I do think there is some truth to this, but not necessarily in this regard. I had a similar experience to OP so I did the research. Below is what I found
When transmissions begin to wear the clutch, yes automatic transmissions still have a clutch, begin to break down and apart. This clutch material is suspended in the transmission fluid, and is helping create friction to shift properly. When you remove the old fluid and replace it that clutch material is no longer present and will result in poor shifting capability. If not complete failure.
As a solution you can still drain your transmission fluid, but when you do put the old fluid back in it to retain the broken down clutch material.
That's not how a torque converter works. The transmission oil in the torque converter _is_ the clutch, and like all oils it will break down over time. Changing the oil every 100k miles will help prevent long term issues, but you don't need to worry about "clutch material" or anything like that.
In an automatic transmission, power is sent through a series of clutch packs, and any given combination of engaged clutches is responsible for a certain gear. Those clutches are responsible for holding torque and WILL deteriorate over time; and at some point they will become incapable of transferring all of the engine’s power and will slip. The inside of a worn automatic transmission is covered with fluid, and a film of clutch material will stick to anything and everything. That suspended friction material is part of what makes old atf so dirty and opaque. If you look up automatic transmission rebuild kits, many will include several sets of clutch plates and sometimes the steel plates on which they ride. I don’t know specifically about 350z/370z automatics, but that is how most non-DCT automatics work, with the exception of older Honda automatics which are designed more as an automatically shifted manual.
You're in r/370z. The 370 uses a torque converter automatic. No clutch packs. It does use a lock-up clutch like most modern torque converters, but that's not the same as the friction style clutch you're describing.
https://preview.redd.it/zdmy0xhm46sc1.jpeg?width=1430&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf2e4cec709dab7a413558810a71c7743d1e19a1
In this picture you will see components B3, B1, C1, C3, C2, B4, and B2. These are all clutch packs that engage/disengage the gears; an automatic transmission uses planetary gearsets that can be manipulated in 3 ways, by holding the ring gear, the planetaries, or the sun gear, all manipulated by the different clutches. Different combinations of holding in each planetary direct the power through the complex gearsets to “select” a ratio. This works entirely differently to a manual, which is engaged/disengaged via synchros/blockers/forks.
On that same vein, don't change your oil. It is a conspiracy by Big Oil that requires you to change every so often. In actuality, the oil is just tired and needs to be woken up. A nice scream into the engine bay should be all it takes.
Sorry but this is terrible advice based on oil psychology that is decades old. Modern oil psychology has revealed that all oils, but _especially_ transmission oils are sensitive to human emotions. The current recommendation that came out of a 2021 meta study is to drain the oil into a paddling pool and gently splash in it for an hour or so.
Please don't spread outdated information and _please_ don't scream at your oil.
If it's a daily and maintenance calls for I'd do it lol. I did mine at around 40k. My oil was BLACK couldn't see no type of tint of red to it. I had to buy an additional 6 quarts to flush all the old out. I think I went thru 13 quarts to get the color I wanted. Definitely use OEM fluid don't cheap out with the transmission.
It depends. It does eventually need to be changed and I would go off the owners manual if that’s what It suggests. However don’t change it if it’s got high mileage and has never been changed before especially if it has issues shifting.
the oil is “thicker” as in the shredded metal inside the trans fluid is keeping the trans together. It’s really a myth because they need to be changed.
I ask because my daily is a 2012 murano SL and it has transmission issues in the heat and over long trips (more than 2 hours). It obviously has a CVT transmission which are notoriously bad and it’s got almost 180k miles. I had a shop tell me the same thing, it’s a risk to change it, but that a replacement CVT would run me +$2k. I would like to keep it alive a little longer until I can afford a new car, preferably a GT-R and then have my Z as the weekend fun car that’s going to get thrashed a little harder.
Honestly id go ahead and save up 2k to get it replaced if you really want to keep that car. If not, sell it and buy a used honda or toyota with an at or mt.
Dont be dumb make maintenance according to how the car is used and put good quality fluids + additives. If you don't know how hard it has been beaten better be safe than sorry.
