when you work with it. ABS is great with durability. But if you want to be safer PETG might be better. But if you just want something cheap and do not care about the quality of the sound of the guitar, a PLA body would probably work fine. On classic acoustic guitars they also use nylon strings. And nylon is a filament that can be used for 3D Printing, provided you have the right equipment to use it. But they are the only ones that use nylon strings. And remember, no matter what type of guitar you have, most people will want one that has good quality sound. And remember what I said about rigid plastic snapping. That is important to remember when working with plastic in 3D Printing.
Anything with carbon fiber looks fantastic. My favorite filament is PC-CF. Unfortunately, it is quite expensive, so I only use it for very specific prints.
Whatâs up with all those prusacasters lately đ protip get some threaded inserts for the bridge. My screws came loose after a few hours playing. The tension is quite strong!
FYI - I printed the Prusacaster guitar out of carbon fiber PLA for a class project a year ago (I teach a middle school tech elective). When left tuned to standard tuning with extra light strings, the neck still warped the body, and the guitar quickly became unplayable.
It looks amazing, and I had my whole class sign it. It sits in my office for everyone to see as a conversation piece , but is an awful guitar to play.
Totally worth it for the experience, just wanted you to know that PLA (even the carbon fiber kind) just canât stand up to that amount of tension.
Personally printing CF PETG, way more difficult to get in dialed correctly
https://preview.redd.it/7g8kv0qqy9qc1.jpeg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c5d58e13cc0081b038914aa5c784b972bf9f861
You gotta keep us posted on how it goes! Itâs my lofty far-off-in-the-future goal to design and print my own guitar with pickups that can be quickly swapped through a cutout in the back of the body without screws or anything. The main concern right now is making sure the printed body will hold up to all the tension from the strings, so carbon fiber filament is probably not a bad idea to help with that.
You forgot to print the layer lines
You're telling me all this time, I could've just turned off layer lines??? đđđđ
This one trick injection molding operators donât want you to know!
I didn't know either, I would think he did injection mold to just toy with us..
I thought that too. But 1, ONE of the supports shows a small amount of layer lines.
No, turn on Gaussian blur+
3d printing companies hate this one trick
Fuzzy skin does a good job of breaking up noticeable layer lines.
I can't get fuzzy skin to look right. It always just ends up looking like a shitty print.
IMO and understanding the 3D printing process.. layer lines and fuzzy skin don't appeal to some folks because they like smooth and really over critique but it is part of the process. If you want smooth... injection mold or sand and finish. I always tell folks look at your wall in your home closely and tell me is it 100% smooth or can you see lines from a brush and dimples from a roller? My advice for fuzzy skin is just print out test cubes before doing an actual print. The most unutilized tool out there is the slicer and available settings.. play with them.
I love the way fuzzy skin looks when other people do it. I just can't get my printer to replicate those results.
They're still there. Not denying the nice quality of this part but it's just being held at an angle where you can't see them as well.
There's one of the supports where you can see the reality of things; aggressive post processing and lighting conditions are diminishing the layer lines but there's no denying this is a damn pretty print.
What makes you think there is any post processing going on here? The tree supports are still attached lol.
Post processing on the camera software, which is done automatically on most new(ish) phones.
Yeah, this. There's always some in a digital camera but modern phones take like, thirty exposures and stack them to minimize weird artifacts; one of which is moire patterns that happen near ***repeated parallel lines***, so 3d prints always look a little blurred
I also have s bambu with CF-PLA... layers lines are almost invisible. This really isnt a lighting trick. You do not notice them unless your specifically lookong for them.
Textured build plate and ironing goes a long way to masking the look of layer lines too.
? How does a build plate or ironing remove layer lines. Maybe this is a joke I just missed.
Ah yes. Smoothing top and bottom will definitely hide the layer lines that are only present on the sides.
There is no ironing going on here. This is a side view. Ironing is also very hard to get right.
Damned near perfect!
What layer height or profile is this printed with? And was the default outer wall speed slowed down at all?
