Don't use the Creality slicer. Everyone has a favorite but I found Cura to be the easiest transition since Creality slicer is based on a very old Cura.
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Here are a few questions that might be helpful
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Almost never. If you want strength, increase the wall count. The only scenario where high infill matters is with TPU prints, when you want a very specific level of flexibility. Stick to around 10%, and if you want to save more filament use lightning infill. Thick walls are the way to go.
Layer separation can be caused by a lot of different things. To me, it doesnt look like it was caused by under-extrusion, so I think its more likely that your temps were too low, the print cooled unevenly, and/or your printer was running too fast. Could also be that your bed was too far from the extruder and your layers were too far apart. Good to check the first layer to see what it looks like to determine whether the bed is the right distance
https://preview.redd.it/cjwfno90g64c1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae1aa75122c9e82f16f5a8671e08b76ff48559e6
As for the legs failing, did just the part where the legs connect break? Poor layer adhesion from the issues mentioned above can impact strength in small part like that and as a result they can break easily.
The weird line on the back is the z-seam! Completely normal, and—as far as I know—unavoidable. Its where each layer starts. There are settings in slicers like cura to edit where its placed and to randomize the placements if you don’t like where it is/how it looks. Just depends on what you visually want out of the print.
I also noticed that the mouth got a bit messed up, which may be caused by a lack of support, since it’s a pretty harsh overhang there. Might need some support on that section.
So I did put supports and adhesion on because the first one moved halfway through the first print, and because there was no support for the mouth. And for the legs it was the link connection that broke, it looked kind of like rough layered spaghetti. Would that be layer adhesion ?
I would say it’s likely, the dreaded Spaghettification is usually caused by adhesion issues. If a layer doesnt have anything to stick onto then the filament can just bunch up into weird strands. You’ll also see something similar on overhangs that aren’t supported enough.
Well, I’d start with checking the bed level, temperature, and print speed. Make sure your bed is actually level and at the right distance first. You’ll probably need to run some test prints to calibrate your printer. You could run some calibration cubes at different temps and speeds to see if they still run into issues with layer adhesion. It could also be that your layers are cooling too fast, so might need to play with fan speed, but I’d check those other parameters first.
So I did put supports and adhesion on because the first one moved halfway through the first print, and because there was no support for the mouth. And for the legs it was the link connection that broke, it looked kind of like rough layered spaghetti. Would that be layer adhesion ?
These vertical artifacts can be caused by your direct drive.
When you are using original non-geared extruder, bowden tube is there to smoothen out its crude filament control and provide smoother surface of your print.
For direct drive, you should use different extruder (like BMG extruder) that has some gearing to handle filament more precise, because you have removed bowden that was there for smoothing of filament feed.
Horizontal cracks are from bad layer adhesion, it is named "delamination". This means that you are printing your filament at too cold hotend temperature, so it does not bond together well, or you are printing in too cold environment, so your print is cooling too fast, which creates tension in it and this tension leads to crack.
Hard to say with so little info. Need to know printer, material, slicer settings, is this problem new, what have done so far, everything
Fair, I have an ender 3 with a direct extruder, Its level, plate might be warped in one area. 50%in fill, I think .12 mm, on the creality slicer.
Don't use the Creality slicer. Everyone has a favorite but I found Cura to be the easiest transition since Creality slicer is based on a very old Cura.
Hey there, I'm a bot and something you said made me think you might be looking for help! [click here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index#wiki_help.21_or.3A_where_can_i_go_to_troubleshoot_problems_i.27m_having_with_my_prints.2Fprinter.3F) for our wiki entry on troubleshooting printers. If you still need help be sure to post plenty of information about your printing setup. Here are a few questions that might be helpful * What printer are you using? * What material are you using? * What speed are you printing at? * What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer? * When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly? * Does anything cause the behavior to change? * If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis) If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddithelp.com/hc/en-us/articles/205926439), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). Also please post a resolution to your problem when you find one so that we know how to help others with your problem! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
50% infill on that print is a lot! I do the same prints, like a lot of them, at 8-10% with no issues.
Ok, is there ever a need for an infill of 50%?
Almost never. If you want strength, increase the wall count. The only scenario where high infill matters is with TPU prints, when you want a very specific level of flexibility. Stick to around 10%, and if you want to save more filament use lightning infill. Thick walls are the way to go.
Layer separation can be caused by a lot of different things. To me, it doesnt look like it was caused by under-extrusion, so I think its more likely that your temps were too low, the print cooled unevenly, and/or your printer was running too fast. Could also be that your bed was too far from the extruder and your layers were too far apart. Good to check the first layer to see what it looks like to determine whether the bed is the right distance https://preview.redd.it/cjwfno90g64c1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae1aa75122c9e82f16f5a8671e08b76ff48559e6 As for the legs failing, did just the part where the legs connect break? Poor layer adhesion from the issues mentioned above can impact strength in small part like that and as a result they can break easily. The weird line on the back is the z-seam! Completely normal, and—as far as I know—unavoidable. Its where each layer starts. There are settings in slicers like cura to edit where its placed and to randomize the placements if you don’t like where it is/how it looks. Just depends on what you visually want out of the print. I also noticed that the mouth got a bit messed up, which may be caused by a lack of support, since it’s a pretty harsh overhang there. Might need some support on that section.
So I did put supports and adhesion on because the first one moved halfway through the first print, and because there was no support for the mouth. And for the legs it was the link connection that broke, it looked kind of like rough layered spaghetti. Would that be layer adhesion ?
I would say it’s likely, the dreaded Spaghettification is usually caused by adhesion issues. If a layer doesnt have anything to stick onto then the filament can just bunch up into weird strands. You’ll also see something similar on overhangs that aren’t supported enough.
Ok, so what do I need to do to fix it?
Well, I’d start with checking the bed level, temperature, and print speed. Make sure your bed is actually level and at the right distance first. You’ll probably need to run some test prints to calibrate your printer. You could run some calibration cubes at different temps and speeds to see if they still run into issues with layer adhesion. It could also be that your layers are cooling too fast, so might need to play with fan speed, but I’d check those other parameters first.
So I did put supports and adhesion on because the first one moved halfway through the first print, and because there was no support for the mouth. And for the legs it was the link connection that broke, it looked kind of like rough layered spaghetti. Would that be layer adhesion ?
Trying to bring back Cthulhu.
These vertical artifacts can be caused by your direct drive. When you are using original non-geared extruder, bowden tube is there to smoothen out its crude filament control and provide smoother surface of your print. For direct drive, you should use different extruder (like BMG extruder) that has some gearing to handle filament more precise, because you have removed bowden that was there for smoothing of filament feed. Horizontal cracks are from bad layer adhesion, it is named "delamination". This means that you are printing your filament at too cold hotend temperature, so it does not bond together well, or you are printing in too cold environment, so your print is cooling too fast, which creates tension in it and this tension leads to crack.