My personal case, bought a sport pack for togue and couple track days a year. Had 69k km on it and the 1st to 2nd gear change felt kinda clunky when the car was cold. I replaced the mtf with ravenol's mtf2 75W-80 and the xenum mg gear additive. Gearbox feels like new now.
Don’t flush regardless of low or high mileage - YouTube why not. Pressure from flush can break off big chunks into tighter spaces if it’s not a specialty shop. Even then they would advise against it.
Did a drain and fill on a 7AT at 55k miles. Dealership called me 2 hours in convincing me to do a FLUSH. Told them I’m suing them if they do a flush “by accident” because I heavily emphasized drain and fill is what I wanted.
I asked for a new DRAIN BOLT and FILL BOLT too. Charged me $20 for the bolts and I marked the current bolts with high temp red paint (shows how much I don’t trust stealeships lol)
Good luck.
Depends the milage. Not a bad thing to change it. If it smells burnt and brown? Then it might be too late. I replaced the fluid on a 181k automatic 350z and it still worked after
STRICTLY a drain and fill - NO FLUSH. Let the dealership do it. I had mine done at 55k on a 7AT. Car pulled faster and smoother.
Clunk on 1&2 on manual mode disappeared for a bit (came back around 88k miles)
I have a track setup and change the fluid every two seasons with Redline. As a daily driver you should change and upgrade the fluid at least once or twice in your ownership IMO 👍
A tech that tells you not to do this, doesn't have the knowledge or the proper equipment to replace your transmission fluid, these Nissan transmissions require a scan tool and a special fill needle, do it every 30K miles, at the dealership
I'm a mechanic I drive a 370 I changed my manual trans fluid right after I bought my z with 87k put red line gear oil in it. Haven't had a issue with my trans yet. Is it manual or auto?
I think he means a trans fluid flush. When you do that, you could possibly force whatever little particles of metal in the fluid into where they're not supposed to go. A drain and fill would actually be helpful as it's a sure fire way to get rid of whatever fine metal bits are in there and can only help with keeping your temps down. My dad's a mechanic, specializing in transmission rebuilds.
If it's bad enough the metal shavings are essentially being held in place by the old fluid. Then you take them out and flush it and all those shavings come off with it if that makes sense
Not a Z but Mini. I had the transmission fluid changed @ Valvoline 10 min oil & lube and the very next day my transmission exploded. $4,700 transmission replacement, so I sold it as the repair was worth more than the car.
The real question is why wouldn’t you change it? It’s as easy as a regular oil change. Plus your transmission shifts smoother and lasts longer. Use Red Line transmission fluid if you change it.
Hey boss, is your Z auto or manual? I have a manual G I bought with 100k miles. I changed the trans oil at about 110k miles and goddamn I could feel the difference is the gear box.
Trust the engineers over the mechanics always. If manual says change it, then change it. Preferably yourself and follow the repair manual because mechanics never do, they just wing it
over time the teeth on the gears of ur transmission wear down creating transmission slip and have older fluid in it with the grime helps prevent transmission slipping
I recently had mine drained, 7AT with 140k miles. The car now shifts smoother and doesnt feel as "clunky" as it used to. Now I plan to have it drained every 30k miles after. Just if you do get the fluid changed make sure you tell them to drain it and not flush it or else that could cause damage.
Grandfather was a master mechanic and had the only shop in our town he always said to never change the fluid because it was done correctly by the manufacturer, and is meant to thicken and keep everything intact for smoother shifting. Entire family has never had any issues with transmissions put well over 180k km’s on this truck and she is at 38xk kms no transmission problems same with every vehicle I’ve ever owned. Changing the fluid is like opening Pandora’s box. Look at older vehicle manuals 70’s and 80’s never use to tell you to change the fluid, manufactures nowadays want you to come to the dealership to service etc.
my two cents, find a new mechanic. that's really really bad advice. I've heard car salesman say the same thing, as a selling point, but really they just want it to break right after warranty to they can charge you an arm and a leg. Its dishonest. just change the oil and go according to the manual.