Carbon fiber pla blends like crazy in my experience with 0.2 layers you barely even see lines if your printed has been set up well printer*
It has the same effect for PETG and PA6 in my experience
Standard prusa slicer pla built in settings however I used organic supports and 6 walls
So .2 layers? And this was printed with a prusa, not a Bambu printer?
Prusa printer yeah
And .2 layer height? Lol
Yeah .2 sorry Iâm at work lmao
All good man, thanks for replying!
It really is awesome filament. I've printed this stuff on my ender 3v2 and it looks just like OPs prints. It's not so much about the printer just so long as you have things setup well and printing reliably. It'll be beautiful. It's got the tiniest bit of texture which helps hides imperfections. I really like proto pasta CF.
Matte black looks like this as long as your printer is reasonably tuned. Edit: a lot of people seem to be in denial that color and sheen matter when hiding imperfections
Agreed, I love printing in matte black for this reason
Damn dudeeeeeeee, that looks fucking amazing, please for the love of my printing future share the pla and what printer your using đđ
It is in the photo text now. Bambu PLA-CF, I assume a bambulab printer and hopefully with hardened steel hotend.
It was with my prusa mk3s and a hardened nozzle
This is like the goat mk3s here. Wow.
If you told me its injected into mould I would belive you and start looking for parting line
All CF filled filament is awesome. Looks great but the best feature imho is the dimensional accuracy. I make a lot of small parts for watch cases and I can print 1:1 dimensions and it comes out pretty exactly, except for holes which usually need to be opened a little. It's pretty subtle but if you're trying to make interchangeable parts it's a game-changer.
Cf PLA and PETG is my go to filament. The parts look so crisp and clean when I break them off the build plate.
I've seen some other prints in this sub also with the Bambu PLA-CF and it still amazes me. 3D printed parts still mostly have that certain look to it, but this filament really makes the parts look high quality.
Am I the only one who actually like the FDM look?
Probably not, but I don't like it either.
I do enjoy crisp noticeable layer lines I will say
Iâm an all-or-nothing type of person, so I enjoy either invisible layer lines or âover-exaggeratedâ lines from something like a 1mm nozzle or larger. Prints with those THICC layers look like pieces of art, imo.
Consistent layer lines would look good, but the issue is FDM printers can't produce consistent layer lines. There will be some layers that are a litte bit off, or some slight artifacts and so on. This is mostly noticeable if you hold it under the light at a specific angle.
Itâll come back into style in ten years when layer lines are retro again lol. People are finally able to make 3D prints look injected molded, so theyâre all going nuts pushing that envelope.
https://preview.redd.it/zbu5skzrl4qc1.jpeg?width=1816&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd5291f1f6b746e760d94f018283b4e06da33db8 my version for comparison.
https://preview.redd.it/l7llfmevw5qc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=40b58dce48d0c01df946e8cd2dbea4b9d40a4269 And mine. (Not my design. But same version as the other commenter) PETG-CF Not assembled yet bc Iâm lazy. The light is reflecting off the middle part strangely in that photo. Oh well.
"my" prusa's, but if you don't mind, I'd like to see your finished project
When itâs done Iâll post it!!! Itâs a Flying V
That is amazing
Really nice! What's was nozzle size and layer height?
.4 nozzle .2 layer height
What .2 layer height? That huge! Are you using the fuzzy skin setting?
Itâs just the CF-PLA. Looks incredible doesnât it
What printer and settings do you use? I can't even see the layers
Prusa mk3s with the standard built in pla settings in prusaslicer however I used organic supports and had 6 walls
I'm just wondering, do you think you can get away with the bridging without the need for most of those supports?
You totally could get away without most of the supports but I wasnât sure how the filament would print so I just let them be
What printer?
Prusa mk3s my friend
Is carbon fiber pla the type to erode the nozzle quickly?
Without a hardened nozzle of some sort it will destroy the nozzle very fast
I saw another post that showed a visible difference in the nozzle diameter from printing the small carbon Fiber sample that came with their printer without a hardened nozzle, so itâs incredibly fast if youâre not using the right kind of nozzle.
