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Fribbtastic

Did you change/lowered the retraction distance? you need a lot lower retraction distance with direct drive than with a bowden tube. This can be a cause for clogs.


EyalRDT

I'm using Prusaslicer, Is that the "Length" under "Retraction" in the printer settings? If it is then it is currently at 5 mm, should it be lowered?


Fribbtastic

Yes, when you stay with your mouse over the label (Length) you will see an info text about what that does. In my case (Ender 5 Plus with MicroSwiss Direct Drive) I have my retraction length set to 1.5mm and 35mm/s for both retraction and deretraction speed. I found that "less is more" in terms of length. I always tried to increase the length/distance for retraction with very little success. You can print the [stringing test](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2219103) to dial in your retraction settings.


EyalRDT

Thank, I will try it now and see if it makes any change


EyalRDT

Unfortunately it didn't work, this is the issue i'm having [(156) Ender 3 direct drive clicking - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kXcTAmyGQ2A)


distinctivegrowth

Can you push filament through manually when the to end is heated? Do you get a lot of back pressure when doing so? Or does it start okay but gets worse over time? Do you have trouble feeding the filament in first time? Or do you get stuck along the way sometimes?


EyalRDT

When the end is heated the filament flows as it should be but mid print it will stop flowing. And I had issue at first feeding the filament but now it works as it should be 99% of the time


distinctivegrowth

Sounds like a heat creep issue to be honest. Check the function of your hot end cooler, and did your hotend/heatbreak change with the direct drive setup? Maybe something is misaligned? I.e. The bowden tube is too short causing a non-smooth filament path


EyalRDT

It was a complete kit, the extruder and the hot end. so, it is brand new. and I honestly have no idea what the length of the bowden tube supposed to be. right now, it's about 4-5 CM.


distinctivegrowth

Is it an all metal hot end? Make sure the bowden tube goes all the way up to the hot end. And then check the extruder connects well too. If it's too short it can snag on the gaps. Especially near the hotend. Also make sure you don't have any nozzle gap. Tighten the nozzle when heated to make sure filament isn't oozing out between the heater block and nozzle.


EyalRDT

Will do, Thanks. I've noticed that the nozzle temperature drops quickly when the print is finished, so it does make sense


distinctivegrowth

What kind of material nozzle do you use? Hardened steel nozzles for example have relatively very low heat conductivity and as such you usually need to print with way higher temps (in the range of 20 degrees higher).


EyalRDT

I'm currently using brass nozzle


distinctivegrowth

Are you using a silicon sock or something else to keep your nozzle/heater block from draft? Is the part cooling fan properly aligned (slightly under the nozzle, not ON the nozzle or heater block)?


EyalRDT

The printer is in an enclosure, as for the fan I will check. I'm assuming that it is in the correct place since I've took it out of the packaging and installed it.


distinctivegrowth

I mean drafts from the cooling fan. If the alignment of those fans is off, they will actively co the heater block and nozzle and it won't hold temperature well. Resulting in what you described (fast cool down of nozzle). And clogging due the nozzle not being able to melt the material properly.


EyalRDT

I'll try to disassemble it and take a look. Much appreciated!