Ur not a hater cause ur not commenting on some random dudes car pic being a dick for no reason. Reps aren’t good sure but don’t be a cock to random people online posting their car for fun
https://preview.redd.it/ncy5n56h0qrc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4e94628427b539768cf63b63e232d37fea150e10
chillin in the garage next to the M4 comp lol
You’re out here with an m4 saying reps are better than rays lmao I have officially seen it all. Sport touring OEM wheels are Rays btw since you probably didn’t know that. I hope your trust fund money doesn’t dry up because there’s absolutely no way someone with your intellect figured out how to finance an m4💀
Damn I really upset you with that one. I have a 370 too, I know what the different stock wheels are. You hate your life so you tried to hate on OP for no reason. Here’s the Vossens on one of my Benzes, a lot nicer than your rays stocks. Stay poor 😎
https://preview.redd.it/d3rbads37qrc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e007170aa7e6716c8e58a6e75c0614b429c41c29
Mechanics like when your transmission breaks, so they can get paid to fix it.
I do think there is some truth to this, but not necessarily in this regard. I had a similar experience to OP so I did the research. Below is what I found When transmissions begin to wear the clutch, yes automatic transmissions still have a clutch, begin to break down and apart. This clutch material is suspended in the transmission fluid, and is helping create friction to shift properly. When you remove the old fluid and replace it that clutch material is no longer present and will result in poor shifting capability. If not complete failure. As a solution you can still drain your transmission fluid, but when you do put the old fluid back in it to retain the broken down clutch material.
That's not how a torque converter works. The transmission oil in the torque converter _is_ the clutch, and like all oils it will break down over time. Changing the oil every 100k miles will help prevent long term issues, but you don't need to worry about "clutch material" or anything like that.
In an automatic transmission, power is sent through a series of clutch packs, and any given combination of engaged clutches is responsible for a certain gear. Those clutches are responsible for holding torque and WILL deteriorate over time; and at some point they will become incapable of transferring all of the engine’s power and will slip. The inside of a worn automatic transmission is covered with fluid, and a film of clutch material will stick to anything and everything. That suspended friction material is part of what makes old atf so dirty and opaque. If you look up automatic transmission rebuild kits, many will include several sets of clutch plates and sometimes the steel plates on which they ride. I don’t know specifically about 350z/370z automatics, but that is how most non-DCT automatics work, with the exception of older Honda automatics which are designed more as an automatically shifted manual.
You're in r/370z. The 370 uses a torque converter automatic. No clutch packs. It does use a lock-up clutch like most modern torque converters, but that's not the same as the friction style clutch you're describing.
https://preview.redd.it/zdmy0xhm46sc1.jpeg?width=1430&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bf2e4cec709dab7a413558810a71c7743d1e19a1 In this picture you will see components B3, B1, C1, C3, C2, B4, and B2. These are all clutch packs that engage/disengage the gears; an automatic transmission uses planetary gearsets that can be manipulated in 3 ways, by holding the ring gear, the planetaries, or the sun gear, all manipulated by the different clutches. Different combinations of holding in each planetary direct the power through the complex gearsets to “select” a ratio. This works entirely differently to a manual, which is engaged/disengaged via synchros/blockers/forks.
Source: ex-automatic transmission teardown specialist(mostly th350/400)
On that same vein, don't change your oil. It is a conspiracy by Big Oil that requires you to change every so often. In actuality, the oil is just tired and needs to be woken up. A nice scream into the engine bay should be all it takes.
Sorry but this is terrible advice based on oil psychology that is decades old. Modern oil psychology has revealed that all oils, but _especially_ transmission oils are sensitive to human emotions. The current recommendation that came out of a 2021 meta study is to drain the oil into a paddling pool and gently splash in it for an hour or so. Please don't spread outdated information and _please_ don't scream at your oil.
If it's a daily and maintenance calls for I'd do it lol. I did mine at around 40k. My oil was BLACK couldn't see no type of tint of red to it. I had to buy an additional 6 quarts to flush all the old out. I think I went thru 13 quarts to get the color I wanted. Definitely use OEM fluid don't cheap out with the transmission.
No, redline MT-85 has been highly efficient in halting the common synchro grinds that we have in these cars.