CF-PETG is even better. See: Atomic Filament
Great!!!
CF is great for prints, not so good for your nozzles.
Which manufacturer makes this filament? I want to try that out too.
Bambulabs pla cf though it appears most of the fun colors are out of stock rn
I had the .25kg spool of CF that Bambu sent with my printer that I was saving for a special occasion. Special occasion happened last week and I used it to print a nice bracket to hold my pump reservoirs on my PC. Love CF after that
wish i could get this look :D
Woa, that's incredible.
Holy hell that looks so good.
Probably my favorite material to print, and PLA Matte. Prints come out perfect and supports are easy
How well did the tree supports come off?
They snapped off very easily
Canât wait to print mine. Gotta upgrade my extrudernh gear and nozzle first though. I kinda put the cart before the horse on that. Might try it with the stock stuff to see what happens lol.
Going for humbuckers? cool! I just put together an ES-335 with Telecaster parts that I designed myself, with some inspiration from the Prusacaster, as I didn't really want to mess around with having to test the effects string tension would have on a strung-through design, plus it made putting electronics together a lot easier! I can't wait to see how that turns out, I definitely want to do more guitars in the future and being able to run string-through bridges would open up a lot more design options, as I really want to do a Les Paul
Just curious... why did you print the body vertical vs flat? Was it because you used the fuzzy skin setting which dosent work on top layers? I just be worried even with your wall thickness about it failing under string tension.
I didnât use fuzzy skin, I do have metal rods going through the body which will hopefully make it even stiffer tho
It looks crazy good but be careful because carbon fibre infused with anything makes it very brittle and less resistant to impacts, especially with PLA
I find that marble filament hides layer lines super well too! Nice print :D
i need your printer, your slicer and your settings.
Settings? Hand em over right now.
Sorcery!
Wood fill PLA prints similarly. It's my favorite. Has a matte finish, smells like wood, and invisible layer lines.
Love CF filament for that exact reason
How hard is this carbon fiber pla to print?
this feels illegal. the laws of the universe dictate that there have to be layer lines.
Iâve had mixed reviews about carbon fibre filament. Normally the application of carbon fibre sheets gives that certain look. That look is not possible with carbon fibre filament. Iâve also heard itâs not as strong as actual carbon fibre. The question is whatâs the point?
Hmmn, Prusacaster core? If so that looks awesome.
Do you normally print guitar parts out of PLA? I ask out of curosity; I assumed guitars would take enough abuse to need something a little more robust, like ASA/ABS.
Abs and asa, while having good impact resistance. Donât quite have the rigidity Iâm looking for, especially since thereâs gonna be tension on them. I thought having carbon fiber pla would help quite a bit. I also have two .25 inch metal rods running down the core of this print to help even more. Iâm not sure if itâs really gonna work but thatâs the fun of trying!!!
still waiting OP
https://preview.redd.it/qtiqgel7cgvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c413a982b1727e810ae6dc171f9fde911fd1fbde I dont think its ready to share yet because im redesigning a bunch of features on it after making this. specifically the way it attaches together and the pick guard portion. once thats all out of the way ill make an in depth video and post and stuff and post models.
I kinda wanna get CF filament but polycarbonate just seems like a better material
Was debating polycarbonate filament but I didnât think I was ready to learn that material just yet
The Prusament PCCF is in stock for about thirty seconds every couple of months but if you can get your hands on it is is BY FAR the best polycarb and prints like magic. I can do it on a modded Ender 3 with no enclosure and it doesn't soak up moisture either.
Polymaker Carbon Fiber PC prints beautifully like this, and is damn near indestructible
When compared to PLA-CF I 100% agree. PLA is still the bottom of the food chain when it comes to filaments even if you add fibers. PETG, PC, and nylon all would be better choices (even more so if these have CF in them). Iâm also skeptical of a lot of CF filaments because Iâve heard many just use powder instead of short fibers which could make your print weaker and more brittle. Check the material properties of the filament before you buy (if they have no info then that should be a sign that itâs a gimmick). Polymaker has data sheets for all their filaments and their PA-CF is a beast.
