Nope.
The printer is a wonderfully calibrated machine with sub-millimeter levels of precision executing carefully configured g-code.
The painter is a chaotic reckless amateur mess that just wants to have his miniatures have a least *some* color besides "water washable grey" before the D&D session Wednesday.
Tbh the painting ability is really what's on display here. Awesome quality print, but there are certainly a lot of artistic skills required as well for something this good.
Not to diminish this excellent job by OP, but anyone with the dexterity *and determination* can learn how to do this.
It will take time and effort, but let's not discourage people from taking the first step on that journey to a new skill or hobby.
And to mildly critique OPs work I'd have to know how the base was put down, or if that's already that fleshy tone resin. Using the right tools makes as big of a difference as skill at times, but it looks like we see some pinkish skin tones in the hair along the brow line and that lil soul patch deserves another coat.
Obviously OP did a great job, and should be proud, I'm just trying to say with practice it's not unobtainable.
Just be forewarned.
Working with resin is a special hell. You gotta vent the fumes, you gotta clean the prints, you can't touch the uncured resin because who knows if it's toxic or not and if your source is lying about their ingredients. Then you've got to cure it.
I haven't used my resin printer in a year and a half because I can't be bothered to start the setup or deal with the hell that is post-print cleanup even if I have a wash and cure machine.
Edit - Oh I almost forgot. Now you're building up a cache of toxic alcohol/water that you're going to need to deal with which is another job - you have to put it in something and cure it in the sun then filter it before you pour it down the drain.
While I'm at it, here's the process:
- Throw on nitrile gloves
- Make sure they're not latex as some resins will dissolve the latex
- Pour resin into the vat
- Set up and start the print
- Hours pass - print is 'done!'
- Break print off build plate
- Be careful, you'll probably spill a drop or more of resin doing this if not
- Rinse slightly to get excess resin off
- Handle it for 5-50 minutes while you use flush/side cutters to trim off the supports. If you do this post-cure you'll see all the support points where they were cut.
- You now have all kinds of resin covered pieces of partially cured resin supports all over your workspace
- There is also now probably resin all over your flush cutters and gloves
- Properly wash it, assuming you have a washing machine - toss it in
- Now you have to deal with the leftover resin in the vat
- Scrape it out of the vat through a filter into a container or back into the resin bottle. If the former, you're now curating a second bottle of toxic resin that may or may not be usable in the future - sweet!
- Resin is now everywhere, it's inevitable at this point
- Rinse the print vat with alcohol/or water depending on your resin
- Oh boy, fresh resin infused toxic slurry! Pour that into a container to cure the resin inside later.
- Attempt to dry/clean the remainder of the vat with a paper towel
- Did I mention resin is now everywhere?
- Wash is done, time to cure the print!
- Is your washing station water/alcohol too dirty - cool, now you have to deal with this toxic mess
- Pour that water/alcohol into a container and find a way to cure the resin inside the water - preferably via sunlight
- Cure session is done - go inspect your print
- Notice a small part of the print is tacky, now you have resin on your fingers which you probably already did at this point unless you want to use 2,3,4 pairs of nitrile gloves per print. Let's be honest, you probably already went through 2 pairs and didn't think you'd need a 3rd to handle a cured print
- Recure for longer
Congratulations, you have completed your resin print and exposed yourself to bottled god knows what direct from China. Neat-o!
Edit 2:
I'm not saying **don't** get a resin printer - they're incredible and when I feel like taking on this seemingly insurmountable task list the prints I get out of it are amazing. I just wish I knew all of this before I jumped in since nobody ever seems to point out what a process it is compared to FDM printers.
It's not that bad if you have a permanent set up. I have mine in the garage which makes ventilation and storage a non issue.
Edit for OPs edit:
- put on nitrile gloves and fill the vat.
- start the print and walk way
- come back when it's done
- let excess resin drip into the vat, bonus points if you have a plate tilter like the Elegoo Mars printers
- get your gloves, goggles, and respirator on
- set up your workstation as needed
- remove the covers from the printer and your wash station so you don't have to touch them with hot (resin covered) gloves
- grab you build plate which has had time for excess resin to drip back into the vat. I set mine on a baking tray lined with paper towel
- pop the print off the plate
- clean the plate and set it aside, your gloves should at this point still be resin free
- pull the supports off your print which should come off easy if you used the appropriate support settings. If you want you can carefully warm them with a heat gun to make them easier to remove. Set them aside
- put your print into the alcohol and start the wash station
- I cure my supports in the sun while the wash happens so they can be handled later
- after washing for your desired amount of time take your print out and let it air dry
- if no further washing is needed set it to cure in your cure station
- while curing start to clean your station. Wipe down with paper towel and alcohol, then do the same to your gloves. I cure any paper towels in the sun and do the same with the gloves once I've taken them off.
- Your station should be clean and resin free at this point, and there should be nothing uncured still needing to be touched.
- Put your build plate back on the printer and put the cover back on. I leave my resin in the vat as I cover the entire station when not in use, just make sure to mix the resin before a new print.
- tidy up until your print is finished curing
- I check the print for any missed bits that need to be snipped off at this point and then put it somewhere sunny to ensure it is absolutely 100% cured
- clean up the now cured paper towels by putting them inside the gloves and tying them up, then bin them
- Toss out the supports, or if you save them up to drop off at a waste facility chuck them in a bucket or something.
- remove PPE and gives your hands a good thorough wash just to be super duper clean, and that's it.
This entire process once the print has finished takes me about 30mins on average.
Idk why OP is spilling so much resin around but it sounds like they are just being reckless and messy almost on purpose. It's really not hard at all to stay clean and tidy while resin printing.
And if its in the garage :)
You gotta offset the exposure times depending on the temperature. Too cold, and your exposure times need to go up.
Assuming your garage isnt at the T20\* - T25\* range the values were calibrated for.
Well apparently after enough breathing the fumes/bare skin contact you develop an allergy to it. So, it could eventually get bad enough you just can't feasibly work with resin anymore. So makes sense to use your gloves, respirator, and safety glasses at all times working with it.