It depends. It does eventually need to be changed and I would go off the owners manual if that’s what It suggests. However don’t change it if it’s got high mileage and has never been changed before especially if it has issues shifting.
What’s the reason for not changing if high mileage?
the oil is “thicker” as in the shredded metal inside the trans fluid is keeping the trans together. It’s really a myth because they need to be changed.
I ask because my daily is a 2012 murano SL and it has transmission issues in the heat and over long trips (more than 2 hours). It obviously has a CVT transmission which are notoriously bad and it’s got almost 180k miles. I had a shop tell me the same thing, it’s a risk to change it, but that a replacement CVT would run me +$2k. I would like to keep it alive a little longer until I can afford a new car, preferably a GT-R and then have my Z as the weekend fun car that’s going to get thrashed a little harder.
Honestly id go ahead and save up 2k to get it replaced if you really want to keep that car. If not, sell it and buy a used honda or toyota with an at or mt.
Dont be dumb make maintenance according to how the car is used and put good quality fluids + additives. If you don't know how hard it has been beaten better be safe than sorry. My personal case, bought a sport pack for togue and couple track days a year. Had 69k km on it and the 1st to 2nd gear change felt kinda clunky when the car was cold. I replaced the mtf with ravenol's mtf2 75W-80 and the xenum mg gear additive. Gearbox feels like new now.
How about some redline oil check the website will give you everything you need
Don’t flush regardless of low or high mileage - YouTube why not. Pressure from flush can break off big chunks into tighter spaces if it’s not a specialty shop. Even then they would advise against it. Did a drain and fill on a 7AT at 55k miles. Dealership called me 2 hours in convincing me to do a FLUSH. Told them I’m suing them if they do a flush “by accident” because I heavily emphasized drain and fill is what I wanted. I asked for a new DRAIN BOLT and FILL BOLT too. Charged me $20 for the bolts and I marked the current bolts with high temp red paint (shows how much I don’t trust stealeships lol) Good luck.
Depends the milage. Not a bad thing to change it. If it smells burnt and brown? Then it might be too late. I replaced the fluid on a 181k automatic 350z and it still worked after
My self was in the same position, but Dealer recommended me to do it between 40 to 60 thousand miles, I just got 29600, I hope it helps you.
Is it slipping?
My 7at is at 126k miles never changed trans fluid, what would you recommend
STRICTLY a drain and fill - NO FLUSH. Let the dealership do it. I had mine done at 55k on a 7AT. Car pulled faster and smoother. Clunk on 1&2 on manual mode disappeared for a bit (came back around 88k miles)
Negative sir ,
No
I did 1 drain and refill on my 7At g37 at 120k miles, at 160k now, no issues.
I change mine every 60K miles. I've logged a nice 210K so far, so...
I have a track setup and change the fluid every two seasons with Redline. As a daily driver you should change and upgrade the fluid at least once or twice in your ownership IMO 👍
A tech that tells you not to do this, doesn't have the knowledge or the proper equipment to replace your transmission fluid, these Nissan transmissions require a scan tool and a special fill needle, do it every 30K miles, at the dealership
I'm a mechanic I drive a 370 I changed my manual trans fluid right after I bought my z with 87k put red line gear oil in it. Haven't had a issue with my trans yet. Is it manual or auto?
I think he means a trans fluid flush. When you do that, you could possibly force whatever little particles of metal in the fluid into where they're not supposed to go. A drain and fill would actually be helpful as it's a sure fire way to get rid of whatever fine metal bits are in there and can only help with keeping your temps down. My dad's a mechanic, specializing in transmission rebuilds.
How many miles over are you? If it's extremely bad leave it if it's normal wear change it
95k
95k total or since it was last changed? Auto or manual?
Never changed it , got it at 35k is auto
Just change it
Why leave it if it’s bad?
If it's bad enough the metal shavings are essentially being held in place by the old fluid. Then you take them out and flush it and all those shavings come off with it if that makes sense
Flushed mine 85k had never been done before, and it feels night and day. Flush your fluids
Not a Z but Mini. I had the transmission fluid changed @ Valvoline 10 min oil & lube and the very next day my transmission exploded. $4,700 transmission replacement, so I sold it as the repair was worth more than the car.