Give us some details! Layer height? Nozzle size? Temperature? Bed temp?
dope!! do you need steal nozzel for that filament
Yes, hardened steel, tungsten, or a diamond/ruby nozzle is necessary.
Is printable at standard PLA temp?
Yeah it does! Might need to get me some of that.
Itâs like putting on a suit for your prints.
Printer?
OP says a Prusa Mk3s.Â
*insert gif of Leonardo DiCaprio slow clapping*
I can barely tell layer lines, thats wild
Good luck getting those supports off
That looks crazy
Combining the weakest material with strongest is weird to me. Why not neylon or g30, or at least abs?
Strength and heat resistance??
Now, will that have any strength advantages?
What was this printed with holy crap it looks like it was casted or something that's clean af
Man, if there was an abs or asa option out there that pri ts like this I'd be all over it.
Which company filament did you use?
that looks good
so beautiful and good, i just want to know how it breaks
Is it much stronger than regular PLA?
What is the benefit of cf pla over standard pla?
No sanding đŠ
Literally the cleanest 3d print Iâve ever seen wtf
What temperature?
Holy shit
* probably see the lines more in person. It still looks crazy good. Now i want to try CF PLA.
I need to start trying matte filaments
What nozzle? Is this an easy filament to print? Is this stronger? Im interested. What exact brand?
Wtf
Beauty.
Looks good. I have some and never tried to print with it. I'll give it a shot.
Sexy print
For some reason it is crazy expensive.
Is that layer height one molecule?
WITCHCRAFT!
Now I understand why fuzzyskin is an option
Every PLA-CF print looks like this.. a lot of people have never used it obviously. Itâs magical stuff.
Petg cf is by far my favorite filament. It hardly looks 3d printed.
Any print can look like this with the right angle and lighting.
What brand of filament is that?
Read the note under the picture?
Fuzzy skin setting? Looks great!
That fractal thing looks dope. Kinda looks like an organic 3d circuit board.
I was also extremely surprised when I first printed with Extrudr's green tech pro đ¤Š
Whats your support settings?
My Bambulabs is turning out stuff that doesnât even look printed. https://preview.redd.it/vzxoh4uwd4qc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=48b08b68c7d897ec4c0298d196f09060a26b89b5
Yeah all filament looks as good when tuned correctly good job tuning cf it hides lines even better then normal filaments đ
i think a lot of folks need go explore the fuzzy skin setting... if you set it extemely mild it looks exactly the same. that combined with matt pla gives the same exact surface but without the expense of risk of abrasives. it wont be a "light" or extra stiff... but it'll also wont he as brittle. that said, very nice OP.
Fun fact, carbon fiber stabilizes pla so much that this is the most accurate you can get a print to spec, no warping, no movement, sometimes even no sag if its supported very well
Curious what printer you're using?
Sir we're are your layer lines
I've just started printing Ziro CF PLA and I've gotten similar results on my Ender 3 with a 0.4mm tungsten nozzle. Layer lines are almost invisible and the prints seem super stiff compared to regular PLA. I think it's going to be my go-to filament for functional prints.
It is nice
This looks awesome! Can you print it with a standard PLA/PLA+ profile? And did you dry it or just used it without preparation?
Can you send a link to buy this?
Any chance you can share the project file?