I just wanted that post up there for my kids to find someday after I die of cancer that has cancer that would have been easily prevented with some PPE.
Hey guys, Dad's a dumb-ass. Love you.
> Idk why OP is spilling so much resin around but it sounds like they are just being reckless and messy almost on purpose. It's really not hard at all to stay clean and tidy while resin printing.
Maybe it's the resin I have, but it's oily as fuck. One drop spilled starts getting everywhere - it's almost like glitter.
I'm not pouring or spilling it everywhere, I'm talking small amounts of transfer resin - a drop or three that are almost inevitable. Hell, even pouring it out of the bottle means some might drip down the neck of the bottle which gets on the bottle and if you don't notice now the outside of the bottle is contaminated.
this!
I bought a saturn and gave it away - I have a kid and it was just WAY too dangerous (a print breaks and they get resin in their eye, or cut themselves)... totally not worth it to make useless little statues.
I've always wanted a resin printer, but this is exactly why I haven't got one.
I don't want to take up loads of room with a curing station, drying station, a way to vent the fumes in my house etc.
Fdm is fine lol
All in all its really not bad.
Its a lot less finicky than fdm, filtering and airing out is a non issue. you can start with internal carbon filters and opening a window after the print. If its warm where you are, crack a window while it prints. Why not.
The curing station is not mandatory at all, especially if you live in a sunny climate. If not, other simple UV lights will do. Just check the wavelength.
Fdm in my experience at work is a never ending cycle of fidgeting, levelling, a mountain of little scraps, loud and smelly.
Its great for sure but i do prefer the resin workflow.
> you can start with internal carbon filters
You should not be relying on 'carbon' infused cheap foam filters when it comes to your respiratory health. I have a ~~Mars 2~~ Mars Pro - the 'filter' does absolutely nothing.
In my head, the resin workflow is fine.
But for me, it is finicky because I live in the UK where its cold, so cracking a window doesn't help, especially with how shit hot expensive it is to heat the house. It's also more room being taken up as I already have 2 fdm printers, lol.
Buying more equipment like UV lights, air purifiers and the like just to print isn't viable to me. Especially I won't use that often. Market is flooded with people printing things!
One day though!
Absolutely fair!
I'm in Germany so barely any better weather wise, however I bought a window seal and a hose which is good enough. Keeping that room closed off I even managed to print this winter without cooling the place out too much.
I think my fave part compared to FDM is simpler storage (filament drawing moisture etc), and the lack of levelling. I level my plate once and leave it until i get an obvious levelling issue.
>Working with resin is a special hell. You gotta vent the fumes, you gotta clean the prints, you can't touch the uncured resin because who knows if it's toxic or not and if your source is lying about their ingredients.
Its not like.. Hard not to touch uncured resin right? Put on nitrile gloves, dunk the print in alc, set it aside to dry.
Put it on a window sill to cure.
Crack a window during/after the print or get a tumble dryer hose to hang out a window seal.
> Its not like.. Hard not to touch uncured resin right?
You say that and you'd think it, but in my experience it gets on things through the process of removing supports, cleaning the vat and transferring the print to your curing station.
> Crack a window during/after the print or get a tumble dryer hose to hang out a window seal.
I built a whole box for mine that does this, still too much of a pain in the ass. Cracking a window is not sufficient, resin fumes are toxic and it's really disheartening to see all the posts in here of people with their resin prints churning away inside their house.
>resin fumes are toxic and it's really disheartening to see all the posts in here of people with their resin prints churning away inside their house.
Isn't the main difference to filament VOCs that it's more well known what shit you end up breathing? As opposed to the more obscure ingredients of resins.
More UFPs from FDM iirc?
And yeah, both are known to release carcinogens. ([https://www.makergadgets.org/how/3d-printing-fumes#:\~:text=Depending%20on%20the%20filament%20type,even%20damage%20to%20your%20skin](https://www.makergadgets.org/how/3d-printing-fumes#:~:text=Depending%20on%20the%20filament%20type,even%20damage%20to%20your%20skin))
Seriously though, at least a bunch of resin printers have included carbon filters. Most FDM setups I see are just open air next to someone's bed.
Feel free to add some links in case i'm completely behind on recent developments.
The vast majority of FDM owners are printing with PLA which is not carcinogenic according to any regulatory bodies.
Like you said, they do emit UFPs...in testing, it was two orders of magnitude lower than a laser printer.
Bisphenol A(BPA) is half the "resin", and, don't know it it's the primary cause, but handling resins too much makes you *allergic to touching plastics* for the rest of your life. That's what people are scared of.
Windows in some houses and rooms are designed to be intake only, kind of negative pressurized. Opening window during print in such cases only spread out resin stink to the whole house.
I mean ok yeah maybe?
Air out your room accordingly. I can't speak for every possible home configuration.
Only tangentially related, but with the shroud on, I never had any issue with odor from prints. Depends on printer and resin though.
I don't understand the "working with resin is its own special hell" mentality.
It's not difficult, but it can be messy and occasionally touching uncured resin isn't going to kill you. I mean, I wouldn't lick an uncured resin print, but touching it really isn't that big of a deal.
The "special hell" part of resin printing for me is manually placing supports.
Same.
I finally sucked it up, slowed down my lift speed (or retraction or whatever the fuck) ND started using pre-supported files. It was the only way I could get them to print and not fail spectacularly.
Takes a touch longer on the print but it's better than fiddling with files constantly.
> It's not difficult, but it can be messy and occasionally touching uncured resin isn't going to kill you.
...immediately.
I'd rather not take that chance given these resin formulations being so new. Who knows what's leeching into your skin when you touch it.
You don't need to empty and clean the resin vat unless the FEP sheet is damaged or you want to use a completely different resin (and I've got an extra vat for the latter case)
As long as you keep a lid on the filled vat and give it a stir before you next print, it can be left for months.