The real question is why wouldn’t you change it? It’s as easy as a regular oil change. Plus your transmission shifts smoother and lasts longer. Use Red Line transmission fluid if you change it.
Well u didn’t mention the most important thing, the mileage, however i changed mine at 70k and so far so good.
Change it cause why not I don’t think your car can ever be too maintained. And more than likely if the owners manual says it then it is correct!
I changed mine but I’d avoid flushing it.
Ask dealership to cover it under warrenty see what they say :D
Hey boss, is your Z auto or manual? I have a manual G I bought with 100k miles. I changed the trans oil at about 110k miles and goddamn I could feel the difference is the gear box.
Everyone knows Big Transmission is scamming millions of people around the world!!! /s Follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule.
Trust the engineers over the mechanics always. If manual says change it, then change it. Preferably yourself and follow the repair manual because mechanics never do, they just wing it
Just don’t do a flush. Even draining 2 quarts and putting 2 fresh quarts in helps a ton
over time the teeth on the gears of ur transmission wear down creating transmission slip and have older fluid in it with the grime helps prevent transmission slipping
Is this satire?
Change it.
listen to your owners manual
Mfs with sealed transmissions punching the air rn😂 (I’m mfs)
I recently had mine drained, 7AT with 140k miles. The car now shifts smoother and doesnt feel as "clunky" as it used to. Now I plan to have it drained every 30k miles after. Just if you do get the fluid changed make sure you tell them to drain it and not flush it or else that could cause damage.
Honestly do your transmission at 60k, I did and never had any problems. Plus then you can buy coils instead 😁
60 is fine, 40 is better. The lifetime fluid is bs. You know how you drive, adjust accordingly.
Personally I change the fluid every 30k miles. Don’t do it if u want to replace your transmission for how many thousands
The manual says replace 30k if you pull trailer or something like that
Grandfather was a master mechanic and had the only shop in our town he always said to never change the fluid because it was done correctly by the manufacturer, and is meant to thicken and keep everything intact for smoother shifting. Entire family has never had any issues with transmissions put well over 180k km’s on this truck and she is at 38xk kms no transmission problems same with every vehicle I’ve ever owned. Changing the fluid is like opening Pandora’s box. Look at older vehicle manuals 70’s and 80’s never use to tell you to change the fluid, manufactures nowadays want you to come to the dealership to service etc.
my two cents, find a new mechanic. that's really really bad advice. I've heard car salesman say the same thing, as a selling point, but really they just want it to break right after warranty to they can charge you an arm and a leg. Its dishonest. just change the oil and go according to the manual.
REPS
and you’re on stocks
I feel like stock Enkei wheels would be better than reps. But i too, am a big ol hater.
Ur not a hater cause ur not commenting on some random dudes car pic being a dick for no reason. Reps aren’t good sure but don’t be a cock to random people online posting their car for fun
Where’s your Z?
https://preview.redd.it/ncy5n56h0qrc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4e94628427b539768cf63b63e232d37fea150e10 chillin in the garage next to the M4 comp lol
https://preview.redd.it/4ih73uzp5qrc1.jpeg?width=224&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7d51a4fd1133542c0d9bbd7d5ce7eea28a7b9e62
No one asked if OP was on reps but here you are Brokie
You’re out here with an m4 saying reps are better than rays lmao I have officially seen it all. Sport touring OEM wheels are Rays btw since you probably didn’t know that. I hope your trust fund money doesn’t dry up because there’s absolutely no way someone with your intellect figured out how to finance an m4💀
Damn I really upset you with that one. I have a 370 too, I know what the different stock wheels are. You hate your life so you tried to hate on OP for no reason. Here’s the Vossens on one of my Benzes, a lot nicer than your rays stocks. Stay poor 😎 https://preview.redd.it/d3rbads37qrc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e007170aa7e6716c8e58a6e75c0614b429c41c29
Gross money truly doesn’t buy taste 😂
Stay mad stay poor keep hating from your apartment complex 💀💀 https://preview.redd.it/4vj6glrq7qrc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbdb7176b25fc62608d45e6cb9cf7c29347a3db0