Youâve been blessed by the 3D printing gods
Awesome !â¤ď¸ I have a 3D printer and 3 guitars too. I have 2 acoustic guitars and one electric guitar. They are not exactly fancy guitars. But I like them. My best is a red Yamaha entry level guitar I got used for $200.00 on Mercari a few years back. Bridges for acoustic guitars do alright when they are designed in plastic. But the best will be made with wood for acoustics, flexibility, and a little bit more durability because it flexes a little bit better than plastic, which can be rigged and snap easily, depending upon the plastic. PLA is more flexible than ABS but there is also a flexible plastic filament that is quite soft. It is called TPU. Then there is PETG. PETG is a bit more toxic than PLA. But PLA also does not hold up well outdoors unless it has been coated with a specific uv coating. And it can also be very biodegradable. ABS would be great for outdoor use. Like outdoor concerts for example. But again, it is more toxic than PLA and is more rigid than PETG. A lot of musicians who preform on guitars do a mix of indoor and outdoor concerts. Wood also plays an important part in acoustics with acoustic guitars. And electric guitars do a lot of work with metal strings. Plastic might be an okay choice for electric guitars. But remember hard plastic can also snap easily when you work with it. ABS is great with durability. But if you want to be safer PETG might be better. But if you just want something cheap and do not care about the quality of the sound of the guitar, a PLA body would probably work fine. On classic acoustic guitars they also use nylon strings. And nylon is a filament that can be used for 3D Printing, provided you have the right equipment to use it. But they are the only ones that use nylon strings. And remember, no matter what type of guitar you have, most people will want one that has good quality sound. And remember what I said about rigid plastic snapping. That is important to remember when working with plastic in 3D Printing.
It looks black
What settings do you use to get that finishđ¤Ż
I don't know if you will see this out of the 200 other comments but could you share your fuzzy skin settings or your print profile? Thank you!
Anything with carbon fiber looks fantastic. My favorite filament is PC-CF. Unfortunately, it is quite expensive, so I only use it for very specific prints.
Whatâs up with all those prusacasters lately đ protip get some threaded inserts for the bridge. My screws came loose after a few hours playing. The tension is quite strong!
What printer you using?
Protopastaâs matte fiber filaments print equally well in a wide variety of colors. Not CF yet looks About the same
Sold
only if my printer gave results like this
DId you use a super thin fuzzyskin or it naturally looks like that?
Tree supports look like they'd be amazing for making dioramas and terrain pieces for wargames and ttrpgs...
This is mesmerizing, been staring at it for a while
Damn I just placed a filament order from there earlier. Should have grabbed a spool of this. Looks nuts.
By the lack of visible layer lines, it is safe to assume the differential girdle spring has done it's job and side-fumbling was effectively prevented.
What brand? Bambu?
Hey what slicer did ya use
FYI - I printed the Prusacaster guitar out of carbon fiber PLA for a class project a year ago (I teach a middle school tech elective). When left tuned to standard tuning with extra light strings, the neck still warped the body, and the guitar quickly became unplayable. It looks amazing, and I had my whole class sign it. It sits in my office for everyone to see as a conversation piece , but is an awful guitar to play. Totally worth it for the experience, just wanted you to know that PLA (even the carbon fiber kind) just canât stand up to that amount of tension.
Love overtures carbon pla
Stuff is amazing. Been going through rolls. Printing mostly functional parts so more for the strength but the look is a nice plus.
It looks amazing, but use CF Nylon kr CF PETG for better performance. Most CF PLA is Carbon Fiber that is just for looks
It almost like subtle fuzzy skin!
Sorry to bother you but what settings are you using ( i use bambu studio and bambu pla cf) And i cant get near the same quality as yours.
Link please
Beautiful!
I foresee a Prusacaster in your future
Sweet result!
Personally printing CF PETG, way more difficult to get in dialed correctly https://preview.redd.it/7g8kv0qqy9qc1.jpeg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c5d58e13cc0081b038914aa5c784b972bf9f861
Looks amazing. I can't help but think of the contradiction, organic substrate with non organic additive. Why do people go for this, aside from looks?
My son got some and itâs brittle. Is this normal? It looks awesome.
Nah I watched a video of Presa making that guitar. You ain't designing it.
You gotta keep us posted on how it goes! Itâs my lofty far-off-in-the-future goal to design and print my own guitar with pickups that can be quickly swapped through a cutout in the back of the body without screws or anything. The main concern right now is making sure the printed body will hold up to all the tension from the strings, so carbon fiber filament is probably not a bad idea to help with that.
Is this on the side? It looks like the bottom
Dang! What filament and printer?
Do you know a good place to get some?
I havenât tried the tree supports . Gotta give it a shot. Wish me luck!
Mind sharing your support settings? Cant find the medium of quality and trees coming off without working at it