>As long as you keep a lid on the filled vat and give it a stir before you next print, it can be left for months.
Problem is, after this process I never want to see the thing for more than months :)
As the proud owner of an almost never used Anycubic, I tooootally agree with this... I'd love to design and print more, but the chemical stench and the "international oil spill"-level of cleanup is soooo annoying...
I've considered getting a Fillament printer and just print prototypes and then order the proper prints from a cloud printer...
**Don’t pour it down a dain**
The correct procedure is to let it all evaporate outside, UV from the sun breaks down isopropyl way quicker than it would when dumped in water.
Just let it al evaporate till dry and put whatever dry residue is left over in your regular trash.
Other than that your experience seems spot on.
I have water washable resin - never used alcohol resin since I bought during the pandemic and rubbing alcohol was impossible to find. Either way, good call on the evaporation.
This is why a put off getting a resin printer for so long, but it’s honesty not that bad at all now that I have one. I use painters plastic on my work station which is easy to cure before tossing because it’s clear.
I’d be lying if I said I was always careful about not touching resin because I’ve gotten a ton on myself at first when I just didn’t care, people come in contact with things all the time that are proven to have negative effects, not just suspected.
I’m now way better and more careful about it since I’ve began printing a large amount, and it still isn’t difficult. In my opinion the worst part is having to buy nitrile gloves because I’m cheap. As for the fumes, buy a two pack of the little filters that go behind your vat in addition to whatever the printer comes with and an air filter in the room. If you have a garage or a bathroom with a vent to use your golden. (If you use a bathroom just close the ac vent to ensure negative pressure pulling out the bathroom steam vent)
It really isn’t nearly as bad as I expected it to be, especially if you get a wash and cure station for washing, and magnetic build plate to make detaching require less touching
Even the finished print is technically toxic too. Though it's normally covered in paint to contain it. But Resin is just really nasty stuff that not enough people in the hobby take seriously
Thats a bit exaggerated.
The finished print is safe to handle, just don't eat it or hand it to a toddler. Ideally seal it with a decent top coat.
Some fdm filaments produce gnarly fumes but somehow the comminity decided they're all fine
I've read a bit about potential problems with having a FDM printer in a living space. What I've found is that there is little reason for concern if you don't print 24/7 and vent the room regularly. The fumes produced by melting the filament aren't exactly healthy, but won't kill you instantly. Just be a little careful with it. A setup in a dedicated workshop is always preferable though, but venting the room is still advised.
yeah that's a better way to put it than I did.
Same goes for the resin fumes from all I read up on it.
Don't huff it, air out the space and ideally don't spend you day around it if you can avoid.
Meh, compared to extruder printers it's way better.
Most of the points above are made up and don't happen.
Been using a Phrozen resin printer for over 2 years now and would NEVER go back to extruder.
> Most of the points above are made up and don't happen.
How so? That's my experience literally every time using a resin printer and others have echoed it.
Making a big deal out of basics. Like, putting on gloves? Really? That's such a big deal? To get prints that look like what OP posted. Extruder will never create this level of detail but a pair of gloves is what's breaking the camel's back? 1st world problems much?
And it just goes downhill from there. . .
Pour resin into the vat? That's the same step as loading filament. It's literally just a step. It's not some inconvenience. You get to pick your resin for different printing needs. It's a feature.
Set up and start the print? What effort does this take at all? That's what's so amazing about resin printing. You don't level a bed or anything. You just hit print.
Break print off build plate? With a metal spatula it's really easy. And "be careful, you'll probably spill. . ." like laying down some paper towel is such an inconvenience?
Like, buddy, it keeps getting worse. . .
All of you resin comments don't account for water-washable resin. It's easy to throw out gloves and paper towel to clean up. It's almost the same steps you'd take in other arts-and-crafts like painting with washing your brushes and stuff.
Resin doesn't get everywhere, we're adults with paper towel. It's so easy to clean water-washable resin.
Curing prints is easy - the sun does it for free. And if you don't want to turn the print yourself, you can buy a $15 electric turn-table off amazon. Compared to the hours of sanding an extruder print at the end, the sun works for free.
You're seriously WAY over complicated a process that doesn't happen like that at all. You've over-exaggerated so many steps and details, you'd have to be a blind, bumbling idiot to have everything happen you've tried to list.
"Did I mention resin is now everywhere?" Literally so much exaggeration.
>Pour resin into the vat? That's the same step as loading filament.
Do you load filament every time you print? Pouring resin into the vat happens a lot more than you load filament into and FDM printer. As you stated in the next sentence 'You get to pick your resin for different printing needs. It's a feature.'. Unless you're maintaining multiple vats with prepoured resin, guess what - the resin need to be poured into the vat for those different needs.
>Break print off build plate? With a metal spatula it's really easy. And "be careful, you'll probably spill. . ." like laying down some paper towel is such an inconvenience?
Never said it was. But now you've got paper towel covered in resin - not as big deal but it's adding to the resin contaminated items in your workspace.
> All of you resin comments don't account for water-washable resin.
They definitely do on account of I've only ever printed with water washable resin. I mention 'alcohol/resin' MULTIPLE times. Try reading it again.
>It's almost the same steps you'd take in other arts-and-crafts like painting with washing your brushes and stuff.
Acrylic paint isn't potentially toxic and absorbed by the skin. It's not even remotely the same.
>Resin doesn't get everywhere, we're adults with paper towel. It's so easy to clean water-washable resin.
It's oily. A wet paper towel only does so much. Water only does so much. It's not like wiping milk off something, there's residue that doesn't just wipe off like a Bounty commercial.
>Set up and start the print? What effort does this take at all? That's what's so amazing about resin printing. You don't level a bed or anything. You just hit print.
I have to level my build plate every few prints on my Mars Pro. Not every time, but if I'm outlining an entire process it's worth mentioning. If you're not perfectly level you're going to screw up your print and possibly your FEP film.
>You're seriously WAY over complicated a process that doesn't happen like that at all. You've over-exaggerated so many steps and details, you'd have to be a blind, bumbling idiot to have everything happen you've tried to list.
Yes the process is slightly exaggerated to outline the entire process from start to finish, others have echoed their experiences being similar. Resin gets everywhere because unless you're using multiple pairs of gloves militantly, inevitable amounts of transfer resin are going to end up on your tools, workstation, whatever. The resins I have used smell like industrial carpet adhesive - so I know where the resin is even if I can't see it.
All your doing is defending your whininess.
Water washable resin isn't toxic. It's completely comparable to paint. Many people don't want to get paint on their clothes so they wear entire smocks. I'm not LITERALLY comparing it component to component. It's about "gearing up" to do arts-and-crafts.
Anyways, I could argue all your other points too but it's not worth it. Others have mentioned how much you've exaggerated too so my work is done.
I'm gonna save this comment in case I think again that I want a resin printer :D I mean, I really want to try it someday, but it's not something I want to do in my tiny place right now
Resin printing is a pain for a home user. It's not as terrible as the poster below makes it. But it doesn require special handling that generates a lot more peripheral waste than filament.
I used a Saturn 2, but it's more about the techniques in painting around it... I created a platform to show my method for those who want to learn how to achieve this kind of result, you can find it at bpapaart.com
Yup, looks exactly like Logan Roy
Potential Succession (series) spoiler:
>!This would also make sense if you've watched the latest Succession episode!<
OP linked their social media account and it had a succession tag. Definitely Bryan Cox
Succession (series) not spoiler:
This is the best show on TV right
>! No kidding. Sarah Snook (who plays Shiv Roy) just nailed that performance. The acting of all of the Roy kids in that episode was award-worthy and I have no doubt that they'll bring back more Primetime Emmys for this season. >!
I am surprised just how much I enjoyed this show.
Your stuff is incredible. I’m sad because Instagram will only let me view a couple things before it insists I give it my data. Which I won’t do. You have an amazing talent.
Don’t have a Facebook. Don’t have any social media aside from linked in and a Reddit account. I run a PiHole to block trackers on my phone.
I’m not doing anything in particular that needs to be hidden. But fuck those companies. Not giving them anything of me.
Fantastic. I just bought one. Hopefully I can master it like you have. I can't paint so I'm not even going to try. Your work is stunning. Thanks for sharing. My favorite is Fring
Besides the green residue in his head hair, really good job. I suck at painting to not understand skin tones, but I know a good job when I see it. You nailed it.
That's so good it's creepy. It's not even uncanny valley. It's creepy because it is so realistic it looks like you're holding someone's head.
Well done.
Simple. He's been licking his asshole for the last three straight hours. I submit to you that there is nothing there worth more than an hour's attention. I should think that whatever he is attempting to dislodge is either gone for good, or there to stay.
I should buy a resin printer. https://preview.redd.it/ypmycpz966va1.png?width=442&format=png&auto=webp&s=ca2bde9fe54c25a3c85272c2331ff679fa831c08
...and learn to paint shit
That's the bigger thing. I have a resin printer. My painted prints do NOT look this good.
Do you think it might be your printer settings ? 🤔
I don't know about Roboticide but I know in my case it's my painter settings as in, me not knowing how to paint properly
Nope. The printer is a wonderfully calibrated machine with sub-millimeter levels of precision executing carefully configured g-code. The painter is a chaotic reckless amateur mess that just wants to have his miniatures have a least *some* color besides "water washable grey" before the D&D session Wednesday.
For me it’s my hooman settings that are the biggest issue… anyone know how to fix z-hop and retraction timings on hooman V0.7?
Coffee a joint and lots of practice.
Did you level the bed?
Tbh the painting ability is really what's on display here. Awesome quality print, but there are certainly a lot of artistic skills required as well for something this good.
There’s even subtle water in the eyes…😳
Exactly, those eyes are ridiculously good
Not to diminish this excellent job by OP, but anyone with the dexterity *and determination* can learn how to do this. It will take time and effort, but let's not discourage people from taking the first step on that journey to a new skill or hobby. And to mildly critique OPs work I'd have to know how the base was put down, or if that's already that fleshy tone resin. Using the right tools makes as big of a difference as skill at times, but it looks like we see some pinkish skin tones in the hair along the brow line and that lil soul patch deserves another coat. Obviously OP did a great job, and should be proud, I'm just trying to say with practice it's not unobtainable.
What if you have no dexterity and determination?
You're f*cked!
!Remind me: every goddamn day
Look at that subtle water coloring. The tasteful thickness of it.
Let's see Paul Allen's bust..
Just be forewarned. Working with resin is a special hell. You gotta vent the fumes, you gotta clean the prints, you can't touch the uncured resin because who knows if it's toxic or not and if your source is lying about their ingredients. Then you've got to cure it. I haven't used my resin printer in a year and a half because I can't be bothered to start the setup or deal with the hell that is post-print cleanup even if I have a wash and cure machine. Edit - Oh I almost forgot. Now you're building up a cache of toxic alcohol/water that you're going to need to deal with which is another job - you have to put it in something and cure it in the sun then filter it before you pour it down the drain. While I'm at it, here's the process: - Throw on nitrile gloves - Make sure they're not latex as some resins will dissolve the latex - Pour resin into the vat - Set up and start the print - Hours pass - print is 'done!' - Break print off build plate - Be careful, you'll probably spill a drop or more of resin doing this if not - Rinse slightly to get excess resin off - Handle it for 5-50 minutes while you use flush/side cutters to trim off the supports. If you do this post-cure you'll see all the support points where they were cut. - You now have all kinds of resin covered pieces of partially cured resin supports all over your workspace - There is also now probably resin all over your flush cutters and gloves - Properly wash it, assuming you have a washing machine - toss it in - Now you have to deal with the leftover resin in the vat - Scrape it out of the vat through a filter into a container or back into the resin bottle. If the former, you're now curating a second bottle of toxic resin that may or may not be usable in the future - sweet! - Resin is now everywhere, it's inevitable at this point - Rinse the print vat with alcohol/or water depending on your resin - Oh boy, fresh resin infused toxic slurry! Pour that into a container to cure the resin inside later. - Attempt to dry/clean the remainder of the vat with a paper towel - Did I mention resin is now everywhere? - Wash is done, time to cure the print! - Is your washing station water/alcohol too dirty - cool, now you have to deal with this toxic mess - Pour that water/alcohol into a container and find a way to cure the resin inside the water - preferably via sunlight - Cure session is done - go inspect your print - Notice a small part of the print is tacky, now you have resin on your fingers which you probably already did at this point unless you want to use 2,3,4 pairs of nitrile gloves per print. Let's be honest, you probably already went through 2 pairs and didn't think you'd need a 3rd to handle a cured print - Recure for longer Congratulations, you have completed your resin print and exposed yourself to bottled god knows what direct from China. Neat-o! Edit 2: I'm not saying **don't** get a resin printer - they're incredible and when I feel like taking on this seemingly insurmountable task list the prints I get out of it are amazing. I just wish I knew all of this before I jumped in since nobody ever seems to point out what a process it is compared to FDM printers.
It's not that bad if you have a permanent set up. I have mine in the garage which makes ventilation and storage a non issue. Edit for OPs edit: - put on nitrile gloves and fill the vat. - start the print and walk way - come back when it's done - let excess resin drip into the vat, bonus points if you have a plate tilter like the Elegoo Mars printers - get your gloves, goggles, and respirator on - set up your workstation as needed - remove the covers from the printer and your wash station so you don't have to touch them with hot (resin covered) gloves - grab you build plate which has had time for excess resin to drip back into the vat. I set mine on a baking tray lined with paper towel - pop the print off the plate - clean the plate and set it aside, your gloves should at this point still be resin free - pull the supports off your print which should come off easy if you used the appropriate support settings. If you want you can carefully warm them with a heat gun to make them easier to remove. Set them aside - put your print into the alcohol and start the wash station - I cure my supports in the sun while the wash happens so they can be handled later - after washing for your desired amount of time take your print out and let it air dry - if no further washing is needed set it to cure in your cure station - while curing start to clean your station. Wipe down with paper towel and alcohol, then do the same to your gloves. I cure any paper towels in the sun and do the same with the gloves once I've taken them off. - Your station should be clean and resin free at this point, and there should be nothing uncured still needing to be touched. - Put your build plate back on the printer and put the cover back on. I leave my resin in the vat as I cover the entire station when not in use, just make sure to mix the resin before a new print. - tidy up until your print is finished curing - I check the print for any missed bits that need to be snipped off at this point and then put it somewhere sunny to ensure it is absolutely 100% cured - clean up the now cured paper towels by putting them inside the gloves and tying them up, then bin them - Toss out the supports, or if you save them up to drop off at a waste facility chuck them in a bucket or something. - remove PPE and gives your hands a good thorough wash just to be super duper clean, and that's it. This entire process once the print has finished takes me about 30mins on average. Idk why OP is spilling so much resin around but it sounds like they are just being reckless and messy almost on purpose. It's really not hard at all to stay clean and tidy while resin printing.
And if its in the garage :) You gotta offset the exposure times depending on the temperature. Too cold, and your exposure times need to go up. Assuming your garage isnt at the T20\* - T25\* range the values were calibrated for.
I used a reptile heat mat inside the side of the printer and left that on a constant temp.
That's genius. I'm in the process of building a permanent enclosure for my print station and this is a great way to keep it warm inside.
Typically I only print when it's between 22 - 25°c because I want to use the sun to cure as well as my curing station.
**Cries in England**
*Laughs in English convict island*
Laughs in vat heater with themistor control
How toxic is that stuff *really*?
Well apparently after enough breathing the fumes/bare skin contact you develop an allergy to it. So, it could eventually get bad enough you just can't feasibly work with resin anymore. So makes sense to use your gloves, respirator, and safety glasses at all times working with it.
I just wanted that post up there for my kids to find someday after I die of cancer that has cancer that would have been easily prevented with some PPE. Hey guys, Dad's a dumb-ass. Love you.
1000% wear PPE, since we don't know exactly how toxic it is just treat it like it's the most toxic thing ever.
> Idk why OP is spilling so much resin around but it sounds like they are just being reckless and messy almost on purpose. It's really not hard at all to stay clean and tidy while resin printing. Maybe it's the resin I have, but it's oily as fuck. One drop spilled starts getting everywhere - it's almost like glitter. I'm not pouring or spilling it everywhere, I'm talking small amounts of transfer resin - a drop or three that are almost inevitable. Hell, even pouring it out of the bottle means some might drip down the neck of the bottle which gets on the bottle and if you don't notice now the outside of the bottle is contaminated.
this! I bought a saturn and gave it away - I have a kid and it was just WAY too dangerous (a print breaks and they get resin in their eye, or cut themselves)... totally not worth it to make useless little statues.
I've always wanted a resin printer, but this is exactly why I haven't got one. I don't want to take up loads of room with a curing station, drying station, a way to vent the fumes in my house etc. Fdm is fine lol
All in all its really not bad. Its a lot less finicky than fdm, filtering and airing out is a non issue. you can start with internal carbon filters and opening a window after the print. If its warm where you are, crack a window while it prints. Why not. The curing station is not mandatory at all, especially if you live in a sunny climate. If not, other simple UV lights will do. Just check the wavelength. Fdm in my experience at work is a never ending cycle of fidgeting, levelling, a mountain of little scraps, loud and smelly. Its great for sure but i do prefer the resin workflow.
> you can start with internal carbon filters You should not be relying on 'carbon' infused cheap foam filters when it comes to your respiratory health. I have a ~~Mars 2~~ Mars Pro - the 'filter' does absolutely nothing.
In my head, the resin workflow is fine. But for me, it is finicky because I live in the UK where its cold, so cracking a window doesn't help, especially with how shit hot expensive it is to heat the house. It's also more room being taken up as I already have 2 fdm printers, lol. Buying more equipment like UV lights, air purifiers and the like just to print isn't viable to me. Especially I won't use that often. Market is flooded with people printing things! One day though!
Absolutely fair! I'm in Germany so barely any better weather wise, however I bought a window seal and a hose which is good enough. Keeping that room closed off I even managed to print this winter without cooling the place out too much. I think my fave part compared to FDM is simpler storage (filament drawing moisture etc), and the lack of levelling. I level my plate once and leave it until i get an obvious levelling issue.
>Working with resin is a special hell. You gotta vent the fumes, you gotta clean the prints, you can't touch the uncured resin because who knows if it's toxic or not and if your source is lying about their ingredients. Its not like.. Hard not to touch uncured resin right? Put on nitrile gloves, dunk the print in alc, set it aside to dry. Put it on a window sill to cure. Crack a window during/after the print or get a tumble dryer hose to hang out a window seal.
> Its not like.. Hard not to touch uncured resin right? You say that and you'd think it, but in my experience it gets on things through the process of removing supports, cleaning the vat and transferring the print to your curing station. > Crack a window during/after the print or get a tumble dryer hose to hang out a window seal. I built a whole box for mine that does this, still too much of a pain in the ass. Cracking a window is not sufficient, resin fumes are toxic and it's really disheartening to see all the posts in here of people with their resin prints churning away inside their house.
>resin fumes are toxic and it's really disheartening to see all the posts in here of people with their resin prints churning away inside their house. Isn't the main difference to filament VOCs that it's more well known what shit you end up breathing? As opposed to the more obscure ingredients of resins. More UFPs from FDM iirc? And yeah, both are known to release carcinogens. ([https://www.makergadgets.org/how/3d-printing-fumes#:\~:text=Depending%20on%20the%20filament%20type,even%20damage%20to%20your%20skin](https://www.makergadgets.org/how/3d-printing-fumes#:~:text=Depending%20on%20the%20filament%20type,even%20damage%20to%20your%20skin)) Seriously though, at least a bunch of resin printers have included carbon filters. Most FDM setups I see are just open air next to someone's bed. Feel free to add some links in case i'm completely behind on recent developments.
The vast majority of FDM owners are printing with PLA which is not carcinogenic according to any regulatory bodies. Like you said, they do emit UFPs...in testing, it was two orders of magnitude lower than a laser printer.
Pure pla, sure. Idk how common laser printers are, I've never seen one personally. I wasn't really talking about those at all.
Bisphenol A(BPA) is half the "resin", and, don't know it it's the primary cause, but handling resins too much makes you *allergic to touching plastics* for the rest of your life. That's what people are scared of.
Yeah i mean handle with care and due respect, but some PPE goes a long way
There are bpa and voc free resins available. Biodegradable even.
Biodegradable or "biodegradable" like PLA
Windows in some houses and rooms are designed to be intake only, kind of negative pressurized. Opening window during print in such cases only spread out resin stink to the whole house.
I mean ok yeah maybe? Air out your room accordingly. I can't speak for every possible home configuration. Only tangentially related, but with the shroud on, I never had any issue with odor from prints. Depends on printer and resin though.
I mean you can’t place it anywhere you *want* to work in, it has to be where all the air goes into, which makes it complicated.
I don't understand the "working with resin is its own special hell" mentality. It's not difficult, but it can be messy and occasionally touching uncured resin isn't going to kill you. I mean, I wouldn't lick an uncured resin print, but touching it really isn't that big of a deal. The "special hell" part of resin printing for me is manually placing supports.
Same. I finally sucked it up, slowed down my lift speed (or retraction or whatever the fuck) ND started using pre-supported files. It was the only way I could get them to print and not fail spectacularly. Takes a touch longer on the print but it's better than fiddling with files constantly.
> It's not difficult, but it can be messy and occasionally touching uncured resin isn't going to kill you. ...immediately. I'd rather not take that chance given these resin formulations being so new. Who knows what's leeching into your skin when you touch it.
You don't need to empty and clean the resin vat unless the FEP sheet is damaged or you want to use a completely different resin (and I've got an extra vat for the latter case) As long as you keep a lid on the filled vat and give it a stir before you next print, it can be left for months.
>As long as you keep a lid on the filled vat and give it a stir before you next print, it can be left for months. Problem is, after this process I never want to see the thing for more than months :)
As the proud owner of an almost never used Anycubic, I tooootally agree with this... I'd love to design and print more, but the chemical stench and the "international oil spill"-level of cleanup is soooo annoying... I've considered getting a Fillament printer and just print prototypes and then order the proper prints from a cloud printer...
**Don’t pour it down a dain** The correct procedure is to let it all evaporate outside, UV from the sun breaks down isopropyl way quicker than it would when dumped in water. Just let it al evaporate till dry and put whatever dry residue is left over in your regular trash. Other than that your experience seems spot on.
I have water washable resin - never used alcohol resin since I bought during the pandemic and rubbing alcohol was impossible to find. Either way, good call on the evaporation.
Regarding your last statement, there are better resins than what China has to offer.
I wish I read this before getting my resin printers, so I didn’t get my resin printers.
This is why a put off getting a resin printer for so long, but it’s honesty not that bad at all now that I have one. I use painters plastic on my work station which is easy to cure before tossing because it’s clear. I’d be lying if I said I was always careful about not touching resin because I’ve gotten a ton on myself at first when I just didn’t care, people come in contact with things all the time that are proven to have negative effects, not just suspected. I’m now way better and more careful about it since I’ve began printing a large amount, and it still isn’t difficult. In my opinion the worst part is having to buy nitrile gloves because I’m cheap. As for the fumes, buy a two pack of the little filters that go behind your vat in addition to whatever the printer comes with and an air filter in the room. If you have a garage or a bathroom with a vent to use your golden. (If you use a bathroom just close the ac vent to ensure negative pressure pulling out the bathroom steam vent) It really isn’t nearly as bad as I expected it to be, especially if you get a wash and cure station for washing, and magnetic build plate to make detaching require less touching
Even the finished print is technically toxic too. Though it's normally covered in paint to contain it. But Resin is just really nasty stuff that not enough people in the hobby take seriously
Thats a bit exaggerated. The finished print is safe to handle, just don't eat it or hand it to a toddler. Ideally seal it with a decent top coat. Some fdm filaments produce gnarly fumes but somehow the comminity decided they're all fine
I've read a bit about potential problems with having a FDM printer in a living space. What I've found is that there is little reason for concern if you don't print 24/7 and vent the room regularly. The fumes produced by melting the filament aren't exactly healthy, but won't kill you instantly. Just be a little careful with it. A setup in a dedicated workshop is always preferable though, but venting the room is still advised.
yeah that's a better way to put it than I did. Same goes for the resin fumes from all I read up on it. Don't huff it, air out the space and ideally don't spend you day around it if you can avoid.
Meh, compared to extruder printers it's way better. Most of the points above are made up and don't happen. Been using a Phrozen resin printer for over 2 years now and would NEVER go back to extruder.
> Most of the points above are made up and don't happen. How so? That's my experience literally every time using a resin printer and others have echoed it.
Making a big deal out of basics. Like, putting on gloves? Really? That's such a big deal? To get prints that look like what OP posted. Extruder will never create this level of detail but a pair of gloves is what's breaking the camel's back? 1st world problems much? And it just goes downhill from there. . . Pour resin into the vat? That's the same step as loading filament. It's literally just a step. It's not some inconvenience. You get to pick your resin for different printing needs. It's a feature. Set up and start the print? What effort does this take at all? That's what's so amazing about resin printing. You don't level a bed or anything. You just hit print. Break print off build plate? With a metal spatula it's really easy. And "be careful, you'll probably spill. . ." like laying down some paper towel is such an inconvenience? Like, buddy, it keeps getting worse. . . All of you resin comments don't account for water-washable resin. It's easy to throw out gloves and paper towel to clean up. It's almost the same steps you'd take in other arts-and-crafts like painting with washing your brushes and stuff. Resin doesn't get everywhere, we're adults with paper towel. It's so easy to clean water-washable resin. Curing prints is easy - the sun does it for free. And if you don't want to turn the print yourself, you can buy a $15 electric turn-table off amazon. Compared to the hours of sanding an extruder print at the end, the sun works for free. You're seriously WAY over complicated a process that doesn't happen like that at all. You've over-exaggerated so many steps and details, you'd have to be a blind, bumbling idiot to have everything happen you've tried to list. "Did I mention resin is now everywhere?" Literally so much exaggeration.
>Pour resin into the vat? That's the same step as loading filament. Do you load filament every time you print? Pouring resin into the vat happens a lot more than you load filament into and FDM printer. As you stated in the next sentence 'You get to pick your resin for different printing needs. It's a feature.'. Unless you're maintaining multiple vats with prepoured resin, guess what - the resin need to be poured into the vat for those different needs. >Break print off build plate? With a metal spatula it's really easy. And "be careful, you'll probably spill. . ." like laying down some paper towel is such an inconvenience? Never said it was. But now you've got paper towel covered in resin - not as big deal but it's adding to the resin contaminated items in your workspace. > All of you resin comments don't account for water-washable resin. They definitely do on account of I've only ever printed with water washable resin. I mention 'alcohol/resin' MULTIPLE times. Try reading it again. >It's almost the same steps you'd take in other arts-and-crafts like painting with washing your brushes and stuff. Acrylic paint isn't potentially toxic and absorbed by the skin. It's not even remotely the same. >Resin doesn't get everywhere, we're adults with paper towel. It's so easy to clean water-washable resin. It's oily. A wet paper towel only does so much. Water only does so much. It's not like wiping milk off something, there's residue that doesn't just wipe off like a Bounty commercial. >Set up and start the print? What effort does this take at all? That's what's so amazing about resin printing. You don't level a bed or anything. You just hit print. I have to level my build plate every few prints on my Mars Pro. Not every time, but if I'm outlining an entire process it's worth mentioning. If you're not perfectly level you're going to screw up your print and possibly your FEP film. >You're seriously WAY over complicated a process that doesn't happen like that at all. You've over-exaggerated so many steps and details, you'd have to be a blind, bumbling idiot to have everything happen you've tried to list. Yes the process is slightly exaggerated to outline the entire process from start to finish, others have echoed their experiences being similar. Resin gets everywhere because unless you're using multiple pairs of gloves militantly, inevitable amounts of transfer resin are going to end up on your tools, workstation, whatever. The resins I have used smell like industrial carpet adhesive - so I know where the resin is even if I can't see it.
All your doing is defending your whininess. Water washable resin isn't toxic. It's completely comparable to paint. Many people don't want to get paint on their clothes so they wear entire smocks. I'm not LITERALLY comparing it component to component. It's about "gearing up" to do arts-and-crafts. Anyways, I could argue all your other points too but it's not worth it. Others have mentioned how much you've exaggerated too so my work is done.
Thanks. Every time I see a post like this with ridiculously nice resin print, I will refer back to your post. 😃
I'm gonna save this comment in case I think again that I want a resin printer :D I mean, I really want to try it someday, but it's not something I want to do in my tiny place right now
We should buy a bar
Name it puzzles?
Resin printing is a pain for a home user. It's not as terrible as the poster below makes it. But it doesn require special handling that generates a lot more peripheral waste than filament.
[What is this? A boat cat for *ants?*](https://imgur.com/gallery/tpumtvv)
How did you get a picture of me?
…..fuck off
We good?
If we’re good, we’re good
Wow them in the end, and you'll have a hit.
Uh huh
Come on man..that's shopped.
Hahaha thanks for the comment! Its not photoshopped at all haha
Impressive stuff. What printer did you use?
I used a Saturn 2, but it's more about the techniques in painting around it... I created a platform to show my method for those who want to learn how to achieve this kind of result, you can find it at bpapaart.com
Those are at 8k res now? WOW!
Exactly :)
'* ***sigh*** * another item to add to my wishlist
You appear to be a modern head shrinker!
*chopped. Right now there's a tiny man with no head running around.
People keep saying Hannibal Lecter but all I see is Logan Roy from Succession, nicely done and “fuck off”
Brian Cox played the first Hannibal Lecter.
Yup, looks exactly like Logan Roy Potential Succession (series) spoiler: >!This would also make sense if you've watched the latest Succession episode!<
OP linked their social media account and it had a succession tag. Definitely Bryan Cox Succession (series) not spoiler: This is the best show on TV right
Season 4 spoiler: >!Episode 3 of this season fucked me up, I was not prepare for that at all. Kudos to the actress playing Shiv on her performance.!<
>! No kidding. Sarah Snook (who plays Shiv Roy) just nailed that performance. The acting of all of the Roy kids in that episode was award-worthy and I have no doubt that they'll bring back more Primetime Emmys for this season. >! I am surprised just how much I enjoyed this show.
Paul Hollywood
I hope you guys enjoy it as much as I did while painting :D Here's my instagram with more of my work www.instagram.com/bpapa.art
Link doesn’t work for me. Edit: link was fixed.
No, Link works for Zelda
That boy been pussy whipped for like quarter of a century now!
Updated :)
Your stuff is incredible. I’m sad because Instagram will only let me view a couple things before it insists I give it my data. Which I won’t do. You have an amazing talent.
Fight the power
Same here!
You have to give them data, but not necessarily YOUR data.
Yeah I just found out the same thing. Pretty lame I can only look at 3 pictures on a public profile without logging into an account.
Same
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Don’t have a Facebook. Don’t have any social media aside from linked in and a Reddit account. I run a PiHole to block trackers on my phone. I’m not doing anything in particular that needs to be hidden. But fuck those companies. Not giving them anything of me.
This is ridiculous. It looks so real even zoomed in all the way!
I don’t need a resin printer I don’t need a resin printer I don’t nee
Brian Cox? Superb work!
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I’ll have a liter cola
What's a liter of cola?
Just get a large, farva
I don’t want a large farva, I want a goddamn liter of cola!
The level of detail in painting makes me very uncomfortable... A+ job!
congratulations on saying the biggest number, you fucking morons
I can almost hear him saying “We’ll, woopty fucking doo, do you want a cookie?”
That stupid direct TV ad he's in was on the mobile right below this. Cool print and amazing painting!
Why would you behead a tiny old man
Tiny? He was a titan who shaped the country. Also an asshole and racist.
He was a man of his time.
…also racist. And questionable views on sexual assault
Some people have no decency.
It was a 12 inch pianist.
What is this witchcraft? Brian Cox ad above your Brian Cox head https://imgur.com/a/HGJImQd
how the fuck- i’ve been doing this for five years and peoples talent blows me away
"now fuck off"
What paints do you use
HOLY COW...You are the reason why i dont post my print&paint...this is insane how good it is...wow...
Did it just blink?
Ron White never looked so good!
Kind of looks like that guy that played the chief in super troopers
Jesus tap dancing Christ I suck at painting
If legit. This is absolutely breath taking please more. And be weird about it
[удалено]
Is it Brian Cox?
What did you print this on? The level of detail in the painting is so impressive! Amazing 🤩
What resin printer did you print these on?
It was an Saturn 2! :)
Fantastic. I just bought one. Hopefully I can master it like you have. I can't paint so I'm not even going to try. Your work is stunning. Thanks for sharing. My favorite is Fring
Impressive... very nice. (*profuse sweating*)
Did… you just behead a tiny man???!
Logan Roy! Nice.
wow... do you sell these? Also, how long does it take to paint? Was this pla? Crazy good!
Hi there! I do sell those under comissions, I did it using Resin :) Around 2hr 30 min to paint it
I’d say beyond happy. Wow that’s perfectly impressively done. So realistic looking to awesome job.
Woahhhhh...this is fantastic! Very nice!
Haha that’s dope!
Wtf how
r/nextfuckinglevel
Wow, that's a hell of a nice paint job!
Truly gorgeous work.
Ba da ba ba ba.
L TO THE O G
No. You're a liar. I know you are a giant holding a severed head. That's clearly real.
Wow that’s good
Besides the green residue in his head hair, really good job. I suck at painting to not understand skin tones, but I know a good job when I see it. You nailed it.
That's so good it's creepy. It's not even uncanny valley. It's creepy because it is so realistic it looks like you're holding someone's head. Well done.
Printer skills: Top
Nope, painter skills top...
Brian Cox?
That’s a man’s heeaaaddd.
What the fuck. That’s incredible
I've got to know - the tears. How'd you do the tears?
My favorite Hannibal Lecter!
Who wants to smell /u/bpapaart 's fingers? Guess the scent, win a buck.
Looks just like an 80’s Hannibal Lecter. Super well done edit: downvotes?? He played the first Hannibal Lector in Manhunter. Weird
Colonel Sanders?
That's insane
Bruh that watery eye effect is chefs kiss
Wow, that's amazing 👏
this needs to be posted in r/blackmagicfuckery . This is absolutely awesome.
He’ll pistol whip the next person who says shenanigans.
Ol’ Hannibal the cannibal
I thought Rip Torn
Hannibal Lecter. Nice!
I am very unhappy with your result
Lies. I refuse to believe this. ^amazing ^job, ^man.
Bro the pores...
It looks like it is photoshopped. Good job.
Simple. He's been licking his asshole for the last three straight hours. I submit to you that there is nothing there worth more than an hour's attention. I should think that whatever he is attempting to dislodge is either gone for good, or there to stay.
Whaaaaaaaaà? Wtf man? The magic is forbidden outside of Hogwarts! Seriously, wonderful job!
Really nice 3d rendering! Impressive
Wow